Seafoamed thur vac line ........
#1
Seafoamed thur vac line ........
Hey guys, new to the site and loving it. Really great diy section . I have a 02 tl-s and i followed the diy section on seafoaming the engine thur the vac line with 1/3 of a pint of seafoam. I turned off the car after the seafoam was all sucked up thur the vac line and left it off for about 5 mins.
When i started the car after 5 mins it started up right away ( i was thinking that was a good sign). I then went on a spirited drive for 15 mins with very little smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Here is where im puzzled i thought there was suppose to be like a hugh amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust but i had very miminal smoke for the 1st 2-3 mins and that was it. Is this normal?
Any respond is much appreciated. Thanks
When i started the car after 5 mins it started up right away ( i was thinking that was a good sign). I then went on a spirited drive for 15 mins with very little smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Here is where im puzzled i thought there was suppose to be like a hugh amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust but i had very miminal smoke for the 1st 2-3 mins and that was it. Is this normal?
Any respond is much appreciated. Thanks
#2
Senior Moderator
Probably because you didnt use much seafoam. I always use 1 full can.
#7
do NOT wait 30 minutes after foaming!!!!!- that will allow too much engine and exhaust cooling off time
You NEED heat in the CAT to generate smoke as oils in seafoam and heat react= smoke, so dont use that as a guide as to how much crud was in the engine
Please read the last few pages of the Seafoam DIY for the latest info-
Make sure you are using the MAIN vac PORT/Nipple on top of TB to Intake
Use of that smaller hose on fender is bogus info and does not feed all 6 cyls
Put it in slowly in small amounts- keep engine from stalling
Should take ~10 minutes to put in full can
Remember to clean the TB plate with carb cleaner or Deep Creep (seafoam in aerosol form)
You NEED heat in the CAT to generate smoke as oils in seafoam and heat react= smoke, so dont use that as a guide as to how much crud was in the engine
Please read the last few pages of the Seafoam DIY for the latest info-
Make sure you are using the MAIN vac PORT/Nipple on top of TB to Intake
Use of that smaller hose on fender is bogus info and does not feed all 6 cyls
Put it in slowly in small amounts- keep engine from stalling
Should take ~10 minutes to put in full can
Remember to clean the TB plate with carb cleaner or Deep Creep (seafoam in aerosol form)
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#9
vac PORT-Nipple at the top of the TB to manifold connection is what you need to use
Use a small length of clear hose to watch how much is getting sucked up at a time- small amounts-
or buy seafoam in a spray can- sold as Deep Creep- awesome control over amount, and works to clean throttle cable springs and the TB plate
Use a small length of clear hose to watch how much is getting sucked up at a time- small amounts-
or buy seafoam in a spray can- sold as Deep Creep- awesome control over amount, and works to clean throttle cable springs and the TB plate
#11
despite the rumor of tons of seafoam getting into the oil during vac and gas method- its not a reality-based on engine building techniques
As long as you are going to change the oil- throw some seafoam in the crankcase oil and idle in driveway or drive 15-30 minutes
As an experiment I put a new filter on, added 1 can foam and drove 150 miles- then new oil and filter
Amazing amounts of crud in the oil filter
If seafoam was getting in there in quantity when I do the intake method- the oil filter would have a lot less crud than came out
In normal internal combustion engines like ours- there is a small amount of open room between the ends of the piston ring- its needed for temp expansion and contraction within differing metals
So as the expanding burning gasses push the piston downstroke, it forces a tiny amount of unburnt fuel, oil residue (thanks to PCV) and other combustion byproducts thru the few mm space,
Note it has to go thru a few sealing rings of different types-compression-oil control--there are usually 5 or so rings stacked on each piston
The openings are not lined up in a clean path-so as to reduce blowby
End result is there is always some of that normal operating crud getting into the oil, a speck of seafoam wont harm anything
As long as you are going to change the oil- throw some seafoam in the crankcase oil and idle in driveway or drive 15-30 minutes
As an experiment I put a new filter on, added 1 can foam and drove 150 miles- then new oil and filter
Amazing amounts of crud in the oil filter
If seafoam was getting in there in quantity when I do the intake method- the oil filter would have a lot less crud than came out
In normal internal combustion engines like ours- there is a small amount of open room between the ends of the piston ring- its needed for temp expansion and contraction within differing metals
So as the expanding burning gasses push the piston downstroke, it forces a tiny amount of unburnt fuel, oil residue (thanks to PCV) and other combustion byproducts thru the few mm space,
Note it has to go thru a few sealing rings of different types-compression-oil control--there are usually 5 or so rings stacked on each piston
The openings are not lined up in a clean path-so as to reduce blowby
End result is there is always some of that normal operating crud getting into the oil, a speck of seafoam wont harm anything
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