I need rotors for my 99 TL...

PowerStop are making them, KVR too. Which ones are the best????????

And do they make a difference? What's the price? (checked out the powerstopbrakes.com site, but i dont know the part number so..)

plz reply!

(and i know it has been posted but i couldnt find the info i needed.)


@cUr@-TL

 

i have the kvr and they are nice. ill see if i can find the pic of them.

 

http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=35517

 

Anyone got any info on where we can get slotted rotors from? Kingmotorsports doesn't have them listed on their site for 99+

 

click on brakes up top. not sure if he has slotted but he def. has drilled.

 

Yeah, Tim has drilled ones, but not slotted. Thanks though. Hmm...I think I need to get that membership so that I can get a discount on them

 

i am very happy to have drilled rotors. stopping is so much smoother. but then again my old rotors had been warped beyond recognition.

 

We have both, slotted or crossdrilled

And I will add these to MVC forum

 

there you go.....time for a membership. as soon as i get a little room on my c/c i will be gold

 

Is there a link to the MVC forum Tim (or for anybody who may know), or do you have to be a member before you can view? Thanks.

 

I had my rotors custom done...they are both slotted & cross drilled up front and cross drilled in the rear. Got them done at EBT ( EuroBrakeTech ).

You can check mine out here: My Pics

 

Thx for the replies. But i'd like to know how much are the KVR rotors.. and what's the part # for the PowerStop Rotors.


thx


@cUr@-TL

 

I just called EBT and am waiting on a price for some rotors and pads. Thanks SlyTLS.

 

Do the cross drilled or cross drilled and slotted rotors resist warping any less, or is it just for increased stopping and less fading?

as for cross drilled vs. cross drilled AND slotted, what added benefit does the slotting do?

 

Yes, they resist warping because they dissapate heat, and offer better stopping distance and less wear on the pads. A note of caution though...you have to have the right pads to get the benefits from the rotors. It was recommended that you should just go with slotted and cross drilled rotors in the front because that is where 70% of your braking is done. If you want to spend the extra cash, then you can get the back ones done as well.

I think the slotting adds to the heat dissapation factor of the rotor.

 

The slots also clean the pads of any debris causing better grip on the rotors.

 

Never heard that. The slotted do desipate gases when driving on wet roads as well as crossdrilled.

I would only used slotted for racing. No need for slotted on the streets. A combination of both is good too.

 

Is breaking any loader? Any Noise?

 

No, slotted & cross drilled rotors don't make any more noise than a stock rotor would. The only difference is the stopping distance and asthetics.

 

my 4 kvr's and 4 axxis pads came out to just under $700 i believe.

 

I warpped 3 sets of Powerstop front rotors on my Accord V6. The first time was a bad installation by a shop. The second and third set were simply unexplained. Cross-drilled rotors would cool too fast in rainy weather. The cause of rotor warpping is fast and uneven cooling. In fact, the cooling capacity of cross-drilled or slotted rotors is less than stock rotors because of removed rotors mass. A disk rotor is simply a huge heat sink, when material is removed, it's not as efficient. The right way to do this would be to go for a big brake upgrade; the rotors are cross-drilled, however, the rotor mass is compensated by a larger disk area.

I really don't recommend cross-drilled or slotted rotors for street driving unless you plan on doing repeated high speed stops for no reason. Brake pads upgrade will most likely give you the most performance for the buck.

 

I totally agree with this statement. Got my Endless front brake pads from Tim here, and I must say the diference in braking distance and feel is like night and day.

 

But does it warp the factory rotors using aftermarket pads?? I've try to quote from ahmotors.com in PA and they said they'll just install factory pads since there's a known problem with the rotors using aftermarket pads.

 

Overheating can also cause warping of rotors due to the fact that metal is more mallable at higher temperatures. With cross drilled rotors, less heat is generated because there is less mass to come into contact with the pads. Less mass means less friction, which means less heat.

I'm wondering how cross-drilled rotors actually improve braking???

 

I'm using factory rotors with my Endless pads, and so far no problems.

 

I got powerstop cross-drilled rotors for $55 a piece from my local shop.

And on my girl's 95 240sx, she has Axxis Metal Master pads on her stock rotors and it's squealing badly, a shop told me you should never used those pads on stock rotors, it'll warp the rotors.

 

Are you serious You can't even buy factory rotors for that cheap!

 

That's strange then. I took off my front set of warpped Powerstop rotors and put a new set of stock rotors back on with Axxis Metal Master pads. I've been on this for 6000 miles now with no problems. Squealing is not definitely a sign of rotor or pad problem all the time. It can be caused by installation with no pad shims, no shim grease, too much brake dust deposit, moisture...etc.

As for the discussion whether cross-drilled rotors improve braking, in my opinion, NO, for street driving. It improves braking under the condition that repeated high speed stops is needed, which happens usually on race track only (unless you drive like a mad man on the streets). Repeated high speed stops generate lots of heat and gas, and that's where the holes and slots come into play. I drove on cross-drilled rotors for 25000 miles, now I'm back to stock. I felt no discernable difference at all performance wise. The one big factor where it makes difference is still pads/pad material.

The only way to avoid rotor warpping is to:
- Brake long with consistent force. Sudden hard braking generates excessive heat.
- Cryogenically treat the rotors. There are actually these services offered. They place the rotors in a room and cycle the temp from -50 degree to over 500 degree for a period of 24 hours. Your rotors are virtually broken in after that.
- Avoid fast cooling such as splashing cold water at hot rotors. Another good reason not to get a car wash right after you drive for a long period of time.

 

$55? damn that is cheap. lucky you.

 

It's good to know that I won't need cross-drilled or slotted rotors for every day street driving. Thanks for the tip and info.

Your comments about cryogenically treat the rotors
Where do you go to do that? I never heard of such a service. Have you personally tried this with your rotors? How much did they charge you for doing this?

 

Believe me, there are plenty of shops offering this service. See below links:
http://www.fisher.org/store/detail.lasso?SKU=CRY4
http://www.appliedrotortechnology.com/
http://www.stopyoucold.com/faq.html

I was so upset that after I warpped my 3rd set of cross-drilled rotors, I thought about getting this done. I did a research on why rotors warp and found that the most common causes are fast cooling or heating. Other things could be incorrectly torqued wheels, which is most of the time overlooked by shop mechanics. I don't know how many times I see people putting wheels back on with over-torqued lugnuts using an air gun (damages lugnuts, wheel studs, and rotors). By the way, the cryogenic process goes as low as -300 degrees. :wow:

But in general, I don't see any point of getting slotted or drilled rotors for street use. It's mostly for aesthetics and looks. They were good while they lasted for me, but myself and many others have complained about warpping problems with aftermarket rotors. Big brake upgrade is even more of an overkill since you probably will never make full use of it unless you intentionally stomp on your brakes hard or nearly involve in a close accident all day long. Most people who upgrade their brakes when the engine/power is dramatically modified and increased, such as those for turbo and supercharger applications. But for basic bolt-ons, the stock setup with upgraded pads should serve you well. Upgrade wisely.