Installed new HID kit from HIDextra today (5000K). Not too eventful. Instead of drilling a hole into the light housing, I decided to gut the old ballasts and reinstalled the half that screws to the underside of the housing. Then I just fished the new connector through the square hole in the ballast and sealed it up with clear RTV. Used a hot air gun to quickly cure the RTV and installed. My light covers were badly pitted, so I decided to try Turtle Wax's version of headlight lens restorer, to my satisfaction. Not perfect by it really got rid of 90% of the yellowing and fogginess. Total install from start to finish took about 6 hours working alone. great DIY. Thanks to all who posted this DIY!

Oh yeah, I also removed the air intake resonator. Me likey!

Steve
2002 Acura TL

 

Was something wrong with the stock ballast? You could have just swapped out the bulbs if there were no issues.

Either way, post pics man! Gratz on the feeling of satisfaction.

 

that hole in the bottem of the housing has 2 purposes
a vent for the very hot air created by the bulb operation
a drain for moisture that gets inside lens- so it doesnt fill up the housing and cause a major problem

with the new waterproof ballast from hidextra you can mount the ballast anywhere with the double stick tape and forget it

where was the clearance issue?

 

its ok to polish the headlight lens with the kit a few times, gets more each time
use claybar if you have it, removes grit before polish cleaning

when you are happy - a few coats of Synthetic car wax- its ok to use on plastic-
will seal them from future clouding and make water runoff better in rain

 

looks like 6-10 years is bulb life
and 8-10 years ballast,,which may be moisture related deaths or time and useage
One taken apart so far reported with pics--looked bad

Stradia- how were your ballast inside? actual water, rust, signs of rust?

 

One of the stock ballasts was bad, opened it up and it was burned up. I had previously did a bulb swap to verify the ballast issue, then ordered the kit.

I used the original ballast housing so I could get it to seal using the original gasket and screws. The hole I came out of is the same hole the original ballast connector used, so it isn't used to vent any heat or moisture out. It's the rectangular hole.

No clearance issue except where to mount the new ballasts. Found a good spot front facing. When I take it apart, I'll take some photos of the location.

It rained here today, and I have some moisture in one of the lights. Planning on removing caps and bulbs and using some gasket lube or gasket renew to reseal after I dry the housing out with a hot air gun.

 

but the hole the wire comes thru now- is the same place it did before-
except now you sealed it- is that correct?

 

01tl4tl, yes that is correct, same hole as before.

 

but now you sealed it so heat cant get out?

 

If the heat came out of that hole, it wouldn't get out anyway. It would just go into the original ballast box. Are you thinking of the circular vent hole that has the vent cap over it? I guess I'll have to take a photo when I have the area open again.

 

been so long since did the housing swap dont recall for sure what new ones even have!-
need to get in there and diy the new HID kit this week

 

The 5000K's are nice. What I really like about them is there doesn't seem to be hot spots on the road and they pick up reflective signs and road markers like nobody's business.

 

Soo where´s the Pics????

I ride the "I-Dont-Care-For-Performance-But-Looks" with 8Ks in Lows + Fogs they seem to light up just what I need.
I just wonder sometimes how will 5K looks in our Cars Headlights post PICS if Can!!!

If I need More bang I Have my 6Ks Highs to F***-up Darkness in every Situation.
6 HIDs Lights All-On FTMFW!

 

Skirmich, I will post pics hopefully by this weekend. Sorry for the delay. Wasn't sure it would be 'photo-worthy' as this is my first DIY project . Haha

 

In my DIY for the High Beam + Fogs are the Pictures of my HID Setup!
Take a Look if you Want!

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-high-beam-fogs-mod-802817/

They are 8K Fogs + Low Beams
And 6K High Beams < they look Impressive when they are All On in the Night!

 

you can see reflecto paint in things with the 5000k,,the stock 4300 were not so good at that
6k loses some white light beam on the ground to see road with..had them and went 5s now
8k you must have great vision,,, or dont care whats in front of you!

what the total amp draw with all the HID lights burning?

reminder to new bulb owners- they need about 50 hours burn in time to reach full brightness and color stabilizes,,drive with them ON all the time to get them working 100%

most cameras have a problem with color rendering on hids due to white balance control in camera

 

hahaha Actually I didnt see a Difference between Stock 4300K Vs 8000K at All Since My stock Bulbs were dimm as Hell when I bought the TL
So I cant complaint about Light Output... My 8K Also reflect Road Signs right away but with a Little Bluish hint tough.

I dont see why they say 8K Is BLUE since when they lit they seem like an upper tone just a bit more bluish than 6K But not in the Extremes of 12K (Super Blue).
(In the Actual ROAD There´s No difference in Color between my 8Ks and 6K but It does on the Headlight itself I think because the Shield in the Low Beam)

OK I measure the Voltage but not the Actual AMP draw Here I need a Voltimeter

(Car OFF)
12.8V < Stock Volt with car Shut, Battery Cold
12.4V < Voltage after 6 HID Lights all On (Nothing Else).

(Car ON)
14.5V < Nothing On (No HU/Sub or A/C nor Lights)
14.4V < All Lights On + Everything Else.

I have to Buy a Decent Voltimeter I dunno why I dont have even a Cheap Autozone one lol..... I saw a Fluke for Dirt Cheap in a Pawn Shop once but I instead bought something else hehehe...

 

Well, three days into my new HID install and the driver side light has a beautiful pink/orange glow. Anyone know what the cause of this can be???

 

might be defect bulb
contact seller right away!!

 

I was interested in how many amps each bulb was actually pulling when running
the car has certain needs for ignition etc that might be affected by massive draw

looking to convert bike to HID to reduce load, to add more lights-- while staying within the very low 12 amp at idle to 28 amps freeway cruise...the bike alt outputs to a 16 amp battery

iirc we have 105 amp alt? so you have to total the draw of each thing running- the fuse size gives you an idea
ampmeter not voltmeter is needed

 

Yeah, sent HIDExtra an e-mail this morning. I have not been able to find a number for them.

 

Never mind - found a number

 

on their webpage... for others looking at this in the future

 

LoL I Counted EVERY Fuse in the Manual our Entire Car System Requirements would be:

1250A +/-
For Every Fuse in the Car!
Minus Canadian DRL (7.5A) and Canadian NAV DRL (10A) count them if you Live in Canada!

Our OEM Alternators are:
110A for the TL-P
120A for the TL-S

We are a Little Short about 1100A out of Alternator hehehe

I think they are really Rough Estimates in a Perfect World our ECU system takes no More PERHAPS than 15-20A when its Fuse Call for a 60A one.
Add Coils System they are Counted as One in The Fuses and it needs a 15A I would say it consumes less than 8-10A.
Heck!!!
Would you think our OEM HU call for a 20A Fuse???
My 7" DVD Kenwood has a 7A Fuse...



Ohh! I sayed Voltimeter cuz most Modern ones came with a Bunch of other "Meters" in Them so I count the Ampemeter on it! hehehe I need one to Properly Take out the AMP Charge for the entire New HIDs Add Ons...

 

and you cannot run the TL with every single item in operation - at idle especially
Just running both seat heats on High at idle is against the book !!

so what I meant was a 20 amp fuse is probably a 15 amp circuit useage

 

HIDExtra does not answer their support phone, it just keeps you in an endless loop. They encourage you to contact them via e-mail with any support issues, which I have done. Last week they responded very quickly, but have not heard from them since last Thursday. Why can't companies just answer the phone???

 

call the sales phone...with the ecomony..might be 1 guy does the support email
and only works 4 days a week,,just coming back to work to find your message

there have been some reports in the past, their support can be slow,,but sales will help you out
remind them you came from acurazine

 

Okay, got my replacement bulbs yesterday, and installed them in about 15 minutes last night. Look good initially, so we'll see how they work out. Finally got rid of the "pink eye".

 

remember they need ~50 hours `burn in` time to get full color and brightness levels

drive with lights ON all the time to get the hours--- increases your safety too!

 

10-4 on that 01tl4tl

 

What are the best headlights? like performance and looks wise?

 

welcome to the forum,,are you currently a 99-2003 TL owner?

have a look thru the thread titles in the different sections- most questions are already there!
are you talking about replacing the bulbs for the HID low beam,,or adding HID kit to the highs or fogs? color choices..all this has been discussed many times

 

Yes I own a 2G TL 3.2L but acurazine wont let me upload pics yet, and thanks.

 

I always wondered why the headlights on the Acura TL look peach in color or pinkish. So akward. Anyone know. Also can I change to new OEM bulbs and take care of this problem? Or any aftermarket HID bulbs that are compatible and look bluer in color or white?

 

you have dieing bulbs if they are that color!
there are many bulb threads- please look around
4300K (kelvin color scale) is stock
many use 5000k for more blue