Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great information. Picked up Satin Silver yesterday and having a hard time keeping the speed down. Is there a recommended top speed during breakin ? I also heard you should not use the SS but didn't see that in the manual anywhere. Can someone define "hard acceleration" ?

 

There are a couple other threads discussing this. I will summarize what I have done to break in my TLS, as instructed by the dealer and what I've seen on this site:

- No revving above 5000 rpm
- No hard braking
- Try to vary the rpm while driving

I've had my TLS up to about 85 several times. Of course, this is no strain on the engine, because it's only turning about 2500 rpms in 5th. I have never heard not to use the sport shirt from a reliable source. In fact, I have been using it to vary the engine RPM, i.e. sometimes on the freeway I'll put it in 4th, or leave it in 3rd on side streets, etc.

Of course, if you are paranoid about using SS, you could accomplish the same thing using D4, D3, etc.

 

My dealer told me to get it up to 147 mph daily for 600 miles, flooring it every time and slamming on the brake right before a stop. So far so good, just a couple metallic pinging noises from the engine, some fluid leaks, and a weird rubbery smell. Nothing a little loud music, duct tape, and pine car scent hangtags can't cure!!!

: )

 

I forgot to mention - my dealer also told me only to use odd-numbered gears during the first 300 miles and even-numbered gears during the second 300 miles.

The last week has sucked with only 2nd and 4th, but I only have 12 miles to go before I'm out of the breakin. Wish I had waited for the 6 speed so I would have a little more variety this week.

 

Interesting Mike... my dealer told me the SAME thing.. I actually thought he was joking!!??

He also mentioned that I might consider keeping the trunk wide open -- he said the wind resistance would prevent me from going TOO fast -- and you know how that can be on gear 2&4 days... not so bad on 1&3 days though.

I'm taking the car in again. I need to get my hood put on -- the dealer kept it -- he said it'd cool the engine better during breakin if he took the hood off.. Go figure, I've never owned an Acura before, so I assume this is all pretty standard stuff for all you previous Acura owners.

 

My dealer told me that at every stop to put it in neutral and floor it and then "Pop" it into drive while still flooring it.

This is done in order to properly "Seat" the rings or something like that.

1000 miles so far and it's been LOTS of fun!!!

 

Lawrence --

Hmmm... I thought i read that in the manual -- I actually thought it was a joke -- but then I says to myself "but this is the MANUAL!"...

I'll start doing it --

oh, update: Leakage is increased, smell is unbearable -- upping the hangtags and ducttape... LOVE THIS CAR!!

 

Don't forget to do this for reverse too.

Just put it in neutral and floor it then "gently" position it into reverse.

 

If I get about three, maybe four months outta this TL-S, I'd say that's one hell of a deal:

31,710 for three months of trouble-free, reliable Honda engineering? Not bad.

 

Heck yeah Peter. I'm happy to get 3 months outta mine.

I get a wierd clanking noise though now that's getting annoying but again, that bose system really cranks. Smart thinking ACURA!!!

 

I'm very thankful as to the advice on this site. While I had read the manual very carefully, I couldn't find the explicit details that are here. I've begun to bring up the tachometer to more-or-less the red value, then put the car in reverse. While it seems to make a somewhat alarming sound, I certainly think you fellows know your "car stuff", so I'll keep following your advice. Should I be bringing the engine up to a maximum position on the tachometer before putting it in "Drive"? Please respond (before the clanking and "funny" smell goes away). I want this car to last a long time!

 

You guys should be careful what you say here. Somebody could actually be reading this shit and think it is true.

------------------
"In my ghetto ain't no rainbow or pots of gold
But there was love from the family when times where cold
I sit and analyze the world from my project roof
And see the hope in the eyes of a troubled youth"

 

PETER!! I did not realize that you had discovered the........*speed break*

:-jon

 

You guys have it all wrong. The part of the rpm gauge highlighted in red is what you use during the breakin period. Use the white part the rest of the time.

 

Before the more "informative" posts to this thread, I was going to put it in the Type S FAQ, but I don't think that is such a good idea anymore.

 

Enough bad advice already! You people should know better than this! Do you realize how many blown motors and trannies you could be causing if some poor dumb schmuck believed all this crap?

 

Oblio, Larry, Mike --

I can't understand one thing though -- I don't understand what those servicemen find so particularly funny each time i leave w/ my car... I had to bring it in again because the "flam-shooter" was strung up in the "region-oid" .. the service-guy said it was all very very technical, and I'd need a degree in .. what was it that he said .. "dumbassotomy".. i dunno if that's right, he said it all so fast.. anyways, I ended up paying 564.34 for the service, and apparently it isn't covered under warranty. I am not regretting taking it in.. only another two months to go w/ this car -- I hope it'll last. I'm still very satisfied!

Lonny, I don't understand? Bad advice? I'm just following the service guys' advice as well as what the manual says -- it's clear as day!

BTW -- how often do you guys suggest I sand down the hood and re-apply the krylon white spray paint?? I heard it's better to get two or three coats within the first month of ownership to insure the paint will resist the high engine heat. Thanks in advance!


<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by PeterUbers on April 21, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

You guys forgot to discuss breaking in the suspension. You need to make sure you exercise the full range of suspension travel. Find a hilly road, where you can catch some air with your TL. If you don't test the top and bottom suspension stops, how can you be sure it'll work. Also run through a few potholes so you can find out if you have any defective rims or tire sidewalls.

Remember, it is important to do this all again when you lower your car...


<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by khenault on April 21, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

khenault --

one step ahead of ya buddy -- Though, my rims are pretty darn scuffed up and scratched at this point --- nothing a couple thousand dollars won't fix!! Hell, money is the ultimate fix for just about every problem I've had for this TL-S -- not bad for a $30K car!! I'm still tickled pink over the power!

 

This HAS to be the funniest thread ever!!!!

 

Funny shit.

 

Somehow I feel like I'm the butt of someone's cruel, tasteless joke.

 

You forgot to mention the "bumper" test and the "underwater" test.

The TLS's bumpers are built to withstand a 60 mph impact. One way to test their structural integrity would be to drive into a wall @60 mph, preferably concrete. Alterntaively, you could try rear-ending the first cop car that you see on the road (all cop cars are equipped with similar bumpers) for a more realistic simulation of an actual collission.

For those of you that didn't know, the TLS is also water resistant to 100 meters. Find the nearest beach and drive in gradually, just be careful not to go too deep.

 

I don't feel too safe driving the car without tires anymore. My Acura service guy suggested I take the tires off to break in the rims themselves. I'm not sure how he'll fix the scratches and the bending of the rim metal -- but like I've said before -- I'm a first time Acura owners here, so I'm outta my element on this one. Anyone else driving without tires?? I notice a SERIOUS acceleration difference and the handling is .. sketchy at best. Wonder where the 260 horses went??!