so if i overtightened - i should go back in and back them out a touch to reduce the risk of contact on the plug to the piston head

 

Last noob question - I swear I have the 3 fronts replaced, and wont have time to do the back 3 before i leave for a 400 mile road trip. I'm assuming nothing bad will happen other than , wont perform as good as 6 new plugs. any potential codes for exhaust issues ??

 

it takes less than thirty minute change out the other three plugs.

if you only torqued the plugs about 1/4-1/3 of turn after it was seated then no need to lossen them.

 

Go ahead & replace them. It shouldn't take much longer. An extended reach plug socket is very useful.

 

what makes you think you overtightened them? did they make creaking noise?
were you holding on the end of a ratchet and pulling wildly?
or hand directly on top of ratchet and tighten gently?
should have mentioned that trick before- = about 10 lbs

When they get to a point where it feels naturally tight- plus a little more- thats right
iirc its 13-16 range allowed

dont loosen and set that as torque
loosen, and bring UP to spec- that holds them in tight..like tuning guitar strings

no worry on the back 3 if they dont get done- no codes, maybe a percent less economy and smoothness will be off

 

totald- what are you defining a long reach socket as?
I have a few that fit the TL, a standard rubber insert type, is that long reach- in your opinion? or some trick tool I dont know about

 

when the timing belt is in place and doing its job- there is no concern of valves contacting pistons- all works together and they are open and closed at the correct `time`

If the `timing` belt breaks, the exhaust valves that are open will make contact with the pistons when it hits top dead center, bends valve stem

they would pretty much have to be the wrong plug- with too long a reach- to hit the piston in normal operation

 

A socket designed to remove plugs in deep recesses.... no extensions required.

 

oh I see
For me--not having one of those,,I like the 3 and 6 inch extensions for lowering the tool in pieces where needed

 

I did have one plug that caused some issues coming out - I thought the threads were stripped and started sweating bullets. It was just really rusted ? And at the bottom of the ceramic there was some black oil. Was this probably a fouled plug ? Or EGR or PCV need to be cleaned ? Worn Ring ?

 

a few of them often feel stuck= its surface rust, corrosion bonding, and the fact honda didnt use anti sieze on the plugs at install

dirt and grime get in there on top of the plugs and heats, spreads everywhere...
as long as the working part of the plug looked good- its tip was tannish grey, then all is well with your system

if more than 75kmiles its ready for egr port cleaning
pcv just use carb cleaner or deep creep/seafoam to clean the valve

 

Has anyone used BOSCH Platinum 2 spark plugs # 4308? Bosch data sheet says it is ok for acura 3,2 TL.

 

Yea a few members have used them. Those few members also regretted using them.

 

They work very well on my V8 truck but I would not use them on a japanese engine tho. Im using the E3's right now and they have been great but most sick with the NGK stuff

 

1. Thanks for the feedbacks regarding Bosch, I'd better not use them.
2. Have been struggling with the passenger rear plug 30 minutes. Lost the bolt on PS line, falling down the engine bay and disappeared, removed 4 bolts of the crossbar on "strut bowl" only to realize that the bar still unmovably attachs to the firewall probably with rivets, don't see any bolts.

The one who designed that $%&^%*&^ should be shot.

 

Thanks for the DYI with pics, you make it look easy... will give it a go this weekend...

 

should have checked this thread before i changed my plugs.. i went to napa auto parts and when i asked for plugs, they automatically gave me the ngk g-power plugs.. anyone using these? i shouldve known to ask for iridiums, but ive been messing with my mustang so long that i was used to autolite cheapo plugs.. lol

 

sorry dont know how to edit my last post.. but just searched further and found that my platinums are ok.. seems i was worrying for no reason.. haha.. thx

 

g power are NOT the correct plugs- take them back

we use ngk platinum (came stock) but more use gen3s plug Iridium or Iridium IX
which are fine in our engine
not any other designation or multi prong nonsense

the right plugs are about 8 bucks each,,anything else will cause problems

 

If your super cheap or just need a quick replacement, I can vouch for the Autolite double platinum plugs. I ran them for about 70k miles, and switched them out for NGK Iridiums. They looked like they could run for another 70k, and I experienced no change when I installed the Iridiums.

Of course, the safe bet is the Iridiums, but I just thought I would share my experience.

 

and that whole time you were experiencing lessened performance
NGK or denso (cost more and last less miles)

 

I didn't feel any difference, but I'm sure there was some gain. I didn't dyno test it to confirm or anything.

All I'm saying is that the engine was running properly. Which isn't saying much at all.

 

did you use a live scanner to see what your actual performance was?

 

I just did mine and for the rear, I used a 1/2 socket wrench and 6" extension just fine. (still have to insert the 5/8 plug socket + extension first, THEN attach wrench)...just an alternate FYI...

 

Yea, I found the rear to be a little harder to reach, but not the nightmare that others are talking about. Removing the PS hose and the strut bar? No thanks.

I tightened my plugs with a torque wrench @14ft-lbs when the engine was HOT, so I went back to reinstall them when the engine was cold. The first two didn't really seem to be overtightened or anything, so I left the rest.

However, my plugs had a black soot on them. From googling, it seems that this is caused by a rich A/F ratio? My mpg is pretty good (~30hw, 20city). Should I change the O2 sensors?

 

Yeah, I had no problems with the rear. I reached them all from the driver's side and reaching down-behind the motor.

How's your air filter? Sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? I did a seafoam treatment right before changing my plugs/pcv valve.

 

K7-- seafoam it and recheck plugs
just color or real buildup on them?
correct ngk plugs?

DIDNT SEEM!!!! they are torque spec cold,,, or they are not~ not seems!
loose plugs from HOT install may have caused leak and problems
ck them cold at 14, not more not less

 

done egr port and passage service ??
along with ck pcv valve over rear valve cover
it should shake- not gummed up

TB air plate is cleaned?

 

Just did mine for the first time. The idiot before me, whether it was the dealer or previous owner, had installed the wrong plugs. I guess that could explain the weird idle; it's smooth as can be now.

I ended up using only (2) 3" extensions, which was a little shorter than (1) 6" extension. Make sure your remove the bracket that holds the power steering line in place and the cruise control motor for the rear plugs. That made my life much easier. I would say it only took me 30 minutes.

 

so there is a strut bar to replace the stock one,thanks.my tl-s sits in my garage,front end off,waiting for type-s lights(blackouts),ballestand eiabochs pro sys plus.

 

I did exactly the same thing.

 

scubasteve (diver signal for question-u OK?)

the cusco or other brands upper strut crossbar does not replace the stock one!
It supplements it, and goes only between the towers
the stock unit is more for locating the body/firewall to the shock towers/fenders
and reduces flex up top

also great is cusco lower cross bar, goes across frame where the rails split wide to create the trans/engine cradle
Putting a brace there stops a lot of frame flex, and holds the lower shock mounts/steering in place during turn loading
Makes lane changes at speed- flat!

 

Great instructions. Easy to follow!

 

Ok guys so I have the Seafoam running through my gas tank as I type this. And will go out to get the spark plugs tomorrow.
now the general consensus is that NGK iridium spark plugs are best. But what if I get the Bosch Iridium plugs?
I read that it might misfire but if i do a ECU reset might that take care of the problem?

 

There is a couple of iridium IX, which model correct one for our car?
Is it NGK (2477) ZFR5FIX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug?
I found it on amazon $6.25 a piece(over $25 free shipping). It's the best price ever seen on line.
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
I think it cheaper than any auto shop or ebay if the model No. is correct.

 

Changed the plugs two days ago, took me about 45 minutes to get it done. Thanks for the great DIY info. I also changed the cabin filter, man was damn filter filthy. AC blows a lot better and much cooler. I'm loving this site.

 

Can anybody confirm?

And does anybody know if there is a difference between the spark plugs for the TL-P and TL-S?

I went to O'Reillys and he asked if it was a regular, or type S. I said just give me a type S (even though i have a TL-P) because I didnt think there would be a difference and thought the S ones would spark stronger or something.

 

Actually It seems I did.
At the top of the AD there is a toolbar that will check if they do fit, and they DO!

 

P & S plugs are different (heat range). Has no bearing on the physical fit. Get the correct plug for your model.

 

OK Just wanted to make sure and not do something totally wrong and mess it up
so can anyone tell whether these (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...ef=lh_di_t_dup)
are for the TL-P or S?