Ronmarr1

Forum,

On my 2000 TL - AC/Heater will not blow although control panel lights up and no self diagnostic codes appear- Cannot hear compressor click on -
replaced under hood blower motor relay, switched 40a fuses for heater motor/electric seats - checked fuse on transistor/heatsink on floor under glove box - Connector at blower motor and/or motor may be fried (per tsb) - cannot get it out of socket - 12v appears at back of connector going into blower motor.

I guess I need to know how to take out the blower motor - if someone could provide a how to and/or any other ideas about this mess I would be greatly appreciative -

Couldn't find any how to articles specific to the motor but some good ones on how to test- Never had the AC serviced since new but it worked fine yesterday & so did heater.

Of course - it had to happen just as we are heating up here :-(

Help!! Please!!

01tl4tl

sounds like bad power connection -right under the front edge of the glovebox

That one self destructs- burns inside or loose wire or crud growth,,,
acura has a kit with new connectors (~$10-15) and longer wires
easy diy to splice in
sometimes it damages the blower motor relay- located on mounting panel for blower

to access see diy: cabin air filter
remove glovebox, there is the slide out tray with the 2 cabin filters side by side
(they come 2 in the box)
there is the blower motor and its resistor (may be on back of plate)--
remove heat cover and inspect
obvious when burnt

but start with that connector under glove box
take it apart- ck wires

01tl4tl

`Connector at blower motor and/or motor may be fried (per tsb) - cannot get it out of socket - 12v appears at back of connector going into blower motor.`

`may be fried`--same part I was talking about,,,,= solution!

TSB are technical service bulletins acura issues to its own tech system and sells to other places
Its to help techs fix odd problems quickly, instead of chasing relays and fuses for example

Ronmarr1

"sometimes it damages the blower motor relay- located on mounting panel for blower"
Is there a photo of this?
Is the blower motor relay replaceable?

Anyway - I have the glove box out and I just can't get the darn plug going to the motor off as it is frozen on and now it is probably broken - I really need to figure out how to get the motor out so I can apply 12v to it by itself in order to see if it is fried too.

Would this situation also cause the compressor to not work properly? - I cannot hear it click on/off when I hit the "On" button

Thanks again!

victus1

Removal is on page 21-65 of Service Manual. Do a search here on service manual. I have posted a link to download it.

01tl4tl

no blower motor means no ac operation,,tied together

the plug under dash edge-its ok or ?
the plug you are working with,,is at the blower?

if that main conection is bad you wont get 12v at motor

resistor can be replaced easily,,has finned heat shield cover over it

01tl4tl

there are plenty of pics on here of the blower and resistor,,try a search if not in the diy

Ronmarr1

@01tl4tl - The plug at the blower motor (2 wires) is frozen in the socket
and will not come out - I broke the little tab off while trying so will probably have to pull the motor. I measured the voltage where the two wires go into
the connector and I get 12v with the HVAC system turned on, 0 volts w/
HVAC turned off. I already pulled the transistor w/heatsink and checked the fuse and it appears to be ok w/ 0 ohms across the fuse terminals. I also checked the three large terminal points on the circuit board and they "appear" to be ok per a previous "how to" I saw on the board.

On it goes "sigh"

Ronmarr1

@victus1 - thanks for the info - I will check for the service manual.

Ronmarr1

@victus1 - I have been looking for a link to the service manual you mentioned
but am unable to find the link you mentioned.

Would you be kind enough to re-post the link?

Thank you very much.

victus1

Here you go:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/71229813/!!!...E%20MANUAL.pdf

Right-click the link, then "save link as" to download

Ronmarr1

@ victus1 - Thanks very much! I'll check it out and get back to you folks.

Luke7

I bought the replacement wire/sub harness yesterday. $10 bucks at the Acura Garage here. Here's the service bulletin link. PDF download 2 pages.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ac...505_blower.pdf

part # 04321-S0k-A00

Email me if you need help. I'm going to replace mine tomorrow. I have cleaned the plug a few time where it connects to the blower motor. The other day the motor stopped and when i reached down to move the plug to reinstate the connection, it was very hot. Time to replace. I don't want mine to melt so that I have to take out the motor to get it off the blower motor.

Ronmarr1

Luke7 - Thanks for the link - I fear my connector has melted itself together and I may have to pull the motor in order just to get it apart which, may entail replacing the motor just to get a working connector and, testing the motor itself to see if it still works. I don't think I can separately get the female connector that is attached to the motor itself unless I can get one out of a wrecking yard and take it apart- we'll see though.

Ronmarr1

One more question if I might - the service bulletin 06-006 refers to an ETM for properly removing a terminal from a connector - is there a simple way to do this ie; sticking a jeweler screwdriver or other fine tipped tool into a slot to depress a tang or something similar that keeps the terminal in the connector?

Thanks

Ronmarr1

Well - got the motor out - connecter was shot/fell apart - I connected the two male spade connectors on the motor w/ the two female terminals from the failed connector & the fan ran (w/o the motor running) - saw/smelled some smoke though so shut it sown - not sure if it was the motor, the connection (probably the one on the motor) or the transistor/resistor.

On it goes - will try the new cable adaptor on the motor tomorrow - hopefully no smoke - Still need to figure out how to get a terminal out of the connector per the TSB - Maybe I can just splice the new one on that goes to the motor?

Ronmarr1

Update - It appears I fried the transistor when I tested the motor (which ran) - fuse is still good but obvious burn mark/odor from transistor - I'm thinking the blower motor connection is fried too? Anyway - getting the updated cable & transistor from the dealer tomorrow & found a used blower motor for 35.00 locally.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Luke7

Not sure how to get the terminal out of the connector to put the new one in. I should find out today.

Luke7

If you figure out how to release the terminal out of the connector let me know. Sure there is some trick to it. I was trying to see how the new terminal released on the new harness. Simple probably if you know where to stick a pin or small screwdriver in to release it but I have no clue yet.

Ronmarr1

@Luke7 - Will do - I am heading out in a little while to pick up the new harness and power transistor from the dealer & used blower motor from another place - Hopefully someone will clue me in -

Also, I am having a bit if an issue getting the brown 7P connector (C202) apart
because it is behind the right side of the dash where you take the 2 screws out for the cover over the cabin air filters. It has a tab on it and am not sure if one pushes it in or pries it out.


If you find out, let me know also

Luke7

After taking out the glove box I decided to just splice the new blower motor connector to the old wires. I didn't want to disturb the other harnesses after seeing where they were and not knowing how to release the old wires from the harness. I had a wire connector that just needed crimped to connect the new harness with the old wires. Was going to solder the wires but they are fairly heavy copper and it would have taken me forever to do that and get a good connection by soldering. Ran the fan motor for about 8 minutes on full and all is well. No heat buildup at the connections or plug. I did clean and sand the terminals on the blower motor to make sure I'd get a good connection.

Luke7

The motor is easy to get out. 3 Bolts if I remember right. The C202 has a clip on it. You pry outward on it and it should release. I was going to do that but thought best to leave the connector alone since it looked in good shape. My only issue was the blower motor connector starting to melt and burn up. I'm glad I caught it in time~!

Ronmarr1

I got all the parts today - Talked to a tech at the dealer about the tsb and he said "Yeah we've done a bunch of those" but mysteriously enough (yeah right) - was unable to recall how to get the terminals in/out of the connectors. I am going to take some close-up photos of them to a commercial electrical dealer on Monday like EOFF or Graybar who will know about the connectors - I was gonna splice but want to make sure of the integrity.

I'll post the info when I get it. Sure hope it fixes things when I 'm done.

victus1

You can easily splice into the wire and solder the wires. Use a double layer of heat-shrink tubing and you have a bulletproof connection. Not worth wasting your time with pins & connectors.

Ronmarr1

Which is what I will do after I confirm that the shorting issue I had (when I tested the blower motor) that burned out the transistor did not happen to other wiring. I have a heat shrink gun already.

Ronmarr1

Got the harness installed and all appears to be working normally now - Had to butt splice/crimp the yellow/black wire (blower motor) as the 7 pin connector is simply too hard to get at. The blue/red wire (power transistor) was not too hard so I went ahead an used the connector/terminal there.

Thanks to all for the advice!!

Luke7

Glad it works. Going to have record breaking temps. here the next few days. I really wanted to solder the connections but my small soldering iron and the size of the copper wires didn't work. Hopefully the connector will work fine. Pretty easy fix. Just glad I caught mine before it burnt up completely.

Ronmarr1

I found the yellow/black wire too thick for my soldering iron as well - I use the
same connectors on my boat w/o issue and I have another one available should it come loose again. Won't have to take anything apart if it does come loose for some reason. Gonna be hot here tomorrow as well.