Outlaw Spacers
All right guys well I am probably the only person here that has ever messed up installing some damn spacers but here it goes.
I follow the DIY and Outlaw instructions on removing and installing. Everything goes great, use 4 cans to clean EGR. Everything is VERY clean. I go to take it for a test drive after hooking everything back up and my TCS and Transmission check lights are on. The engine runs very rough and the transmission if shakey when it shifts. The engine only becomes shakey when I take my foot of the gas, otherwise the car is fine. Do you think I need to adjust the throttle cables? At idle the cable is loose and the throttle is closed. Is it supposted to be open a little bit? By the way, at idle my RPM's are up at around 2 instead of down around 1 like it used to be. Also RPM's are higher then normal when driving. Any ideas? Thanks
P.S. Trans is only two months old.
I follow the DIY and Outlaw instructions on removing and installing. Everything goes great, use 4 cans to clean EGR. Everything is VERY clean. I go to take it for a test drive after hooking everything back up and my TCS and Transmission check lights are on. The engine runs very rough and the transmission if shakey when it shifts. The engine only becomes shakey when I take my foot of the gas, otherwise the car is fine. Do you think I need to adjust the throttle cables? At idle the cable is loose and the throttle is closed. Is it supposted to be open a little bit? By the way, at idle my RPM's are up at around 2 instead of down around 1 like it used to be. Also RPM's are higher then normal when driving. Any ideas? Thanks P.S. Trans is only two months old.
you DO have to adjust the throttle cable and cruise cable after TB spacer install- it makes a big change in the space since its 5/8 an inch thicker than when you took it apart.
The cables should have a slight deflection down when pushed with thumb, not too hard- not too easy. Use the adjuster nut to move the metal threaded cable shroud thru the cable holder plate. That tightens or loosens the cable attachment end- to mount distance
Also lube the spring area
The cables should have a slight deflection down when pushed with thumb, not too hard- not too easy. Use the adjuster nut to move the metal threaded cable shroud thru the cable holder plate. That tightens or loosens the cable attachment end- to mount distance
Also lube the spring area
you also have a major vac leak to cause idle at 2000
There is a possibilty the upper-most gasket got re-installed upside down, if you fit it to
the top cover plate- it looks correct but is not!
Pull the top cover piece off- test the gasket when fitted to the manifold side and make sure all the ports and holes are open as needed- its the way the gasket fits--
That has happened a few times and is easy to check and fix
Do not drive with idle and other probs
There is a possibilty the upper-most gasket got re-installed upside down, if you fit it to
the top cover plate- it looks correct but is not!
Pull the top cover piece off- test the gasket when fitted to the manifold side and make sure all the ports and holes are open as needed- its the way the gasket fits--
That has happened a few times and is easy to check and fix
Do not drive with idle and other probs
Thanks 01. I will check immediately after work today and get back to you. So you are saying that the gasket that came with the spacer for the plenium could be upside down? When I installed the metal gasket, spacer, and supplied gasket it appeared everything was lined up correctly. I thought the gasket could only go on one way but I guess I'm wrong. Thanks and I will keep you updated on how everything went.
P.S. I will not be driving to work.
P.S. I will not be driving to work.
the very top cover gasket- it would not have been replaced- just reused-
so it sometimes gets flipped over when you take it off and put on the workbench- then its upside down,,, and gets installed..
Remove the very top cover- NOT the manifold itself, the gasket looks like it only goes one way, but it can be flipped and fit the holes, but blocks another part
so it sometimes gets flipped over when you take it off and put on the workbench- then its upside down,,, and gets installed..
Remove the very top cover- NOT the manifold itself, the gasket looks like it only goes one way, but it can be flipped and fit the holes, but blocks another part
You guys can laugh all you want at this I am giving you permission now. I swear I checked over everything but I didn't do a very good job.
I forgot to plug the connecter in under the throttle body. That would make sense as to why the TCS light was on. So the TCS light has gone away but my check trans light is still on. I checked the gasket under the top plate and that WAS on correctly. I checked coolant level and its full. I am going to pull it up on some ramps in a little and check to make sure everything is still connected to the trans correctly. Do you guys have any idea as to why the trans light is still on? If I can't figure this out I am going to end up taking everything apart again and start from square one.
I forgot to plug the connecter in under the throttle body. That would make sense as to why the TCS light was on. So the TCS light has gone away but my check trans light is still on. I checked the gasket under the top plate and that WAS on correctly. I checked coolant level and its full. I am going to pull it up on some ramps in a little and check to make sure everything is still connected to the trans correctly. Do you guys have any idea as to why the trans light is still on? If I can't figure this out I am going to end up taking everything apart again and start from square one.
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passenger footwell area- fuse #12 iirc, it says CLOCK
thats the secret backup power for the ECU, main computer
or if you know the radio and nav security codes- remove battery NEG cable for a minute and put it back on.
That will force an ECU reset too.
Its like doing a hot-shutdown on the home computer- the system does a full check on restart- and the car relearns how you drive and how it runs for about 500 miles
thats the secret backup power for the ECU, main computer
or if you know the radio and nav security codes- remove battery NEG cable for a minute and put it back on.
That will force an ECU reset too.
Its like doing a hot-shutdown on the home computer- the system does a full check on restart- and the car relearns how you drive and how it runs for about 500 miles
Make sure the radiator level is FULL- as well as the bottle,
**** and the res bottle--- the cap has a rubber hose that attaches to the top inside- make sure thats attached and not dropped off into the res. Will not work without the hose in place
a little bit of coolant dripped out of the bypass lines as you removed them- the radiator must be topped-off full to eliminate air, so the bottle will transfer back and forth as needed with temp
**** and the res bottle--- the cap has a rubber hose that attaches to the top inside- make sure thats attached and not dropped off into the res. Will not work without the hose in place
a little bit of coolant dripped out of the bypass lines as you removed them- the radiator must be topped-off full to eliminate air, so the bottle will transfer back and forth as needed with temp
Yup I thought about doing that after I went to autozone so they could read the codes. But I just pulled battery cable off and let sit for about 5-10 minutes while I was washing my car. Started her back up, no codes and runs like a charm. Went for a test drive and I absolutely love the spacers! thanks for your help guys
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I felt a good bit in the low end too. Better pedal response
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