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03 acura tl type s full exhaust from intake manifold back
Looking to see what you people have done to cars, price not really an issue. What have you guys done from intake manifold back? Thanks any links would help
Since this is a topic/technical issue which will require replies and discussion, this thread has been moved from the New Member Introductions forum to the model specific forum for better response.
I literally just got my p2r headers yesterday. They are custom made and the inlet ports are the max diameter for the cyl head. 3" outlet. .I have 3" single trubendz pipe from the cat back to a hks hiflow muffler. 4.5" tip. once I do the 3.5L stroker, its going to be 3" header back. idk what you mean by int manifold back, but p2r is prob the best you can get off the shelf without welding the pipe yourself.
What's up guys, I've got the 2003 Type S and I'm looking for a cold air intake. I found I couple I like but they say they fit the Non Type S. Are these comparable? Can I use an intake that is for the Non Type S? I've done a complete tune up and just trying to make the engine run as good and strong as possible without turbo. I have looked all over the net and haven't found the answer to the question about the compatibility of the Type's.... Any help would be awesome and also ideas that I can do myself to make the car fast, sound even better than it already does and just have a fun rude to drive when I need to get some frustration out. Thanks
Yoi say swap it, I'm just trying to make sure the non type fits the type s before I order it. Do you know if they are compatable?
No, the type-s throttle body comes out a little further.. if I remember, you need to chop off a few inches on the intake pipe on the non type-s and add port for the vacuum line.
I literally just got my p2r headers yesterday. They are custom made and the inlet ports are the max diameter for the cyl head. 3" outlet. .I have 3" single trubendz pipe from the cat back to a hks hiflow muffler. 4.5" tip. once I do the 3.5L stroker, its going to be 3" header back. idk what you mean by int manifold back, but p2r is prob the best you can get off the shelf without welding the pipe yourself.
gasket matched
You get this installed? Curious how it turned out, how hard it was to install, etc? Thinking of this for my '03 Type-S
You get this installed? Curious how it turned out, how hard it was to install, etc? Thinking of this for my '03 Type-S
You have probably already seen this on P2R's website regarding fitment?
'P2R J-Swap Big Tube Headers features 1.75" Primaries merged into 2.5" center section, and finally merged into a 3.0" outlet. Full 304 stainless steel and polished. Includes 3" flex pipe for the start of your exhaust system as well as a 02 bung. This header is designed as a race swap header. Fitment will vary on some vehicles. It does not come as a direct bolt on to your current exhaust system. You will need to go to a fabricator or muffler shop to connect the v-band to your exhaust to finalize the installation of the header.
Notes: For 99-03 Acura TL, 01-03 Acura CL, and 98-02 Accord V6. This header clears the sub-frame; however, due to the increased size of the tubing. It sits very close. Vehicles with old or worn engine mounts might cause the header to hit the sub-frame. So use of good mounts and/or sub-frame notching is recommended.'
You get this installed? Curious how it turned out, how hard it was to install, etc? Thinking of this for my '03 Type-S
No, I've been really busy with work and the little spare time I have, has gone to wiring work on my 6GA 4cyl to 6cyl conversion project. Haven't done much besides test fit the top section of headers. My CLS rear bracket does make slight contact with one pipe. So I plan to notch it a bit.
AT rear bracket shouldn't have this problem. I did follow the recommendation that P2R provides and ordered some 75A mounts from swap shop. Used 5%off code, but still about $300. rear header with cls 6mt bracket comparison to stock manifold
Looking great! Is it necessary for an engine removal on a old tl when doing the headers? only replaced a set on a old trans am, much bigger engine bay.
Looking great! Is it necessary for an engine removal on a old tl when doing the headers? only replaced a set on a old trans am, much bigger engine bay.
Had the motor out to change bodies. This set has larger pipes than some. The rear was able to slide in with the strut bar and imrc motor removed. For the front, you would at least need to remove the fans, support the engine, remove or lower the front half of the cross member and the radius arms.
for the record notching the lower front subframe is definitely necessary to clear the p2r big tube headers. took quite a bit of time to grind, cut, test fit.. rear bracket on cls6 will work with bit of grinding.
for the record notching the lower front subframe is definitely necessary to clear the p2r big tube headers. took quite a bit of time to grind, cut, test fit.. rear bracket on cls6 will work with bit of grinding.
Damn! Was looking for a nice upgrade for the exhaust but I don’t have the capacity or want to notch out the frame to fit those. There are some other non stainless headers I may go with and still link them to the trubends 3”.
for the record notching the lower front subframe is definitely necessary to clear the p2r big tube headers. took quite a bit of time to grind, cut, test fit.. rear bracket on cls6 will work with bit of grinding.
619rcr, thanks for clearly depicting and confirming P2R's represented website claim, well done sir.
Damn! Was looking for a nice upgrade for the exhaust but I don’t have the capacity or want to notch out the frame to fit those. There are some other non stainless headers I may go with and still link them to the trubends 3”.
Hi. Have you driven the car on these long tube headers? Are they that much better than DC-Sports, or P2R's own old big tube design?
Hi. Have you driven the car on these long tube headers? Are they that much better than DC-Sports, or P2R's own old big tube design?
Aftermarket headers definitely make a difference in power. I felt the difference going from stock to DC sports. However, I can't say I really felt much of a difference going from DC Sports to P2R's. It did make a difference in sound when hitting VTEC though.
There is a video on YouTube of some one comparing 3 different kinds of headers on a Dyno. It was P2R's, 1320 hood exit exhausts, and one other I can't remember. The hood exit made the least power, while P2R's made the most. I'd say P2R's headers probably perform better than DC Sports, but there probably isn't much of a difference in power.
Aside from that, I prefer the shiny headers over the flat ceramic looks of the DC Sports. But one issue I have ran into, as well as two others, are the mating surface on the P2R headers tend to warp after a couple of first time uses. So if you go with them, I highly recommend you put some copper gasket maker on both sides of the metal exhaust manifold gasket.
Aftermarket headers definitely make a difference in power. I felt the difference going from stock to DC sports. However, I can't say I really felt much of a difference going from DC Sports to P2R's. It did make a difference in sound when hitting VTEC though.
There is a video on YouTube of some one comparing 3 different kinds of headers on a Dyno. It was P2R's, 1320 hood exit exhausts, and one other I can't remember. The hood exit made the least power, while P2R's made the most. I'd say P2R's headers probably perform better than DC Sports, but there probably isn't much of a difference in power.
Aside from that, I prefer the shiny headers over the flat ceramic looks of the DC Sports. But one issue I have ran into, as well as two others, are the mating surface on the P2R headers tend to warp after a couple of first time uses. So if you go with them, I highly recommend you put some copper gasket maker on both sides of the metal exhaust manifold gasket.
Thanks for the reply. I have actually been running P2R headers since 2018, but they're of the older type, not the so-called "long tube" where the main runners converge below the subframe. And yes, the flanges on mine are a bit warped. Before the P2R's I used to have the DC-Sports headers. Car felt strong with both.
The old design is kinda shite TBH, the J-pipe's two tubes came together at a straight angle (but I had a local exhaust fabricator remake the J-pipe into something much more intricate and better flowing).
I guess there's no point then for me to get the long tubes, if you say it's not much of a power increase over the DC-Sports.
Thanks for the reply. I have actually been running P2R headers since 2018, but they're of the older type, not the so-called "long tube" where the main runners converge below the subframe. And yes, the flanges on mine are a bit warped. Before the P2R's I used to have the DC-Sports headers. Car felt strong with both.
The old design is kinda shite TBH, the J-pipe's two tubes came together at a straight angle (but I had a local exhaust fabricator remake the J-pipe into something much more intricate and better flowing).
I guess there's no point then for me to get the long tubes, if you say it's not much of a power increase over the DC-Sports.
@InspireJ32A When you say older design, do you mean a 3 to 1 style header like stock, but with larger piping? I've been running what you seem to be referring to as long tube P2R headers over 2 yrs. Before I went from 3.2L sc to 3.5L. I had the stock exh manifold and j pipe with 3" catback. So, I couldn't say how much better long tube is over normal. But, now that I have a 3.6L I definitely wouldn't run anything smaller than a 3" merge collector. To be honest the worst thing is how loud it gets in vtec under heavy throttle.
@InspireJ32A When you say older design, do you mean a 3 to 1 style header like stock, but with larger piping? I've been running what you seem to be referring to as long tube P2R headers over 2 yrs. Before I went from 3.2L sc to 3.5L. I had the stock exh manifold and j pipe with 3" catback. So, I couldn't say how much better long tube is over normal. But, now that I have a 3.6L I definitely wouldn't run anything smaller than a 3" merge collector. To be honest the worst thing is how loud it gets in vtec under heavy throttle.
To be honest the worst thing is how loud it gets in vtec under heavy throttle.
You say that like it's a bad thing. I love how much my exhaust screams once I get high up into the RPMs. But sounds good, and not obnoxiously loud in the lower RPMs. Best of both worlds.
I actually agree with Thefireball, the sound isn't horrible. I do prefer the raspier more induction-leaning note than this Messerchmitt-y sort of rumble, but it's not an unpleasant noise by any means.
Okay, yeah that's what I was picturing... three short primaries on the top, then a long single pipe. P2R does have another variant with just the top portion that ends in a v-band https://powerrevracing.com/products/...v-band-starter). It seems to be geared toward someone making their own turbo piping.
At the moment I'm running a 75% ethanol blend on AEM series 2. That clip ^ was just a test after breaking in the 3.6L. I've been doing street tuning for several weeks. But, it's a slow process. The motor keeps wanting more and more fuel.
08-08-2021, 11:27 AM
