This evening I started the installation of my headers and high flow cat. However I have run into two problems. The first is simple, how do I get he nut off the far on the far left of the front exhaust manifold, the one hidden behind the alternator (here)? My socket wrench/socket with vise grips wouldn't fit down in there.
Also, on the J-pipe, how do I remove the hanger? It seems to be stuck on there, unless I use a hack saw or bolt cutters.

Attached pictures: https://i.imgur.com/iHcC1.jpg

 

Fixed my own issues. Used a hack saw on the hanger and unplugged the alternator. Now if only I could get the read exhaust manifold to somehow fit between the engine and the huge metal bar going over the top of it

 

Did anyone else have troubles getting the rear header to clear the rear motor mount? DC sport hc5528 on a 2000 TL

 

Nope mine fit just fine. Great product.

 

OHHHH DUDE FITTING THE REAR HEADER??? Your in for a Joyride!!
Long Story Short: I almost ended up Un-bolting the Subframe....



BUT FYI: Some people had the bad Luck of Getting 2 Front Headers in their Kits from DC. If you got one with Clones it wont clear the Rear Mount in any way shape or form. Call DC if the Problem persist they will help you out.

In my Experience it was just PITA to fit my rear Header but it ended up fitting just right.

 

Before installing new headers determine which is front and which is rear by setting J pipe on a bench in the direction it goes on. Then hold the headers onto the j pipe an see which lines up correctly in what spot. You could just have them reversed.

 

Of The 3 sets of DCs i have installed i HAD to remove the rear mount on 2 of them. I think there are slight variations on the DC headers that require it.

 

I did line them up to the j-pipe, I had them correct. Besides the flange, is there anyway to tell the front from the rear? I have the rear motor mount loose but not off yet. Would it be easier to loosen the the other mounts and jack up the engine (I tried jacking up the engine with only the rear mount undone, whole subframe lifted with it), or is unbolting the sub frame the only way out?
I dont want to have to pull it to the shop.

 

Make sure you have the bolts out for the rear mount then w a block of wood on the jack, jack right on the parting line between motor and trans. It will come up without unbolting anything else. I guess I didn't have this problem during my install cause I was replacing rear motor mount so I pulled it off w factory headers. Just don't go ape shit and you'll be alright. You get about an inch of travel or so which gives plenty clearance to just get the mount unbolted and slid towards driver side. Taking it completely out shouldn't be necessary. Good luck and keep us all posted!

 

I wasnt replacing my Rear Mount so it was a ROYAL PITA! I actually had to Support the Engine and Remove the Rear Mount to fit my Rear Header that was my Trick It was completely Unnecessary but I was there for like 4 hours and the damn Rear Header wasnt fitting soo What the Heck I said...




Yay! Post 1300!

 

^



ibsomeonewithhigherpostsdoessamethingtome


lol

 

hahahahaha

 

Got it all to fit. Test drive was awesome!
I had to unbolt the engine mount and the black mount it's on. Then jack up the trans/engine to put the header on.
Thanks everyone for the help!