HELP:: installing new spark plugs
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10th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
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From: OC
HELP:: installing new spark plugs
I just bought new NGK Iridium IX's for my 03 TL-S and I want to install them this weekend 
I've searched and searched for a DIY to install spark plugs, and I think I remember seeing one before... but I can't find it now!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated... tools needed, procedure, etc.
I've searched and searched for a DIY to install spark plugs, and I think I remember seeing one before... but I can't find it now!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated... tools needed, procedure, etc.
yea there was a detailed explanation to do it but since the upgrade theres no chance on finding anything using search
its pretty simple, the front three are easy u need 3in and 6in socket extension, take the coil off, take out the plug, insert new one, repeat
i recommend u buy a pen magnet like this to get the plugs out:
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/images/magnet_pen.gif
made things so much easier, especially in the rear since it didnt want to stay on the socket
good luck
its pretty simple, the front three are easy u need 3in and 6in socket extension, take the coil off, take out the plug, insert new one, repeat
i recommend u buy a pen magnet like this to get the plugs out:
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/images/magnet_pen.gif
made things so much easier, especially in the rear since it didnt want to stay on the socket
good luck
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 4
From: Wichita, KS
or if you've got one you could use a simple spark plug socket.....its extra deep and has a rubber washer in the bottom to grab the end so you can pull it. i believe the allen key needed to remove the eletrical over the socket(what's that call again?) is 6mm.
you may want to look into some anti-sieze compound too. those threads are very valuable to you and it would be a bad thing to break off a plug in there later.
you may want to look into some anti-sieze compound too. those threads are very valuable to you and it would be a bad thing to break off a plug in there later.
DO NOT CHECK THE GAP ON THE PLUGS!!! THEY ARE PERFECT AND DO NOT NEED GAPPING.
use the allen wrench to take out the coils, use your socket with an extension to loosen the plugs, slide a rubber hose down there (buy it from autozone), and viola. repeat the steps backwards and your done. DO NOT overtighten the plugs, be very gentle and you shouldnt have a problem
use the allen wrench to take out the coils, use your socket with an extension to loosen the plugs, slide a rubber hose down there (buy it from autozone), and viola. repeat the steps backwards and your done. DO NOT overtighten the plugs, be very gentle and you shouldnt have a problem
DO NOT CHECK THE GAP ON THE PLUGS!!! THEY ARE PERFECT AND DO NOT NEED GAPPING.
use the allen wrench to take out the coils, use your socket with an extension to loosen the plugs, slide a rubber hose down there (buy it from autozone), and viola. repeat the steps backwards and your done. DO NOT overtighten the plugs, be very gentle and you shouldnt have a problem
use the allen wrench to take out the coils, use your socket with an extension to loosen the plugs, slide a rubber hose down there (buy it from autozone), and viola. repeat the steps backwards and your done. DO NOT overtighten the plugs, be very gentle and you shouldnt have a problem
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
The TL plugs come with the super fine wire, and are NOT able to be gapped with a standard gauge/tool
As long as the cardboard end cap is in place on th eplug when you open the box, just visually inspect plug for flattened electrode- if not, its good to go as is!
NGK is really good about this.
Change tips: use a 3 and 6 inch extension for the rear plugs, you may have to lower the socket and 3 inch into the hole first for access room, then attach the next extension and ratchet.
Use a rubber hose (vacuum tubing) slipped on the top end of the new plug to lower it in the hole-- and start the threads by fingertip feel- you dont want to cross-thread the plugs!!! thats bad news~
I suggest do a front to learn where and how it all fits together
Then the rears - then the easy fronts to finish the job
Tightening direction on box for hand method or torque to 13 foot pounds
Change plugs with engine cold only!!- aluminum threads- temp changes- incorrrect torque---
As long as the cardboard end cap is in place on th eplug when you open the box, just visually inspect plug for flattened electrode- if not, its good to go as is!
NGK is really good about this.
Change tips: use a 3 and 6 inch extension for the rear plugs, you may have to lower the socket and 3 inch into the hole first for access room, then attach the next extension and ratchet.
Use a rubber hose (vacuum tubing) slipped on the top end of the new plug to lower it in the hole-- and start the threads by fingertip feel- you dont want to cross-thread the plugs!!! thats bad news~
I suggest do a front to learn where and how it all fits together
Then the rears - then the easy fronts to finish the job
Tightening direction on box for hand method or torque to 13 foot pounds
Change plugs with engine cold only!!- aluminum threads- temp changes- incorrrect torque---
This is straight from NGK's website:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
3. Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
I do have one question, at about 2 pm I took a 10 minute drive to the parts store, was in the store for 10-15 mins, and then a 10 minute drive back. How long do I need to wait for the engine to cool before installing plugs?
Alright well I just switched out my plugs. Idle is much better and response is seemingly a little bit better also. My car has a little bit less than 55,000 miles. Here are some pics of my old plugs:
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,348
Likes: 33
From: Louisville, KY
This is straight from NGK's website:
Quote:
3. Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
Quote:
3. Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: montreal
when do you know when to change your spark plugs???? do you have to wait to a certain amount of miles....or do you jus change it when ever you want... i changed mine and they came out the same as AMgala did and im only at 50k miles.....
working on it!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bean Town
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, Ca
Man ! Those look pretty bad. I have 105k on my TL-S and I am just about to replace the spark plug. Not sure how they will look compare to this one. I should find out soon.
Timing belt and water pump are done.
Timing belt and water pump are done.
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