Seat Weight
Seat Weight
Does anyone know the weight of the Type S seats? I was thinking about getting some leather racing seats or RSX seats to shed some weight but if the factory seats arent too far off, say about 80lbs, it wont be worth it.
I take out my rear seats, spare tire, jack, and trunk lining when I go to the track. (ran 14.8 @ 93mph)
I don't think permanently removing your seats would be a good idea. It would look stupid, and It's not a track car, so there is no point.
I don't think permanently removing your seats would be a good idea. It would look stupid, and It's not a track car, so there is no point.
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My TL-p ran those numbers. full interior
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driver? Tl-Ps should be in the 15s
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its definitely a mid 15 sec car.
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From: Appleton WI
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From: Appleton WI
kinna made it sound like a TL-P runs that stock too though.. i see where the confusion came from.. and thinhthan.. 17 is outrageous.. something is wrong with your car lol.. i was low-mid 15's with NO mods and full interior.. even the spare. (99 TL-P)
i've tracked this car once.. and probably never will again
i've tracked this car once.. and probably never will again
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From: where the weather suits my clothes
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No you dont shift at 5500.Dont use SS, Gate Shift. Shift just before the rev-limiter kicks in. (takes practice to get it right) that way you are always in vtec and high in the power band, SS is designed for curvy roads, not 1/4 racing.
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kinna made it sound like a TL-P runs that stock too though.. i see where the confusion came from.. and thinhthan.. 17 is outrageous.. something is wrong with your car lol.. i was low-mid 15's with NO mods and full interior.. even the spare. (99 TL-P)
i've tracked this car once.. and probably never will again
i've tracked this car once.. and probably never will again
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seeing 14 would have been nice. but then again i went in with not so high expectations.
CAI and headers might have done it. but i've decided to dump money into looks at this point.. maybe a few bolt ons for enjoyable acceleration, thats it unless somebody makes a bolt up SC or TC
CAI and headers might have done it. but i've decided to dump money into looks at this point.. maybe a few bolt ons for enjoyable acceleration, thats it unless somebody makes a bolt up SC or TC
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From: Appleton WI
seeing 14 would have been nice. but then again i went in with not so high expectations.
CAI and headers might have done it. but i've decided to dump money into looks at this point.. maybe a few bolt ons for enjoyable acceleration, thats it unless somebody makes a bolt up SC or TC
CAI and headers might have done it. but i've decided to dump money into looks at this point.. maybe a few bolt ons for enjoyable acceleration, thats it unless somebody makes a bolt up SC or TC
be an excuse to sell some stuff and start weight reduction on this boat...i'd have motivation to speed the car up if there was an available SC that didnt involve major fabbing that i just dont have time for.
plus... who doesnt like to hear the whinning of a SC???
Please tell my this statement is supposed to be in red text
No you dont shift at 5500.Dont use SS, Gate Shift. Shift just before the rev-limiter kicks in. (takes practice to get it right) that way you are always in vtec and high in the power band, SS is designed for curvy roads, not 1/4 racing.
No you dont shift at 5500.Dont use SS, Gate Shift. Shift just before the rev-limiter kicks in. (takes practice to get it right) that way you are always in vtec and high in the power band, SS is designed for curvy roads, not 1/4 racing.
took me long to get it right.. and gate shifting ftw..
i always had a feeling SS was kinda...
however..... gate shifting and incorporating this is..
The technique:
1) Foot on brake
2) Put the tranny into neutral
3) Blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so, foot still on brake. You should feel the pedal get a bit softer and you can push the brake down a bit more. Do not hold the gas to 4000rpms, simply rev up the engine and release the gas.
4) Once the rpms fall below 1000rpms, put tranny back into gear
5) While your foot still on the brake, mash the gas pedal fully and hold for nearly 1 second (no more) to bring up the rpms.
6) Release brake with gas fully depressed.
This is not neutral drop. The technique allows you to build more stall at launch (~200-300rpms more stall).
1) Foot on brake
2) Put the tranny into neutral
3) Blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so, foot still on brake. You should feel the pedal get a bit softer and you can push the brake down a bit more. Do not hold the gas to 4000rpms, simply rev up the engine and release the gas.
4) Once the rpms fall below 1000rpms, put tranny back into gear
5) While your foot still on the brake, mash the gas pedal fully and hold for nearly 1 second (no more) to bring up the rpms.
6) Release brake with gas fully depressed.
This is not neutral drop. The technique allows you to build more stall at launch (~200-300rpms more stall).
I have read that gate shifting technique before, but never tried it. Now im sad because I'm going to the track Friday but I can't run my car with my new tranny, have to break it in a little
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Take it for a few hwy trips to log 500 miles or so. I could do that in a day or 2 tops.
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