Does anyone out there use seafoam and do you think it really helps...

 

Hey Nc01TL, yeah .....lot's of 'Ziners have used "Seafoam" and many will say that it does indeed help !

If ya wanna check it out, try a simple search of the site for many threads concerning the Seafoam product and the applications using it.

 

use our search or just accept the following
YES YOU NEED IT
buy 2 cans at parts store
add 1 can to just under half tank of gas
drive
refill as usual and when just below half (8 gallons) add the 2nd can
drive

when air filter out for cleaning use carb cleaner inside throttle body

2 times in tank is all you have to do - no need for vac port method found in diy

 

Didn't do anything for me but make a lot of smoke. That being said I've done it to quite a few other cars whose owners report a smoother running engine. And yes I put it in the vacuum hose and gas tank. Not in the oil though.

 

Just because you didnt notice anything doesnt mean that it didnt clean things up.

 

biggest smoke show is from the distalates burning. Not really due to the engine "gunk" being dissolved and burned. I have not noticed any major improvements over not having done the seafoam treatment. But as always a cleaner engine runs smoother and more efficient. I think if your car is running smooth to begin with, you will not notice any difference. If your car is running like batcrap then i am sure any type of improvement is welcome.

 

 

vac method and smoke-out drive are not as effective as twice thru the gas at 2 oz per gal fuel
thats 1 can to 8 gal/just under half tank
injectors, valve stems and seats, buildup on piston tops all important
Many do vac method incorrect and dont get all the gunk off

users of tier 1 gas have less to remove, but it still helps
REALLY Helps in oil at half can to oil and drive 30 miles- change oil and filter warm
oil pressure restored, vtec works smoother etc

even the trans tune has been used in TL with great results
wont fix slip but will fix light shudder shift at low rpm,,with new honda fluid after of course!

 

smoke with vac method = heat in cat reacting to oil in seafoam = smoke city!

mechanics use vac method for instant results- needed in diagnosing poor running,
get the carbon off the firing surface of pistons, plus the other parts- is a good starting point

 

True. Is it possible that because i'm at red-line so often not much gunk builds up in the combustion chamber?

And since I haven't tried it in oil yet i'll give it a go at my next change if 01tl says it makes such a big difference.

 

I did it in my TL by adding 1 can to the gas at a quarter tank. Then half of a can through the brake booster and the other into the crankcase. I then changed the oil 150 miles later.

 

If you can find BG products, like fuel system cleaner. it is really good stuff. it works like magic; unlike other products that work only for one tank of fuel.

 

did mine this past weekend, sucked in 1/2 a can, let it sit for 15 min, then fired it up took it for a spirited drive and then let it sit for a few min. Idle's much better and accels much smoother. car runs much better and gets better gas milage than before so i am happy with the results for the price of a can

 

big thread about the vac method why the change now i was about to do it again thats the way i always done it

 

reason for method change: after a phone chat with seafoams top tech guy,
I am advising that NOOBS use the gas tank method twice, instead of vac port

its really hard to screw up, gets the correct MAX dose (more doesnt do better)
of 2 oz per gal fuel.,,thats 1 can to just under half tank fuel
more time running thru hot running engine works best, thats why half tank over 1/4 tank
is suggested

vac method great for instant results on SOME parts but missed the entire fuel line
do at least 1 can in gas if using vac port with 1/2 can

probs a noob faces: doing a proper warm up drive, correct rate of induction, some 2000rpm induction (which most dont know to do), correct cook time, and the all important starting- clearing then drive to burn off gunk,,,
its just easier to do gas tank method

experienced with cars, do vac port- clean TB air plate and lube springs, and still throw a can at the gas tank

midyear maitenance dose- 1 can to just under full tank- 16 gal
ok to do 1 can to half tank if you want- or use other half in oil...

oil noobs! for MAX cleaning effect to 100k+ engine: install new filter- any cheap one will do
add 1/2 can (1.5 oz per qt) to oil and drive up to a week/200 miles and change.
must be warm from 15 minute freeway buzz so all the crud thats not already captured by filter --and sitting on bottem of oil pan- gets liquified, and drains out of the pan

all amounts are per seafoams tec and website - and more does not work faster or better
a million uses besides car too- think lawnmower etc

 

NEVER use the brake booster on the TL as a place to induct seafoam
several reasons and it doesnt feed all 6 cylinders
the master vac port on top of TB does

the old diy even used incorrect vac line- on fenderwell- it only fed rear cyls
very bad to have half of cyls clean-changes compression etc

 

i was about to do the vac method and with a can in the tank for years i was going through this port is this the right one

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...52#post2033721

i'll try the tank method and see or keep using the vac

 

that diy has some errors- rpm during drive. cook time etcs
do it the easy way, in gas,
and make sure to get the TB throat air plate on both sides- carb cleaner or deep creep is better- it lubes the tb hinge pin

can do vac method thru TB throat if desired instead of vac port above TB

at $4.31 a gal and rising daily,,I dont drive at high rpm much,,so the fuel used during heat and burnoff add to the total cost of the job

 

Yeah, the more direct introduction of Seafoam to the "TB" throat.....sorta reminds me of the glorious days of yesteryear.

Back in the day, especially after a long cold season of winter driving in which the car was run more slowly with junky blended gas, along with alot of warmup idling. Once the weather broke and the groundhogs started sticking their heads out, out would come the "Gumout" .....right down the motor's carburetors with the butterflys gasping wide open !

Back then, the car's exhaust would be sooty black !!!! Good ol carbon cooking, sometimes made the ol gal choke a bit !

 

cool I'll give it a try

 

Yeah, directly put the "foam" down the "TB" throat for quicker results, especially if the ol gal has been sorta on the lazy side lately.

 

Really? because I have that shudder and have asked some people about it. The fluid is actually a bit burnt and smelly. But everyone tells me to not touch anything as changing fluid now can cause it to get worse..

 

Dont know if it works on not...but I do it every 15K miles....

I use 2 cans....I put 1/2 can in the gas tank which has like 3-4 gallons of gas in it....then I put a full can in the oil crank case....and the left over 1/2 can in the vac port....

so am guessing this will clean the intake/fuel path and junk if any in the crank case....

WITHIN 200 miles of doing seafoam, I change my oil....

 

burnt and smelly not good
may indicate worse problem than dirty selenoids,,which seafoam will clean for you
if cluthes are worn = thats not fixable

if in doubt take a 3oz sample and send to blackstone labs, 20 bucks will tell you whats in that oil,,,normal or bad things

if you have 100Kmiles and never changed the fluid,,,thats not ideal~

if you have good hookup between gears, no slipping when rpm heavy getting on freeway,,trans is ok except for on very light throttle and lower gears as slight shudder as it shifts from 1-2 which improves with a bit more throttle,,
then cleaning will probably help you
will need to replace all the fluid (3x3) afterwards and use the NEW design honda fluid
dw-1 for us
will also need new external filter, see diy, 25$ aftermarket

 

only have to change oil IF you added some to crankcase!!

as noted above-- 1.5 oz per qt oil is MAX dose and more does not make it work faster or better! just waste your money
Longer amounts of time, drives over 30 minutes make it all work best
any method will work, I m trying show where you can save 4 bucks worth to use somewhere else
that extra 8oz in oil can go in tank for better use

reason to do at half tank, few run the tank down far into the low light being on
thats 3 gal in tank ,2.7 useable,
IF there is crud in the tank it lives on the bottem
seafoam will LIQUIFY (seafoams description of action) carbon and crud
so it passes thru system

note TB throat and master vac port on top of tb go to the same place
but 20 inches vac at port, and only a few at TH throat

Getting the TB air plate is a seperate job to clean and is needed for smooth idle and operation..get the cables and springs too

 

Seafoam is my friend.....

~1/2 can in the crankcase drove 30 miles before oil change
~2 cans in gas tank 1 at 1/2 full and 1 with a full tank
~1/2 can in vac line. 2x so far smoked up both times.
~transtune 1/2 can drove only 30 miles before atf change and atf filter change.

Transtune/if you read the directions it states that once it is used it keeps cleaning and working even after the atf change.

Since you are adding it to transmission filler and three quarts come out some of the transtune stays in the transmission and keeps working. Maybe a 1x3 and another 1x3 a month later to remove all, or perhaps a 1/4 can and driving a bit before changing atf oil.

Maybe not the best of ideas for 2nd generation acura transmissions that are very sensitive.

Transtune like seafoam are cleaners and should be used as such....

 

if you use trans tune or any cleaner in trans-
must do a 3x3 or running method `accord method` to get all of the old fluid old,,
it needs replacement anyway, and now it really does
some residual cleaner will lurk in a corner and thats ok,,its minor

but dont leave over half the capacity =7.3qts, still there full of cleaner and crud!
filter replacment important with this job too

 

www.seafoamsales.com see tech section for much more info than fits on the can