VoLLy_1llusioNz started it (my brake pics)
05-21-2008, 11:17 PM
#3
hey dnd- somebody revived a 4 year old thread where you were looking for brakes the first time lol
you ever decide what to get back then
you ever decide what to get back then
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05-22-2008, 11:54 AM
#12
Those are sweet 2 piece rotors Matt,
what pads are you running?
what pads are you running?
05-22-2008, 11:59 AM
#13
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by bibledriver
shoot, I am going to have to link my brakes now
05-22-2008, 03:18 PM
#15
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Show off!
05-22-2008, 03:49 PM
#19
Senior Moderator
When my rotors are done im going to pick up the DBA 4000 Series Rotor. They are supposed to be really good.
05-22-2008, 06:45 PM
#22
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
Also I was told that slotted rotors cant be turned? Is this true. So if they warp just get new ones?
05-22-2008, 07:20 PM
#23
its a myth- they can be turned, they should not warp before the slots wear out-- thats the normal replace point and should be a few sets of pads down the road before that happens
DND, make sure to bed them in proper- and I know when you say bleed the brakes that you mean (for benefit of others) that you are doing a full brake system FLUSH, where you remove most fluid from Master cyl (use turkey baster) and refill with new fluid- then do a brake bleeding method to get the new fluid down to and thru the calipers and then a little more to be sure.
And the TL bleeding order DRIVER front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
here is 1 good proven pad/rotor bedding method - I helped write it and tested on my TL
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
DND, make sure to bed them in proper- and I know when you say bleed the brakes that you mean (for benefit of others) that you are doing a full brake system FLUSH, where you remove most fluid from Master cyl (use turkey baster) and refill with new fluid- then do a brake bleeding method to get the new fluid down to and thru the calipers and then a little more to be sure.
And the TL bleeding order DRIVER front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
here is 1 good proven pad/rotor bedding method - I helped write it and tested on my TL
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
05-22-2008, 07:31 PM
#25
remove the screen thing and clean with brake cleaner spray and let air dry while you do the rest.
Black stuff in the screen- I dont even want to guess !
Black stuff in the screen- I dont even want to guess !
05-22-2008, 10:29 PM
#26
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
remove the screen thing and clean with brake cleaner spray and let air dry while you do the rest.
Black stuff in the screen- I dont even want to guess !
Black stuff in the screen- I dont even want to guess !
I am assuming that is some sort of filter??? I know in the suburban it was really dark before I did it for the first time. Then month later my parents totalled it anyways
05-22-2008, 11:18 PM
#27
you got it!!- supposed to trap tiny particles that may have gotten blown in or somehow mixed in with brake fluid that is being added
Since brake fluid simply moves back and forth a very slight distance- the filter is not a running pressure filter like the engine oil.
Since brake fluid simply moves back and forth a very slight distance- the filter is not a running pressure filter like the engine oil.
05-22-2008, 11:32 PM
#28
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by dnd2984
I am assuming that is some sort of filter??? I know in the suburban it was really dark before I did it for the first time. Then month later my parents totalled it anyways
05-23-2008, 07:58 AM
#30
Something is missing...my
lol. That is AWESOME. I need to save money that way. "Hey babe, I think to save money on gas, I need a SC. They say you get a couple points better on the highway!" Funny enough, that is the only way that i could get one likely.
05-23-2008, 08:02 AM
#31
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by dnd2984
God no. Just plain stupidity. Here is the best part, to save money on gas, instead of getting another suburban they got a Tahoe 
05-24-2008, 07:48 PM
#32
Ok all done with the brake upgrade.
Stoptech Sloted rotors up front
Napa rotors in the back.
Hawk HPS pads all the way around. I followed the directions on the hawk box that says 6 to 10 stops from 35mph.
So far nothing really special. How long does it take before the hawk pads start to realy shine...
Stoptech Sloted rotors up front
Napa rotors in the back.
Hawk HPS pads all the way around. I followed the directions on the hawk box that says 6 to 10 stops from 35mph.
So far nothing really special. How long does it take before the hawk pads start to realy shine...
05-24-2008, 08:28 PM
#33
Something is missing...my
No pics? come on now. You bedded them in, right? I don't know maybe after about 1000 miles you will be running 100% but they will be just fine.
05-24-2008, 08:52 PM
#34
dnd-
hawks method is limited by the space on the box
Please tell me you didnt come to a full stop during the process?
Have a read of these brake bedding instructions- I help write it and tested on my 01`TL
so I can say its an effective method. Based on the directions of 3 major brake makers- sorta combined and more detailed explanation of what and why is going on
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
hawks method is limited by the space on the box
Please tell me you didnt come to a full stop during the process?
Have a read of these brake bedding instructions- I help write it and tested on my 01`TL
so I can say its an effective method. Based on the directions of 3 major brake makers- sorta combined and more detailed explanation of what and why is going on
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
05-24-2008, 08:56 PM
#35
It can take up to 500 street miles to get everything at 110% and track day ready
Be careful the first 200, do the bedding a few days in a row and that will wake them up.
Hawks first bedding is just to ~green~ them, to remove the residue of making them and getting the secret whatevers to the surface and out
Thats why you do some low speed increaing effort SLOWS- never full stop!!!
That brings the pads temp up slowly and all the way thru the pad-
the next efforts transfer more material to the rotor surface- increasing grip-
Go have a read and do a set my way- then report back
Be careful the first 200, do the bedding a few days in a row and that will wake them up.
Hawks first bedding is just to ~green~ them, to remove the residue of making them and getting the secret whatevers to the surface and out
Thats why you do some low speed increaing effort SLOWS- never full stop!!!
That brings the pads temp up slowly and all the way thru the pad-
the next efforts transfer more material to the rotor surface- increasing grip-
Go have a read and do a set my way- then report back
05-24-2008, 09:11 PM
#37
Originally Posted by bibledriver
No pics? come on now. You bedded them in, right? I don't know maybe after about 1000 miles you will be running 100% but they will be just fine.
Pics will be up after the
Wash, clay, polish, and wax tommorow.
