smooth~silver_type_s

well, like it said in my first thread, I ordered the following performance upgrades for my baby:

-comptech icebox
-comptech headers
-comptech upper tie bar
-comptech tranny cooler

This week they all arrived, however the tranny cooler is being shipped via comptech, and will arrive next week. Tonight, I had all the other parts installed. I then had the car dynoed. First of all let me say that I'm very happy with my stock dyno #'s! With the icebox, and headers in the car sounds like a JET!!!! however the set-up is still quiet, with absolutely no resonance whatsoever. The fitment was perfect, and the quality of the headers was amazing! guys PLEASE save up your dollars, and go comptech. nothing beats the real thing. Now here's the dyno results:



The thing hauls, and hauls!

blk2001tlon19s

nice

sounds like a jet? you should hear mine ..lol


Very good numbers though

Phesto

yeah.......I was about to say that also^^^.............get the RT High Flow Cat next,if you really like that sound.............And I feel you on the CT headers,I may just skip the DC's since they are on back order anyways,and get the "real" thing

smooth~silver_type_s

quality man! An old freind once told me: "if something's cheap, its cheap for a reason." I didn't want to say this, but the place where I had the work done, did a DC ceramic header + aem cai install on an a black 02 tls, earlier in the week, and he bearly made 220whp. I'm not going to bash the DC product because I don't know his stock numbers, but there is a difference.

oh, and he had fitment issues too, with his DC headers, they had to go next door to the guy who specializes in domestic exhausts, for a lot of "banging around". they did eventually get them on though.

Phesto

hmmm..thats something to chew on huh??I only wish I could have known what I know now and start over,for sure I would have got the CT's................oh well like they say Hindsight is 20/20............oh yeah nice curve on the dyno,you must love to drive your car now

smooth~silver_type_s

did you already by the DC's? you can sell it you know.

Phesto

No, i guess luckly they are back ordered for a month....So I passed,figured to hear more feedback......But I guess I should just bite the bullet and get the ct's

MikePA

No surprises with that graph. Almost all the gains are from the headers and most of the gain is above 5500, exactly what the CT dynograph shows.

fla-tls

Sweet - how much did the upper tie bar add??? j/k

smooth~silver_type_s

RickRoush03

um, not to bust your bubble, but your are on the border line if not running lean, so i'd check into a retune if i was you or that engine won't be lasting very long. you should be no higher than about 12.8, your at 13.5-14 with a retune you'll see and feel a diff also. i'd be surprised if the dyno guy didn't say anything

konigSTYPE

220 hp is weak.. lol

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

I don't know, I have an AEM/OBX combo setup which saved me a bundle of cash compared to an all-Comptech setup. My car made 239.8 fwhp with I/H/P.

I also had a fitment issue with the rear bank header, but nothing a little bit of tugging and pulling didn't fix. But I paid like 300 shipped for those headers new, and they are making good power. So I'm not complaining.

smooth~silver_type_s

i stands or intake, h stands for headers, what does P stand for? I'm using the stock exhaust.

also was that a dynojet dyno? did you use an sae correction factor or std?

smooth~silver_type_s

I don't think a tunning with the vtech controller would do much. Its pretty much useless unless you have boost. My stock a/f rations are super-imposed on the modded one, and I don't see any change!

Phesto

Most likely Unorthodox Racing Pully...........In a sense,we almost have to support these other headers,so that comptech cant get away selling thiers for more than double..........But then again its hard to bash comptech quality

smooth~silver_type_s

We own luxury cars, I feel we should spend money. The headers are worth every penny. Just look at how bad alpha werks quality was. And they treated the customers that complained like sh1t. after reading all the dc, obx, megan, and alpha werks horror stories, I decided not to compromise. Its your choice guys.

aaronnn

i had OBX's on for over a year and a half now.

and so did many others on this thread.. i believe pure adrenaline also does too. i NEVER had any problems with them and i always felt great about them..
you say the quality is top notch and just praising them so much.. i dont know about you but i spend 200 bucks on mine, you spent over a thousand. for what? for the original brand compared to my exact replica? same bends, same everything, including the pieces being stainless steel.. i think its safe to say that i didnt need to go all out on the money to get the similar big bang that you got.

RickRoush03

ok i am confused, vtech controller?? are we talking you adjusting when the vtec kicks in at a lower rpm?? boost, are you running a turbo or a blower?

what i am saying is whatever you are running, your car is running lean at WOT, so eventually your engine will go bye bye. you need a retune to add MORE fuel to the curve which means you probably need a custom tune and then you'll most likely see a little more HP and maybe TQ up top if not all throughout the curve.

take a look at my chart on the ROUSH, notice the a/f ration is below the red line, and how flat it is, thats what you want

Phesto

he is talking about that Apexi Vtec control thing right??.....I know Pure Adrenaline has one.....I as you can tell dont have one,I dont even know the name of the thing

smooth~silver_type_s

I spent the money because I HAVE money. I'm not cheap. if you want to run really fast in a car, then be a man for christ sake, trade that thing in and get a god dam domestic. Look at bigman in his 11,000 1998 low mileage transam. he's already running 11.9X with about a grand in mods. plus he's rear wheel drive. I'm not a comptech spokes person. I'm not on here making a dime advertising their stuff. If you want rob and tod in indiana to bend a rusted piece of pipe and stick under your car, then be my guest. Just be a man, and come back here and tell us when it rusts off, and is lying on the street.

snowman81

I agree...I have the money so why not buy the best?? I went with comptech headers and cat back exhaust and don't regret it ever.

Now back to the dyno...I will be bringing mine in this weekend for a dyno and looking at your #'s, I wonder what i will put down. My mods are listed below. Last time I dynoed it, I had I/H/E and put down 200 whp...sad I know. The problem was that the operator told me to run it in 4th gear and because it was such a last minute decision to run it, I didn't know that 3rd was the closest 1:1 ratio. I am also looking into this air/fuel ratio thing. I don't know anything about it at all but I've been skimming through pages on the internet and I will probably be starting a new thread with all the questions I'll have. Don't want to rob this one.
Nice numbers by the way. Not bad for a luxury sedan, right??

snowman81

OKay, I take it back...I am gonna ask one question here. you say that he should be running no higher than 12.8 but all I can find is that the stoich ratio should be 14.7 for gasoline engines. You can read thathere, but this is not the only site that has had 14.7 as being the number to go by. I don't know anything about air/fuel ratios so I am not sure that I am even looking up the right thing, but I am curious to figure this out now.

RickRoush03

To quote from your link: "For gasoline the stochiometric mixture is 14.7:1 in Naturally Aspirated engines maximum power is frequently reached at AFR's ranging from 12.5 - 13.3:1"

Not trying to say right or wrong, your a/f ratio looks lean to me, if your not racing it, redline all the time, no NOS, blower, turno, well you may get away with no retune. But if you retune and add some more fuel, i'll bet you get higher and better overall numbers and it'll pull harder up top without seeming like its running out of steam. i am no import expert etc, but from what i have learned with the american muscle cars, you look border line lean. If your going to a reputable dyno guy, ask him/her their opinon.

snowman81

I see...so since cars are mostly NA then that would be the optimum AFR? That makes sense and thanks for clearing that up...like I said I really don't know anything about this but I am learning now. I will have to check that out when I get my car dynoed. Okay...sorry for hijacking the thread.

RickRoush03

its just something to consider and look at. all these aftermarket companies state "no tuning needing" Bull, you need to check b/c there is only so much the ecu can compinsate for when you add more air coming into the engine and going out. i mean, just a k&n filter, no CAI and maybe a catback or just mufflers, ya, prob no need to worry, but adding CAI, headers, exhaust etc etc etc and you really start effecting airflow more than the MAF can keep up with in stock tuned form.

i noticed when i retuned my bike, it pulled much harder on top and i had a k&n and gutted my cat out of the stock pipe back then, and i was border line lean also, got a new map etc and she pulls even harder if you can believe that.

fsttyms1

Ok, Not every one can afford to drop 1k plus on a header, Not every one wants to drop 1k Plus on a header. All the headers out there make damn near the same hp as each other. Yes some had fitment issues. And some never had a problem. So saying every thing else is junk isnt called for. Owning luxury cars shouldnt mean we have to get bent over for OVER PRICED headers or other parts. Get off your ego trip and knock it off.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

It's cool, dude. To each his own.

I am cheap where I can afford to be. I'd rather save 700 bucks on pipes and put that toward better suspension where it really counts for me. It's all personal preference. I'm not saying you made a bad choice; Comptech is at the top of their game and they make excellent products. All we are saying is that they aren't the only viable option when it comes to intakes and headers.

As for your questions, Dynapack, "P" as in pulleys, standard. Extremely high humidity (rain), about 70 degrees, one fan, no cool down between runs.

Since then, it's received more mods and the V-AFCII has been tuned. One of the guys in the local club has a shop, and he just got a brand new in-ground dyno in there over the winter. We're having a dyno day on the 29th, so I should have new numbers that are more comparable to yours then. I do realize Dynapack tends to produce slightly higher numbers, but even then, we're still talking nearly 20 fwhp, or about 27 hp at the crank. Anyway, keep an eye out.

fsttyms1

Except for their Shitty suspension products that they had breaking and rusting out on everyone

smooth~silver_type_s

trust me, Guys on here have done these mods, and added more fuel. Not one more hp. There are countless guys on here with I/H/E without a retune of any sort. Trust me, were're fine.

Phesto

this thread now has me wondering if I'm in need of a retune.never had a dyno done before.maybe its time to stop being lazy and get it done...........Nobody knows of a place in the Bay Area by chance? sorry to hijack

RickRoush03

i said i'll bet you'll get higher #'s, not guarentee, didn't say 100 guys haven't done it, but said your borderline on the a/f. just b/c 100 people jump off the bridge and no one gets hurt doesn't mean # 101 will be ok also. my suggestion was to have a pro verify. but, if you insist its all good, then by all means carry on and don't worry. me personally, i'd add some more fuel or at least confirm with a reputable import shop.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Outsourcing as its finest.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

I don't know, after I/H/P, my AFR was all over the place. It definitely needed tuning.

fsttyms1

After moding, tunning is necessary to optimize every thing

yunginTL

and another veteran here with no problem with OBX