Changing my plugs, properly inflating my tires, and running premium were the three best things I did for performance and fuel economy.

Wow, I sure miss my TL !

 

I finally got up the nerve to change the plugs yesterday. After 15 years and 11 months and 103,707 miles it was due. I did the front bank first without issues. I thought the plugs would be very tight but all felt like the originals were installed by little Japanese girls. I also thought the deep well would be an issue with crossthreading possibilities. I used the 6" extension and Sears plug socket with insert. Final tightening with the ratchet wrench. Maybe 3/4 of a turn and they were in.
The rear bank wasn't bad either except for a few things. I have a ratchet wrench which fits in the palm of my hand and is great in obstructed areas. Removal of the power steering hose bracket (one 10 mm bolt) is a must, and that gives you all the room you need.
One issue I'd like to bring up is removal of the wiring connector from the coil packs. I don't have a lot of strength in my fingertips so I used a small slipjoint pliers to gently squeeze the sides of the connector. I was very concerned that if I broke the connector I'd have a big problem. Would anyone with computer/photo skills be willing to post a picture of the connector and identify the pressure points for removal? Reinstallation is easy....just push until seated.I also changed out the PCV and was thinking about the upstream oxygen sensor but postponed that task. I figured if the car started throwing codes I wouldn't know which part(s) to blame. No codes or lights. Car runs smoothly and throttle response is very improved. Like a new car again. BTW I used a 6" extension on the rear bank as well and didn't have to put a couple together to reach anything. I saw an earlier post showing a Sears "wobbly extension" which could be a help. If you go to Harbor Freight you can get a set of them with 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives for the same price as one piece at Sears. Sure they're from China, but Sears is sourcing from China these days.

 

I just replace my plugs yesterday aftermuStering up the courage to try it and also to brave the winter.

The NGK laser iridium are $9.99 each at autaozone and the anti seize is $1.50.

I removed the strut bar, which was relatively easy--just gotta undo all the bolts attached to it.

I, too, just used a 6 inch extension for all of the cylinders. I broke the plugs free with a breaker bar and ustilized its swivel head to negotiate the tight space.

I didn't have a check engine light on before this job, but do now. I hope it's nothing and just needs to be reset with the OBD2. Any of you guys have this issue? How easy is it do screw up the gapping in the plugs? I had some contact with the head of the plug and the engine when installing one of the rear plugs. My car still does have a rough idle.

 

Do not attempt to gap the plugs. They come from the factory with the correct gap. If not, return them.
I think AutoZone will read the code for free. I suspect it might be a coil (they are very sensitive to being dropped or mishandled). If it is a coil Rock Auto is having a closeout and cheap prices on a replacement. Rock might be a lot cheaper than AutoZone.

 

Took it to autozone and the diagnostic tool reported "misfire in cylinder 1" its recommendation was replace plugs and have valves tuned to spec. The guy reset the OBD but the check engine light has yet to go away. Any ideas?

 

I'm still guessing a bad coil pack. I'd swap the coil packs from #1 and another cylinder, go to a different Auto Zone and get a second read. If the result is misfire on the cylinder you moved #1's coil pack to, it's time to replace the coil pack.

 

Thanks, that's great advice. My check engine light eventually turned off and has been off for 120 miles. My car has zip again and is driving as well as it was before I started having performance issues. So, if any of you ever experience a lack of power when attempting to accelerate especially up hills, a simple spark plug change might be your solution. I was also getting a flashing check engine light on larger hills, especially on the highway.

 

Bump for a good post. About to buy some of these NGK plugs soon. About to hit 316,000!!

 

Nice!! I'm looking forward to hitting 300K eventually

 

So, I called Ngk and asked them a bunch of questions. One being what is the torque specifications. Since we were talking about my 2002 Acura TLS I figured the rep would give me the correct specifications. I see in my manual and on here that the torque for these are only at 13ftlbs of torque or 156inlbs. Whereas the Ngk rep said it is 18-23ft lbs which is grossly higher than that of what Acura calls for. Since I figured it was their spark plug they would know what to set it . I torqued it to 18 ftlbs no antisieze. What should i do? Loosen them to proper Acura spec? Leave them alone?

 

Good find. They changed their site layout. The new url is:
Spark plug failure analysis

 

Thank you, thank you so much. Just changed the front 3 spark plugs using this guide. Tomorrow morning ill tackle the rear ones. Wish me luck! Again, thank you so much for this DIY guide!

 

Remember that you can always move, unbolt, unplug, unscrew or unclip(think I covered em all) in order to make your life easier changing the rear plugs. I would try and do it first without moving anything out of the way but just keep in mind that its not difficult to put the stuff back in that you undid. You make break a clip in the process but it is cheap enough to replace later. Good luck.