I noticed that I had developed a crack on the front center tube of my headers a few months ago. The crack was right by the engine where others had experienced cracks, but I ignored it because it didn't appear to be leaking at all.

Well, I'm coming back from my parents house this afternoon on Hwy 417, and I start to notice a "tick" from my engine. The tick varies with my engine speed and gets a bit louder under more load. Sure enough - it sounds like a header leak.

Here's my question to all of you: Is it worth it to get the headers rewelded (perhaps both inside and out this time), or are the OBX headers a lost cause?

It's not an option to get Comptech headers now - even used. It's probably less expensive to get them rewelded.

Has anyone done this, and how was the outcome?

 

i'd get em welded. damn everyone is havin problems w/ these headers.

 

seems like alot of people are having problems with the OBX headers.... i guess i gotta bite the bullet and get a set of CT's...

hopefully u can get them rewelded and it wont cost u too much!

 

Well as you know now, many, many folks have experienced problems with OBX, you can get them welded over and over again, but you will end up spending more money. Other good headers are:

Comptech
Alpha-works or Alpha-werks(which I heard are very good)
Stone headers

Do some searching on the A-CL board about the other headers I mentioned! Good luck!

 

damn seems like OBX is off my list... guess i gotta get used comptech headers when i save up money

 

done some research on the forums on stone headers: not a great buy. Steel is thin and welds are not anywhere close to CT even though they stole CT's design... Conclusion: save your money and just buy the CT's when a group buy comes along.

 

ive done alot of research on the AW headers and they seem to be a really good "copy" of the CT's.. the only thing is that they are still pretty new and not many guys on the ACL board have used them... ive seen a few accord guys try them out and they havent had any problems... obiously the best way of being safe is to just go with the CT's....

i also read somewhere (cant remember where exactly) but the AW headers are not CARB certified....

 

Rewelding its not expensive, Its no big deal either...go to a muffler shop preferably, they'll have all you need.

They dont even have to remove the header, they'll blowtorch some metalic compound that withstands X,000*F in a way that it will blend with the header (probably the torch is so hot i can fuse both materials) Just a couple of drops, a lotta heat and its done...30minute job...

Oh, the sooner the better, you dont want that crack growing.

How long/how many miles have you had these headers for?

 

Where did you get your information from? Can you provide links? I've had my Stone headers for one year now, and I have no problems whatsoever. For USD $400, it's the best bang for buck headers that won't crap out like the OBX ones. True, CT headers are better quality, but not everyone can afford them. IMHO, the Stone headers give the best value with decent quality.

 

too bad the stone headers were only a group buy. anyone know if they are going to be produced again?

 

Really? Didn't know that. But I heard there have been up to 3 group buys for the Stone headers. There might be a 4th....

 

return them and get your money back

 

I just got a set of alphaworks headers and i installed them on friday. The welds are extremly well done on the inside and out and the gains it pushes are awesome so far. I haven't got to test them too much yet because I went out of town for the weekend w/out my TL. I suggest the Alphaworks if you can find a set.

 

or just tig weld it

 

They lasted about 24,000 miles. I'll call around and talk to a few muffler shops about it. I think if I just get them rewelded on the top 6 tubes (inside and out) they'll so just fine.

 

Damn that's funny cause mine has a little crack in the same place on the center tube.

 

I couldn't see any problems on the front besides the small crack in the center tube, so I decided to get creative. I got my camera and started snapping shots behind the engine - hoping to get the headers.

I found the crack - actually it's a crack with a chip of weld gone. There's a chip of weld that has come off the center tube in the rear. It appears that the center tube is the one with the problems - whether it's front or back.

I printed the photos out so the shop knows exactly what they have to do now.

If someone would host them, I'd post them here.

 

Here are the pics. First, the front - notice the small crack in the center tube weld.




Now the backs - here's where the audible leak is. Again, it's the center tube. I know the pics are a bit fuzzy, but there's not much space back there.

A hairline crack and a chip (that probably happened Sunday so I could hear it).

 

dont see anything!!!!!

 

Fixed!

 

o cmon...i thought the actual weld was gone...thats just a small peace of weld missing, how much did it cost you, $20dollars on a 10minute job?

tell us all about it, i'm sure you'll help many people and me when mine break...i got 3kmiles on mine!!

 

Sorry etxxz, when I wrote fixed I meant the picture problem. I'm going to the shop tomorrow morning.

I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

heh alright, untill then...

 

OK - I got the car back from the shop and the headers are rewelded. The shop decided to reweld the front middle and all three in the rear, as those welds were all starting to crack.

The guy at the shop commented that the welds were quite cheap. The bead was quite small. By the way - this is the shop I've had all of my work done at - so I'm on a first name basis with the guys. I suggested that there might be some process where the headers would not have to be removed from the car and he immediately knew what I meant.

Brazing is not a process you should do to a TL for the following reasons (from shop guy):

1. It's generally not a good idea to braze stainless steel (from my prior work in aerospace, I know all we ever brazed was high tech nickel alloys)
2. You never weld or braze a header while it's on the car - TL = aluminum head = warping =

I would have preferred that they weld all three fronts so they would match (new welds are a lot beefier), but here's the best news.

THE HARMONIC IS GONE! Maybe the cheap welds on the collectors were the culprit after all!

The tab for removal, welding, and reinstallation is about $250. Let's hope this lasts!

 

in other words, the welding cost you about $50 and taking off and putting back on headers was the rest of it...Good to know what igotta do to get mine fixed, IF it happens to me...i hope not [knocking on wood]

Thanks for sharing...+rep point to you

 

Abolutely. If you have these headers and are waiting to get them installed, take them to a shop you know and have the welds inspected and reinforced if necessary. The cost will be minimal, and the area you have to focus on is where the header meets the block.

With my experience, you'll not have a problem with cracks and the resonance will not be an issue.

I seems to have fixed my problems. (Oh - and get all 6 done.)

It seems I have no signature anymore... Here's the specs.

2002 TL-S, Comptech Icebox, OBX headers, UR 3 pulley set, Denso iridium plugs.

230 at the wheel - 14.4 in the quarter.

Later!

 

Great info to know. I have actually noticed a ticking comming from under the hood as well, wasn't sure what it could be. I will inspect mine tomorrow. Can any muffler shop like a meinike or midas perform the welding? AAAAhhhh finally a remedy for that damn resonance....

 

There are a lot of sources of ticking on the TL engine. You'll have to give us details for a better answer.

As far as meineke or midas, yes they can also do the work also. It was my experience that they would not provide a firm price on the procedure. Midas just gave me a shop rate of $75+ an hour and said for the most part "We'll bill you for actual hours."

Find a shop you trust and work with them. Over time, the relationship helps both parties.