seafoam in oil
06-20-2008, 06:03 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
seafoam in oil
Has anyone with 80k+ put seafoam in their oil and driven it for a day?
Of those people have you had any negative experiences as a result of this?
Of those people have you had any negative experiences as a result of this?
06-20-2008, 06:29 PM
#2
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Hey rob
havent had any problems. did my seafoam yesterday with seafoam in my crankcase, seafoam through the vac port, and seafoam in my fuel. actually runs a lot smơother. oh, and synchromesh does the trick with the transmission, but it lơoks like you have a TL so yeah, dont mind that last bit.
havent had any problems. did my seafoam yesterday with seafoam in my crankcase, seafoam through the vac port, and seafoam in my fuel. actually runs a lot smơother. oh, and synchromesh does the trick with the transmission, but it lơoks like you have a TL so yeah, dont mind that last bit.
06-20-2008, 06:51 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by heyitsvu
Hey rob
havent had any problems. did my seafoam yesterday with seafoam in my crankcase, seafoam through the vac port, and seafoam in my fuel. actually runs a lot smơother. oh, and synchromesh does the trick with the transmission, but it lơoks like you have a TL so yeah, dont mind that last bit.
havent had any problems. did my seafoam yesterday with seafoam in my crankcase, seafoam through the vac port, and seafoam in my fuel. actually runs a lot smơother. oh, and synchromesh does the trick with the transmission, but it lơoks like you have a TL so yeah, dont mind that last bit.
06-20-2008, 09:32 PM
#4
There is nothing good that is staying in there now. Engines are crud factories and oil is the drain pit for the runoff.
It will rebuild any needed protective layers with the new good brand- fully synth oil anyway
If concerned- install a new (any brand) oil filter- then do foam in crankcase/engine oil drive for a day or 2 as desired. Watch the dipstick for changes in color and smell.
The only concern is catching all the crud it will get loose, so a fresh filter would be able to contain it all- is the theory. Then change oil and filter
It will rebuild any needed protective layers with the new good brand- fully synth oil anyway
If concerned- install a new (any brand) oil filter- then do foam in crankcase/engine oil drive for a day or 2 as desired. Watch the dipstick for changes in color and smell.
The only concern is catching all the crud it will get loose, so a fresh filter would be able to contain it all- is the theory. Then change oil and filter
06-20-2008, 09:37 PM
#5
heyits:
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
rob, fsttyms started using foam at an early age and dino oil, then went synthetic- engine perfect inside at 200,000 miles....
Its not going to hurt your TL-- once we know what that other bad noise is first-
you know- it occurs to me:
its possible the oil passages are plugged and not getting oil to the lifters- that would make noise for sure- especially when cold!!!
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
rob, fsttyms started using foam at an early age and dino oil, then went synthetic- engine perfect inside at 200,000 miles....
Its not going to hurt your TL-- once we know what that other bad noise is first-
you know- it occurs to me:
its possible the oil passages are plugged and not getting oil to the lifters- that would make noise for sure- especially when cold!!!
06-20-2008, 09:51 PM
#7
everybody needs a hobby~
You should see me now... with the seafoam in an aerosol spray can!-
sold as Deep Creep
It works on everything- we have been woefully under using this product~
You should see me now... with the seafoam in an aerosol spray can!-
sold as Deep Creep
It works on everything- we have been woefully under using this product~
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06-20-2008, 10:12 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
heyits:
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
rob, fsttyms started using foam at an early age and dino oil, then went synthetic- engine perfect inside at 200,000 miles....
Its not going to hurt your TL-- once we know what that other bad noise is first-
you know- it occurs to me:
its possible the oil passages are plugged and not getting oil to the lifters- that would make noise for sure- especially when cold!!!
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
rob, fsttyms started using foam at an early age and dino oil, then went synthetic- engine perfect inside at 200,000 miles....
Its not going to hurt your TL-- once we know what that other bad noise is first-
you know- it occurs to me:
its possible the oil passages are plugged and not getting oil to the lifters- that would make noise for sure- especially when cold!!!
Do you think I could drive around for a day with seafoam in the oil to really clean it out?
It only has 2500 miles on the oil so I wouldn't need a new filter.
06-20-2008, 11:57 PM
#9
According to the website- you can run it for 30 days as long as you check the dipstick for color and smell every day-
That would be on a really old engine that had been sitting and needed a deep clean.
That would be on a really old engine that had been sitting and needed a deep clean.
06-21-2008, 12:37 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
According to the website- you can run it for 30 days as long as you check the dipstick for color and smell every day-
That would be on a really old engine that had been sitting and needed a deep clean.
That would be on a really old engine that had been sitting and needed a deep clean.
My current oil level is right at the top dot, will I be over filling it with an additional 16oz?
06-21-2008, 12:49 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
There is nothing good that is staying in there now. Engines are crud factories and oil is the drain pit for the runoff.
It will rebuild any needed protective layers with the new good brand- fully synth oil anyway
If concerned- install a new (any brand) oil filter- then do foam in crankcase/engine oil drive for a day or 2 as desired. Watch the dipstick for changes in color and smell.
The only concern is catching all the crud it will get loose, so a fresh filter would be able to contain it all- is the theory. Then change oil and filter
It will rebuild any needed protective layers with the new good brand- fully synth oil anyway
If concerned- install a new (any brand) oil filter- then do foam in crankcase/engine oil drive for a day or 2 as desired. Watch the dipstick for changes in color and smell.
The only concern is catching all the crud it will get loose, so a fresh filter would be able to contain it all- is the theory. Then change oil and filter
06-21-2008, 03:23 AM
#12
If you were talking about my 80 chevy- and its being held together by engine gunk---thats a different story than the TL-- which has always been taken care of
Go for it!! 16 oz is not going to overfill the system and cause any freakout
Just warm the engine- then add foam- then drive as desired
Go for it!! 16 oz is not going to overfill the system and cause any freakout
Just warm the engine- then add foam- then drive as desired
06-21-2008, 10:05 AM
#14
why wait?- get better running engine today!!! with just the gas tank and vac port methods-- to clean the engine combustion chamber parts. Thast tune up in a car right there- well 2 cans~
Then do the engine oil- years of buildup cant be helping anything....
If you think of the oil as the cars blood- it probably has really high cholesterol.
So this is the medicine to clean out the blood- allowing it to process stuff better!
Oils job is to cool, lubricate, and transport the sludge the combustion process makes as byproduct. A little bit of gas and oil and byproduct remnants get forced past the piston rings and into the oil....with every firing of each piston....
Thats normal for it to occur.
It can also get increased bypass-- when gunk makes the rings sticky and they dont move as designed. Some motion of the rings with each stroke of the piston is normal.
Using an engine cleaner such as seafoam, removes the varnish and gum residue, making the rings move freely and seal better, the clean valves also seat/seal better.
Many fast boat engines and jetskis require a product similar to seafoam/or seafoam to be used all the time.... those engines have really hi compression and blow-by issues on rings.
Must keep them clean and tight fitting!!
Then do the engine oil- years of buildup cant be helping anything....
If you think of the oil as the cars blood- it probably has really high cholesterol.
So this is the medicine to clean out the blood- allowing it to process stuff better!
Oils job is to cool, lubricate, and transport the sludge the combustion process makes as byproduct. A little bit of gas and oil and byproduct remnants get forced past the piston rings and into the oil....with every firing of each piston....
Thats normal for it to occur.
It can also get increased bypass-- when gunk makes the rings sticky and they dont move as designed. Some motion of the rings with each stroke of the piston is normal.
Using an engine cleaner such as seafoam, removes the varnish and gum residue, making the rings move freely and seal better, the clean valves also seat/seal better.
Many fast boat engines and jetskis require a product similar to seafoam/or seafoam to be used all the time.... those engines have really hi compression and blow-by issues on rings.
Must keep them clean and tight fitting!!
06-21-2008, 10:27 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well I have seafoam in my oil now.
First thing I noticed was that the car idled about 400rpm instead of 600rpm. I went for a 10 minute drive and returned home.
Dip stick looks clean, oil is slightly thinner.
When I screw off the engine oil cap while the motor is run I see oil squirting that wasn't previously? Good? Bad?
Motor still sounds the same.
First thing I noticed was that the car idled about 400rpm instead of 600rpm. I went for a 10 minute drive and returned home.
Dip stick looks clean, oil is slightly thinner.
When I screw off the engine oil cap while the motor is run I see oil squirting that wasn't previously? Good? Bad?
Motor still sounds the same.
06-21-2008, 08:39 PM
#17
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as long as it says on the back energy conserving u are good to go. i was using volvoline syntethic blend before but now i switched to full syntethic. better performance all around especially on fuel economy.
06-21-2008, 08:50 PM
#18
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by rob-2
Can you report back in 2-3 months with evidence? I'm concerned I'm going to clean something out of the motor that might be good to stay on.
06-21-2008, 08:54 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
I dont know how long i would run with it in the motor. I usually when i add it to the crankcase warm the motor, add it let it idle for 5-15 min, then do the oil change. Ive done this countless times to my motor i had in it (which had 210k on it and i was doing it every 30k or so up until then) No issues doing on this motor either.
1. My filter is catching it all - good
2. My motor isn't that dirty - good
3. My motor's gunk is too much for seafoam - bad
I've decided to drive it all of Sunday and have my oil changed while I'm visiting my mechanic's on Monday.
Dip stick does smell funny, almost like fuel. But I figure it'll be alright.
What should I be looking out for?
06-21-2008, 09:12 PM
#20
From Seafoam Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines
Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.
Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.
1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,
pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)
Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines
Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.
Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.
1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,
pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)
Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!
06-21-2008, 10:48 PM
#21
the dipstick smells like seafoam and crud! good job' It will be fine to do on monday, make sure they do the oil change with the engine warm so any residue is going to get drained out.
Your filter is working good!!
Your engine is not an 80s sludgebox!!
See if the tech can cut the filter open and examine its pleats- theres the real story!
Your filter is working good!!
Your engine is not an 80s sludgebox!!
See if the tech can cut the filter open and examine its pleats- theres the real story!
06-22-2008, 12:03 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
the dipstick smells like seafoam and crud! good job' It will be fine to do on monday, make sure they do the oil change with the engine warm so any residue is going to get drained out.
Your filter is working good!!
Your engine is not an 80s sludgebox!!
See if the tech can cut the filter open and examine its pleats- theres the real story!
Your filter is working good!!
Your engine is not an 80s sludgebox!!
See if the tech can cut the filter open and examine its pleats- theres the real story!
Still good?
06-22-2008, 03:14 AM
#23
no~~~~~~~~~~~
stop on the drive and change the oil with 100 miles on it- who knows what might happen otherwise!
Mobil1 hi mileage fully synthetic is widely used, and penzoil platinum is gaining respect
stop on the drive and change the oil with 100 miles on it- who knows what might happen otherwise!
Mobil1 hi mileage fully synthetic is widely used, and penzoil platinum is gaining respect
06-22-2008, 01:39 PM
#24
Tom, I dont wanna do it now cause I dont wanna change my plugs out now. Im just going to do it as part of the 105k service. the intake, oil and gas tank. But I know im gonna have to do it twice, obviously, so Should I do it once, change plugs then seafoam again or seafoam twice then change the plugs?
New car at 105k! Come see the smoke show next year! Too bad they dont make seafoam or trannys.
New car at 105k! Come see the smoke show next year! Too bad they dont make seafoam or trannys.
06-22-2008, 03:49 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by aznboi2424
Tom, I dont wanna do it now cause I dont wanna change my plugs out now. Im just going to do it as part of the 105k service. the intake, oil and gas tank. But I know im gonna have to do it twice, obviously, so Should I do it once, change plugs then seafoam again or seafoam twice then change the plugs?
New car at 105k! Come see the smoke show next year! Too bad they dont make seafoam or trannys.
New car at 105k! Come see the smoke show next year! Too bad they dont make seafoam or trannys.
06-22-2008, 04:05 PM
#26
Originally Posted by aznboi2424
Too bad they dont make seafoam or trannys.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/transTuneTech.htm
06-22-2008, 04:50 PM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Did an oil change this morning, switch to mobile 1 full synthetic.
Oil that came out was a VERY dark brown. Oil filter was very heavy after being drained. Not sure if that's a good sign.
See my post on valves for an update on my situation - https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...21#post2093421
Oil that came out was a VERY dark brown. Oil filter was very heavy after being drained. Not sure if that's a good sign.
See my post on valves for an update on my situation - https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...21#post2093421
06-22-2008, 11:02 PM
#28
I would think that weight is sludge that got removed and put in the filter- cut that thing open at the end with a dremel and show us!!!
Think of the engine oil as the Blood of the engine- imagine its got hi-cholesterol and fat globs in the arteries. You just went on a low cal diet and lymph system flush- you lost 10 pounds!!
As for the noise- go to your trusted tech, and ask him to listen with the stethascope and then do whats needed to resolve the noise. I dont know it you checked the idle purge valve box something- send a PM to Kris, knows about it- they can get really noisy- its a smog device iirc
Its possible that the valve adjustment was slightly off when done at 105 service, the engine temp at time of adjustment makes a huge differance, dirty camshafts will contribute to false readings-
a human uses sense of touch and a tool to set the adjustment by turning a screwdriver tip fitting while inserting a metal shim between the 2 parts. Tighten slightly- check- tighten locknut- and the clearance changes- try again! It also has an allowable range, not just .06
I have seen cars with really dirty engines have more valve noise after the adjustment--- You have seen what the intake looks like- image the rest of the engine- you only saw the blow-by!
Think of the engine oil as the Blood of the engine- imagine its got hi-cholesterol and fat globs in the arteries. You just went on a low cal diet and lymph system flush- you lost 10 pounds!!
As for the noise- go to your trusted tech, and ask him to listen with the stethascope and then do whats needed to resolve the noise. I dont know it you checked the idle purge valve box something- send a PM to Kris, knows about it- they can get really noisy- its a smog device iirc
Its possible that the valve adjustment was slightly off when done at 105 service, the engine temp at time of adjustment makes a huge differance, dirty camshafts will contribute to false readings-
a human uses sense of touch and a tool to set the adjustment by turning a screwdriver tip fitting while inserting a metal shim between the 2 parts. Tighten slightly- check- tighten locknut- and the clearance changes- try again! It also has an allowable range, not just .06
I have seen cars with really dirty engines have more valve noise after the adjustment--- You have seen what the intake looks like- image the rest of the engine- you only saw the blow-by!
06-22-2008, 11:18 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I will, I am not going to say anymore then it sounds like a deisel truck and see what he comes up with. Then run it through a reasonable check.
I am a little put off that the acura dealer I went too thinks it's fine and doesn't feel there would be any work.
I just KNOW it's not to sound like a diesel truck, but I'm getting tired of being the only one who thinks that.
I'll report back Monday on what happens.
I am a little put off that the acura dealer I went too thinks it's fine and doesn't feel there would be any work.
I just KNOW it's not to sound like a diesel truck, but I'm getting tired of being the only one who thinks that.
I'll report back Monday on what happens.
06-23-2008, 03:39 AM
#31
As long as you do the proper warm up and the hot foot afterdrive- there will be no problems with your plugs. The goo is instantly blown out the exhaust as its melted, and if you manage to get something stuck on the plug - you use a little seafoam!!
Its only suggested to change the plugs after-- if you have over 70k miles- because now the new plugs will have a good clean area in which to combust!
Do it now, and in 2,000 miles repeat- then get the 105 service done for a like new car!
Its only suggested to change the plugs after-- if you have over 70k miles- because now the new plugs will have a good clean area in which to combust!
Do it now, and in 2,000 miles repeat- then get the 105 service done for a like new car!
06-23-2008, 08:52 AM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by aznboi2424
Im already at 90k, My plugs are already pretty used up so the seafoam might add more junk on it and render then useless.
06-23-2008, 04:48 PM
#33
It wont hurt- do research on other forums- they did not start making this yesterday!
go to a shop like acura- and ask them do to a fuel induction cleaning service-
see what they come out with, some gas cleaner and some spray stuff for the TB plate, and some stuff to put in the manifold while car idles.....
go to a shop like acura- and ask them do to a fuel induction cleaning service-
see what they come out with, some gas cleaner and some spray stuff for the TB plate, and some stuff to put in the manifold while car idles.....
06-23-2008, 05:44 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
heyitsvu:
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
You did change the engine oil and filter right? you're not just driving around on it!
It's coming up to that 6500 mark, I usually change out my oil and filter every 7k miles, so i warmed my engine, poured a bottle of foam into my crankcase. a bottle into about 5 gallons of gas, and then a bottle through my vac port. Drove it around for two days (roughly 80-120 miles). drained my oil, replace filter, new oil, new plugs (its almost 90k so i figured might as well).
Everytime I do an oil change, I always change out the filter, no matter what. I heard some people reuse the filter for a second time, but i wouldnt do that to my baby
.
09-19-2009, 09:03 PM
#35
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My wife said her Nissan Murano was making a funny noise again. The last 2 times it was the idler pulley going bad. I was away on business so I told her not to worry about it til I got home. I checked it out tomight and it's not the pulley, it was coming from the top end of the engine. I happened to have a can of Seafoam I was going to add to the tank of gas in my TL. I'm no expert but it sounded like a stuck lifter. I warmed up the engine, turned it off, added 6 oz to the oil, and when I fired it back up, the noise went away in a few seconds. I added 2 more oz and ran it around the neighborhood for a while. Still no noise. Could I be so lucky?
I reset the trip meter. I am going to change the oil and filter in 30 to 50 miles. I was running synthetic blend. Maybe I'll try full synthetic.
I reset the trip meter. I am going to change the oil and filter in 30 to 50 miles. I was running synthetic blend. Maybe I'll try full synthetic.
09-20-2009, 02:42 AM
#36
seafoam works best when given 30 minutes with temp/driving to `liquify sludge` seafoams website words
If there was stuff clogging the lifters it will help when cleaned out
My old chevy truck did that noise too- as the oil pressure built up and got to the lifters
Drive it for 30-60 minuts on the freeway and immedialty change oil and filter while warm
If you have an engine you think is very gummed up/dirty inside- first install a new oil filter to be able to catch all the crud- add seafoam- drive- change
different oil wont fix the noise- just hide it. Clean it out good then see whats happening
A mechanics stethascope is $5 at parts stores and can pinpoint noises with it
Freaks the neighbors out too- you probing under the hood with that tool! white lab coat optional
If there was stuff clogging the lifters it will help when cleaned out
My old chevy truck did that noise too- as the oil pressure built up and got to the lifters
Drive it for 30-60 minuts on the freeway and immedialty change oil and filter while warm
If you have an engine you think is very gummed up/dirty inside- first install a new oil filter to be able to catch all the crud- add seafoam- drive- change
different oil wont fix the noise- just hide it. Clean it out good then see whats happening
A mechanics stethascope is $5 at parts stores and can pinpoint noises with it
Freaks the neighbors out too- you probing under the hood with that tool! white lab coat optional
09-21-2009, 01:01 PM
#37
2006 NBP TL MT6/ 02TL-S
Seafoam in oil..
I would be a little afraid to use a full 16 oz. bottle in the oil when the Seafoam instructions say ( I believe) 1.5 ozs. per quart of oil.
1.5 ozs. X 6 qts. = 9 ozs. of Seafoam. 16 ozs. is almost double that rate.
Has any done the full can?
1.5 ozs. X 6 qts. = 9 ozs. of Seafoam. 16 ozs. is almost double that rate.
Has any done the full can?
09-21-2009, 02:40 PM
#38
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I picked up 5qt's of Castrol Syntec and a new filter. I will change the oil and filter after she puts on 30-50 miles. That will be either tonight or tomorrow night. The directions on the can say not to exceed 100 miles. I put in 8 oz. I figure it won't hurt to let it clean for a while.
09-21-2009, 08:16 PM
#39
you get way more info off the real website www.seafoamsales.com than fits on the can
1.5 per qt oil is normal use and can drive up to 150 miles on that
Suggested 30-50 miles/minutes solid driving
Or you can install a new filter to make sure it will catch all the crud and go up to 500 miles- with constant monitoring of dipstick and sludge gathering on it
More product wont work faster or better- time is the best way to get the results, and driving is better--compared to idle in driveway
MUST be engine fully warm from driving when you change it so the crud is liquid and drains out
Our megamod has used a full qt and idle in driveway with no problems for several years, His engine was like new at 200k miles, sparkling inside --so it wont hurt, but its expensive IMO
You could use the rest of that can in the gas or lawn mower
Treat the oil every other change and be fine
Make it a foam party day with oil change- gas -and vac port annually
1.5 per qt oil is normal use and can drive up to 150 miles on that
Suggested 30-50 miles/minutes solid driving
Or you can install a new filter to make sure it will catch all the crud and go up to 500 miles- with constant monitoring of dipstick and sludge gathering on it
More product wont work faster or better- time is the best way to get the results, and driving is better--compared to idle in driveway
MUST be engine fully warm from driving when you change it so the crud is liquid and drains out
Our megamod has used a full qt and idle in driveway with no problems for several years, His engine was like new at 200k miles, sparkling inside --so it wont hurt, but its expensive IMO
You could use the rest of that can in the gas or lawn mower
Treat the oil every other change and be fine
Make it a foam party day with oil change- gas -and vac port annually
09-22-2009, 10:09 AM
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If this works, I will be a believer. I called my wife and she said shes up to 70 miles on the odo and no more noise. maybe I'll let it go another day. I have read great things about seafoam on the GWRRA site for clearing out gummed up carbs. I wish I had read it "before" my idle jets on my wing clogged up. That might be my winter project.
I wonder what Nissan would have done if I took it in to have it looked at. I'm sure it would have been expensive either way. I think I'll pick up a few more cans of seafoam and run some through my motorhome and my TL. I'm a little hesitant to do the intake thing. My car is running like a top.
I wonder what Nissan would have done if I took it in to have it looked at. I'm sure it would have been expensive either way. I think I'll pick up a few more cans of seafoam and run some through my motorhome and my TL. I'm a little hesitant to do the intake thing. My car is running like a top.