I have a 2003 TL-S. What is seafoam? How do I use it? Where do I get it?

 

no one?

 

I think the lack of response is due to the 1000 seafoam threads you can find by scrolling thru the thread list, or using search feature, or the major coverage in the DIY section,,the best one being `seafoam specifically for 03 but works for all years`

its a real `tune up in a can`- removes years of carbon buildup, cleans O2 sensors and cat. cleans fuel lines and injectors

easy method for noobs to seafoam, such as yourself:

Buy 2 16 ounce cans at any parts store = total $20
when gas guage is just below half, add 1 full can to tank and drive as normal
when tank gets down to refuel light, refill tank,,or fill halfway
when down to just under half (8 gallons) add the 2nd can of seafoam
drive normally,,play if you want.. using vtec rpm,,stomping on the throttle at 3000 to 5000 etc
so it is working in all parts of the system at high flow rates.. while engine hot
seafoam likes heat!
thats the safest, easiest way to seafoam the basic parts

just before next oil change add 1/2 can seafoam to oil and drive 30 minutes
change oil and filter while still warm
Amazing amount of crud will be removed, restores oil pressure, vtec works off oil pressure and changes in pressure
I do some runs into vtec rpm so its slider operating parts get cleaned-degummed from lack of use and dirty oil.

seafoam is great in the lawnmower or other gas powered yard tools, generators, lubes mechanics air tools, removes tar from car paint....

 

the diy has you spraying or sucking seafoam into a master vacuum port at throttle body-its instant results on back of intake valve and piston tops
versus the few days to weeks the gas tank way does
BUT gas method gets all the fuel system, which the vac port doesnt get at all
You can use both, it wont hurt but gas tank is more important-- and without the potential dangers of too much at once being inducted

noobs to seafoam should repeat in 1000-2000 miles, to get any remaining crud, then good for a year/15kmiles

 

Hey just a heads up. I was at home depot getting spark plugs for my mower, trimmer, etc and foind seafoam there in that area for 6 bucks a can. Go check them out first tonsve a few bucks if u can.

 

depot eh, will ck that out,,,some lowes do also, but not my area Doh!

 

But see the thing is is that I don't want to do it the noob way. I want to do it the normal way. So what's that?

 

Well the non-noob way would be to search and read one of the previous threads.

 

I am going to check on that.
Have not seen seafoam at the price for yrs...

 

I had to triple check it. I bought all the cans they had left lol there was like 8.

 

the fast method for PART of the cleaning--not including the critical fuel system
go see the diy,,look at the main gen2 thread list-as you enter,,3rd item down
`Official DIY list`
scroll thru that and seafoam has a whole section of its own
ignore years old post with bad info

TB master vac port is where you go
AND/or just-thru TB air inlet,,will get all the same areas plus clean and lube the throttle air plate and hinge!
Use deep creep seafoam aerosol--not the special one--full formula seafoam aerosol version
spray can control beats sip sip sip stall any day

 

you dont even know what seafoam is,,cant locate the search button to try on your own,,whine when not given an immediate anwer..
and want to jump ahead to the `experienced with cars` and `understands how not to put in too much at once`--instructions

MUCH safer to do it the `easy way`,,dont think of it as the noob way--
just the more efficient
per seafoam tech help line: 2 cans thru 2 half tanks of gas,,thats 2 oz per gallon of fuel
is more effective at cleaning all the intake valve backs/seals and stems, piston tops, fuel injector parts, restores spray pattern to injectors etc
Is more effective than 1 can thru vac port,,even 2 cans thru vac port,,still misses the entire fuel system

people make a big deal out of the smoke seafoam creates from exhaust--
its just the heat in cat reacting to the oils than make up seafoam,,not indication of clean or dirty engine, just a job well done

 

on a 1 to 10 scale
will it clean the oxygen sensors and wipe out the check engine light

 

negative ghost rider

 

If you don't have a mechanic or someone with experience around then listen to everyone else and use the gas take method. For faster results put it in to the vacuum line. Rev engine and hold. If there is crud in there your exhaust will start smoking white smoke and there may be a black discharge (hehe) from the the exhaust. Hold rev until smoke start to clear. Be warned it may be a lot of smoke. Check engine light may activate. You can even go driving to help the process. Once it has processed through the entire system you should notice a nice smoothness in you engine. Check engine little should eventually turn off. I used it twice a year on my BMW and it made a great difference in idle RPM and overall performance. I will add with my next oil change. Also I use the 1/3 can rule. Third in tank third in gas third in vacuum. So every part of the engine is reached thoroughly.

Source is from my dad 27 year mechanic

 

thats great but not accurate,,smoke is all about heat in engine and cat reacting to oils that make up seafoam
no smoke means poorly done
2000rpm steady and apply seafoam as fast as it will take it makes lots of smoke
but actual cleaning results not as good as varying sppeds and amount
too fast--too much at once = dollars thrown away
some 2000 is great, see seafoam site

1/3 can is not enough!!!! thats from 1940 sized engines

read the actual directions on their site www.seafoamsales.com
1oz per gal fuel is mid-year maitenance dose
2 oz per gal fuel is cleaning dose, do once a year,,thats 1 can to 8 gal, just under half tank in the TL
noobs do it twice to get years of crud removed, then good for a year

its a science and art form to using the vac port or TB opening
rpm control, pre-drive to warm it up, sit time not to exceed 15 minutes- afterdrive start up warm up and actual drive are very important
not--driving may help--its mandatory!

No= seafoam probably wont clear an existing CEL
what code are you getting with it--O2 sensor bank1?
thats a bad sensor,,anyone run 87octane in the car a lot? or high speeds?

it will clean good O2 sensors and cats, keeping them working for many years to come (per smog shop buddy)

 

the diy covers all this in detail

 

Can I do this as first step?

I bought the 3M Fuel System cleanup kit from Amazon. The video was so simple, but when I opened my TL hood, it was completely different, I am a noob and don't want to mess up something. So I returned it. I was searching this forum for seafoam and didn't want to do the vacuum port way.

Thank you for the nice instructions!

 

the engine oil method has nothing to do with the gas tank or vac port method
It only cleans oil passages and you can do it before any oil change
Im running it now for ~200 miles on new filter method
then change

do 2 times in the gas as described above