J35A3 sourcing recommendations

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Old 02-10-2018, 10:54 PM
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J35A3 sourcing recommendations

Looking to pull the trigger on a J35 for my TL-s. Have scoured LKQ and local yards and it seems motors w/less than 100k are pretty hard to come by. Does something with 110-140k for $700-800ish sound about right? Any other vendors I should be looking at? Anything else in particular I should be wary of with these engines?

Thanks
Old 02-11-2018, 06:48 AM
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^
I just did a search for the 'Northeast' on car-part.com '01-02 MDX 'engine' and there were literally pages of them. You may want to procure south of your general northeast location to save a little cash.

Good Luck!
Old 02-11-2018, 06:52 AM
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​​​​​J35A3's for days on car-part.com
Old 02-11-2018, 11:26 AM
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Thanks guys. What would you consider as a mileage cutoff point. 140k? More?
Old 02-11-2018, 02:08 PM
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This guy has one, e6223 P796, for $600 with 76K. It is only 278 miles from zip 03031 (picked randomly for S. New Hamp.)
If you do a 'used parts search' on the link below, it appears they have about five qualifying MDX's on the lot.
https://www.cartelautoparts.com/

Old 02-11-2018, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy
Thanks guys. What would you consider as a mileage cutoff point. 140k? More?
Maybe 200k? With that said, we are talking about Honda motors, stout is an understatement. Only problem with used motors is that you don't know how well or poorly the previous owner(s) maintained it.

If it makes you feel better, I recently swapped in a 130kish miles $200 J35A6 into my 06' TL. Except for some slight oil burning, thing takes a beating, then asks for another..

Try to atleast get a compression test done.
Old 02-11-2018, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
This guy has one, e6223 P796, for $600 with 76K. It is only 278 miles from zip 03031 (picked randomly for S. New Hamp.)
If you do a 'used parts search' on the link below, it appears they have about five qualifying MDX's on the lot.
https://www.cartelautoparts.com/

Thanks man. That looks like a good one. 5.5 hr drive so I'll give them a jingle tomorrow to see what the shipping is to my area.
Old 02-11-2018, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by teh CL
Maybe 200k? With that said, we are talking about Honda motors, stout is an understatement. Only problem with used motors is that you don't know how well or poorly the previous owner(s) maintained it.

If it makes you feel better, I recently swapped in a 130kish miles $200 J35A6 into my 06' TL. Except for some slight oil burning, thing takes a beating, then asks for another..

Try to atleast get a compression test done.
Compression test is a must. thanks for the insight.
Old 02-12-2018, 08:54 AM
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Found one about an hour away. 91k for $200. Vehicle just came in a week ago with right rear collision. Runs good and compression ok. Picking it up on wednesday. Let the fun begin!
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Old 02-12-2018, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy
Found one about an hour away. 91k for $200. Vehicle just came in a week ago with right rear collision. Runs good and compression ok. Picking it up on wednesday. Let the fun begin!
Nice.
Is it this one in N. Mass?
E170306; Ollie's Inc. 91K $200; 2002 MDX

Ollie's, Inc.

Old 02-12-2018, 03:46 PM
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^^That's the one, but.............It sounded too good to be true so I ran a Carfax and the thing had 140k in 2015 with 5 previous owners so my guess is it really has 191k instead of 91k. Told them not to bother.

The search goes on.
Old 02-12-2018, 03:50 PM
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Ouch.
Good catch with the 'due diligence'. Those 'salvage dogs' can be deceptive.
Old 02-12-2018, 04:49 PM
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Shady fucks
Old 02-13-2018, 11:59 AM
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found one for $600 with 72k but it's been sitting on the shelf for 3 yrs. I'm a little concerned about that amount of time on the shelf.

What say you guys?
Old 02-13-2018, 01:16 PM
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^
See that's the 'game' with salvage yards, it's really a 'role of the dice'.

I can tell you this, 2ndgentl, a member on the CL side bought a local 6-speed J32A2 engine, with 67K, back in Feb2017, after frying a hole in the #5 piston due to the lack of a tune running a S/C'er. Anyway, he said that when he arrived to pick the engine up, the salvage yard peeps dropped the oil pan and he removed one of the valve covers and it looked 'clean as a whistle'. He later found out that it had been on the shelf for '...almost 10 years.' Unfortunately, when he got it back to his place for compression test/inspection he found when he removed the IM that the block was cracked and had to take it back. He was lucky that he did not have to 'eat' any shipping charges in that case.

After that engine, he then bought one from some place in WI that had been sitting for like 7 years with 108K. Unfortunately, that one had low compression numbers when he inspected it upon arrival. The salvage peeps gave him his money back (IIRC it was $250) but he had to eat the shipping $200. They let him keep the engine.

He eventually went with a local J35A3 with like 80K for $350, 'third time the charm'

Originally Posted by zeta
2ndgentl, Just an FYI.

I did a little digging on Calumet Autoparts website and the CL-S6 engine ZK2303 you purchased may have been on their lot a little longer than they told you above.

They have a 'new inventory' 2001 Auto CL that was purchased in 10Aug2016, just over a year ago #GH6613; however, if you look at the pictures of ZK2303 '03 6-speed (108,363kmiles) you will see that there is a date stamp of 19Nov2009, so this appears to be an older inventory car. The individual may have just had the #GH6613 car 'on the brain' when you asked about it and just made a mistake and told you '...a little over a year'.

You can check it out for yourself by clicking their website link below. Go to the bottom of the page and click 'Parts Search'. A list of 'New Inventory' cars is pulled up and the only CL that is listed comes up as #GH6613 purchased in Aug 2016.

http://www.calumetautoparts.com/

Press the 'Inventory' tab at the top, then click 'select' next to 'engine assembly'. the next screen will allow you to 'shop' for either a 'BASE'; TYPE-S MT; or TYPE-S AT. When you 'click' the TYPE-S MT; click the year on the next page and it will bring up the inventoried 6-speed VIN 19UYA41673A011247. There is no purchased date listed; however, the pictures give it away.

You may want to follow-up with them and make sure they send you the #ZK2303 6-speed engine.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Damn, good eye Zeta! I don't know how I missed that yesterday after looking at those pictures. I just went on their website and when you search for the j32a2 6-speed engine the zk2303 doesn't come up on the list anymore, which means the order is in process. Damn, so it's been sitting for over 7 years...the one that I purchased with the cracked block sat for almost 10 yrs and it looked clean as a whistle when they dropped the oil pan and when I took a valve cover off, but still something to keep in the back of my mind. When this engine arrives you better believe that I am going to inspect every millimeter on it. I am also going to call "Kevin" (the guy I talked to) and talk to him about his hiccup, because it clearly states on the pics that the cl has been there since Nov. 19, 2009. I hope it's a good clean running engine....
Old 02-13-2018, 01:59 PM
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I hear ya brotha. This is my daily driver so I'd prefer minimal dicking around once the swap is done. Always a gamble but want the odds in my favor.
Old 02-13-2018, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy
I hear ya brotha. This is my daily driver so I'd prefer minimal dicking around once the swap is done. Always a gamble but want the odds in my favor.
I hear you.
You know all of this; however, this is what I would do:
1) Purchase with credit card just in case things get nasty.
2) Talk to salvage yard, try to leverage the fact that the 'lump' has been sitting for three years and see what recourse is available if the engine is delivered and found to have low compression numbers/unseen damage upon delivery inspection.
OR
3) Wait until that local 'unicorn' presents itself so that you can remove the 'sight unseen' variables and inspect it before 'hitting the road'.
Old 02-13-2018, 02:21 PM
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hehe. I keep having to reign myself in to avoid being impulsive. I'm not in a huge rush so I may just spend some time each day looking for the unicorn. I'll give it two weeks then be impulsive

Pretty much made up my mind I'll go with a local yard within 1.5hrs to avoid everything you said.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:51 PM
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Maybe not a unicorn but I think it’s gonna work. Has 116k for $350 w/6mo warranty. Preliminary visual checks good. Hand turned through each stroke and they all felt pretty even and strong. I’ll throw a compression gauge on it when I get back next week. I’m sure I’ll have several questions about this project so I may start another thread.
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:20 PM
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^
Nice! Congrats as well.

When everything checks out, you won't have much to convert compared to the 6-speed guys. Maybe just do a timing belt and/or the connecting pipe and water jacket from the J32 and you should be ready to drop it in. Or are you taking the J32 heads/cams?

No need to start a new thread, just have one of the moderators rename this one to reflect what your doing. Just saying, that way your 'whole' journey is all here in one convenient place.

Good Luck!
Old 02-17-2018, 05:27 AM
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Thanks Zeta.

Here's my plan:
new Aisin belt kit (TKH-001)
new DC headers (HHC5528)
swap cams(cylinder heads will be left alone)
swap water jackets
delete IM spacer
OEM rear eng. mount (I've had it with the steering wheel vibrations at idle)

Here's a couple of questions:

1- can I swap just the camshafts themselves and leave the lower mileage J35 LMA's and rocker assemblies or should they all be swapped together? The LMA's and rockers appear to be the same part no.

2- different part numbers for serpentine belts between the two motors so which one do I get? I'm guessing I should get the J32 belt as I'll be reusing the old compressor and alternator.

3- is it worth my time to pull the intake runners and do a port polish?

That's all I have for now, I'm sure there will be more
Old 02-17-2018, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Iggy
Thanks Zeta.

Here's my plan:
new Aisin belt kit (TKH-001)
new DC headers (HHC5528)
swap cams(cylinder heads will be left alone)
swap water jackets
delete IM spacer
OEM rear eng. mount (I've had it with the steering wheel vibrations at idle)
The only thing I would add to that list if you had not already thought about it would be in regards to changing the 'rear main seal' on the J35.

Originally Posted by Iggy
1- can I swap just the camshafts themselves and leave the lower mileage J35 LMA's and rocker assemblies or should they all be swapped together? The LMA's and rockers appear to be the same part no.
Here's what I asked Karanx7 months ago, hope it helps answer your question:

Originally Posted by zeta
Karanx7 when you performed your J35 swap on the TL-P, did you 'source' J32 Type-S heads/cams or did you just use the J35 heads?
When I researched your threads I could not find any specific mention of what you ended up with. What are your impressions?
Originally Posted by Karanx7
I went Stock -> True manual J32A2 and 6 Speed swap -> AEM EMS 2 -> J35A3
I bought a wrecked 03 CL-S6 for the true manual swap, so I had a manual J32A2 laying around. I'm using those J32A2 cams in my J35A3. I didn't think it was worth swapping the heads, because I didn't want to deal with the head gasket. The manual J32A2 heads have better valve springs, 1mm larger valves(I think), and better Vtec LMAs. I still hit 7.2k rpm without problems though, so I don't regret not swapping the heads (the cams swap is a must though).
Originally Posted by zeta
Nice! Thanks for the response, there's alot of useful info there. When you swapped over the J32 cams to the J35 heads, did you run into any 'particulars' in regards to any components, during the process, that would need to be noted for someone who would want to do the same thing? Any short cuts, etc. if you had to do it again?

The only reason I ask is because the only other two guys, hitek9 and adam kovach (whom you don't see much on here), that have done a J35 swap just pulled J32 heads off their donor 'lumps' and put them on their J35's, presumably after having them checked for warpage. Therefore, there is not alot of detail and such on the actual 'cam swap' aspect.
Originally Posted by Karanx7
It was REALLY easy with the engines out and next to each other. It took maybe 15 minutes per cam, and I was being paranoid about everything. You undo a few bolts that hold down the camshaft, slide them out, swap them, slide them back in, and do a valve adjustment. The hardest part of the cam swap was doing the valve adjustment.


Originally Posted by Iggy
2- different part numbers for serpentine belts between the two motors so which one do I get? I'm guessing I should get the J32 belt as I'll be reusing the old compressor and alternator.
I would go with the J32 belt.

Originally Posted by Iggy
3- is it worth my time to pull the intake runners and do a port polish?
Good question, If I had the time to burn and the equipment to perform the P&P it would be hard to resist with both engines out of the car.

Hopefully, others will chime in with their opinions to help.

Last edited by zeta; 02-17-2018 at 06:53 AM.
Old 02-17-2018, 08:58 PM
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Excellent info Zeta. Yes, I forgot to mention rear seal but it's on the list. Just ordered the headers and timing belt kit last night. My local Acura dealer 5 minutes down the road has me as a wholesale customer for parts so their prices are right in line with any online vendor which is convenient. stay tuned
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:34 PM
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Few more questions.

1-Is it easier to pull the engine with or without the trans attached?

2-Which spark plugs will be best with the cam swap considered?
PZFR5F-11 (2002 MDX)
PZFR6E-11 (2002 TL-s)

3-what octane fuel should I plan to use?

4-what's the best way to do a compression check with engine on a stand. Can I get a good enough reading turning it over by hand with a ratchet or will I need a low rpm drill or something?

Last edited by Iggy; 02-18-2018 at 12:49 PM.
Old 02-18-2018, 08:10 PM
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Iggy, you are probably getting tired of hearing from me, hehe; however, it seems like I'm the only one giving you any action.

Maybe more peeps will chime in when the weekdays roll around, anyway:

Originally Posted by Iggy
1-Is it easier to pull the engine with or without the trans attached?
Never have tried it myself; however, when Eric the Car Guy did that 3 part series on pulling a 6-speed TL engine out from the top he took the tranny and it looked fairly easy.

Originally Posted by Iggy
2-Which spark plugs will be best with the cam swap considered?
PZFR5F-11 (2002 MDX)
PZFR6E-11 (2002 TL-s)
What I found was that the 2002 MDX owners manual called for 'special platinum-tipped design for longer life' plugs, which would be the PZFR5F-11's you have listed. In addition, the coil packs on the '02 MDX J35A3 do not share the same part # as the coil packs on the '02 TL-S. So, I'm not sure if your '02 TL-S harness wires will be compatible with the '02 MDX coil packs. If they are not, than you may have to use the TL-S coils packs. Since both of the plug part #'s you listed above are 'Lasar Platinum' it may not matter much which you choose.

Originally Posted by Iggy
3-what octane fuel should I plan to use?
The '02 MDX owner's manual I found via google calls for 'pump octane 91 or higher'.

Originally Posted by Iggy
4-what's the best way to do a compression check with engine on a stand. Can I get a good enough reading turning it over by hand with a ratchet or will I need a low rpm drill or something?
This one I can't answer since I've never done one.

Last edited by zeta; 02-18-2018 at 08:16 PM.
Old 02-18-2018, 08:21 PM
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Thanks zeta. Appreciate your help. I saw the same eric the car guy video, but that was a manual trans which weighs considerably less than the auto. Was following midori's thread and he left the trans in for his first swap. I'll have to look at it.
Old 02-18-2018, 08:28 PM
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No problem.

BTW, I just checked the compatibility of the PZFR5F-11's and it appears they can be used in both the 02 MDX & TL-S.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Acura...-/271172580483
Old 02-19-2018, 05:22 PM
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Did a quick compression check turning it over by hand with long breaker bar and I'm getting 155psi +/- 5 across all cylinders. I think we have a winner!

Timing belt kit just delivered so that's my project for tomorrow
Old 03-22-2018, 09:48 PM
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Good luck! And congrats! Here in Washington, the selection for J35a3 is quite bad. Either too expensive (700+ for decent 115k), or super high mileage! (180k+)
Old 03-22-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ksu90
Good luck! And congrats! Here in Washington, the selection for J35a3 is quite bad. Either too expensive (700+ for decent 115k), or super high mileage! (180k+)
Thanks man. She runs great.

Here's my build thread https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...roject-967294/
Old 04-15-2018, 10:39 PM
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Just checked this thread out and saw you went with a J35a3. It's been awhile since I've last been on acurazine, but I went with that same swap (J35a3) and couldn't be happier. I think the only difference internally is that I put the Type-S cams on the J35a3. The car is an absolute torque beast! I just wish I could find some time to get this thing dyno'd and see what numbers she's putting down. Good luck with that engine, you have some really good peeps on here answering all the questions you might have. Zeta was a was a big help to me when I was doing my swap!
Old 04-15-2018, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Just checked this thread out and saw you went with a J35a3. It's been awhile since I've last been on acurazine, but I went with that same swap (J35a3) and couldn't be happier. I think the only difference internally is that I put the Type-S cams on the J35a3. The car is an absolute torque beast! I just wish I could find some time to get this thing dyno'd and see what numbers she's putting down. Good luck with that engine, you have some really good peeps on here answering all the questions you might have. Zeta was a was a big help to me when I was doing my swap!
True dat. Do you have all bot ons?
Old 04-15-2018, 11:50 PM
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J35a3, type-s cams, 4" short ram intake, 76mm blox TB and spacer, 09 TL-SH AWD Intake Manifold, Ridgeline IM spacer, ported runners, LW pulleys, LW flywheel, Comptech headers, 2.5" exhaust with cat and resonator delete, Comptech mufflers
Old 04-15-2018, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
J35a3, type-s cams, 4" short ram intake, 76mm blox TB and spacer, 09 TL-SH AWD Intake Manifold, Ridgeline IM spacer, ported runners, LW pulleys, LW flywheel, Comptech headers, 2.5" exhaust with cat and resonator delete, Comptech mufflers

Yup, thats fill bolt ons. I have full bolt ons too but do not have the J35A3 in yet. I'll make sure to get a dyno before and after to quantify the gains on what it looks like.

Also, what wheels and tires you running? Any traction issues? I have 3G TLS wheels 235/45/17 Pilot Sport AS 3+ (great traction for all bolt ons)
Old 04-16-2018, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ksu90
Yup, thats fill bolt ons. I have full bolt ons too but do not have the J35A3 in yet. I'll make sure to get a dyno before and after to quantify the gains on what it looks like.

Also, what wheels and tires you running? Any traction issues? I have 3G TLS wheels 235/45/17 Pilot Sport AS 3+ (great traction for all bolt ons)
I have 18x9+35 Enkei Rpf1's with Hankook Ventus RS 3 235/45/18 tires. Absolutely no traction in 1st or 2nd. If I punch it in 2nd @ 40 mph it will spin the tires. That's what I mean by torque monster. I'm thinking of either getting 255's or 265's.
Old 04-16-2018, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I have 18x9+35 Enkei Rpf1's with Hankook Ventus RS 3 235/45/18 tires. Absolutely no traction in 1st or 2nd. If I punch it in 2nd @ 40 mph it will spin the tires. That's what I mean by torque monster. I'm thinking of either getting 255's or 265's.

You have 18x9 rims. You should be able to do larger tires 255/35R18 or 265/35R18. Fatty our senior mod has 275's with a 3.7L tl (Crank, rod, piston from J37A1 and Cam from J35A8 (07 TLS cams)) and he still spins the tires!
Old 04-16-2018, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ksu90
You have 18x9 rims. You should be able to do larger tires 255/35R18 or 265/35R18. Fatty our senior mod has 275's with a 3.7L tl (Crank, rod, piston from J37A1 and Cam from J35A8 (07 TLS cams)) and he still spins the tires!
Oh boy...not what I wanted to hear. I figured since these tires spin so easily are 255's through 275's going to make that much of a difference? I still have my supercharger with the high boost pulley on it sitting in my garage, so the spinning is only going to be worse once I put that back on. I wonder how ridiculous my car will look with 275's on it. I'm going to search for Fatty's post and see if he has any pics of how his car looks like.
Old 04-16-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
j35A3, 3.7 crank, rods, pistons (bored 1mm over to 90mm), J35a7 or J37a1 cams, CL-s 6 speed. Its the setup i have in mine. It will easily spin 275/35/18s in 2nd
This!
Old 02-13-2019, 05:33 PM
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There is a 70k Miles J37a1 from a 2008 MDX for $500 (Transmission $400) in the Seattle, Tacoma, Auburn Washington area if anyone wanted to make a 3.7 Type S!
Old 02-13-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ksu90
There is a 70k Miles J37a1 from a 2008 MDX for $500 (Transmission $400) in the Seattle, Tacoma, Auburn Washington area if anyone wanted to make a 3.7 Type S!
Pretty sure the J37a1 won't bolt-up to a 2G CL/TL tranny, if that is what you are implying.


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