I am looking for it--- you can look too!!! in gen 3 threads- Southern or southern- not sure on the S
search is not coming up with the answer I seek, may have to google it to get azine link!

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...8&page=3&pp=25

 

Thanks, I couldn't find it under 105K and now I know why.

So I'm going to be doing my valves in the coming weeks. Just confirming when I can have my car sit overnight and get my friend out to my house.

I dont know if we'll do a DIY but I'll report back on the noise.

 

you should do a DIY, i want to know the tool to use and i dont feel like buyingk a helms for just this..

 

I know there is a scan of gen3 repair manual pages for this procedure on azine- I read it!-just cant find it now of course
its the same- just need to find it and verify the valve clearance specs- which are probably in my owner book <g>

Now playing the Devils advocate on you:
rob- what are you going to do if you get inside and find a problem?- will you even know what a problem is/looks like?- lets say- damaged camshaft- is there? damaged valve stem or bad adjuster??

I had more than one car in the shop - the owner didnt keep up on oil changes at some point in the cars life, and there was significant wear on the camshaft from grit.
When the valves were adjusted to spec- it made a terrible noise....
If you are going to do it yourself:
Buy a go/ no-go feeler guage- they slide in and stop (have a built in step) when at the right clearance. Old school guys have a guage that is the right thickness and you determine how much adjustment pressure it has by feel.

With a GO- NO GO, it goes in and stops- or it no go in at all- that means its too tight!
If it go go goes... its too loose!
~
I may come over just to watch- and bring a camera!!!

 

I went out and got a regular feeler guage for $5 from Kragen.

Should I be returning this and getting a go - no go guage?

I'm not understanding the difference.

 

Stupid, unable to edit a message after 5 minutes..

Can anyone recommend me a go no-go feeler guage?

Exhaust specs 0.011 - 0.013
Intake 0.008 - 0.009

Maybe with these figures Tom, you can explain how I might use this go no-go feeler guage?

Right now I have the straight gauge one, the old school design I guess.

 

Wouldn't have a clue what a damaged cam/adjuster/stem would look like. Hoping by having someone who does around they might know.

I was thinking setting them to the tight side, which I believe is the smaller of the two figures given for the range, should reduce the noise. I believe I was told they are noisy because they are loose.

Honestly, I don't know the relationship between the measurement and the noise is. I hopefully will find out tomorrow when I swing by my mechanics.

 

take that back!!!
get a good one- kragen maybe? import parts store, or the mac tool truck guy are good ones
For you -me - anyone, to get accurate with the simple slide guage is tough.
Thats what I own,,, but had a proper go-no go before

What you have in your hand is a set of shims that is one thickness along its length
its marked as .06 .08 etc. You would have to slide the correct one in between the valve stem and the adjuster bottem- determine what 5 pounds of pull/resistance ~feels~ like, and set the adjuster.

What you want, will be -as example- .08 for 1/2 inch up its length- then it has a stop-step thats much larger/thicker metal-
So you insert the correct size- it gently slides in and stops at that step- its at the thickness listed on it. get it? it Goes... until it NO GO ~es
if it slides right past the step- the adjuster needs to be tightened,
if it wont go in at all, its too tight- turn the screw the other way and try again.

The specs on the valve to adjuster clearance are a min and max. The intakes you want to run on the loose-larger end of the allowable and the exhaust in the middle of spec.
That will be quiet and most fuel efficient settings

What happens is the camshaft rotates directly off the timing belt, so they turn and push the valves down- open when the extended lobe reaches its position on the rotate-
When the adjustment is off on the actuator to the valve- thats what you are adjusting, the valve opens early or late or not enough or.... so precision is critical.
IMO- make sure the valve edges that seal inside the head are clean by doing a big seafoam treatment to the intake manifold and gas a week before playing with the adjustment.
Do the engine oil- crankcase method too- you want everything spotless so you can make the most accurate adjustment possible, Oil is a key player in the area you will be working- it directly lubes the camshaft

I know you have done this prep already rob- just saying it for others in the future

 

the noise comes from the actuator/adjuster slapping- from being loose-
you see the tight tolerances given- go just over that limit and you get a warning noise

You should have a chat with the service manager at the 105 dealer about it not being right in such a short time,
They can charge you a hundred and make you happy? right!

 

I would have a convo, but it's really not worth the time at this point. I'm 2K in the hole with them and their reviews only support the poor service center. I wont be putting my car in their bay again...

 

Got my parts in today, I'm tired of these different prices on Kragen's site vs. their store. Looks like on my trip over there to return my feeler guage they're going to be matching their online prices for the gaskets. On some it's as much as 10% more then their site.

Oh, on the special order, they left THEIR commerical invoice on the box. 59.99 Gasket, costs them $27.67. No charge for shipping.

Now I'm just trying to source a go no-go feeler gauge online that will meet my requirements.

 

Any good parts store should have them
look at any shop that does repairs --or watch for the tool trucks MAtco Mac Snap On- or stop and ask your shop when the tool guys come by. Its always the same day of the week and time, you can drive down the row of car dealers and find one of 3 brands there for sure.

Kragen- always take the web price printout with you to the store. They match it or beat it!

 

Trying to find one online, all this running around is taking more time then the valve adjustment will. I do have to work.

Is the feeler gauge the only method?

 

How do I turn the engine over to line up the cylinders?

 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

Think this will work?

 

yes thats the right tool for the job! - those are good ones.

To turn the engine requires a big socket and bar on the crank pulley bolt- same one you remove to change the crank pulley.
I think there are acess panels to the back of the cam gears- those have line-up dots for different cylinders, to indicate when its a TDC- you still have to verify its on the resting stroke for both valves- easy to be off 180 degrees and try to adjust~

On other cars I used a `remote starter switch` to ~bump~ the engine around to the next cylinder, need to see what the book says for the TL about that.
Who has a gen2 or 3 manual and can scan the valve adjustment pages for us PLEASE!!!

 

another great example of the dealership not knowing shit.

 

My helm book gives no guidence on turning the motor over. On the right timing belt there is signs for cyl 1-6, lining them up to the white line means there are at the right spot to be adjusted.

I'm ok with trying to 'bump' the motor with the starter though that might be difficult. It's probably not that good consider all that is disconnected to do this.

Thoughts?

Can I attempt to turn the motor via the timing belt pully?

 

Do not turn the pulleys on the cam end manually. You should only try to turn the engine using the crank pulley bolt. If you have two people it's easier to just have one of them bump the motor with the key while the other watches the timing mark. Take your time and if you overshoot the timing mark just go around again.

Oh and disconnect the plugs before you do this. If the engine were to start with the valve cover off it will spray oil all over the place. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Way back in the day I had a 68 mustang with a 302. So much easier with those cars. You could just take the valve covers off, put on a different pair that were cut open along the top, turn on the motor, and then adjust it while it runs, turn it down till it stops clacking and then give it a quarter turn or something like that.

What gaskets did you get to do the job?

 

Tom, I don't know if you got incorrect info, or if you mistyped, but the exhaust should be set on the loose side, intakes-middle to low end of spec. There are some honda/acura techs that recommend going .001-.002 over spec. on int. and exh., but I've never had to do it. Other than that, great info., especially on the go/no go gauges. They are especially helpful to someone who doesn't have a lot of experience with adjusting valves. Congrats [a little late] on your 10k posts. I don't know how you find the time.

 

Fel Pro, since my gaskets are only 10k old there is a good chance they will still be like new. I'll inspect, and if required replacement.

I also got an intake manifold gasket incase something goes wrong. Wouldn't want ot have to wait 2-3 days to put it back together.

 

I got the info on adjustent recently- was either on azine or a specific tech forum.
I bow to anyone who is an actual -employed as a honda tech-- for the best settings/ procedure on a TL
as I am just a guy who used to work on cars

 

where do I find the time? read the Trophy carefully for the answer~

 

thinking about it- my tech info may have been for the bike and adjusting its valves.
Lots of talk on exhaust valve runs hotter so you want the adjustment set,,,, instead of.
Must have transferred the thought process over to the acura
Set them in spec is the key~

DO NOT turn the camshaft pullies-GREAT way top destroy the timing belt and more

find the official repair book- scans, buried in azine= I know I read them in the last 6 months on thread about valve adjustments- and read up-

you dont know the cylinder is a top dead center- or 180 degrees off just by looking at the marks- you have to feel each valve adjuster for looseness- both must be loose or you are 180 off
IF- the book allows for bumping the starter- forget the key!
get a remote starter switch $10- its a push button trigger you hold in your hand- the leads go to the starter and battery hot- hit the button- the starter cranks and turns the engine- tap the button- literally tap it against the car- get super slow increments of motion a few degrees at a time. This is how its been done on every car with this type valve adjustment- in my lifetime.
Note- you will be turning the engine fully over several times to get each cylinder in line for adjustment

ahh- thats what I was going to do!!- copy the bike page - the adjustment procedure was really well pic'd and defined there- as referance of what your getting into.

 

So I re-set the ECU do you think this one sounds any better?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yedHjJSQN4I

 

that is loud as hell!

 

you need to drive it after the reset - not just sit- it still has to relearn everything

There is a special shortcut procedure in the 2001 TL manual- look in Emissions Testing
(may be in other years book too, but its in mine for sure)
everyone knows the link to all the manuals acura ever made right?!
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp

It involves driving on the freeway with steady foot- not cruise-do a few things, then some backroads drive with accell/decel a certain way etc.
Takes about 30 minutes and preps the car for a smog test-
if you had a CEL and pulled the battery cable or clock fuse to clear it- the smog machine gets a code ECU not ready for a few days afterwards- no stored data.
So this procedure will force a fast learn. Otherwise it can take 500 miles of normal driving for the system to relearn.

As for the new video- I thought the noise was on passenger side before?
If you can go slowly cylinder to cylinder that may help act as a stethascope for the rest of us.
Look up the Purge Seleniod Valve in the repair book- see where its located and listen to it- they go bad and make a weird click
Sound transfers thru metals and plastics- where you hear it with your naked ear is not the same as the pinpoint of the stethascope
Perhaps - a 2 person effort- one films with ears of scope at mic for camera
YOU place tip along the route of valves and noise sources
Whats it sound like when you do that with your ears and the right tool?
Thats going to cut down the guessing fast!!! info!!!
And you are going to run it on 91 now? With maybe 4oz seafoam to the intake to clean it up, SUSPECT the 87 caused detonation you are not aware of- lets start clean/fresh.
And some in the gas- can in 1/2 tank- get the everythings clean.
You said last week that the oil filter felt very heavy- heavier than normal, after driving 100 miles with foam in the engine oil- right--so could be a lot of sludge in your engine overall.

The MID instant readings are fun- but do they reflect the actual mileage total?
Rob- what do you do- drive to reno at 65? There must be more hills from my direction because its a gas fiend on that trip~

Maybe I will pull parts off the engine to clean this weekend and see if anything helps.
Darn sticky tires-

 

the amazing part is your great freeway mileage, even into the mountains, while having a strange engine noise

Need to use a handheld gps and check its instant speed readings and overall distance against the cars system

 

And why is that?

 

Im to lazy to look at the other posts but take a 19mm socket and place it on the crank bolt.

 

dont forget to put a big 1/2 drive ratchet with some length/leverage on that 19mm socket ~
And be prepared to crank on it a lot

Or buy a 10 dollar Remote Starter Switch- and be able to let a machine do the work for you.
The very small amount of wear on the starter is better than the crawling and reaching you will do otherwise. IMO of course

 

Because....if i'm not mistaken, the OP was told by the dealership that the TL's valves are self adjusting

 

I drive this between 75 and 85mph. I have a GPS (laptop M$ version) and my speedo is off 1-3mph according to that. Haven't checked total trip.

I've gotten great mileage with non hilly runs as well. It's all about the driving.

Right now because I'm horsing around with the car in the city and idling it in the garage I'm only getting about 22-24mpg.

 

I haven't done this in about 2 weeks. If memory serves me it's louder in some areas then others. But it's the 'clicking' noise on the engine block and nowhere else.

We could try with the camera, maybe this weekend.

I'm really trying to figure out how I can get out of opening the motor up. But if between then and July 19 I cannot figure it out; I'll tear it open.

 

OH and I'm running 87 gas. I can switch over next week to 91 and reset the ECU again to see if it takes care of it.

We're going camping next weekend, about 400-500 miles in driving. So I'll empty the tank this weekend, fill with 91, reset the ECU again and go on our adventure.

 

I have switch over to 91 oc. Reset the ECU and done some driving. The motor sounds the same. I'm starting to believe these opinions on 87vs.91 are a lot of hot air; aside from power performance.

My motor sounds the same no matter what grade of gas I put it. Will do valve work on the 19th and report back.

 

you and hot air. Its NOT hot air. Only to you is it.

And ill throw this out there. Now what if its the 87 that has ruined or carboned up your valves giving you these issues??? OPEN the valve covers and have them adjusted. Have a compression test done as well.

 

when a valve is damaged from detonation or similar low fuel grade issues-
a cylinder leak- down test will reveal more info- use that with a compression test to determine how bad the problem really is

If you have a type S motor with its higher 11-1 compresssion----there could be bad news awaiting you on further inspection