Hey all I am probably going to redo my brakes soon and I was going to go with Rotora Slotted Rotors but after reading in a few threads that alot of places would probably not turn slotted rotors I got kind of worried. How did all you guys with slotted maintain them? Just change pads regularly or did you find a shop that would turn them? I don't have alot of money so if it was the difference between having them turned or having to buy a new set I would hate to have to buy all new rotors. Do the slotted ones usually last longer so it kind of evens out in the end? Or do you just have to change pads pretty frequently to make sure the rotors don't get warped? I think mine are warped right now but they are original OEM. I would appreciate anyone's . Thanks.

 

you can turn slotted, drilled, or both for rotors. i did it twice, went to o'riely's, no issues. just understand that a bit of the "cooling" effect will be lost, but i doubt your a hard core racer and they were more for looks so you most likely wouldn't notice anything.

 

I have over 75k on mine and there was/is no need to turn them.

 

What exactly does it mean to "turn" the rotors? And why does this extend the life of the rotors? Wouldn't there still be some wobbling when braking?

 

"turning" the rotors is when you shave down the surface to make it smooth again. And yes you should not have any wobbling after they are turned.

 

Turning means cutting the surface down for a straight contact patch. Over time, brake pad material accumulates on the contact surface of the rotor and that's what causes vibrations under braking. By turning the rotors, you once again cut the surface smooth and straight.

Now the problem with the drilled and/or slotted rotors is that while cutting the rotors, those holes and slots get in the way. Some places won't do it, while others do, I guess, as RickRouch said.

Keep in mind that with quality aftermarket rotors, even if they are slotted and/or drilled, their life expentancy before requiring turning is much longer than the stock blank discs. I have Rotora rotors all around and even after very abusive driving, they still don't have any sign of needing to be turned.

 

Thanks for the clarification guys
So that sounds to me like it's what the dealership calls resurfacing... correct?




and what they tried to get me to pay $195 for on the oem rotors...

 

^^ yea when i found out it gonna cost me round that (10 per rotor if i do it myself, for blanks) i decided to go slotted/drilled....no more car anymore, so we see what happens to the nex tone..

 

So how often do you guys usually change your break pads abouts? I was planning on using satisfied pro ceramics.

 

when ever they are shot. usually 60-75k for the fronts for me and 100-110k for the rears for me

 

general rule of thumb is to turn the rotors each time you change the pads, that way the new pads bed in properly and the rotors are "fresh", but there is only so much "turning" you can do, they have to be withing a certain thickness or tolerance, normally you can turn them about once, maybe twice, for slotted/drilled, but that depends on pad aggresiveness. on my last stang, the power slot rotors lasted about 15k, turned them at 10k with new pads and at about 15k the slots were about done, again, with pad aggresivness, on an acura, you should be good for about 100k i'd say.

 

Dug this old thread up in attempt to figure out what to do. (and it's always better to post in an existing thread than to start a new one)..anyway..

I replaced my front pads/rotors at 80k. I installed Rotora slotted rotors and Acura OEM pads. I broke them in and about 12k miles later they started to slightly shudder. I now have hit 98k and of course there's no change. It's kind of aggravating to buy a performance rotor and still have it warp slightly so soon. It's not extremely bad but it is noticeable....it's not the smooth braking it once had.

What do I do? Turn the slotted ones or go with something else? These rotors were 200 bucks and now my back pads are shot. I'm just cleaning those rotors and reinstalling OE pads; not too worried about those. I hate to spend alot more $ on the front though.

 

Have you tried to bed them in? Make sure the lugnuts are torqued properly

 

Nevermind...had to edit my post. I read online on the process of bedding the brakes. Will it still work? The pads/rotors have been on a year and been on for 18k miles.

 

Bedding them in won't do anything at this point. Turn them. 18k on the rotors should be fine for that. Then after they have been turned bed them in. I don't know how much of a difference bedding in the OEM pads will make though.

 

Re-bedding works if you had a situation causing the pads to suddenly glaze- that doesnt sound like the case here
Try using Rotoras pads on their rotor- matched parts work better- contact Excelerate for them. Good brake pads are worth the money
Rear rotors are 15 bucks each- replace them!
And as many of us are finding- these calipers do wear out, cause imbalance in braking that will drive you crazy searching for- make you blame the new rotors!!!----

and it turns out a spec of contamination was in the fluid after 5 years of no change- and it cut the tiny o ring that is the pressure seal for the caliper piston and........then the other had to work overtime to stop the car.....

 

Where are rear rotors 15 bucks each? Autozone's crappy Duralast are $34 ea. and the premium ones are like 100. Acura's OE's run about 80 each also.

 

napa was 15 for the usa made- I changed them tracking a shake prob but they were OK
now kragen- chinese made 13$ each are doing well in the rear. I dont see them in the online store, but I went direct to the local store and ordered them -next day arrived at store

I run my serious brakes in the front!

 

napa is now $25 for the good ones, $22 for the cheapies. Actually I think they're importing all of their rotors now (just like CSK and 'Zone).