DIY: Seafoam 2nd GEN TL (sorta) work in progress

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Old 08-22-2008, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ace2525
7)Change my spark plugs because I have 76K and havent changed them yet

I have 102k on my spark plugs and as far as I know they are the originals. I plan on changing them at 105k like the book says.
Old 08-22-2008, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ace2525
also what is the TB butterfly plate that I'm suppose to spray?
Take off the stock intake tubing or CAI/SRI if you have it. The butterfly plate is the plate you see if you look into the engine where the intake was. Pull on the throttle cable and the butterfly valve will open. While the car is running, you spray into the intake and all over that plate/valve to clean it off. You don't need to get on the throttle that much, just enough to prevent the engine from stalling while slowly introducing the Deep Creep.

Originally Posted by ace2525
Check engine light was on, just took out fuse 13 and reset it, hopefully it doesnt come back on. Do I need to keep driving it around? I drove it probably 10 miles down to the gas station and to pep boys to get spark plugs...
Check engine light is normal and should go away after a reset. The key is to go for a HOT drive. You need to do several runs all the way through 1st 2nd and 3rd gear to get the Seafoam hot and burn everything off. Just cruising around the neighborhood to the store isn't going to cut it here. You need a back road/interstate to go on (while being careful).
Old 08-22-2008, 07:27 PM
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yes my post #149 has correct vac port on front side of TB connection to intake manifold- you need to remove the plastic engine cover to access it easily

To clean TB butterfly plate- You can shoot deep creep thru the rubber snout tube- open the air filter box- lift top- with engine running, shoot seafoam spray into tube towards engine. Carb cleaner or TB cleaner works for this part of the job too.
Thats if you dont want to remove all the stuff to get the rubber snout tube off for a direct view of the TB plate.

With engine cover off, you can clean and lube the throttle return springs- guess what works well there- deep creep. That will also improve throttle feel and response for you

The hot drive: 10 minutes to warm the engine and cat is essential-
adding stuff slowly is important
wait 10-15 minutes max and then start engine- soon as its stable go drive it!
and the hot foot: 4000 rpm 2nd gear 10 minutes after seafoam drive-
then hit the freeway for some runs into vtec and slow down- then vtec and down- vtec and down
Thats going to give the best results

1st timers should repeat vac port and 1 can in 1/2 tank of gas in a month or 2000 miles, then good for a year- when done correctly
CEL means you didn't get it hot- and keep it hot- then blow it out...
so some crud got stuck on the O2 sensor in the exhaust.

You dont reset it!!!!- you clean the sensor by driving it- within a day or 2 it will clear, so you know the problem is gone
Old 08-22-2008, 07:31 PM
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runner- the plugs are losing power after 60-70k, so changing them now will start saving you in gas money by running at 100%-
plugs are 50 bucks for 6 pack of NGK Iridium IX- thats the good plugs for gen2 TL
With a seafoam clean engine and new plugs, its like an extra ~free~ gallon (or more) of gas in the tank--- each time you fillup!
Old 08-22-2008, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
With engine cover off, you can clean and lube the throttle return springs- guess what works well there- deep creep. That will also improve throttle feel and response for you
Hmm I might have to try this
Old 08-23-2008, 01:01 AM
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I got the some NGK spark plugs that were on sale for $2.09 a piece so it was only $13 or so...no expensive ones needed as my sparks that were on before are even cheaper and they were fine with 77k.
Old 08-23-2008, 09:07 AM
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Iridium IX?
Old 08-23-2008, 11:17 AM
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ace- your car should have come with NGK Platinum plugs from the factory
The approved BRANDS are ngk and denso
The factory plug is NGK Platinum- many ziners go with the NGK Iridium, for its superior metal and firing power.
A basic spark plug with a wide metal piece on it is NOT for the TL
Our baby requires a special super fine single wire to properly use the hi-energy ignition system
This is not your dads old beater chevy!!!!

The correct plugs are just under 7 bucks each regular price.
Old 08-23-2008, 06:16 PM
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I know...there the V-power NGK's...the guy at pep boys typed my car/model into the system and it comes up with a list of compatible plugs, there definitely fine for the Acura.
Old 08-23-2008, 06:21 PM
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Not so- just because the place that looked up heat range and tip length, and cross referanced it all into a computer lookup for plugs that match those needs-
that does NOT mean those plugs are actually GOOD to use
On the other hand:
If you get a huge mileage increase on those plugs, then maybe you found something that will help all of us. Please keep track over a few months and compare- thanks!
Old 08-23-2008, 06:22 PM
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you noticed the differance in the stock platinum ngk and the V power- the side metal electrode to the tip, and the size of the tip itself?
Old 08-23-2008, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
you noticed the differance in the stock platinum ngk and the V power- the side metal electrode to the tip, and the size of the tip itself?
wait what??? I just went to Pep Boys and he put my car/model in and came up with many different options...i told him to pick what he reccommends under $5 each and he gave me the v-power 2262..could this be wrong?
Old 08-24-2008, 05:40 AM
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well- lets just say that not a lot of ziners are reporting use of v power plugs

Shell v power gas we love though!

You gave the guy a 5 dollar limit- so he gave you the plugs in that price range!

If you asked for the correct stock plugs- you would have gotten NGK Patinum
Upgraded would be NGK Iridium IX

IMO- those are NOT the plugs for the TL, go back and get the spec plugs!
Old 08-24-2008, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
IMO- those are NOT the plugs for the TL, go back and get the spec plugs!
I would think Acura wouldn't 'spec' another brand of oil filter, air filter, brake pad, etc., etc.- other than what came on the car from them..... so if another plug has a decent reputation, lasts comparably, performs well, and provides comparable gas mileage, it should be fine. If he was to suddenly get a mileage increase with those, they still wouldn't be 'spec' plugs--

Last edited by totaledTL; 08-24-2008 at 12:53 PM.
Old 08-24-2008, 03:36 PM
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So will the NGK V-power ZFR5F-11 spark plugs work in my 99 TL ???
Old 08-24-2008, 08:16 PM
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You are the test pilot for the Vpower to my knowledge- try a search for them here and see if anyone a few years ago did it

- if the mileage goes up and the plugs last 50-75k miles...then we have a new option. The super fine wire is supposed to be a big deal, there are ziners who really know plugs can tell you more about that being real or marketing.
I am guessing it has to do with the indivual coil on spark plug ignition, and the voltage and resistance variable gonkulations required

Acura says Denso or NGK are approved and gives the plug number- which tell the heat range- plug depth and length of inner core, the gen2 TL it came with NGK Platinum stock (gen3 NGK Iridium stock)
so they dont only say `use what we installed`.
Filters are far different issue than the spark plugs.
I worked too many years in the parts and service industry- where do you think I learned all this insider stuff!
Old 08-24-2008, 09:16 PM
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The ref. to filters was just an example, like the brake pads, pick any part... Acura is going to say use OEM- But... your experience (as well as others) w/ brakes indicates there are other (and in ref. to brakes, better) parts out there than OEM 'spec' parts. Just an observation, nothing more.
I'm not trying to discount your experience or knowledge. I appreciate it.
Old 08-24-2008, 11:50 PM
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alright, i'll test em out. I'm going to be driving up to school Wednesday and its a 3 hours drive so I'll see how I do mileage wise
Old 08-25-2008, 01:35 PM
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changed my mind last minute and returned the NGK V-powers for Bosch Platinum Plus #4030. Decided I wanted platinum and it was only $1 more per plug ($3.09/each). Anybody on this forum have these plugs, are they good? Guess I'll let you know if I notice anything different on my drive up to school Wednesday...
Old 08-25-2008, 04:10 PM
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Now THAT was a major effup
Bosh are proven to melt! TOTALLY wrong plugs for the TL ,
What part of NGK Platinum or NGK Iridium and being the correct plug for the TL?!


but hey its your car, save a buck now and spend a lot more in gas till you do it right-
what do I know about these cars anyway
Old 08-25-2008, 06:08 PM
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Wow, proven to melt?! Are they that bad?
Old 08-25-2008, 06:48 PM
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they are fine plugs in a BMW
but not designed the same as a the plugs you took out stock from the TL correct?
massive electrodes and such?
while stock had a super fine wire???
Old 08-26-2008, 12:04 AM
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ohh that sucks...yea the Bosch come to a point like the stocks but its white not silver point...and the NGK v-power was silver but didnt come to a point at all. Guy didn't have the NGK Platinums which is what the same as stock and there are not many car places in my area...guess ill just see if my mileage changes at all, if not i dont care about them.
Old 08-26-2008, 05:55 AM
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The wire from the side of the plug to the center is what I am talking about- plus the shape of the tip as you noticed

Most parts stores that carry ngk will have every ngk plug thats common item- like the Platinums or Iridiums- iridium is better metal and used stock in gen3, perfectly accepted in the gen2
Old 08-26-2008, 11:31 AM
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Guess I will be trying to prove you wrong then cause there in my car and not coming out until I have problems...I will report back eventually...
Old 08-29-2008, 07:25 PM
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No smoke after seafoam

no smoke after pouring the 1/3 seafoam to the correct vac line near the throttle last night, anything wrong?
Old 08-30-2008, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TLRHD
no smoke after pouring the 1/3 seafoam to the correct vac line near the throttle last night, anything wrong?
No same thing happened to me, probably means its clean...

So while driving up to school i drove 208 miles and have a little over a half a tank. I don't think the spark plug change affected my mileage at all....

also I got a speeding ticket on I-87 in NY on my way up...84 in a 65. I pleaded not guilty and am going to reschedule the court date a few times (hopefully the cop does not show when I eventually go & it will be dismissed). Quick question for those that have gotten a speeding ticket in NY, what do you say in court if the cop does show up? Do you completely deny speeding or should I just be apologetic and say I was excited to get to school and wasn't paying attention. (P.S. he radared me from real far away & I saw Laser on my detector but it was too late, I took the radar down before he saw) & its my first ticket!
Old 08-30-2008, 06:23 PM
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Radar/detectors are illegal in only 2 places in the US: Virginia and Washington DC. I drive in both and keep the detector on at all times, simply pulling it down & out of sight when an officer is nearby. Virginia used/uses detector detectors, but they cannot detect the Valentine from any realistic distance.

At your court appearance, if the police officer is not present, plead not guilty. You don't have to say anything else because without the officer, there is no evidence. Plus, the judges get annoyed when the officers do not show up or are late. I've watched a judge start calling cases promptly when the second hand on the wall clock showed 9:00:00 AM, dismissing every case that she called until the officer showed up at 9:04:00 AM. Unfortunate for me, she didn't get to me in the 1st 4 minutes. Ultimately, it didn't matter as I won my case anyway.

FYI - the police officers schedule court a day in court well in advance. I am guessing about 1 month intervals since they basically spend the day there.
Old 08-30-2008, 06:29 PM
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A; Seafoam and smoke has been discussed a million times- you either didnt get the engine and cat warmed up first, or you still believe that 1/3 of a can is enough- and you used liquid seafoam and put it in pretty fast instead of seafoam spray version DEEP CREEP.

You said POURING in seafoam- if you used the correct vac port-it sucks it out of the can, thru a hose you attached to that vac nipple!
To reach: remove engine cover and its across from the throttle assembly- a large vac hose with squeeze clamp covering a 1 inch long metal nipple-
Old 08-30-2008, 06:34 PM
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On court-
the Officer usually schedules all their court dates on a day off- so they get paid an extra day to go to court
If they no show- you win - keep your mouth shut!
If they show- you say not guilty and give your side-didnt know limit- new to area student- no tickets before...

the judge ask the cop for their side- judge knows this to be the local speed trap and this officer never gets it wrong....you lose
Old 09-04-2008, 12:57 AM
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im sorry but i still dont get how to do this. i dont know where to start and go from? sorry im a newbie at this would someone please pm me on how to do this from start to the end
Old 09-04-2008, 02:24 PM
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:33 PM
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it seems like on page 1 it jumps steps. i dont even know where to start and what to do. sorry im new at this. i might be just dumb to.
Old 09-06-2008, 01:15 AM
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go to post #147 by me, it wil lshow the correct vac port to use- get the Deep Creep spray cn for that
read the first page for basic directions, or search my name and seafoam for everything you want to know
See the other seafoam diy- for 03 TL, its got good info
Old 09-08-2008, 01:43 PM
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I bought my '03 TL used at 82k and now its at 85k and don't know what the previous owner did with it. So I decided to seafoam it. Used 1 can in tank a month ago and the mpg went up by 1-2 miles in the city.

Then I decided to go for the vac port. Used Deep Creep in the vac port over the weekend. Got some white smoke when I was spraying the stuff in. And after a 15 min break, when I started the car it puffed, threw out some gray color smoke and felt jittery for the first few 20 seconds of driving. Then I did the 4k rpm in 2nd and 3nd for a few minutes, multiple hits to vtec and slow down and all that was suggested. After a few minutes the engine started sounding much nicer. MUCH MUCH BETTER throttle response now and a much smoother ride. My car seemed to have sorta delayed and weak acceleration before seafoaming which is gone now. It almost feels like a new car and I am loving it.

Thinking of replacing the spark plugs to NGK Iridium IX in a couple of weeks along with air filter change to K&N and I am sure that this baby will keep me happy for quite some time.

Only problem is that the CEL light is on, so I am just waiting for it to go away by itself in a few days.

Thanks to everyone for the detailed steps on how to get it done.
Old 09-08-2008, 05:50 PM
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so im only suppose to put it 1 can in my vac line and 1 can in the gas and 1 can in the oil right?
Old 09-08-2008, 06:03 PM
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1 can in 1/2 tank of gas for max cleaning effect
! can Deep Creep in vac port for engine at the TB
1/2 can for engine oil just before change time, put the rest in the gas for the lawn mower, motorcycle, the TL gas tank~

Repeat vac and gas in methods in ~2000 miles, a month or so,
then you're set for a year
Clean the throttle springs and lube them with Deep Creep too !
Old 09-08-2008, 06:08 PM
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CEL usually clears in 1-2 days of driving. Odd that its on,, you seem to have followed the burn off drive directions EXCEPT perhaps the warm up time??

Did you do 4000 rpm for about 10 minutes-- to get the exhaust really cooking hot?
And then the full throttle from slow speed 2nd gear to vtec runs?
That will usually blast everything out
Getting it good and hot at 4000 rpm- that wont hurt the engine at all--is the key to a excellent result

CEL is often crud got stuck on the O2 sensor and burns off- we have a sensor before and after the cat, so its really important to make heat!!
Old 09-08-2008, 06:11 PM
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prash- see the DIY on remove lower intake resonator--works great with the K&N- provides an open pathway for air direct to the air filter box,
and doesnt have the water injestion risk of a CAI setup
Old 09-08-2008, 06:11 PM
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so i just did this and to be honest i can not tell a difference what so ever. It took about 2 minutes to suck up all the seafoam. left it for 10 minutes off started it no white smoke came out until i revved it. then took it for a little drive at wot i even redlinned it a couple times. No difference at all i feel like it was a waste of money on both seafoam and the insane amount of gas i spent on my spirited drive. one question if not much white smoke comes out does that mean the engine was already pretty clean?


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