i just recently installed my rotors...had a minor problem and got it fixed...the rotors were installed with EBC greenstuff pads.....its broken in and now ihave about 350 miles on them....question is....when i stop....at the very end of the stop i hear my brakes squeak....is this normal? its kind of annoying... is there something im suppose to do to reduce the noise level? like spray brake stuff on it? It doesnt squeak during the braking just at the point around 10-0 mph....

 

that is becase you are not using the stock pads. Aftermarket have that kind of problem. I just replaced mine today with brand new stock pads and resurface the rotors, very smooth.

 

but then again...im not using stock rotors either? so i guess most people have this small squeaking problem?

 

well thats the problem with aftermarket stuff.

 

i get this problem also. brembo rotors and axxis pads. but i replaced it with the honda pads and no squeaks at all! so dont worry about aftermarket rotors, as long as the pads are OEM's it should be fine.

 

stock pads go for 45 bucks. Ones at the front.

 

jsut get the front and rear package for like 85 bucks at the dealer..

 

I have Rotora slotted rotors all around with Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. They have been on for about 8-9 months with no squeaking.

 

i had the ebc pads and they never made ANY noise. was anti squeal used when they were put on? if not that could very well be your problem.

now that you have acouple hundred miles on go ahead and bed your pads in also.

 

what do you mean by "bed your pads in also"??

 

im actually interested in this bed your pads or whatever.. how can it be done?

 

go out to aunpopulated area.


1. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

3. During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

4. Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

5. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

6. If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

7. After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

8. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.

 

damn, thanks for the bed-in process. this should be helpful. but this will minimize/cease the squeaking of the breaks right? so no more annoying loud squeaks that can be heard a block away after this?

 

possibly.

like i asked above, when the pads were installed was anti squeal installed with the pads?

 

i have no idea what anti-squeals are. i just had them put in at the mechanics shop. does it usually come with the breaks or are they done before installation?

 

you would have to ask the installer then if he used it. its a gooy substance that gets appplied to the back of the pad so that it doesnt rub and cause the squeal.

 

i didnt use it...didnt know iw as suppose to.....can i just apply it now?

 

and after you're done with the break in, you probably wont make it home 'cause you'll be outa gas!!

When i get home i'm ordering some new Dimple/Slotted rotors with "Zink Plating" off ebay... (dimple/slotted is like drilled/slotted but the holes dont go completely across).

BUT, should i get new pads or use the ones i got? my rotors are have some warping.

 

What the anti-squeek actually is is a bonding agent that keeps your shims (the thin metal plates between your caliper and your brake pads) from vibrating and causing squealing. You'll need to take your pads off. Then make sure your shims are firmly attached to the backs of the pads with their clips and anti-squeal agent. I would also bevel the leading edge of the pad where it makes contact with the rotor. Use a grinder. This should give you quiet brakes. Best of luck.