what toy do i need to lower my vtec?

i drive city and im rarely in the 4200 rpm range for my 2000 TL, id rather have the vtec at like 2800-3000 rpms, that would be sick

what are some sideeffects of lowerin the vtec point, both positive and negative?

 

I don't think it would be a good idea to lower the VTEC engagement to that RPM range. VTEC switches between two cam profiles, one designed for low RPM and one for high RPM.

It turns out that there is significant relationship between the way the lobes are ground on the camshaft and the way the engine performs in different rpm (rotations per minute) ranges. To understand why this is the case, imagine that we are running an engine extremely slowly -- at just 10 or 20 rpm, so it takes the piston seconds to complete a cycle. It would be impossible to actually run a normal engine this slowly, but imagine that we could. We would want to grind the camshaft so that, just as the piston starts moving downward in the intake stroke, the intake valve would open. The intake valve would close right as the piston bottoms out. Then the exhaust valve would open right as the piston bottoms out at the end of the combustion stroke and would close as the piston completes the exhaust stroke. That would work great for the engine as long as it ran at this very slow speed.

When you increase the rpm, however, this configuration for the camshaft does not work well. If the engine is running at 4,000 rpm, the valves are opening and closing 2,000 times every minute, or thirty to fourty times every second. When the intake valve opens right at the top of the intake stroke, it turns out that the piston has a lot of trouble getting the air moving into the cylinder in the short time available (a fraction of a second). Therefore, at higher rpm ranges you want the intake valve to open prior to the intake stroke -- actually back in the exhaust stroke -- so that by the time the piston starts moving downward in the intake stroke, the valve is open and air moves freely into the cylinder during the entire intake stroke. This is something of a simplification, but you get the idea. For maximum engine performance at low engine speeds, the valves need to open and close differently than they do at higher engine speeds. If you put in a good low-speed camshaft, it hurts the engine's performance at high speeds, and if you put in a good high-speed camshaft it hurts the engine's performance at low speeds (and in extreme cases can make it very hard to start the engine!).

VTEC (which stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) is an electronic and mechanical system in some Honda engines that allows the engine to effectively have multiple camshafts. As the engine moves into different rpm ranges, the engine's computer can activate alternate lobes on the camshaft and change the cam's timing. In this way, the engine gets the best features of low-speed and high-speed camshafts in the same engine. Several of the links below go into the actual mechanics of the VTEC system if you are interested.

Several engine manufacturers are experimenting with systems that would allow infinite variability in valve timing. For example, imagine that each valve had a solenoid on it that could open and close the valve under computer control rather than relying on a camshaft. With this type of system, you would get maximum engine performance at every rpm range. Something to look forward to in the future...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm

 

Agreed....
I bought a VTEC controller a few years ago from JDMHONDAPARTS.COM. It was a complete waste of time and money. Not to mention all the extra gas the car ate up from hitting VTEC all the time. After a week I took it off and sold the controller. I realized that Honda has spent lots of time and money on VTEC research and development. I haven't spent any time on VTEC R&D....... Maybe Honda knows what they're doing.

 

lowering it to that point wont make the car faster, if any thing it will make it slower. honda has spent alot of time in their engineering and if there were hp possibilities with it that low they would have done it. the car (computer, cams, ect..) have to be designed and tuned to operate at those lower rpm's

 

damn tahts crazy.....neverfuckinmind then hahahhahaha

guess im just gotta have to get some headers or pulleys for that low range torque i want

 

headers wont do it either. they make all the power up high. if any thing you want to save up for a SC

 

My v-tec engagement is at 4800rpms (i have a tl-s) what if i bring it down to 3800 - 4000rpm range would this help or hurt the car?

 

whhhaaaa!! i need some low end torque mayne.....what about a CAI....i kno for sure the UR pulley would do it right?

 

lowering the VTEC point with out having other mods and dyno tunning your car wont do any thing for you.

 

most stuff for our cars doesnt produce any gains till vtec or higher. sorry!

 

If you must have low end torque, sell your TL and buy something with a V8 engine.

 

Why?

The only mods that add hp and torque across the rpm range are SC, pulley and CAI.

 

shiet...i geuss a camaro z28 is in line after i drop another 5-10k miles on the TL

 

yea like the new chevy HD duramax diesel. now that has some good ol low end torque

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/everything-sold-comptech-exhaust-v-afc-w-sunglass-molding-az-301880/

$200 for the trade of your sunglass holder. You get the V-AFC molding and the V-AFC unit.

 

. . . or a forced induction (= turbo- or super- charged) small displacement engine.

 

Eh? CAI doesn't add hp and torque (at least a significant amount) until you're in the higher rpm range.

SC and pulley do, and so does the Unichip piggyback ECU (if its tuned right), but only the SC is really going to give you significant gains down low ... btw the Unichip piggyback ECU doesn't work well with the SC, better off going with Greddy eManage.

 

Click ---> Here to see the Injen dyno run for their cold air intake on a 2002 TLP. The lines for torque and hp with the CAI show consistent gains across the entire rpm range.

 

ummmmmm not really. a big ol v8 produces way more and alot earlier which is where he wants it since he says he never gets to vtec point

 

The value of such mods is dubious from a financial standpoint. The most you can usually expect to recover is 50% of the cost of the parts when you sell the car.

It is usually better to buy the car you want rather than spending more money to turn the car you bought into the car you wanted to buy.

I recommend the later years of the E39 BMW 540i, 2001-2003, for those who find the TL to be torque deficient.

 

What should i look for in a dyno tunning shop? Then if i put mods on will it be helpful to lower the vtec point?

 

A good reputation, a decent machine (dynojet or better) and a wideband O2 sensor for Air/Fuel readings.

As for lowering of the VTEC point, you really need to get past this fixation. Do some basic bolt-ons, i.e. intake, headers and exhaust, and see how you like that first.

Why do you want the extra power? To win a few stoplight races? If that is the case, you are probably best off with a bottle of NO2 in the trunk . . .

 

Thanx for the info

 

from what ive read dont u need to have i/h/e/p then u can get the vtec controller for it to b of any use?...kuz i only have to get the crank pulley...then im off to get the controller...if u guys can tell me if thats wise or not itll save me $400...n i can just blow that on something else...

 

Dont waste your money on a controller. I/H/P is all you need.