2000 TL Shaking Really Bad!!
2000 TL Shaking Really Bad!!
I have a 2000 Acura 3.2 TL and recently it started shaking really bad when I was stopped at a stop sign and after I drove off from the stop sign and made it to my destination I put it in park and it still was shaking and then my engine light came on. I just got a oil change last month and had to have some of the coils replaced but not all of them just the ones that were bad in 2008 as well but my husband seems to think its a belt that is causing it to shake because he looked under the hood while it was running but I'm not sure if its a belt or could it be something else?
probably another coil failure,,
its odd to really need 3 or 4 when it gives a mutli cylinder misfire codes, but shops will take advantage and replace them all if possible
Have the spark plugs been replaced? NGK Iridium or NGK Platinum used?
whats your current mileage?
timing belt service done?
valve adjust ever done
Do you use seafoam or other fuel treatment?
If the timing belt were coming apart it could cause many problems- hopefully your husband would sense something that wrong while looking at the engine~
go to a parts store for a free code scanning/reading and report back here
If its multi cyl misfire its probably 1 coil
Might be a failed motor mount!! they are vacuum assisted and failure causes engine miss,,but not dramatic
do you drive in extreme temps or odd manner?
its odd to really need 3 or 4 when it gives a mutli cylinder misfire codes, but shops will take advantage and replace them all if possible
Have the spark plugs been replaced? NGK Iridium or NGK Platinum used?
whats your current mileage?
timing belt service done?
valve adjust ever done
Do you use seafoam or other fuel treatment?
If the timing belt were coming apart it could cause many problems- hopefully your husband would sense something that wrong while looking at the engine~
go to a parts store for a free code scanning/reading and report back here
If its multi cyl misfire its probably 1 coil
Might be a failed motor mount!! they are vacuum assisted and failure causes engine miss,,but not dramatic
do you drive in extreme temps or odd manner?
I had the same problem where the car shook wildly and RPM's just dipped, and car shutting off.
My mechanic says he sees this a lot on Acura and Honda's. He replaced my 02 sensor and I haven't had the problem since.
My mechanic says he sees this a lot on Acura and Honda's. He replaced my 02 sensor and I haven't had the problem since.
Your car looks nice bro. As for tho OP troubles, I agree with some others. Replacing just a few coils is like replacing only the bad spark plugs. You should have replaced them all as odds are the others were not far behind from failing either. 02 sensor is another issue it could be but instead of fishing yourself, do NOT pull the battery to reset as it will wipe out the codes and go to advanced or a place like it to have the codes read so they can tell you what needs to be done. Good luck bro!!!
A: you only have to replace the bad coil when it goes- not all of them--
exception would be if the failure occured after incompetant plug change and coils were damaged by mishandling--it happens for other reasons but very few
B: dont disconnect the battery NEG cable ,as said above-
keep the codes so they can be read--
note codes are clues not diagnosis-
multiple cyl misfire can be 1 coil or just a loose wire!
an easier way to reset the ECU is remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
its the secret backup power to ecu and forces a master reset
When you do the battery cable method you have to input the radio security code.
If you dont have it handy or dont know it yet, thats a major pita
clock fuse method doesnt cause that issue
exception would be if the failure occured after incompetant plug change and coils were damaged by mishandling--it happens for other reasons but very few
B: dont disconnect the battery NEG cable ,as said above-
keep the codes so they can be read--
note codes are clues not diagnosis-
multiple cyl misfire can be 1 coil or just a loose wire!
an easier way to reset the ECU is remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash
its the secret backup power to ecu and forces a master reset
When you do the battery cable method you have to input the radio security code.
If you dont have it handy or dont know it yet, thats a major pita
clock fuse method doesnt cause that issue
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here totald- from sorias post above
`do NOT pull the battery to reset as it will wipe out the codes and go to advanced or a place like it to have the codes read so they can tell you what needs to be done. Good luck bro!!!`
I was trying to agree with: dont disconnect neg cable-keep the codes till read,
and the intent was to point out the radio security code vs clock fuse method
`do NOT pull the battery to reset as it will wipe out the codes and go to advanced or a place like it to have the codes read so they can tell you what needs to be done. Good luck bro!!!`
I was trying to agree with: dont disconnect neg cable-keep the codes till read,
and the intent was to point out the radio security code vs clock fuse method
good call on the motor mounts yayo-
always worth looking at the front for sure-
ck from underneath for traces of oil from it--the front and rear are fluid filled, thats why ~120$ part!
front often fails around 70kmiles and goes unnoticed until trans dies, when an acura tech knows to look for the problem
pass side mount takes extra load and fails too
there is a big differance between engine misfire feel, and jumping jerking feeling of bad mounts...if you have worked with cars for most of your life
always worth looking at the front for sure-
ck from underneath for traces of oil from it--the front and rear are fluid filled, thats why ~120$ part!
front often fails around 70kmiles and goes unnoticed until trans dies, when an acura tech knows to look for the problem
pass side mount takes extra load and fails too
there is a big differance between engine misfire feel, and jumping jerking feeling of bad mounts...if you have worked with cars for most of your life
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