It seems to me that they didn't perform this task on my TL during the timing belt replacement in the past few months. I didnt see it on the receipt.
So, I did call up Acura service manager today and he informed me that those TL's valves have self adjustment. So, valves adjustment isnot required except for Integra's models.
I have heart a lot about valves adjustment in our 2G TLs but, is it true that our TL have self valves adjustment?

 

When I took my car in for timing belt a couple weeks ago, the manager told me that the TL has hydraulic valves, and they would be making noise if they needed to be adjusted.

I was a little skeptical too, but I figured he knows what he's talking about...

 

Please refer to your owners manual and look under the 105k maint schedule. They should inspect the clearance and adjust if needed.

 

My valves have just started to make some noise. I'm trying to determine when and how best to go about getting them adjusted.

My dealership charged me for an adjusted, and shortly after that the car seems to be making more noise. I now don't deal with that dealership due to unethical billing practices.

Whats involved with a valve adjustment and what should one expect to pay to have it done?

 

Ditte to rob-2's question...

 

If they made more noise afterwards you should bring it back.

You have to remove the upper intake manifold, remove the valve covers, get the cyl to TDC and adjust with a feeler gauge )per manual specifications). Continue for each cyl.

 

Are we looking at 1,2,3 or more hours work?

 

Valves on my TL are ok. What I'm confused is why do we need to check the valve clearance where it can perform "self-adjust" by itself like the service mgr. said.

 

because the DONT self adjust!!! Was that a service WRITER you spoke with? they will say anything~~

- point out the maitenance list in the owner book to them!, then go to a private shop that specializes in honda cars.
There is a lock bolt and adjuster `screw` on top of each valve, there is a min and max clearance between the 2 surfaces of valve stem and lifter. It can and does change over time
Its possible one or more `valve lash` was set too tight or loose at dealership resulting in noises.
These engines should run like 200HP sewing machines when all is well
Figure about 2-3 hours labor.
Good time to install a thermo spacer if you want one- the intake manifold has to come off to get access to the valve covers to remove them...to get to the adjusters....
so the new part can just drop in under the manifold

 

Its hard to believe that dealers would NOT want to do as much work as possible on the 105 service, unless they got the job on low bid--and dont expect that you will pay for the ~extra~ service needed
Do the ps flush at home, change your own filters, but let a trained tech do the valve adjust while the engine is in getting its real service!!

 

I thought so, mine is starting to sound like an 80's domestic while idling. It's horrible.

 

check the AC belt tensioner pulley-
located at the top-front of the engine, that one you can see but not really reach to work on~
Use a mechanics stethascope or long screwdriver placed aginst the body of the pulley- not the turning part- and listen- you will know right away -- if it sounds like the garbage disposal ate something bad!!! You can listen to the valves this same way.
I can imagine a tech replacing the belts on your 105, and not having a complaint of noise- doesnt replace the tensioner---
shortly after- the tensioner makes bigger noise
Check it out

 

I think the self-adjust part for the valve, the dealer was talking about, is something else when the ecu detects, such as, low grade of gas was used.

For the valve clearance, if it is not within specs, it will need to be adjusted manually, one by one.

 

I hear 'click, click, click, click' when the car is fully warmed up and idling around 600rpm.

No noise from A/C tensioner

 

YOu know what happens, the more time I spend on this forum, the more I want to work on the car. The more I want to work on the car, the more time/money I spend on my car... I'm in the wrong line of work.

working on the car is like crack, and acurazine is the dealer..

 

So I thought I'd upload a quick video. Lets see if it works properly, I can do another if the sound is no good.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=RxMU-3xBv6M

 

sounds more like ps pump or a tensioner than valve adjustment
Get that stethascope- if `harbor freight tools` is near you, they are 5 bucks= or 8 bucks at autozone. With pin point accuracy you can follow a noise and get the right one

 

rob-
we havn't even got your car `track-day` ready, and exposed you to high sped controlled roadrace track FUN yet!

THEN... a crack addiction seems like solid fiscal planning when compared to owning a TL

In reality- for under 3 grand in mods, you can have a tricked out car that goes, turns, and stops better than you can believe
For under a grand you can have a car that goes and stops really well

 

Tom here's another video - http://youtube.com/watch?v=ujDvZAYcemc

Sorry for the back ground noise, I think the fan in the garage was on.

So if we don't think it's valves, I got to go to the local autozone and find this stethascope. I guess that'll happen tomorrow

 

they will know what you need- its like a doctors stethascope they use to listen to your heart----- except this one will have a 8-12 inch long, point tipped- metal probe, instead of the round thing.
Once you listen to a few parts across the engine- then you can tell when something is wrong....very distinct noise will be heard

 

that sounds just like my car did!!
I thought it was getting ready to throw a valve so out came the scope- listen to all the valves- nope all fine here- test the tensioner - garblegranglemangle- wow I think this is the problem

Checked the old owners paperwork- at 45k complained of noise= acura said it needed tensioner pully- not warranty- work declined
75k owner has ac belt replaced and oil changed as part of for sale prep.
80k small noise getting worse, ask acura techs opinion, use stethascope to confirm,
pay someone else to lose 3 layers of skin.
Noise all gone!!

 

while my wife was baking I ducked out and picked up a stethascope. I cannot find anything that sounds off coming off the tensioner, or any of the pullies I can reach on the front of the motor.

When I touch either of the bolts that hold the timing belt covers, there it is. The noise is loudest on the front two cyclnders, as I move back it gets slightly quieter but the noise seems to be off the engine block and no where else.

Thoughts? Solutions?

Do you think the timing is off? It sounds like it to my ears.

 

That's what I thought, they DONT self adjust. I think the Acura service mgr. is confused me, we spoke on the phone btw.

 

Ill try to get a chance to scan in the manual pages for valve adjustments tonight. Spend a few hours checking and adjusting and see if it helps (though our cars are somewhat noisy)


Also where are you with oil life? I notice mine are much more quiet with new oil as opposed to older oil.

 

Kris, I'm only 2500 miles into the 7500.

Are the valves something I could adjust myself? I do have the book, but no special tools.

 

Only special too you need is a feeler gage. You can find them pretty cheap at most parts stores. And yes this is something you could do yourself.

 

Hmm, my concern is never having done this before, I'd really screw something up.

 

Take your time and follow the manual. its not hard.

 

Kris, does this mean you think it's a valve issue?

My car sounds like a diesel...

 

Hard to tell from the video. It may be. It may be a tensioner? Never hurts to inspect and check the tolerances.

 

I can have those checked aswell.

It dawns on me that maybe that's just how the motor is to sound at 118k. Or should it sound smoother?

I must admit I've never owned a car that had more then 70k on it.

 

It should sound the way it did new. Mine did. (though i have a noisy one on the rear that i need to adjust one of these days)

 

Thats the sound my car makes. The only differnce my car stops making the sound the second I turn off the AC. I am no mechanic but I am going to guess thats something else.

Clean engine by the way.

 

you could foam the oil and put full synthetic in it-
Rob is running valvoline blend- and had the dealer do a pricey 105k and has these probs since then. Also recent owner of the car iirc ?

With the past few attempts of foam in the intake, were you doing a good hot drive after-? like 4000 rpm for 10 minutes- then some low rpm-- full throttle to 5000 rpm runs, to pump the stuff out..Heat it good and the send it on its way!

Then have someone else listen to the tensioner pulley and other areas
Are those 2 bolts for the cover tight?

Is the dealer close enough you can drop by and open the hood for them for a listen?

 

If you dont have a service manual and experience I dont rec. messing with your valve clearance.

 

Thanks, I'm a little anal about my car. When this noise started up I knew something was off.

Per Kris and Tom's advice I've done a lot of investigating. You can see my results posted above.

On Monday I'm having my mechanic look into.

This morning, on my drive the car was cold and it was less noticeable. Once it warmed up it was really noticeable at idle and then jumps out at you around 1500rpm (very off and loud). Then it seems to disappear. Motor is certainly not running the way it was.

FYI - A/C on the car was off.

 

rob-
did you get this car recently and had it serviced- so not sure what it used to run like?
And the noise has gotten worse in say the last month?
Its always possible you have an adjuster for the valve got loose and clearance changed, or a big vac leak or,,,, let me put my stethascope up to the phone outlet,,,,,, ZAPPPPP
owww!!!! that was NOT the phone outlet~

Drop by the dealer today and ask Service Manager to take a listen
Dont drive it this weekend till you figure out if its inside the valve cover- or just an external pulley problem or anything you may have worked on since the service?? any DIY mods? CAI - intake?

While at the dealer- ask to start up another TL with similar mileage

 

No, we've had it for 2-3 years now I believe. Last service was in Feb 08 with the 105K service, which included valves. Motor was quieter until about 95-105k. Thats when I thought the idle was off, hoping the 105K service would change that, seems it's only gotten louder since.

There are two dealers within driving distance, one I cannot trust to bill me correctly and the second one has a service issue. I'm stuck waiting until my mechanic can look at it Monday, because he's booked.

I'm East Bay, if someone can recommend a place I stop by today or this weekend I will.

OR

There is a Honda dealer just by my house, can I visit them?

 

No mods, only DIY was seafoam.

 

And you have made certain the vac line with CLAMP was installed again after foam?
Honda may be willing to give it a listen, but their standard line will be- 1 hour diagnosis fee
thats FEE not free

Drop by your techs place- say-here is a stethascope! please just take a listen-
tell me, its ok till monday or panic now?