I just checked the cel today and got 1457!
Sometimes my idle is rough and the car stalls but most of the time it's smooth.
I cleaned the iacv 2 week ago and tb. I had a cel on then so I pulled the battery to reset it and it just came back on 3 days ago. What is 1457?

 

P1457 is a leak in the EVAP Control System. (EVAP canister system usually the valve inside) Check the vacuum hoses under hood to make sure they are attached and not broken.

 

All seem to be fine.

 

Now I have the cel and tcs lights on.
New code, 0118.

 

Temp gauge is not working either...wtf!!!

 

go back and ck all your work is the best starting point

for vac lines- remove and ck the end for swelling or splits,,that can happen when removed the first time after many years

temp guage has a sendor, is the wire on? remove and clean both sides of contact.
ck All Ground wires is already on your list

You pulled the battery NEG cable to clear the codes- correct? not the POS cable

You can remove the CLOCK fuse -on passenger end of dash- to force an ecu reset,
and not have to enter the radio security code

You removed the entire TB from manifold for iacv cleaning, correct?
in another thread its suggested the TB to spacer gasket or the spacer to manifold gasket can be installed flipped/upside down
causing running problems

I have seen overtorqued parts crack
Did you use a torque wrench or had a good idea of torque feel on assembly?

Shoot carb cleaner at vac connections, anything you had loose etc
if the engine rpm jumps = you found a vac leak

 

Where is the wire for the temp guage sendor? BTW,i noticed the temp guage was showing a bit of temp,2 lines at most,by the time i got home. Could this be that my thermostat is stuck open?
I removed the tb to clean it and the iacv and to the best of my knowledge i put everything back the correct way. i will check for cracks in hoses.

 

How about an update? I'm also getting the P1457 code.

 

Hey Hondas4Life, if ya have not tried the "Search" feature of the site yet, now may be a good time to check it out. This particular thread is over a year old and it's doubtful that "1st Timer" will respond to ya.

So, in moving forward .....there has been previous other posts on this subject, which when searched, may be helpful with resolving your current problem. Also, for more detailed info....consider downloading the factory service manual. It has troubleshooting and tons of valuable info on servicing and repairing our TL's.

 

Yeah, thanks. I ended up fixing this yesterday by purchasing the vent canister from O'reilly Parts for $65 and the canister vent shut valve that's attached to it from Advance Auto for about $55 (after discount). It is not much cheaper than OEM but I didn't want to wait. Both items are made from BWD Intermodal which seem 100% identical in quality to OEM (made in Japan). I also splurged on a $10 gas cap. The CEL light hasn't come back. These items are known to rust in the northern regions and will throw this code. My car wasn't idling rough until I reset the CEL - but I believe that was due to the car's idle learning process.

I guess you can say I had a "AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FO' THAT" attitude and wanted this resolved so I will pass my emissions test in Illinois. I just hope my mileage gets better. Last time i checked I was at 21.5 mpg but that was on winter blend gas and a lot of warming up the car before driving.

For those wanting to replace these items... look around for cheaper parts like I did and look for discount codes for online ordering. You will also need to buy two 5mm X 12mm long hex stainless steel bolts from a home center. I wrapped the threads with teflon tape before installing the valve onto the canister for good measure. The valve will be COMPLETELY rusted on to the canister if you live in snowy winters therefore, I recommend not wasting your time trying to remove the valve from the canister and just remove together. There is only one bolt on the canister (which I also replaced with stainless steel), one quick connect cable and about 3 hoses you will need to disconnect and the thing will just fall off. It is in front of the gas tank.

For a 2003 TL-S:
Canister set P/N 17011-S84-A00
Canister Vent Shut Valve P/N 17310-S0X-A0

 

ONE LAST THING:

Don't over-fill your gas tank. Although these two items are common replacements in the northern states due to rust, anyone that is topping off the gas tank for long periods of time is risking having issues with gas venting.

 

Hey Hondas4life, .....Thanks for following up with the helpful tips on the P1457 code.
This info will surely be of great value and beneficial to other 'Ziner's located in the rust belt.