tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Posting here cause the audio/video section doesnt get that much traffic at all. Might need some help installing a sub and amp. Im a noob to audio things. I like the current bose system we have but i want alot more bass.

JL 250/1 Amp
&
JL 12" W6

or

JL 500/1 Amp
&
2 JL 12" W3

Which would be better? Im trying to stay on a budget so im keeping the stock radio, just new subs.

Also if you guys have pics/videos i'd greatly appreciate it!

victus1

Two subs will definitely give you more bass, but it boils down to your preference. I would recommend getting an EQ like the HFEQ to get rca outputs for front/rear/bass. The stock EQ is total garbage and the frequencies are deliberately set to support the crap Bose speakers in the doors. I changed out all my speakers and installed a HFEQ (I actually bought the Autotek 7007 which is exactly the same, but cheaper). I kept the stock radio because it doesn't attract thieves.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

I have 2 10" MTX subs and a Hifonics 1000W mono amp. They bump but I should've gone with 2 12s or an Infinite baffle setup with 2 15s.


I recommend going IB. You don't need as powerful of an amp as you would with a closed ported box setup.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

Terrible picture but my sub box is behind the panel that the amps are mounted to and are firing towards the rear seats. I am in the process of making another panel with windows and cooling fans to cover the amps.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

Here is a thread about infinite baffle.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/finally-infinite-baffle-just-loud-sealed-lower-power-requirements-828032/

If you have any questions I would contact I hate cars. He's one of the most knowledgeable audio gurus on Azine.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I honestly didnt even know what you guys just said LOL. Told you i was a noob, as for that EQ, that spot is great but i actually put my slide out tray to use. As for the subs.. i want them to hit hard but not as hard as a typical slab would.. making trunk bolts loosen and rattle.

Budget wise, im trying to stay under 5-600.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Found this video, pretty much how i want it. I'll settle with a 250/1 though, if it was 2 subs then i'll go for the 500/1 amp.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

So i thought about it some more and was thinking, i forgot i do have a blitzsafe adapter installed in my car. Cant i just get an rca y spliter and hook one part up to my aux cord and the other part straight to the amp? Hook the amp up, positive to battery, find a ground bolt. Hook the sub up to the amp and i should be set right?

A lil drawing i drew up.. LOL

victus1

"Cant i just get an rca y spliter and hook one part up to my aux cord and the other part straight to the amp?"


What about CD's or radio? You need to get the rca outs from the head unit.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I thought the blitz would take care of that but i guess not. So heres my question now, if i do get rca out of the stock head unit will it also bring signal to the subs using the blitzsafe as an aux?

victus1

Blitzsafe only allows you to bring another aux in to your HU, like an mp3 player. I have the Blitzsafe too. To get the signal to your amps you must take it from the line-out HU wiring in the back. That way you can play cd, radio, mp3, etc. in your amplified system.

The best way to do this is to use an EQ which has sub-out rca jacks in the back. That's what mine has. I have a multi-channel amp driving the 4 door speakers and a monoblock driving my sub. My EQ has given me front & rear rca jacks, and a sub-out rca jack for my monoblock amp.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

What you can do instead is just use a Line Out Converter. I'm selling one in the Black Market right now. It connects to the positive and negative wires that plug into the stock subwoofer and converts that to an low voltage RCA output. Then you just use a standard car audio RCA cable to go from the LOC to your aftermarket amp. It's the easiest way to install.

Then all you need for the amp is power, ground, and a remote turn on (I used my cig lighter). Let me know if you want it.

jliu6789

I put JL amps (JL300 for 4 speakers and JL 500 for Sub) on MDB board (covered by cheap carpet bought from Home depot which has the same color/texture as my 2001 TL trunk. the board is fixed to the back seat, and it's hidden behind the giant Sub Enclosure (JL 12w6v2). the previous owner had the amps on the floor of the trunk. I "wall" the amp and push the sub enclosure deep so I have some space for my golf club (and to make it hard for the thief to steal the amp).

they are great amp and sub, "second to none" - boasted by previous owner of the car - and I kind of agree.

I am not sure of getting such high end amp/sub while keep the stock HR and speakers. perhaps you can think of a compact powered sub like Infinity BassLink Powered subwoofer: 200 watts and a 10" sub. it's on sale at Crutchfield and they will give you the free kits to wire the power from battery to the trunk. I am think of this approach to upgrade my another 01 TL which has Clarion HU + stock speakers.

jliu6789

sorry here is the picture of the amps

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

An aftermarket EQ would be nice but im trying to stay under 5-600. Im mainly trying to go for new parts.

As i said, im perfectly fine with the stock speakers, all im looking to replace is the sub. I am in no way an audiophile so im not trying to go all out. Just a little weekend project. Ill check into the Infinity sub, but honestly.. id rather stick with JL.

Ill look into that, seems like the best and cheapest option for me. Btw i will be taking out the stock sub. Seen a video on youtube where they took it out and it sounds/hits better then with it in.

Now that looks nice, ill prob do the same. I really dont use my trunk at all but i want space for emergencies

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

Yeah def take the stock sub out. It would just be adding unnecessary weight at that point. Then more bass can reach the cabin. Keeping your rear armrest pass through open also helps with that.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Thats pretty much what i was gonna do. I dont know if i should face the subs towards the trunk or seats though. Im leaning towards facing it towards the seats.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

I've had mine both ways and honestly I couldn't tell the difference. Most subs are not directional.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Ill prob face it towards the seat. Did what you did, build a wall to hide everything. I dont want the amp or sub seen at all, in case they do break into my car.

Skirmich

I would say depends on Tastes...

1 W6 will give you a more Accurate Bass Hit while 2 W3 will give you more BASSS!!! Im in love with my Single W6 + 500/1 Combo but im trying to build an SQ system sooo, Its up to you I guess.

If you do remove the Stock SUB you must cover the Dome Stop lights with something... Otherwise the light will come up trough the SUB cloth and reflect on the Rear Glass.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Pics/videos of your setup?

Thanks for the tip about the light. Ill keep note of that.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

These look like a good deal? I'd prefer new products but i can settle for used.

http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/3238475698.html

Skirmich

They look OK (Visually) but as with anything Electric who knows if they havent been Abused... As with any Audio gear just dont buy Anything without first testing it... You should check for Harshness in the Coil Movement and Wierd Hiss Sounds.

I dont have any Videos of my System running since there are Alot of Videos in Youtube with the Same Setup its a pretty popular match up (W6 + 500/1) Sorry

Before my W6 I had 2 PIONEER Championship Series (Those Cheap Pioneer Subs) with my SLASH And I can say the W6 Pound them Hard in SQ (By a Mile) in the SPL department they are about the same with a Closed Box but once you go Ported the W6 will have a better SPL.


I want to go Active as well but Im too Lazy right now and my System is Running just where I want it. Would hate to mess anything up with Active...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

In the post he says hes willing to test them in front of you so if i do buy them ill prob make him do that. Ill see if he'll take 175-200 cash for them.

Any amp kits you guys would recommend? I was looking at some kicker amp kits but not sure which one to get. As for the LOC im looking at this one, seems like a good one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390470404058...84.m1438.l2649

You guys think it would be wise to pre wire everything first and close off the ends until i actually get an amp and subs?

Donnell Turpin

Let me know how this turn out for you, I want to add a system to my Acura TL-S

Skirmich

Stinger does make good Electronics but Im kinda Biased.

I would really advise you to run a Single 1/0 AWG (It will fit Trough the OEM Firewall hole) and then Split with a dist block into 2 x 4 AWG for the AMPs in the Trunk.. That way you will have alot of Headroom for Future Upgrades in and Still be able to have a Neat wire management...

Im Currently using as a Main from Battery:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-SHW1...item53ee828a1b

and then my Distribution Block in trunk with:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSCORPION-PL...item53ed5c445f
Yeah I cheaped out here but a Dist Block is just that noting fancy.

And Used this for my 4 AWG into Amps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-SHW1...f8179b&vxp=mtr

Thats why Im biased XD
From my Experience with the TL-S You will need:
about 20-22Ft Main to have a headroom to squeeze the 1/0 into the tight edges from the floor lining and behind the pedals from the firewall (most kits come with 19ft MAX that its a very tight fit for 1/0AWG in our car; Been there, done That.)
Some says: "It's better to have it in excess than the lack of it" this is true for Main Cable...
And about 4ft of 4AWG from Dist Block (totally depends on your setup).


You can Buy a Complete kit but they do tend to be Very Pricey if you go with Top Brands... Just make sure they are REAL AWG RATED and not that cheap chinese over-the-top-insulator type of Cables.

Skirmich

Forgot about this:
You will save alot of time if you do.. With the MAIN power cable from the Battery just dont put the Fuse in the Fuse Holder and Vuala! No power in the main Cables.

Also you will want Zipties for Cable Management under the Dash (Main Power) there arent alof of places for the cable to "Sit" and In my Case the cable actually got in the way of the Gas Pedal, Hence; Zipties!

fsttyms1

IMHO, The first thing i would do is get rid of the crap-tastic door speakers and get some components. Get a amp and power them. (also bypass the stock EQ if keeping the stock hu by hooking the line out converter on the output from the hu BEFORE it goes into the eq. Then get the sub. I would also recommend some dynomat door kits. It will quiet the car down and make the speakers sound better.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Im running a kicker L7 15" with a audio bahn mono amp 800-1600 Watts.


I have the amp at 800, low pass only, bass at 1/4,1/2. i control the bass through.the head, currently have avhp5700, have a avhb4400 haven't installed yet, it hits hard, everyone thinks i have 2 12". I have kicker 4 gauge high strand kit.


I'm.pretty i ran the wires a little different than most. From the battery, no more than 12" put the fuse/circuit box, ran the wire into the driver fender, out through the gap between the door and fender, i cut a small hole in the factory gourmet for the cables in the door, then its pretty much standard, under the door sils out to the truck under the back seat.


RCAs and remote i ran through the center console, must places, and people will tell not to run power and RCA together to avoid ground noise. I haven't had that problem with RCA and remote turn on, but i wouldn't run the RCA and main power together.

I've never used adaptors and with HU being cheap now a days i wouldn't worry too much about thieves, but tell everyone what you have either.



My setup total cost, mind this was a few years ago.

single kicker L7 15" gray face 06 above model, was 300 shipped.Ebay, like 500 in stores.
Kicker wire kit 100 got hooked up by my shop, 150 everywhere else.
RCA 80 online, were on sale from 130
Audio bahn amp 200 Ebay, around 300-350 elsewhere.
Minimum box 30 Ebay, upgraded later.
Plus another like 80 for digital pos battery terminal, a neg terminal and random connectors

I had a capacitor, never installed, sold to a friend.

790 total


You can put together a system way cheaper, and still bump.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

I would disagree with everyone about the stock door speakers


I have the bass at neg 4, head goes to 5, mid at +1-2, high at +3-4. Now i wouldn't compare it to a olsum system, and its not crystal clear, but play with the frequencies and level and they sound fine as high/mid.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Stock speakers make me want to vomit at high levels. You just have a lot of bass to hide how shitty they are but believe me they're terrible. If you were to get rid of them for a decent set of components you'd see a night and day difference!

Skirmich

I Agree with Replacing the Stock Speakers they are by Far the Weakest link but Since OP wants just to Add a Sub...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Damn thanks for all the comments and imput so far. Im getting a better idea of what i want to do. As for those stinger products.. those wires cost alot. Wasnt expecting that. Ill look around and see what i can buy. I am kinda anal with how wires are put thats swhy im trying to do a DIY self install.

So far i found 2 deals local, 2 12" W3 and 1 12" W6, ill see which one i can get a better deal on.

As for the speakers, i think they're fine for now. I am in no way an audiophile and i dont spend much time in the car to enjoy the music to its fullest. Any drive i make is about 10-15 mins cause im so close to everything. I just want a little bass in the back, maybe in the future i will upgrade everything.

LOL must be my lucky day, found an amp and sub! 1 12" W6 and JL JX 500/1, they're both asking around 200 for each. Ill prob hop on them and buy it

Skirmich

About Price those are Full ROLLS just trying to show you the Model you can Buy from Feet the exact amount you want in Ebay! Just look for the one with crazy low Price like 5 to 10 bucks....

Like this Guy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-HPM-...item483adb802e

4.59 x 22 = 101 + 5.50 = 106.50 bucks Shipped for the Main Cable!

For AMP power:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-HPM-...item483adb81e1
(SAME GUY)

1.39 x 4 = 6 bucks < 1 Amp.


So for All cable would be around 115 bucks (Very Rounded).... + 15 bucks from Dist Block and Another $$ for Battery Terminal and ANL Fuse Holder I think everything could be done for around 160 bucks.... Granted its expensive for just wire but remember that this is for Future Proof if you add another AMP (Speakers) and Who knows a APS like the MS8 or something in the Flare you will be Covered Power Wise!

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Get yourself a.good wire kit from a shop, they hook it sometimes. Memphis audio is one of the bigger.companies now and they have good quality stuff. Other than that kicker has a very nice wire kit.


RCA you may have to buy separate, as long as you get a split end and its twisted pair you'll be fine

victus1

50ft of 1/0 for $85
http://www.diyma.com/index.php/cables-and-wires.html



17ft of 0/1 for $28
http://www.audiosavings.com/category...turer2=CADENCE
I used this cable myself. Awesome quality.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

You don't need anything over 4 gauge power/ground wire. In fact, most amps won't accept anything larger than 4 gauge.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=478

fsttyms1

No offense, but You havent heard good speakers then (shit ive heard better stereos in 15 year old mini vans). There is no depth to the sound from the speakers, there are no highs from them. You cant even compare them to components not having tweeters. There is no low either. No highs no lows must be bloz.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

^+1. I could never go back to the stock Bose speakers after upgrading my whole system.