Rough idle and cel on...code 1457!
#1
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
Rough idle and cel on...code 1457!
I just checked the cel today and got 1457!
Sometimes my idle is rough and the car stalls but most of the time it's smooth.
I cleaned the iacv 2 week ago and tb. I had a cel on then so I pulled the battery to reset it and it just came back on 3 days ago. What is 1457?
Sometimes my idle is rough and the car stalls but most of the time it's smooth.
I cleaned the iacv 2 week ago and tb. I had a cel on then so I pulled the battery to reset it and it just came back on 3 days ago. What is 1457?
#2
Senior Moderator
P1457 is a leak in the EVAP Control System. (EVAP canister system usually the valve inside) Check the vacuum hoses under hood to make sure they are attached and not broken.
#6
go back and ck all your work is the best starting point
for vac lines- remove and ck the end for swelling or splits,,that can happen when removed the first time after many years
temp guage has a sendor, is the wire on? remove and clean both sides of contact.
ck All Ground wires is already on your list
You pulled the battery NEG cable to clear the codes- correct? not the POS cable
You can remove the CLOCK fuse -on passenger end of dash- to force an ecu reset,
and not have to enter the radio security code
You removed the entire TB from manifold for iacv cleaning, correct?
in another thread its suggested the TB to spacer gasket or the spacer to manifold gasket can be installed flipped/upside down
causing running problems
I have seen overtorqued parts crack
Did you use a torque wrench or had a good idea of torque feel on assembly?
Shoot carb cleaner at vac connections, anything you had loose etc
if the engine rpm jumps = you found a vac leak
for vac lines- remove and ck the end for swelling or splits,,that can happen when removed the first time after many years
temp guage has a sendor, is the wire on? remove and clean both sides of contact.
ck All Ground wires is already on your list
You pulled the battery NEG cable to clear the codes- correct? not the POS cable
You can remove the CLOCK fuse -on passenger end of dash- to force an ecu reset,
and not have to enter the radio security code
You removed the entire TB from manifold for iacv cleaning, correct?
in another thread its suggested the TB to spacer gasket or the spacer to manifold gasket can be installed flipped/upside down
causing running problems
I have seen overtorqued parts crack
Did you use a torque wrench or had a good idea of torque feel on assembly?
Shoot carb cleaner at vac connections, anything you had loose etc
if the engine rpm jumps = you found a vac leak
#7
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
go back and ck all your work is the best starting point
temp guage has a sendor, is the wire on? remove and clean both sides of contact.
ck All Ground wires is already on your list
You removed the entire TB from manifold for iacv cleaning, correct?
in another thread its suggested the TB to spacer gasket or the spacer to manifold gasket can be installed flipped/upside down
causing running problems
temp guage has a sendor, is the wire on? remove and clean both sides of contact.
ck All Ground wires is already on your list
You removed the entire TB from manifold for iacv cleaning, correct?
in another thread its suggested the TB to spacer gasket or the spacer to manifold gasket can be installed flipped/upside down
causing running problems
I removed the tb to clean it and the iacv and to the best of my knowledge i put everything back the correct way. i will check for cracks in hoses.
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#9
code P1457 update........
Hey Hondas4Life, if ya have not tried the "Search" feature of the site yet, now may be a good time to check it out. This particular thread is over a year old and it's doubtful that "1st Timer" will respond to ya.
So, in moving forward .....there has been previous other posts on this subject, which when searched, may be helpful with resolving your current problem. Also, for more detailed info....consider downloading the factory service manual. It has troubleshooting and tons of valuable info on servicing and repairing our TL's.
#10
Hey Hondas4Life, if ya have not tried the "Search" feature of the site yet, now may be a good time to check it out. This particular thread is over a year old and it's doubtful that "1st Timer" will respond to ya.
So, in moving forward .....there has been previous other posts on this subject, which when searched, may be helpful with resolving your current problem. Also, for more detailed info....consider downloading the factory service manual. It has troubleshooting and tons of valuable info on servicing and repairing our TL's.
So, in moving forward .....there has been previous other posts on this subject, which when searched, may be helpful with resolving your current problem. Also, for more detailed info....consider downloading the factory service manual. It has troubleshooting and tons of valuable info on servicing and repairing our TL's.
I guess you can say I had a "AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FO' THAT" attitude and wanted this resolved so I will pass my emissions test in Illinois. I just hope my mileage gets better. Last time i checked I was at 21.5 mpg but that was on winter blend gas and a lot of warming up the car before driving.
For those wanting to replace these items... look around for cheaper parts like I did and look for discount codes for online ordering. You will also need to buy two 5mm X 12mm long hex stainless steel bolts from a home center. I wrapped the threads with teflon tape before installing the valve onto the canister for good measure. The valve will be COMPLETELY rusted on to the canister if you live in snowy winters therefore, I recommend not wasting your time trying to remove the valve from the canister and just remove together. There is only one bolt on the canister (which I also replaced with stainless steel), one quick connect cable and about 3 hoses you will need to disconnect and the thing will just fall off. It is in front of the gas tank.
For a 2003 TL-S:
Canister set P/N 17011-S84-A00
Canister Vent Shut Valve P/N 17310-S0X-A0
Last edited by Hondas4Life; 04-24-2013 at 10:02 PM.
#11
ONE LAST THING:
Don't over-fill your gas tank. Although these two items are common replacements in the northern states due to rust, anyone that is topping off the gas tank for long periods of time is risking having issues with gas venting.
Don't over-fill your gas tank. Although these two items are common replacements in the northern states due to rust, anyone that is topping off the gas tank for long periods of time is risking having issues with gas venting.
#12
Hey Hondas4life, .....Thanks for following up with the helpful tips on the P1457 code.
This info will surely be of great value and beneficial to other 'Ziner's located in the rust belt.
This info will surely be of great value and beneficial to other 'Ziner's located in the rust belt.
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