Been thinking about adding displacement for cheap. I can source a good J35A3 for under 300 bucks, or I can build a 3.6L.

My question is this, what would I need to do for an ECM to handle the extra air? Can an MDX ECU be swapped in or would the whole manual shift be messed up? I'd like not to have to hack something in and if it's straight forward just swap engine, then I will.

 

Getting close to 10K on my 3.5 swap with stock ECU with no problems. If your S-type swap your cams, and mill the head unless your boosting in the future (.020" = .5:1 compression increase) equivalent to stroking your J32A2 and cost less then $100 to mill both heads. Also a good time to gasket match the intake tract and through on a header. The only way I would swap ECU's would be to go tune-able.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, the J35A3 swap was the best thing done to the TL yet! After buying a complete J35A3, cams & springs, headers, head work & milling, plus gaskets and misc I have about $1200 and a 40-50 hrs of work in the garage collectively.

 

Sounds good. Turns out I just scored some free j35a8 cams, which aren't the best, but still have more lift in the low end. I have a spare set of j35A4 heads, so now I debating on just building the heads and doing a head swap. This is supposed to be a DD until I get the racecar running.


What has your gas mileage been with the J35?

 

J35A8 cams are good bro (just need to shim the cam gears couple mm)! Not real sure about the J35A4 heads I know they have smaller valves. Both the J32A2 or J35A3 heads there the same casting. You can mill the heads and clean up & gasket match the runners on the cheap. Next step valve job, they don't need any real seat or bowl work. Not sure what your current engine is but if your J32A2 I would mill .020" that will bring you to the 11:1 compression that the J35A8 cams are designed to run at, If you go J35A3 mill .030" that will get you close at 10.75:1 but you can still get your cams in time with out buying or modding gears.

If you don't wanna use the J35A8 cams let me know. I've got a cam re-grinder that's 15min from my house I'd like to take a couple cams down and get them mapped, would take a lot of the guess work out.

Mileage went up on the hwy 3-4 MPG around town the same (kinda worse cause you wanna use that new power your making!!!!)

 

I have a TL-P, so just the J32A1 for me.
I mis-typed the cam codes. They are from a J35A9.
The j35A4 heads have same casting as the j32a1/2. The intake valves are 35mm.

Lot of ideas floating around in my head right now.

 

If your TL-p then definitely get the J35A3!!!! The J32A1 is not worth messing with.

The J35A4 cams are going to be real close to the cams in the J35A3, the MDX made more power (note: J35A3 & J32A1 use the same cam)

 

If your just wanting something to beat around in for little $$$ and if it were mine here's the formula I would use:

-J35A3 $300ish
-mill heads $75
-gasket match $30- $100 (for material doing it your self)
-gaskets head, rear main, ect $150ish (fix any thing leaking)
-header $260 (single flex joint)
-bolts for IM W/O spacer $20
-timing set $200 (if needed)
-piece together 3.5" CIA $100

TOTAL $1205 (that's figuring high)

I really feel like I could do one on the cheap for around $900 installed.

The J32A1 is rated at 225hp and 190 lb-ft
Stock J35A3 rated 240hp and 252 lb-ft


Milled head and matched intake tract w/ header & CAI 5% - 10% increase on top of the stock J35A3 numbers. Yes those are at the crank not the wheels, but that will get you a bit more HP than a J32A2 and quite a bite more torque using your current ECU.

 

I've seen some cheap 2nd gen TL-S' around town lately and I've been tempted to get one and throw in a J35A3. Maybe sell the CL and swap some of my CL mods over. Would love to have 4 doors, but can't give up the manual and have no interest in a 6speed swap.

 

Pick one up with a dead trans for $1000- $ 1500 drop in a AV6 with a cheap build J35A3. I would definitely drop in some cams if its the type S (J32A2, J35A8, or J37A1 cams). The torque is were its at!!!! Just normal driving is better, don't have to get on it hard to make it go.


Off topic G-nuts weren't you running an after market TB? Wondering where to hook up the purge valve or if it can be deleted?

 

^ that would be the plan. There's a black type s with blown tranny, I'm sure I could get it for 1G. So tempting. If I needed another car it would be done. 3.5 TL-S with supercharger? .

I sold the TB because it would be too hard to get a vacuum reading after the TB plate because of the s/c. Do you mean the IAC? I used a p2r adaptor for the iac. That you can screw in nipples to to run you vacuum lines.

 

3.5 TL-S would be bad ass, considering my 3.5 is not far of from SC3.2, should have comparable dyno runs in a few weeks. put some HR OE springs for a small drop and run wide tires cause your gonna need it!

I've got the IAC part figured out, wondering about the line that bolts to the top of the TB for the purge control valve by the fire wall(every one bitches about it ticking). Figured I would hook it up to a vacuum source but would love to delete it.

 

I just can't give up the 6speed, but I would love 4 doors. I would probably swap over the s/c and tune the thing since it would be auto it can be done easily. I've been crunching numbers and I think I could swap parts from the CL, sell the CL and have a beastly 3.5s/c TL-S.

Couldn't you throw a nipple on your intake instead? I can't remember what the purge does but something with fuel vapors? then they would still be burnt off.

 

Would a type s ecu show a bit better performance with the swap? Would the ecu trip check engine light if the manifold actuator is gone?

 

I currently have a 3.7L crank and rods. I can get a J35A4 (odyssey) engine for around 100 bucks. So I'm thinking:

J35A4 block
J37 crank and rods
CL-S pistons
Polished heads (J35A4- 35mm intake valves)
J35A4 Intake Manifold
OE exhaust manifolds going to custom piping (stealthy and retain heat sheilds)
CL-S cams

I think I can do all this for 500-700. I can do all work myself, build the engine on the side and quick Saturday swap. Would this be worth it?

I've already swapped in a 07 AV6 trans with 80k and switched to AMSoil fluid. Replaced the front end suspension components, H&R springs, 225/50 R17 tires, so chassis wise it's fine. I just want a little more power, this is a cruiser for the family. I have a Galant Vr4 with a full build for racing. So I don't need much.

I also have a set of J35A4 heads with the 35mm intake valves, if I picked up a set of CL-S cams polished the heads and swapped the heads on, would I feel a difference? I'd open up the exhaust, but no headers at this time.

 

If you want to stay under 1K it's not gonna happen swapping in a 3.7 crank unless you already have crank & rod bearing, rings & cls pistons. Plus you will need more cam than the CL-S it's at it limit on the 3.5. Personally would not want to do more than a 3.5 without Type-S ECU and all other supporting mods.

Yes TL-s ECU will give better performance it has a higher red line and better maps. You will also need the engine harness and probably cluster. It will not through a code deleting the butterfly valve and you can hook up a jumper for the VSA TB.

Keeping you budget under a grand, start with a healthy 35 (J35A3 preferably got mine around $300) or J35A4. Mill the heads .030", gasket match from head through the IM, drop in the CL-S cams, XS power sport or other knock off header sub $260 shipped and a timing set for reliability. TL-S ecu, harness & cluster would be helpful but not necessary.

 

With the type-s ecu why is an engine harness needed?

 

I may not, I started with an 03TL-s. I know the J32A1 did not have the IM butterfly valve and they may not use a knock sensor either(not sure). So a harness my not be needed, honestly cant say for sure.