What is considered excessive brake drag???
#1
B93P TL Owner
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What is considered excessive brake drag???
Doing some brake work on my car this weekend, and noticed that spinning the front two wheels are somewhat difficult. If I give it my best spin, the wheel may go about 3/4 of a turn at best (on average it goes about 1/2 turn or slightly more). Sounds like I hear a lot of brake drag in the process. For comparison purposes, I spun the two front wheels on my Galant. I can easily get the wheels to spin two complete revolutions with very little brake drag. A lot less effort to spin too! Question I would like to know is whether or not this brake drag I am getting on the Acura is considered excessive? And if so, what is the usual culprit for this behavior?
#2
Dragging knees in
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What kind of "brake work" is it?
New pads? New rotors? They will have to seat and break in. After the initial break-in procedure, the caliper pistons will position themselves. After that, you will be able to spin it more freely, although it's not supposed to spin that easily. When you turn a drive wheel on one side, you're spinning the drivetrain, and thus the other drive wheel, too. There's going to be resistance.
When you're driving and let off the throttle, and you feel the car slowing down on its own, that means there's something wrong (you will most likely feel the forward g) But that's usually caused by things like a seized piston, improperly adjusted booster rod, etc.
New pads? New rotors? They will have to seat and break in. After the initial break-in procedure, the caliper pistons will position themselves. After that, you will be able to spin it more freely, although it's not supposed to spin that easily. When you turn a drive wheel on one side, you're spinning the drivetrain, and thus the other drive wheel, too. There's going to be resistance.
When you're driving and let off the throttle, and you feel the car slowing down on its own, that means there's something wrong (you will most likely feel the forward g) But that's usually caused by things like a seized piston, improperly adjusted booster rod, etc.
#3
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
What kind of "brake work" is it?
New pads? New rotors? They will have to seat and break in. After the initial break-in procedure, the caliper pistons will position themselves. After that, you will be able to spin it more freely, although it's not supposed to spin that easily. When you turn a drive wheel on one side, you're spinning the drivetrain, and thus the other drive wheel, too. There's going to be resistance.
When you're driving and let off the throttle, and you feel the car slowing down on its own, that means there's something wrong (you will most likely feel the forward g) But that's usually caused by things like a seized piston, improperly adjusted booster rod, etc.
New pads? New rotors? They will have to seat and break in. After the initial break-in procedure, the caliper pistons will position themselves. After that, you will be able to spin it more freely, although it's not supposed to spin that easily. When you turn a drive wheel on one side, you're spinning the drivetrain, and thus the other drive wheel, too. There's going to be resistance.
When you're driving and let off the throttle, and you feel the car slowing down on its own, that means there's something wrong (you will most likely feel the forward g) But that's usually caused by things like a seized piston, improperly adjusted booster rod, etc.
Well, I removed both of my rear rotors to have them turned. In doing so, I went ahead to check the condition of the brakes upfront. The pads/rotors are not new. In fact, I have about 15,000 miles on my OEM pad/Brembo crossed-drilled slotted rotors.
I am getting this "wobbly" type of vibration when braking, but without any steering wheel shimmy at all. Unique thing about this type of vibration is that it only occurs when braking between the 40MPH and 30MPH range. Doesn't vibrate any other time during the braking process. I thought the turning of the rear rotors would help (since there was not steering wheel shimmy during the vibration). But after turning the rotors the same characteristics exist. Basically I am trying to eliminate other possibilities. Do you have any other thoughts as to what could be causing this unique type of vibration?
#4
Dragging knees in
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Originally Posted by mdavisii
Well, I removed both of my rear rotors to have them turned. In doing so, I went ahead to check the condition of the brakes upfront. The pads/rotors are not new. In fact, I have about 15,000 miles on my OEM pad/Brembo crossed-drilled slotted rotors.
I am getting this "wobbly" type of vibration when braking, but without any steering wheel shimmy at all. Unique thing about this type of vibration is that it only occurs when braking between the 40MPH and 30MPH range. Doesn't vibrate any other time during the braking process. I thought the turning of the rear rotors would help (since there was not steering wheel shimmy during the vibration). But after turning the rotors the same characteristics exist. Basically I am trying to eliminate other possibilities. Do you have any other thoughts as to what could be causing this unique type of vibration?
I am getting this "wobbly" type of vibration when braking, but without any steering wheel shimmy at all. Unique thing about this type of vibration is that it only occurs when braking between the 40MPH and 30MPH range. Doesn't vibrate any other time during the braking process. I thought the turning of the rear rotors would help (since there was not steering wheel shimmy during the vibration). But after turning the rotors the same characteristics exist. Basically I am trying to eliminate other possibilities. Do you have any other thoughts as to what could be causing this unique type of vibration?
#5
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My instinct says axles, as well. If it were the brakes it would do it outside of the 30-40mph range. If I read your other posts correctly and your TL has 130+k miles, then it's probably just that time in the life of a FWD'er.
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