Just placed my Rock Auto order to get a few things taken care of on my TL... Going to install Legend 2 piston front calipers, rebuild rear calipers (one of which is sticking), install all new rotors and pads, and fix a broken wheel speed sensor so I can enjoy ABS again. Unfortunately parts won't arrive in time for install this weekend, but will be here for the following weekend.

 

Good luck.....take some notes and pics, then make a fresh "DIY" for us !!!

 

Wheel speed sensors are fun to get out. I ended up having to use small socket and hammer to knock mine out, when i rebuilt my steering knuckles. I would soak it in PB blaster the night before....

 

Thanks! I was looking at the DIY thread, and looks like there's a good one for rotors/pads, but didn't see anything regarding the caliper swap, so I'll see if I can put one together.

Great tip. I'm actually having to replace the sensor because my father-in-law broke it last year when trying to remove it while helping me replace the shocks. Needless to say I wasn't too happy when he did that...

 

I have the Power Stop brake and rotor kit. That is a great price, I paid forty dollars 1 year ago.


The drilled and slotted rotors if you live in a cold area brake very well in winter.

 

found the disc with pics from mine, but there are few special things except the following
BUY new brake line to caliper crush rings, they are one use! need 2 per line- one goes on each side of fitting- new calipers will come with, but you may as well get all new probably better ones from dealer

ck the bracket bolts match the old ones!! if not exact use old ones- ck torque spec on install of all bolts-

THIS IS THE TRICKY PART OF INSTALL!!!!!
The caliper with the L stamped on it goes on the passenger side of car
and the one with R stamped on it goes on Driver side of car

Prefill the calipers via $3 oil squirt can from parts store/harbor freight tools with as much new brake fluid as you can thru the line and filler holes
It will help massively later! and protects seals by getting their oil on surface

take the side and end spring clips and bolts from it and transfer to TL bracket- we do not need the large center of caliper clip if included with your parts- it wont hurt IF it clears everything- some make a contact squeal = ok to throw them in recycle bin

throw the new brackets back in the box with old calipers to return, shops are happy to get the TL calipers to rebuild!, many more of them on the road than an old legend

Use TL rotors TL brake pads, TL brackets

DOT4 brake fluid 2 qts, a harbor freight vac gauge/brake bleeder $25 will make your life better

special TL bleed order is LF RF RR LR
AND
because you have the lines all opened you MUST do 2 45mph ABS ACTIVE pulsing quickly under foot as you come to full stop- then back to 45mph and full abs active to complete stop- that dislodges air hidden in ABS pump- it happens when lines are open- I can personally verify this~
if 2nd time had firmer pedal- there was air
rebleed entire system in its special- driver front then clockwise around the car order
all is well now~

note the new calipers will surface rust quickly- special caliper paint is less than 10 bucks to dress up the edges/center hub of rotors and the calipers

suggest buy the $1 rubber caps that seal brake lines while calipers are off- keeps the master cyl from draining itself dry- that's bad!!

If you have $100 left, a set of SS brake lines will change the TL braking experience.
have buddy pump pedal while you observe rubber line to caliper flexing/expanding = losing pressure to caliper, and that's when cold- imagine when fluids hot and you are pushing hard on the brakes approaching turns in the mountains
or slow/stop from any speed when sudden obstacles appear- like a Drivers Ed film come to life!! Follow the bouncing ball into the street, or the semi truck sliding across freeway median towards your side!
eliminates that line expansion flex and gives a firmer pedal fell overall
Makes full use of the improved brake pad pressure from the Legend calipers

 

the park brake shoes- a mini drum brake system lives in the center hub of rear rotors- that wide part, if rotor is difficult to remove, rotate so hole with rubber plug is at 6 oclock position- remove plug and loosen star adjuster wheel = same as any drum brake

lube all that spring and self adjuster wheel threaded stuff while its apart.
adjust park brakes to tight- wheel wont turn by hand then loosen 6 clicks
youtube how to adjust drum brakes for help

 

Thanks 01tl4tl. I've read a lot of your replies on other threads, but having it all summarized in one post is very helpful.

I'm definitely familiar with the benefits off SS lines - had them on both my street bike and race bike previously - but for several reasons I've decided not to install them at this time.

 

Edit: I paid forty dollars more a year ago.



When you bleed the brakes make sure that all the debris and bubbles are out before proceeding to the next caliper. Also keep the master cylinder reservoir full during the process.


Pre fill the calipers with brake fluid before you install them .

 

in my opinion- the problem with the ABS test is doing it on brand new brake parts- that hard on them!
if possible based on your time schedule- replace the calipers while leaving old rotors and pads installed
do the abs test and rebleed
now do the brake job

If the old brake fluid is really crudded, do a full flush till all new fluid comes out of each caliper- then proceed with step 1
we want to eliminate possibility of fluid contamination in new calipers

 

$40 more makes much more sense. I was wondering how you got that whole kit for $40!

Great idea about doing the calipers first, bleeding with the ABS stop, then doing the rotors/pads. I was thinking I'd just wait a week or two before doing the ABS stops after installing the new rotors/pads. And actually, doing the calipers by themselves one weekend, then the pads/rotors the following weekend would work much better schedule-wise.


Oh, and I just received tracking numbers for my shipments. Everything should be delivered tomorrow!! Yes!

 

Fun day working on the TL. I installed both front Legend calipers and rebuilt one rear caliper, but couldn't do the other one because I managed to tear one of the dust boots doing the first one. Tried three different chain auto parts stores (NAPA, Advanced, & O'Reilly's) and none of them had the part in stock. So I had Advanced order me two more rebuild kits (one's a spare in case I tear another dust boot), and they'll be in tomorrow so I can finish the caliper work.

I also replaced the wheel speed sensor, and it didn't fix my TCS / ABS fault - despite the fact I know the sensor was broken. I'm going to have Advanced pull codes tomorrow when I pick up my new rebuild kit and see if one of the other wheel speed sensors was damaged. Removing the old sensor was a royal pain.

 

I dont see the point of upgrading to these 2 pistons calipers as the stock TL caliper is mainly good enough for street use, just pair them with good rotors and pads...not saying its a waste of $400 bucks but the performance improvement isnt that much to compensate the $$$ and time spent, however its a nice project and accomplisment u will feel good about your brakes.

 

^^^ Huh. Might be the case on a TL. On my CL, the 2-piston calipers were a night and day difference; pads and rotors being equal.

 

^^^ Yeah, let's hear more from folks like B52bgz who have done the swap and feel as though the 2 piston Legend calipers are actually an improvement and a worthwhile upgrade to our TL's.

As for expenses ....it appears that for less than $150 and about an hour of one's time installing the "Legend" calipers is a very modest price to pay for overall improved braking performance. So, who's done this upgrade and would you advise doing it ? Thanks !

 

I would also point out that the swap can be done for way less than the OP spent. I did mine for less than $250; slotted/drilled rotors, pads, and calipers.

 

$400 is for a complete overhaul of the braking system... rebuilding the rear calipers, new (and better designed) front calipers, all new rotors, and all new pads. I've been fighting warped rotors for 220K miles on this car, so if $400 finally stops me from continuing to warp rotors, then it's money very well spent.
Yup, cheaper is probably possible. I ordered everything from Rock Auto because I've had good success with them in the past. I could have gone cheaper on the rotors/pads, but for what they were I'm happy with the price I paid.

 

I have been running the Legend LS-c setup for several years now, on RacingBrake slotted 1 piece front rotors with their ET300 pads
also with Hawk HPS for 25kmiles, and with autozone basic pads while waiting on shipment of good ones~

Was one of the first TL'rs to get it, CL guys been using them for years before us
the caliper improvement is obvious in pics in new diy by RONE
spreading the force also amplifies total available brake pressure to apply to the pads
in addition the extra support arms/fingers keep the outer pad in firmer contact

Overall its about the best 150 bucks you can spend/ I spent on the TL
You can save a few dollars finding the same caliper without bracket or clips
make sure the piston sizes are the ones noted in the new diy, they sell several for the legend all with different piston sizes, these are closest together = best for our purpose
from a 1995 LS-COUPE
but you should buy new clips- a Hardware Kit at parts store, the springy goes out of those things so replacement with every pad change is optimal but rarely done

other best low priced mod: intake resonator remove FREE
Cusco Lower frame crossbrace 100 bucks of amazing tightening of the car as a whole, no more opposite roll into corners = happy wife in passenger seat

SS brake lines with legend caliper upgrade ~$100-125- No more pressure loss under braking
get them!!!!!!!!!! you will be testing the cars new found braking ability and want all of it!!
racers and wannabes use brake fluid DOT 5.1 that's five point ONE synthetic, 15$ per qt but gives even better pedal response and feel
normal humans stick with dot4 I know it says dot3 in 14 year old spec for car
but 4 carries all 3 specs and higher, most bottles are marked dot 3/4 !

Last low cost mod is the intake manifold cooling/insulator spacers ~ 120$ great if you live in mountains or its 100 degrees outside

Best high dollar mods for me Tein SS struts, Enkei 18" rims

almost forgot- lower cost speed mod is the lightweight crank pulley that shaves nearly 12 pounds of the rotating mass- from 14 to under 2!!! off brand 50 bucks, name brand 200, install $60 at a shop- way easier than you doing on the floor