I want to start driving my 2003 TL-S and just wanted some opinions on whether i need to do the timing belt. Too lazy to check the mileage, but its something like 43k if i remember correctly. I'm hoping to just change the oil and coolant and just commute to work with it.

In your opinion do timing belts fail more due to age or mileage?

Edit, I actually have all the original belts and last i checked (about a year ago, zero additional miles) they were all in good shape.

thanks

 

They are both pretty solid reasons to change them but I would personally count AGE as the more serious issue.. Timing Belts are made of Rubber and rubber dries out and crack. If you are comfortable with a wrench you can remove the upper timing belt cover and visually inspect it but that wont tell you how good it is from the inside.

I will advice you to change it ASAP.. Engines aren´t cheap and by the depreciation of the TL-S you are looking at a Totaled scenario if the timing belt snaps.

 

Has the car been garaged its whole life? Seems it wasn't driven much at all so if it sat outside the whole time to me that is more of a factor.

 

But arent timing belts reinforced with kevlar or something like that? Surely they would last much longer the the accesory drive belts?

I once used an old timing belt that had been laying behind my garage for a few years to pull my dual axle enclosed trailer loose after the jack had frozen to the ground. This is after i broke a cheap 1.5" tow strap. This was a chrysler timing belt but i imagine honda belts are built the same?

I'm the original owner, garaged its whole life. I've driven it maybe 200 miles over the last 6-7 years. I drained and refilled the gas tank 2 years ago, which was a pain so i'd rather just drive it now. I guess i didnt initially consider all the other fluids and belts as it was sitting. Which is why im trying to decide what needs to be touched now that i want to begin driving it again. I changed the oil with mobil 1 maybe 4-5 years ago. So i hoping to get away with just changing the coolant before i start using it for my 25 mile round trip commute, garage to parking garage.

 

So far as fluids go, I would do them all before using the car much. Bleed the brake fluid, drain the coolant, do the oil again, power steering ffluid. The t-belt is essentially twice the time frame it is supposed to go but I've had similiar low mileage Acuras with belts at the same age (~14yrs) and they were fine. But they were also garage kept. Being garaged it does help a lot being out of the elements/temp extremes. 200 miles in 7 years is kinda bad though for many things not being lubricated/exercised/etc. Mine have low mileage but I make it a point to get them out and about every couple weeks.
But I would plan to get the tbelt done soon along with thermostat, other belts, tensioners, water pump.

 

Great, thanks!

 

I see you are in nj as well? I assume your car must be pretty mint?

 

While re-inforced with Kevlar that doesn´t mean they are a lifetime product the 7 year lifespan is already very generous.
Also that timeframe also takes in consideration that the hydraulic tensioner can leak over time, Seals dry out when not in use (Waterpump).

So like I said you can remove the upper Timing Belt cover and inspect the belt.. If I wanted to skip the timing belt job I would just replace the belt and leave everything else intact. BUT NOT Ride the belt more than the 7 year lifespan expected by Honda which like I said, ITS VERY GENEROUS.

You can in theory just skip it but its like playing with fire, the consequence is very extreme (Losing an Engine).

 

13yr Honda tech here. I agree with the above reply. The belt is very easy to replace if you have some mechanical knowledge. No fancy tools, no special procedures (besides lining up timing marks) to worry about. It's a 60 dollar belt. Not worth the risk.

However, I have never seen a t-belt failure from time or age. I have seen belt failures from contamination. Water pumps will leak on the belt, oil pump seals will leak on to the belt.

The cost of the belt vs the cost of an engine should make it a no brainer, I personally do not risk it even though I never see failures. Your call. However I've seen lots (almost every single one) of tensioners leak and no longer provide good tension. Typically you'll hear a knocking noise as it's dead.

As a long time Honda tech, my advice is as follows, REPLACE THE BELT, TENSIONER, AND WATER PUMP. every 90k miles or 6yrs.

 

Fine, i'll do it. is there anything else i need besides the idler, tensioner, water pump, and belt? do i need any seals or gaskets? what about the hydraulic assembly (i guess the part that goes with the tensioner)? and Gates everything is okay or do i need OEM?


yeah. It has two light door dings and some spider cracks in the paint at the corner of the rear bumper, but otherwise its as mint as you'd expect from a car with 43k miles that was clay bar'd regularly while it was being driven, doesn't have windshield wipers, seen only 3 winters, and was detailed before it was parked.

 

Also since you guys are being helpful. opinions on changing the thermostat and spark plugs?

BTW i hate preventative maintenance.. reminds me of my bmws...

 

You can always just wait until things break and then fix them then. Saves money in the present, leave the problems for future you.

 

Get this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKH-001...ype=automotive
The only thing it lacks OEM is the Timing Belt which is GATES, The Aisin Kit includes a Mitsuboshi (Yes its spelled right) Belt., OEM Waterpump, OEM Idler pulley (KOYO) and Tensioner Pulley (KOYO) and OEM Tensioner.. Get the OEM Belt instead and you are set for a complete OEM Kit.

The extra stuff you need is the T-STAT and 3 gallons of OEM Antifreeze.
Optionally: Camshaft and Crankshaft O-Rings (Pretty darn cheap) and Spark Plugs (NGK Iridium IX Recommended).

 

Leave cam seals alone. I have yet to see some leaking. You need to remove the cam pulleys and rear plate to replaced them, more work than you really need to deal with. Crank seals I've never seen leak on the J series, but the oil pump seals will leak. This is a much bigger job as you'll need to take the oil pan off and the front oil pump housing to fix this. With a hoist at work and after doing 20+ pump reseals, it still takes me 5-7 hours (pending my energy).

I'd do belt, OE or Gates are ok, water pump, OEM tensioner and pulleys if you want. I've seen a few go bad, but not many.

 

Wow no kidding? Yikes. It looks like my oil pan gasket and oil pump gasket are leaking. Was thinking of taking care of both of them at once. Looked like it wasn't going to be quick, but if it still takes you that long I'm sure I'd be at it all day. I guess I'll just keep topping off the oil in between changes for now lol.

 

Just finished doing the timing belt, water pump, and all the pulleys. I started last night after work but got frustrated with the rear cover. Otherwise everything went pretty smooth. finished up after dinner today.

I think i could have gone another 10 years on my old belt, it looked pretty damn good. Rubber wasn't hardened and the texture on the teeth looked almost as good as the new belt. I think i'll let this one go for 20 years and see what happens. I appreciate everyones advice and help, it is nice to know i won't have to worry about it now.