http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=18503

Has anyone seen this thread by psmart2? He shows a pix of a Escort 8500 installed, and it looks great, like factory installed. He uses the "blank button" by the gauge light adjuster which is under the fog light and cruise control.

I have bought an 8500 with a direct wire smartcord, and want to do it right. Anyone know how to do the proper install?

 

The photo of the install is about half way down the page of the thread attachment.

 

Damn....now that makes me rethink about my setup.

 

After seeing the original post by psmart2, I decided to install the same way. It was a bit more complicated than I anticipated...

(1) After removing the driver's panel and then unscrewing the blank button, I found that it was not completely open on the back. The button is fairly deep (>1 inch) and has center fin molded into it, from front to rear. I used a rotary tool to grind out the center fin, leaving the button completely open and hollow when viewed from the rear.

(2) I then dissasembled The Passport 8500 remote display. A mute button, two LED's, and various electrical components are mounted on a small (1 inch x 1 inch) circuit board. I made measurements on the blank button face to drill holes for the mute button and 2 LED's to stick through. Not too tough, but you do need to take your time lining them up right - you only get one chance here

(3) Next I attempted to insert the circuit board into the blank button to test my drilled holes, but I found that because of the shape of the circuit board (the original housing has a slanted front) it would not slide into the hollowed out rear . To make matters worse, I couldn't cut slots in the button walls to provide space because the part of the circuit board which was causing it not to fit would then protrude out of the front of the dash . The only way to make it fit was to cut off the front right corner of the circuit board (using the rotary tool), cutting across two traces. I then re-soldered two wire connections which were orphaned by the surgery. The modified board fit neatly into the hollow rear of the blank button, and I found that my drilled holes lined up perfectly! . Attaching the original housing's overlay completes a factory-look installation

(4) Finally, I used hot-melt glue to secure the board within the button cavity (making sure to position so that the mute button is functional), screwed the button back onto the driver's panel, re-mounted the panel, and ran the electrical. I tapped into the stereo's switched power on the driver's side fuse box (yel/blk wire on connector O, position 11 - this connector is light green and a little more than halfway back on the inside of the driver's side fuse box) and used a convenient chassis screw for a ground point. All that was left was to run the radar cord up the A pillar and across to my detector. I chose to mount my detector high on the windshield, as far left as possible (right next to the pillar). The installation works great

Now that I think of it, I should have taken pictures during the process, but I don't want to unassemble now because of the glue. I also was very busy this weekend, because at the same time I installed new speakers all around (Infinity 652i 6.5" 2-ways in the rear doors, 605cs 6.5 component woofers in the front doors, and 1" component tweeters on the side-view mirror covers), and bypassed the BOSE EQ so that I could use the OEM headunit's amps with a flat output. Simply replacing the speakers without bypassing the EQ results in very exaggerated high-end (the crazy EQ setting is how BOSE gets some facsimile of high-end out of those 1-way 6" paper cones). I can't believe what a difference it made - it's like night and day! Even more amazing given that I have only added speakers, and am using the factory headunit and amps. All and all a great weekend of tinkering

 

Wow! Thanks djsteve. Appears you're very knowledgable. I am not, but think if I take my time with you instructions, I should be able to do it. Also appreciate speaker specs on the stereo. I am not crazy about the sound. Thanks again

 

No problem, just remember to take your time. The two most critical points are drilling the holes (no explanation needed) and cutting the circuit board. Before cutting the circuit board, look for the green and black wires that attach to the board (along with several others) along the right side, as viewed from the top with the LED's facing you. The green and black are near the front, on the right edge. Study the front and back of the board around where these wires connect, paying attention to the traces which they connect to. You will need to cut off the corner of the board such that you orphan those two wire connections, but no other wires or components. Before cutting, follow the bottom board traces (look like small "roadways") on which each of the two wires are attached. You need to determine another point on the same trace to which you can re-solder them once you have cut their section of the board off. Any other solder point on the same trace is useable, but when soldering be sure not to apply heat for too long, or you may damage the other components. GOOD LUCK

 

I am having the "near factory look" install of the smart wire for my 8500 detector tomorrow. They are only charging $65! That includes the typical hard wiring, but also to screw with the circuitry and cut the wires. I will take some photos as they go along and post it to this thread.

To see what it looks like, take a look at this thread about half way down the page. It looks great.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showt...&threadid=18503

We can all argue till we're blue in the face about which detector is the best (ie Escort 8500, Valentine or Bel), but who can argue with this install! I hate wires, but want the best detector as possible. I realize there are "built-in" detectors, but the testing shows they don't compete with the dashboard units.

Will post pixs tomorrow. Out.

 

Who's "THEY". For 65 bucks hell yeah Id do it too. Then all I need is another set of mounting brackets and I could have the mounting bracket and power cord ready to go in the case if I ever need to temporarily transplant it.

 

Good luck, Nickchop, and let us know how it turns out. FYI, I just posted a picture of my install here:

http://acura-tl.com/forum/showthread...8&pagenumber=2

The LED's look a bit weird because of the long exposure time, but you get the picture. Many thanks to psmart2 who first posted this install idea. It wasn't easy to duplicate, but it looks great!

 

You have about 12 hours to get here to Jacksonville, Florida if you want to do it for $65. If I don't here from you by 8 am, I'll have to go to the the original installer as scheduled.

Well, my time is worth more than the $65. To each their own!

I don't think you read the thread. The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area, not "bracket mounted".

But I think you would agree if you read the entire thread by djsteve. He obviously is electronically gifted. I am not! It would take me all day to do this and even then it might not work. I don't have soldering equipment. "They" are a auto stereo install company.

djsteve- great work! I checked out your pix's they look great. I will tackle the speakers next (via someone else doing the work).

 

I find it ironic whenever someone replies to my posts implying I didnt read the thread without them fully understanding what I'm even replying to (acually, its beginning to be quite aggrevating).

I KNOW "The smartcord is permanently installed within the blank button area." In no way was I implying it wasnt. All I was saying was that this mod would be great so I could STORE my EXISTING cord BACK IN THE BOX so that I MAY in the future just bring the box with me without having to remove anything from my TLS BUT the acuall detector itself. When I mentioned that it would be great to have another bracket, I meant the bracket that the 8500 rests on with the silicone cups, so that I wont have to take anything out (correct me if I'm wrong, but my 8500 only came with 1 mounting bracket). All I have to do to transplant the 8500 to another vehicle would be to unplug it from the OBVIOUSLY PERMINENT smart cord, and slide it out of the EXISTING mounting bracket. No more would I have to reattach the cups in the precise location I want, and no more fumbling around with the coiled power cord.

In no way was I offering 65 dollars for labor and why would I? (Again it was pretty obvious to me that you are in the other side of the nation...duh!). I re-read my message and I could imagine why you would think that, but all you had to do was CONTINUE to read my post and judge by context that, that was not what I was implying. For 65 bucks I would do it too, meant, I would pay that much for services rendered to get my 8500 setup the same way as djsteve and yourself. Now, when I asked who "they" were, I was literally asking who was going to install it for you. Reason is, if it was say, Circuit City, or Sears Automotive, or any major brand electronics/stereo shop, THEN MAYBE I CAN GET IT DONE FOR ME ALSO FOR 65 bucks.

In no way is this post meant to flame anyone, I'm just tired of having to re-read and re-write my posts to people who dont carefully read them and instantly write a message back within 5 minutes to retaliate.

OK ok...I'm gonna chill now

 

edgalang - After further review it sounds like where on the same wave length! Right on! Yeah the installer is a local shop. I was willing to spend up to $150, so I was pleased. Sorry about the miscommunication.

 

heh heh.. I'd even go as far as 150 to do it also but thats sorta reaching it's limits already (tax and everything included). Damn, I'm just jealous that you are able to get it done for so cheap, not alone done at all.

 

djsteve, regarding speakers:

I swear I'm not stalking you. I admit I am copying you! I found the Infinity speakers on-line @ Crutchfield.com. Is $199 for the front and $99 for the rear a decent price? Thanks.

 

That is a good price, but definitely not the best you can find. I actually got mine at a local Circuit City store for less (they were on sale), so you might try there also. I was in a hurry to get the speakers so that I could install them - if you have the time I'm sure you can find a good deal elsewhere on the internet.

 

Install is finished. djsteve, the installer took the green and black wires and passed them through the hole left where the housing screw was and soldered them on the bottom side. It took just under an hour. I was impressed. He is going to do my DVD/TV and speaker work.

The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.

 

Sorry about that. That may be a bit too large. Let's try that again...

Install is finished. djsteve, the installer took the green and black wires and passed them through the hole left where the housing screw was and soldered them on the bottom side. It took just under an hour. I was impressed. He is going to do my DVD/TV and speaker work.

The first picture is the top of the board after it is removed from the housing.

 

The second is the bottom of the board. Notice the bottom left of picture where the "cut-out" is.

 

The third is the final product of the blank button install.

 

The fourth is the radar location.

 

Very clean looking install, nickchop - congrats! I hope my instructions were helpful during the "surgery".

I'm glad you took some pictures - it better illustrates what I was trying to describe in words. BTW, I used the same center hole to pass through the two wires.

 

Why are my attached pixs the worst quality of any photos on these boards? I have a Canon Powershot 3.34 megapixel. How do I make it a better quality?

 

That's a decent camera, so don't worry, you can fix the quality problem. Looks to me like either your camera and/or any editing programs you used afterwards is/are set to save the pictures with a high level of JPEG compression. Look for a setting that might be labeled something like "quality" or "filesize", and increase it a bit. If it indicates a percentage, 70-80% is usually the sweet spot without making the filesize large. The first picture is blurry only because the camera autofocused on the background

 

Thanks for all the helpful Info guys...

One thing I did find to help out a bit, after hot gluing the circuit board in was to add in small rubber beads and then seal the outside of the cover up. I found that the hot glue held fairly well right now, but I thought it might losen up in the long run, now I have a really tight seal in there, and absolutely no play in the button at all.

 

Great to hear that your install worked out! The final result looks so clean that it is worth the extra effort involved...

-djsteve

 

I am attempting to do this modification. I have cut the circuit board and re-attached the wires. I have also drilled the holes in the blank button.

My question is how did you attach the circuit board back in the button so that it does not move. Saw that someone used hot glue, but what did you glue. Please post specific instructions on how you attached.

Thanks

 

Hi dj5,

I'm assuming that you have already removed the center fin from the back of the blank button cavity. If so, the easiest way to secure the modified circuit board is simply to fill the entire back cavity of the blank button with hot-melt glue once the board has been aligned within it. It is fine to encase the entire circuit board in a bubble of hot-melt glue...won't hurt a thing. Feel free to use a whole stick! Three things to ensure are:

(1) The board is properly aligned such that the mute button protrudes through the front and is able to be depressed without scraping the sides of the hole.

(2) The hot-melt glue doesn't run around the mute button, which would prevent it from being depressed.

(3) Hold the whole assembly in place while the glue dries, which can take several minutes if you use a decent amount.

Good luck!
-djsteve

 

Thanks djsteve, I have removed the fin from the button and will try the hot glue this weekend. Have to go by Home Depot or Michael's to pick up a glue gun. Will let you know how it turns out.

 

more pics?

 

djsteve, I finished my Escort blank button project this weekend.

Everything went well and it is now installed. I attached the circuit board in the button cavity using double sided mounting tape. Seem to be holding well. I was afraid that I would glue the mute button closed if I used the hot glue.

I also moved the dimming button to where the blank button was located. Gives me a little better access to the mute button.

Thanks again, I would have never have tried this mod. without your directions.

My Pilot exhaust tips should be in Monday. This should be an easy mod. Also thinking about the body kit.

 

congrats, dj5! Glad the instructions were helpful. Good luck with your other mods...

 

That's not a bad idea. Can I do that with a V1. I was thinking I can do that same thing like djsteve except put the detector on the Driver side.

 

Doesn't the radar detector lose a little effectiveness when it's behind the tint like that? Cuz I know my rear detection on my V1 is kind of ****ty, but maybe it's just like that for rear?

 

No it doesn't lose it's effectiveness with the tint. However, I wouldn't go through the hassle or expense of this install again. I never use the mute button underneath. I still use the mute on the actual unit. The only thing I would do is hardwire the unit so you don't have to use the lighter plug.

 

Sup peoples. Do you folks know if I can do this mod with a Valentine1