Ball Joint Replacement Questions

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Old 06-28-2011, 04:27 PM
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Question Ball Joint Replacement Questions

Hey All,

I spent a while reading through the forms to find the procedure to change out the front lower ball joints. I have a squeaking noise coming from the front, drivers side over every single bump (even very small bumps). I cannot replicate the noise pushing on the front passenger side of the car, but I still need to get in there to see if I have any play at the ball joint.

In any case, I feel that this would be the cheapest fix to start with to try and get rid of the damn squeaking.

My question is, what is the best way to remove and replace these? I couldn't find a straight answer on the forums, nor did the service manual help because it just talks about the removal of the ball joint and nothing about reinstallation. Can you remove and replace them without having to take apart the whole hub assembly using a ball joint separator? Or do I need to take the knuckle off to get the new ones pressed in by a shop? Also, my TL was primarily a northern car...has anyone had a lot of trouble removing these on a northern car?

Mind you my TL has 191k on it, so I think its time to replace them anyway.

Thanks in advance!
Old 06-28-2011, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jayn1321
Mind you my TL has 191k on it, so I think its time to replace them anyway.
If your TL has 191K, there may be multiple issues that are going on to cause the squeaking. In addition to the ball joint, check the sway bar endlinks & bushings, lower control arm bushings (inner & outer) as well. With that many miles, there is a good chance that those parts may need attention, if they have not yet received any.

Originally Posted by jayn1321
My question is, what is the best way to remove and replace these? Can you remove and replace them without having to take apart the whole hub assembly using a ball joint separator? Or do I need to take the knuckle off to get the new ones pressed in by a shop? Also, my TL was primarily a northern car...has anyone had a lot of trouble removing these on a northern car?
There is an Acura Service Bulletin 06-015; dated 21 June 06 for ALL 99-03 3.2 TL's and 01-03 3.2 CL's:

Replaceable Ball Joints
BACKGROUND
A replaceable ball joint is now available that allows you
to replace only the ball joint and not the entire knuckle
assembly. This part is for one-time replacements only.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the base of the existing ball joint before
beginning repair work. If the ball joint is not stamped
with the letter “B”, then you can replace only the ball
joint. If the letter “B” is stamped on the base, disregard
this service bulletin and replace the entire knuckle
assembly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Ball Joint: P/N 06523-S84-405
Spindle Nut: P/N 90305-SD4-003
Cotter Pin: P/N 94201-30220

In my case (CL-S6), I had the "B" and replaced the whole knuckle, quick and simple but expensive. If you don't have the "B" then the BJ part # above or any other for your car can be used. It's possible to replace them on the car; however, one has to have the right tools. If you can remove the knuckle and have a machine shop readily available in your area, it may be better to get them pressed out/in, especially if the car is a northern car.

If you have the "B" and replace them anyway instead of getting the knuckle, don't forget to update this thread with the outcome.

Good Luck!

Last edited by zeta; 06-28-2011 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
If your TL has 191K, there may be multiple issues that are going on to cause the squeaking. In addition to the ball joint, check the sway bar endlinks & bushings, lower control arm bushings (inner & outer) as well.
Sway bar bushing & endlinks - changed
Struts - changed
LCA bushings outer - changed (need to check inner, but were good last time i looked)

I still need to check for any play as well, but just haven't had the time.

Ugh, I hope I don't have the B...the knuckle is indeed expensive. If don't have the "B" and am able to change out the ball joints, do you know of any special tools I will need other than the puller? I'd like to see what the replacement will entail before I start pulling stuff apart and possibly not be able to get it back together...haha

Thanks!
Old 06-29-2011, 09:37 PM
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When I replaced mine I pulled the knuckle out and used a socket big enough to go around the boot. A couple of good whacks later and they were out. Same thing for install I used a socket big enough to go around the outside edge. I replaced mine with Moog parts from AutoZone. Moogs are servicable whereas the OE's aren't.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:18 PM
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is it doable without removing the knuckle? If not, how difficult would you say removing the knuckle is? I just want to plan time-wise...

Thanks!
Old 06-30-2011, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jayn1321
If don't have the "B" and am able to change out the ball joints, do you know of any special tools I will need other than the puller? I'd like to see what the replacement will entail before I start pulling stuff apart and possibly not be able to get it back together...haha

Thanks!
If you want to do the repair with the knuckle on the car, I believe Autozone rents the BJ tool set with the Honda adapters, at least in my area. Do a google search on 'Honda ball joint tools' you will find something. As mentioned above, from what I have read on here, Moog ball joints are acceptable aftermarket replacements.
Old 06-30-2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
When I replaced mine I pulled the knuckle out and used a socket big enough to go around the boot. A couple of good whacks later and they were out. Same thing for install I used a socket big enough to go around the outside edge. I replaced mine with Moog parts from AutoZone. Moogs are servicable whereas the OE's aren't.
you don't need to use a socket to remove the ball joint just smack it with a BAH, your replacing it so it doesn't matter if you hit the stud or not.

Not sure what you mean by servicable but they are not now they will have a zirk fitting unlike the factory so you can grease them but if they are designed with out one then they are of a sealed designed and don't require additional grease.
Old 06-30-2011, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jayn1321
is it doable without removing the knuckle? If not, how difficult would you say removing the knuckle is? I just want to plan time-wise...

Thanks!
Depending on experience and first time cracking stuff loose id say plan an hour each side. If you can find that ball joint tool that would save time and youd still be able to do it on the car.

I can get down to the knuckle in under ten minutes and I know im not one of the good ones!
Old 06-30-2011, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rcb2000
you don't need to use a socket to remove the ball joint just smack it with a BAH, your replacing it so it doesn't matter if you hit the stud or not.

Not sure what you mean by servicable but they are not now they will have a zirk fitting unlike the factory so you can grease them but if they are designed with out one then they are of a sealed designed and don't require additional grease.
Come to think of it youre right. The endlinks have that fitting but i dont think the bj's do. All cleared up.
Old 06-30-2011, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
Depending on experience and first time cracking stuff loose id say plan an hour each side. If you can find that ball joint tool that would save time and youd still be able to do it on the car.
!
hhhmmmm SORRY the ball joint press is a must to install the ball joint otherwise your just asking for trouble doing it on the car, now if you remove the lower control arm then you can use a press and some sockets but that is way too much work.
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