XLR8 Stock Diameter Lightweight Aluminum Crank Pulley Preorder!!!!
10-19-2012, 05:17 PM
#1
XLR8 Stock Diameter Lightweight Aluminum Crank Pulley Preorder!!!!
We have had a number of AZ members contact us regarding the XLR8 Stock Diameter Lightweight Aluminum Crank Pulley by UR. We are in the process of submitting another production run of lightweight stock diameter crank pulleys for the 2G CL/TL and 6G Accord V6. UR discontinued their stock diameter pulley a couple years ago. We did a production run about 2 years ago to keep them available for the Acurazine community, but we have run out. We want to keep this part available to the members but it requires a large order. So we want to do a sale to give the members a low price and offset some of the inventory we will have to keep. The new design will have a thinner profile and will have extra holes to make the pulley even lighter than the previous design. The previous design is shown below:
We are not looking for a set amount of orders. Basically what we're offering is a discounted price for all pre-orders. The cost of aluminum has gone up significantly so after this sale the pulleys will be selling for $230 plus shipping. All preorders will get the pulley for $180 plus shipping.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291888.aspx
Use promo code AZPULLEY to get the discounted price!!!
Why choose XLR8 and UR? Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Aluminum Pulleys are:
- Lightweight 6061-T6 billet aluminum
- CNC machined to .001" and 0 gram balanced
- Real HP & torque gains across entire RPM range
- Over 10 years of use in "real world" applications from street to road course to rally to dragstrip...
- Better than OEM belt fitment & alignment
- High quality polished finish
10-20-2012, 08:41 PM
#7
You gotta remove the accessory belts and the crank pulley bolt. You need the $15 Honda crank pulley remover key and 2 breaker bars.....one for the key to hold the pulley in place, the other to break loose the bolt. Use a 4 or 5 foot pipe for leverage over the breaker bar, put your weight on it, and it's a piece of cake.
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10-21-2012, 12:47 AM
#8
Cruisin'
Join Date: Sep 2012
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You gotta remove the accessory belts and the crank pulley bolt. You need the $15 Honda crank pulley remover key and 2 breaker bars.....one for the key to hold the pulley in place, the other to break loose the bolt. Use a 4 or 5 foot pipe for leverage over the breaker bar, put your weight on it, and it's a piece of cake.
10-21-2012, 12:36 PM
#9
XLR8, any chance of having this aluminum crank pulley in a version with the offset tool recess? I know there isn't one on your page.
I don't like the idea of jamming the drive plate etc (place your reasons, including me being picky, here). I was ready to purchase until I realized the difference.
If there isn't a chance then okay. It's cool. I know you stated it's just a production run of a previous design (with small change in design), but I was just hoping...
I don't like the idea of jamming the drive plate etc (place your reasons, including me being picky, here). I was ready to purchase until I realized the difference.
If there isn't a chance then okay. It's cool. I know you stated it's just a production run of a previous design (with small change in design), but I was just hoping...
10-22-2012, 12:05 PM
#12
It takes about an hour or so. The Honda crank pulley tool is needed to remove the stock crank pulley unless you have a big air gun.
No sorry. This isn't possible. The flex plate can be held properly with a tool that Honda makes. Most mechanics just use a decent impact gun for the bolt.
4-6 weeks.
This one will probably weigh 12-14 oz.
This one will probably weigh 12-14 oz.
10-22-2012, 01:47 PM
#14
You only need a breaker bar, I believe it's 19mm socket to install this pulley. Remove both belts from pulley. Make sure passenger tire is off, put breaker bar on the pulley bolt and make SURE it's pointing to the front of the car. Wedge some wood blocks in there to avoid messing up the ground below and to keep it tight. Then go inside and bump the starter slightly. Not enough to crank the car just enough to turn the motor. After 3 bumps mine was off. You can either tighten with impact gun or use a punch or other hard tool wrapped in MANY MANY layers of tape to achieve exact torque spec. For me the worst part of the install was getting the damn belts back on =o(
10-22-2012, 03:47 PM
#15
10-22-2012, 04:13 PM
#16
Senior Moderator
XLR8, any chance of having this aluminum crank pulley in a version with the offset tool recess? I know there isn't one on your page.
I don't like the idea of jamming the drive plate etc (place your reasons, including me being picky, here). I was ready to purchase until I realized the difference.
If there isn't a chance then okay. It's cool. I know you stated it's just a production run of a previous design (with small change in design), but I was just hoping...
I don't like the idea of jamming the drive plate etc (place your reasons, including me being picky, here). I was ready to purchase until I realized the difference.
If there isn't a chance then okay. It's cool. I know you stated it's just a production run of a previous design (with small change in design), but I was just hoping...
10-22-2012, 11:43 PM
#17
I am Quite interested in this.
But as a beginner I have some questions.
Since I work at a Dealership would an Impact Gun be ok, so I wouldnt need the Honda tool?
And how much tension are the belts on, hard to take off a specific way?
Would it be worth replacing the belts anyway guys?
And is there a warranty coverage?
But as a beginner I have some questions.
Since I work at a Dealership would an Impact Gun be ok, so I wouldnt need the Honda tool?
And how much tension are the belts on, hard to take off a specific way?
Would it be worth replacing the belts anyway guys?
And is there a warranty coverage?
10-23-2012, 10:11 AM
#22
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
^ yes they are internally balanced and fsttyms1 has been running a lightweight pulley for over 200,000 miles. I've been running one for about 30,000 miles
10-23-2012, 11:33 AM
#23
About 3-4 weeks.
The Honda crank pulley tool is to remove the stock crank pulley if your impact gun can't remove the crank bolt. This is a stock diameter pulley so belt tension remains the same. I would recommend replacing the belts with Gates belts. The part has a 5 year warranty I believe (but it requires new belts upon install and new belts every 2 years I believe).
The stock pulley has a rubber ring to reduce noise. The engine is internally balanced so the pulley doesn't balance anything. There are many many J series members with 200K+ with a lightweight crank pulley.
I am Quite interested in this.
But as a beginner I have some questions.
Since I work at a Dealership would an Impact Gun be ok, so I wouldnt need the Honda tool?
And how much tension are the belts on, hard to take off a specific way?
Would it be worth replacing the belts anyway guys?
And is there a warranty coverage?
But as a beginner I have some questions.
Since I work at a Dealership would an Impact Gun be ok, so I wouldnt need the Honda tool?
And how much tension are the belts on, hard to take off a specific way?
Would it be worth replacing the belts anyway guys?
And is there a warranty coverage?
The stock pulley has a rubber ring to reduce noise. The engine is internally balanced so the pulley doesn't balance anything. There are many many J series members with 200K+ with a lightweight crank pulley.
10-23-2012, 12:48 PM
#24
Senior Moderator
Since this pulley doesnt have the spot in it for the honda tool to hold the crank while tightening it you have to get under the car, remove the transmission inspection plate (just 2 or 3 little screws) and place a prybar against the teeth on the flex plate to keep the crank from turning while tightening the crank bolt.
10-23-2012, 12:52 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
From URs site
From their site
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that makes them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke length, displacement, inline, V configurations, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
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mikebikelife (01-03-2013)
10-23-2012, 12:53 PM
#26
Senior Moderator
And i can tell you with 100% certainty that these engines are internally balanced.
10-23-2012, 01:57 PM
#27
If you're gonna change the belts (and you should, they are $10 each), it's a good idea to replace the tensioner too. The Gates one goes for $55....that's what I installed. Looked identical to oem.
10-23-2012, 02:20 PM
#29
Damn after all this discussion.. it makes me really want one. But i dont even have headers yet, only performance mod i have is my comptech icebox slightly modified and exhaust. yes we know exhaust doesnt give us much lol. I have the money to buy this now but im spending it on something else.. interior mod wise 
.
.
10-23-2012, 02:35 PM
#30
I'd buy they pulley first. Instead of waiting then when you're ready the pulley isn't available anymore. Not exactly a frequently bought item outside of guys like us. Act now while you can! I would snap up performance parts as much as I could since they're becoming less and less frequent.
10-23-2012, 03:07 PM
#32
I'd buy they pulley first. Instead of waiting then when you're ready the pulley isn't available anymore. Not exactly a frequently bought item outside of guys like us. Act now while you can! I would snap up performance parts as much as I could since they're becoming less and less frequent.
Still gotta finish my lip kit and get other things done. Once im done with all those THEN maybe i can start engine mods
10-23-2012, 03:50 PM
#33
Kurtis this is easy to install but yea a hop would gladly do it for you. Just call around and explain what you want to do. With a lift and good compressor and tools this is like a 20-30 minute job. On the ground with jacks and hand tools it's about an hour.
10-23-2012, 03:58 PM
#34
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I had a shop do it and they charged like 30-40$ plus the price of new belts. I Agree with Dave this the only other thing i could notice other than headers.
10-23-2012, 04:49 PM
#35
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
XLR8, could you give us an exact date when the preorder ends? Or maybe at least when it gets closer to the end date? I need to wait until at least next Friday till I have the money for this. Or is it like I put in my order now, and then my card is charged when it's shipped out?
30-40 bucks?! Then why is a timing belt service so expensive? What am I missing?
30-40 bucks?! Then why is a timing belt service so expensive? What am I missing?
10-24-2012, 10:23 AM
#38
XLR8, could you give us an exact date when the preorder ends? Or maybe at least when it gets closer to the end date? I need to wait until at least next Friday till I have the money for this. Or is it like I put in my order now, and then my card is charged when it's shipped out?
30-40 bucks?! Then why is a timing belt service so expensive? What am I missing?
30-40 bucks?! Then why is a timing belt service so expensive? What am I missing?
This isn't a timing belt job. The crank pulley runs your accessories, not your timing.
10-24-2012, 10:31 AM
#39
But yes, timing job has a lot of other stuff, so price is high. I would figure 1/2 hour labor for crank pulley R&I. Maybe 1 hour at dealership.
10-24-2012, 10:42 AM
#40
If you do this yourself and don't have a huge ass compressor I would suggest skipping the impact gun completely and just use the starter. I had a kick ass impact gun but compressor wasn't great so it was useless for this. That bolt is TIGHT. Either way this is a simple install. Just don't lose the key when you pull off old crank or you're screwed!! Also when installing new pulley I found the easiest way to make sure it was sitting straight was to start the bolt a little and use that to straighten out the pulley if that makes sense.