I'd like a mini-torque ratchet. Perhaps my next tool ... ?

Auto-Zone guy threw in the packet of anti-seize when I bought the plugs.
Maybe they only change when you're buying the dollar plugs?

 

Definately a great write up for the diy'ers.

I just seafoamed mine this morning, full can, right under half tank. Will do some seafoam in the intake today or tomorow, then sometime next week new ngk iridiuims are goin in.

 

the harbor freight 15 dollar on sale 3/8" drive torque wrench works fine for all our basic needs- goes low enough for intake manifold bolts and high enough for rims and suspension

dont get the 1/4" drive one thinking smaller is better, it doesnt read below 20- intakes are 16!

spend 50+ bucks on plugs they better kick you some grease

use sparingly on middle few threads in a flat bead-not raised silicone seal manner
dont want so much excess it pushes down into cylinder.
WILL get on plug and foul it~

 

Its a nice windy day here..maybe I am due for a foamin~ with the 2000 rpm blast while adding more foam at faster rate (partway thru process when heat has loosened crud)

Those desperate to see smoke to believe its working- that'll fix ya right up!!!
and is a suggested method by seafoam - ck the website www.seafoamsales.com

mait light is flashing so time to add foam to oil as well

 

would the looseness/tightness of the pluggs make the car idle odd?

 

I replaced my plugs last weekend with the NGK ix plugs. Car has 120K on it now. I don't know if the plugs were ever replaced. Looking at the plugs they looked just like the OP pics. I think the car has more power now and i should see a better mpg. I Seafoamed the TB 2 weeks ago and did the Seafoam in 1/2 tank of gas this weekend.
The rear plugs were a major pain to replace. Mostly the rear passenger plug. I did end up with a few cuts after the job was done. Didn't remove the IMRC motor. Glad to have this job done. Next job is the motor mounts.
What is the IMRC?

 

Intake Manifold Runner Control, iirc from a past post somewhere. not quite sure what it's used for though

 

IMRC opens the intake manifold more to allow more air.

 

actually does not allow any more air into the manifold, what it actually does is allow air to pass from each side of the manifold to the other, so it can take advantage of the pulses of the other cylinders (it improves the filling of the cylinder, for more power)

let me try and find a better defination first


basically what it takes advantage of is the Helmholtz resonance


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance

 

just did mine



and

 

have fun getting to that back passenger side one?

 

I did my plugs on my CL-S and the type S guys have to remove the IMRC in order to access the middle plug in addition to the PS line holder. Car definately runs better on newer plugs

 

actually wasnt that hard reaching there if you have the right tools. i just put the extention in first then the rachet it all works out pretty easily.

 

nice diy. helped me alot today

 

very nice write up, will be replacing my plugs next weekend

 

I found a 3 and 6 inch extensions work best- you can install one on the plug socket and lower it in- add the next length and then the ratchet handle
there is even a bump in the firewall for your hand!

many find doing an engine cleaning with seafoam or similar-bg-wynns- before plugs, cleans the pistons for better ignition of material
and the intake valves for better running.
a can in half tank of gas cleans injectors and fuel rail

 

Long reach plug socket works great, no joint to come apart & self-aligns plug.

 

if you align the `nub and dot` in sockets and extensions--they wont come apart while installing the plugs
Use a proper spark plug socket with rubber or magnet inside to hold plug up during removal
I like to use a piece of vac tubing attached to top of spark plug-
ease it down into place and start with fingertip control- avoids crossthreaded plugs and major expense of repair

use plug anti-sieze sparingly- a little line around the middle threads is all it takes to prevent issues between differing metals

 

The idea that our plugs will last 100k is a joke. I noticed some pinging when going up an incline. I always use premium gas. I decided to change the plugs-they had around 55k on them. Car ran much better after changing them. I must have had a weak plug. No more pinging, better mileage, acceleration and smoother running engine over all. Anyone with 50-60k+ miles should change their plugs. I signed up at the AUTO ZONE web site and occationally they send me a 20% off coupon for online ordering. After you order online and plug in the 20% off code, you just go to the store and pick up your order. Saved $2 on each plug and a few other items. They had sea foam on sale also with another 20% off. I seafoamed the intake, added 1/2 can to the engine oil and 1/2 can to about 4/5 gallons of fuel before I changed the plugs. Engine runs perfect at 138,000 miles.

 

Thank you for the great write up. It took me two hours but approx 40 minutes of that was on the rear passenger plug because I started using a swivel spark plug socket but to no avail so I switched back to the extension plus ratchet. Car runs smoother again. I had 135K on the original plugs!

 

Big kudos to everyone here. and definitely if you have a Type S remove that motor, its still kind of a pain hanging around but made it much easier! Took me roughly 1.5 hours, left the hardest till last lol.

Car only has 140K KM's on it but felt like it was hesitiating once in a while and this seems to have helped but we will see in the next couple days.

Do people usually do their coil packs at the same time? How much are those roughly?

 

No need to change any of the coilpacks unless they go bad. You will get a CEL if they do.

 

~ $50/a piece

 

many run seafoam thru the gas and/or master vac port at TB to clean the internals
It really is tune up in a can,,and with new plugs- should fix any hesitations

dont forget the TB air plate clean with carb spray,,makes a big differance

 

good write up..took me a little over an hour but i'm not a dewityerselffer..

 

recently changed the plugs in my 02 tl-s, took me about an hour and i didnt removed any parts.... its actually pretty easy to reach the back ones if you put the extension in first and then attach the rachet.

i also poured some seafoam into the car a few days later....

i deff feel better throttle response

 

ck the seafoam diy for max results with it
you said pour some in: please clarify--want you to get your moneys worth~

I suggest 1 can in 8 gallons gas,,a tick under half tank
2 oz per gal is cleaning dose, 1oz is maitenance dose done at 5000 miles

dont forget to clean the TB inner air plate--remove tube from air filter to engine- carb cleaner type product removes crud--get both sides and edge really good.
effects cars running

Also lube throttle return spring assembly- improves pedal feel and throttle return time when you lift off the gas

using a few pieces of extension, a 3 and 6 inch with a real spark plug socket- to remove plugs is my preferred method--easy to fit the tool in that way and keep all the layers of skin on your hand

Lowering new plug in with a piece of vac tube on its top tip prevents dropping it and damage to plug,
plus cross threading is very difficult to make happen when working with fingertip feel of catching the first threads right
try it -it really does work on most every car
those cars with hidden plugs especially- you dont want to mess those threads up!!!

did you notice the bump made into the firewall for the back of your hand- on passenger side/plug 1?

those with extra aftermarket strut crossbar will want to remove it for easy access,,
optional to remove stock crossbar for more room

 

Is this important or critical ???

 

The only critical thing is to tighten but not over-tighten the plugs :-)

 

the little 1 dollar packs at parts store counter of spark plug boot grease work to protect the plug to coil

some crc or other contact cleaner in the connectors for the coils is smart, the car has crud everywhere
followed by a dab of dielectric/connector grease- also a dollar pack

dollar spark plug thread grease is worth it- do the middle 2-3 threads in a very very thin amount, not enough to push down into the cylinders!!

I use length of vacuum hose over top of spark plug to lower it down and start threads by hand- with fingertip control so it doesnt cross-thread and ruin your day
A 3 and 6 inch extensions for ratchet on rear plugs make life good !!

suggest seafoam or similar thru gas and manifold vac-TB throat (air plate)
before plugs--give them a clean home to work from

 

Should I seafoam once or twice? I'm nearing 200k miles and have never seafoamed before. I'm going to replace my plugs soon.

 

noobs to seafoam repeat gas and vac port/TB air plate methods after a month -1500/2000 miles
then good for a year- when you will do it once each method

200kmiles,,, I would do whole 16oz can in 8 gal gas, do it twice like that now,, and most your work is done
do vac port- get TB air plate
lube hinges and springs
DEEP CREEP seafoam aerosol, is so much easier to use for vac port --and everywhere like that
regular seafoam is for oil and gas methods

seafoam wont damage new plugs!!!!! if already installed-
only MIGHT foul 100k+ plugs, and weak afterdrive effort= lets crud settle on the electrode
but you are replacing them anywhay! so what do you care?

 

13lbs of torque is critical - Is that what i'm reading ? My torque wrench is in increments of like 10.. If it is off a couple of lbs - which way would be better - higher ?

 

Are you suggesting to put the dielectric grease on the top of the spark plug - Where the coil fits on top of ?

 

I would do 10 ft lbs, then just give it a final light snug by hand.

 

Yes.
And anti seize on the threads more towards the body of the spark plug, not the bottom threads towards the tip.

And I just get the plug hand tight on the extension and then a little bit tighter with the ratchet.

 

Another noob question - do i need to disconnect my battery first ?

 

no on the batt disconnect

Yes on connector grease- a dab on opening to coil/top of plug
not required but why not!

Yes on anti sieze grease- just a tiny bit on the middle threads- make sure it wont go into the cylinder--or some seafoam will be needed~

the new plugs box should have a torque and hand tighten spec like: base contacts, plus 1/3 turn--- as example

loose plugs cause big issues- lost compression

 

removal of the cross strut bar adds room to work if needed
the 3 and 6 inch extension plus real spark plug socket make it easier.
length of new vac hose slipped over top of plug makes it easy to lower and start threads with fingertip control
Anyone who has dealt with cross threaded bolts will agree-- thats never fun~

 

Sweet - Thanks !