I made one by welding boxed steel between my strut towers, takes bumps way better less hop from recoil, tell me how to post a pic and i will

 

get the link

not the address

 

so right click on pictures...

properties..

copy paste the link that ends with .jpg

or .png.. or watever it is..
if you're using firefox.. it should be

Location: ( direct link to the picture )

then.. once you have that right picture link

[ img ] link [ / img ] <--- minus the space

 

or at least post a link to it

 

i would like to see this. but its not gonna do much, seeing how our seats are foldable and we have those triangles behind the seats for stability. a lower tie bar would be great.

 

I want to see this too.

 

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6279752_s.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6407327_s.jpg


lemme kno if this works, i uploaded them to my facebook

 

really small. but i dont think it did much.

 

good shit now get every other bar.....

 

this impoves upon the stability even with the lower front and rear tie bars

 

bigger pictures please , my thumb can cover the whole picture on my screen

 

let me help





don't ask how i kno how to do these things..

 

looks more like a brace bar rather than a strut bar..

strut bar would bolt to where your strut towers are..

thats like...

a "c-pillar" bar..

 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...=1186801068723

 

MUCH BETTER PICTURES
, but did you even reenforce the strut towers cause it looks like you just welded the steel bar straight to it with just sitting it straight on to the lip created by the inner sheet metal
(reenforce in like a 6x6x0.25 plate so it does not punch through or eventually tear the sheet metal from the small weld area)

 

where did u get teh rear tie bar?

 

proably an accord bar or something

 

thats what im thinking, but when i was looking for one months ago, i only saw one for an i4 accord

 

ur right ebay accord bar rear, cusco tie bar front. THe bar i had welded in is dirrectly above the thin covring metal to the thin metal that that actually holds the strut on

 

Rsb > *

 

ohhh a single piping exhaust.

 

Its a sticky

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-photograph-gallery-99/%2A%2A%2Ainstructions-posting-pictures%2A%2A%2A-573134/

 

i was thinking that the sheet metal there might be a little thicker cause it's the strut tower, but i would still go back and reinforce it with at least 1/8 inch steel plate

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/members/flacoj-256468-albums-custom-rear-strut-tower-brace-4342/ all pics for ur viewing pleasure of the junk in my trunk, litterally

 

and to say the welds look shitty and need to be redone, also next time try cleaning the paint off (grinding) the paint off first

 

welds dont look great. but if u like it then ok

 

is it straight?

 

the welder is 6'2 ,climbed in the trunk backwards and almost caught everything on fire he removed to welders mask frantically to blow out the flame, welding to such a thin metal in that position is ruff. We tried to yank it off and it didn't, so its good, meaning it serves its purpose the bar costs $8 and change plus some creativity, and a welder willing to climb in your trunk and mess the least amout of stuff up, U to can enjoy more repsonsive handling, and better ride quality

 

^ i dont think this does anything.

 

i am 6' 4" and when i wired up my amp and had to mount i had no problem especially when i took out the spare tire and sat in the well
about the fire, that its why you have compressed air next to you or something (btw: was it the paint that caught on fire?)

 

Yup, if anything, it might break in a hard turn.

 

think what you'd like the rear end is firmer, the car understeers less. Today I came out of an underpass u turn at 55mph, I'm quite happy with the results!

 

cool. that's all that matter bro. thanks for sharing your creation. Any addition in rigidity does help to varying degrees.

 

get a progress 3rd gen tl rear adjustable sway bar. WORLD of diff when i went auto crossing.

 

Im 6'5 and have gotten into tighter trunks to weld that that.

 

the weld job was done, kudos to every big person that can manage to contort into a trunk and operate their hands now if yall are offering to reweld my strut brace, to make it look pretty with all of yalls great abilities be my guest, or if u really wanna show off, do the mod yourselfs and take pics of you doin it, nothing funnier than a big person in something small otherwise your just tooting your own horn for no reason, the same thing goes to the over sized gentleman who wired his own amp, I am glad big people are able to do work with there hands aswell! if they had a gold star icon id place it right here

 

I think its doing some work.. Probably not the best spot where you reinforced it... Maybe you should try making some plates, and actually bolting it down to the strut towers??? I've done a front and rear before, and its pretty damn simple... if you can grind, drill, and weld, then you'll have a badass bar for cheap, and unique..

 

its less than five inches from the where the strut bolts down, and it sits just above the layer of cheap thin metal that blankets the strut tower, doing anything out side of the trunk would take away the luxury appeal if I was to eliminate the felt carpeting on the back dash, then id pay alot to have a bar fabricated that i could bolt in with the strut it self, its a tight fit to even get your hand in there much less a fabricated bar with bolt hole flanges to be bolted down, The bar is as effcient as one piece of metal could be, it is very unintrusive, u have to bend down to see it. All this extra fabrication would cost more than 8 bucks.

 

but the funny thing is that: that area does not see a whole lot of flexing because the upper controls are attached to the subframe so it is only the strut tops there, but it could lessen the chassis twisting a little bit, but i don't think anything that noticeable, but each to their own, still redo the welds though and reinforce it though

 

there is very little that would actually move in that area, the strut towers are already tied into the rear deck to keep stiffness. Also what is the size and gauge of that steel bar? It doesnt look like its that big