Rotor problems petition - PLEASE READ
06-26-2003, 10:35 PM
#82
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my font disks were warp and my back pads were low at about 12k ...i managed to got new front disks and pads all around for free.
lucky i guees...because he didnt want to cover them in the beginng then i told him not to touch anything and that i was going to take it elsewhere.. by the time i called him backed he told me that he took care of everything.
fiddlyD
lucky i guees...because he didnt want to cover them in the beginng then i told him not to touch anything and that i was going to take it elsewhere.. by the time i called him backed he told me that he took care of everything.
fiddlyD
06-29-2003, 03:01 AM
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Not trying to Flame anybody here, but I think the warping rotors problem we have is really a combination of results of neglecting... (note, not just the owner.)
First off, as some of us here said Honda/Acura had the "destrutive pads." I would correct it as poor quality pads instead of "too abrasive" and "destructive" cause if the rotor is too hard a.k.a. race pads that actually eats your rotors, you won't be able to stop in the first couple attempts.
As a side note, I recomend everyone go checking this out: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
So next time the Acura service rep starting bs-ing, you can just slap him left and right.
Then, remember how many of us test driving "new" cars with no mercy style of driving, ie... take off and rev it to redline, stop violently just to see if " the car is able to stop on a dime"... Well, even after factory "Bed-in" the then new rotors/ pads properly, you should still driving easy on the brake system on the initial 500 to 1000 miles. Anything that went wrong can damage the pads and rotors prematurely... So this is more like to dealer's responsiblities.
Then stop at the traffic light with transmission at "Drive" and holding the brake at the traffic light is just normal to a lot of drivers, if that happens enough at the break-in period, it will also well, hot spoting the rotors. so Owner's problem.
Some of you mention the cross drilled rotors, I don't know how many of you know that, the drilled holes never serve any advantage as braking performance goes, but only for weight saving. The Slotting is the one that can "cut" into the pad and wipe out uneven pad deposits. If you think any cross drilled rotors do better than the stock brake, more likely it will be the material they used to cast the rotor is better, or the vent (inside the rotor) remove heat better.
as the Stop Tech article (the one I linked above) mentioned, if the rotor had been damaged, if the re-surface or grinding process did not do properly, which does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again.
This is why we have some members "resurface at 30k then 10k after it's warpped again, resurface, warp agian another 12k...." The rotor also need the Bedding in, easy break in procedure after the rotor resurface and new pads...
Well, I just want all of us be better educated.
I'm not an expert, but those Stop Tech article will make you a lot more educated, than, urhh, the regular Acura Rep, at least on the brake...
First off, as some of us here said Honda/Acura had the "destrutive pads." I would correct it as poor quality pads instead of "too abrasive" and "destructive" cause if the rotor is too hard a.k.a. race pads that actually eats your rotors, you won't be able to stop in the first couple attempts.
As a side note, I recomend everyone go checking this out: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
So next time the Acura service rep starting bs-ing, you can just slap him left and right.
Then, remember how many of us test driving "new" cars with no mercy style of driving, ie... take off and rev it to redline, stop violently just to see if " the car is able to stop on a dime"... Well, even after factory "Bed-in" the then new rotors/ pads properly, you should still driving easy on the brake system on the initial 500 to 1000 miles. Anything that went wrong can damage the pads and rotors prematurely... So this is more like to dealer's responsiblities.
Then stop at the traffic light with transmission at "Drive" and holding the brake at the traffic light is just normal to a lot of drivers, if that happens enough at the break-in period, it will also well, hot spoting the rotors. so Owner's problem.
Some of you mention the cross drilled rotors, I don't know how many of you know that, the drilled holes never serve any advantage as braking performance goes, but only for weight saving. The Slotting is the one that can "cut" into the pad and wipe out uneven pad deposits. If you think any cross drilled rotors do better than the stock brake, more likely it will be the material they used to cast the rotor is better, or the vent (inside the rotor) remove heat better.
as the Stop Tech article (the one I linked above) mentioned, if the rotor had been damaged, if the re-surface or grinding process did not do properly, which does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again.
This is why we have some members "resurface at 30k then 10k after it's warpped again, resurface, warp agian another 12k...." The rotor also need the Bedding in, easy break in procedure after the rotor resurface and new pads...
Well, I just want all of us be better educated.
I'm not an expert, but those Stop Tech article will make you a lot more educated, than, urhh, the regular Acura Rep, at least on the brake...
06-29-2003, 02:26 PM
#84
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Originally posted by NSXDreamer
Not trying to Flame anybody here, but I think the warping rotors problem we have is really a combination of results of neglecting... (note, not just the owner.)
First off, as some of us here said Honda/Acura had the "destrutive pads." I would correct it as poor quality pads instead of "too abrasive" and "destructive" cause if the rotor is too hard a.k.a. race pads that actually eats your rotors, you won't be able to stop in the first couple attempts.
As a side note, I recomend everyone go checking this out: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
So next time the Acura service rep starting bs-ing, you can just slap him left and right.
Then, remember how many of us test driving "new" cars with no mercy style of driving, ie... take off and rev it to redline, stop violently just to see if " the car is able to stop on a dime"... Well, even after factory "Bed-in" the then new rotors/ pads properly, you should still driving easy on the brake system on the initial 500 to 1000 miles. Anything that went wrong can damage the pads and rotors prematurely... So this is more like to dealer's responsiblities.
Then stop at the traffic light with transmission at "Drive" and holding the brake at the traffic light is just normal to a lot of drivers, if that happens enough at the break-in period, it will also well, hot spoting the rotors. so Owner's problem.
Some of you mention the cross drilled rotors, I don't know how many of you know that, the drilled holes never serve any advantage as braking performance goes, but only for weight saving. The Slotting is the one that can "cut" into the pad and wipe out uneven pad deposits. If you think any cross drilled rotors do better than the stock brake, more likely it will be the material they used to cast the rotor is better, or the vent (inside the rotor) remove heat better.
as the Stop Tech article (the one I linked above) mentioned, if the rotor had been damaged, if the re-surface or grinding process did not do properly, which does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again.
This is why we have some members "resurface at 30k then 10k after it's warpped again, resurface, warp agian another 12k...." The rotor also need the Bedding in, easy break in procedure after the rotor resurface and new pads...
Well, I just want all of us be better educated.
I'm not an expert, but those Stop Tech article will make you a lot more educated, than, urhh, the regular Acura Rep, at least on the brake...
Not trying to Flame anybody here, but I think the warping rotors problem we have is really a combination of results of neglecting... (note, not just the owner.)
First off, as some of us here said Honda/Acura had the "destrutive pads." I would correct it as poor quality pads instead of "too abrasive" and "destructive" cause if the rotor is too hard a.k.a. race pads that actually eats your rotors, you won't be able to stop in the first couple attempts.
As a side note, I recomend everyone go checking this out: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
So next time the Acura service rep starting bs-ing, you can just slap him left and right.
Then, remember how many of us test driving "new" cars with no mercy style of driving, ie... take off and rev it to redline, stop violently just to see if " the car is able to stop on a dime"... Well, even after factory "Bed-in" the then new rotors/ pads properly, you should still driving easy on the brake system on the initial 500 to 1000 miles. Anything that went wrong can damage the pads and rotors prematurely... So this is more like to dealer's responsiblities.
Then stop at the traffic light with transmission at "Drive" and holding the brake at the traffic light is just normal to a lot of drivers, if that happens enough at the break-in period, it will also well, hot spoting the rotors. so Owner's problem.
Some of you mention the cross drilled rotors, I don't know how many of you know that, the drilled holes never serve any advantage as braking performance goes, but only for weight saving. The Slotting is the one that can "cut" into the pad and wipe out uneven pad deposits. If you think any cross drilled rotors do better than the stock brake, more likely it will be the material they used to cast the rotor is better, or the vent (inside the rotor) remove heat better.
as the Stop Tech article (the one I linked above) mentioned, if the rotor had been damaged, if the re-surface or grinding process did not do properly, which does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again.
This is why we have some members "resurface at 30k then 10k after it's warpped again, resurface, warp agian another 12k...." The rotor also need the Bedding in, easy break in procedure after the rotor resurface and new pads...
Well, I just want all of us be better educated.
I'm not an expert, but those Stop Tech article will make you a lot more educated, than, urhh, the regular Acura Rep, at least on the brake...
During my break-in period, I babied the brakes, taking care not to get them hot. During the next 23k miles, I drove the car "sportily", but I didn't abuse it. And I didn't make any extreme stops to test braking ability. Then, at 25k miles, I started to notice the tell-tale signs of warped rotors. I took the car in at 28k and Acura replaced all 4 rotors and pads.
Regarding the link, and the comment about having never seen a truly warped rotor, well, all I can say is that I'm pretty darn sure I have. On my previous car, I watched as the rotor was turned on the lathe. It was easy to see when the bit was carving metal, and when it wasn't. An obvious shiny patch of cleanly cut metal would wobble around and around as the rotor turned. After several passes, eventually the bit was in constant contact with metal. At this point, the surface of the rotor is trued.
Just my two cents...
06-29-2003, 05:36 PM
#85
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I think when you see the Fresh Carving metal, that part was what it supposed to be, and the other part was the deposit... We are thinking the other way around, thus lead to the Brake pads too hard Bull****....
but this is just guessing, because I actually think of the same when I read the article, I take the FAQ from the Stoptech since they are the company that makes good brake kit for a lot of higher end performance cars with very good customer's feedback, and believe it or not, they do a lot of extensive research... What I trying to say is, those guys know at least 10 times more about brakes than most of us do, if not 100 times....
but this is just guessing, because I actually think of the same when I read the article, I take the FAQ from the Stoptech since they are the company that makes good brake kit for a lot of higher end performance cars with very good customer's feedback, and believe it or not, they do a lot of extensive research... What I trying to say is, those guys know at least 10 times more about brakes than most of us do, if not 100 times....
06-30-2003, 09:59 PM
#86
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Originally posted by NSXDreamer
I think when you see the Fresh Carving metal, that part was what it supposed to be, and the other part was the deposit... We are thinking the other way around, thus lead to the Brake pads too hard Bull****....
I think when you see the Fresh Carving metal, that part was what it supposed to be, and the other part was the deposit... We are thinking the other way around, thus lead to the Brake pads too hard Bull****....
If there was a deposit of brake pad material on the rotor, that deposited material would bulge out, and would be the first thing removed by the lathe. No doubt those guys know brakes, tho...
07-01-2003, 09:20 PM
#87
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Rotor warped and resurfaced by dealer free of charge at 9,200 miles. Vehicle now only have 9,500 so I'm not sure when it'll warp again..but I'm sure it will.
randomwalk101@yahoo.com
2002 Acura TL
randomwalk101@yahoo.com
2002 Acura TL
07-02-2003, 07:52 PM
#88
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2002 TLS - Dealer turned fronts at 17K. Said they knew it was a "KNOWN PROBLEM" and if they warped again they would replace under warranty. They did not replace the pads. Still smooth at 17.5K, but we'll see!
07-03-2003, 12:29 AM
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Originally posted by NSXDreamer
I think when you see the Fresh Carving metal, that part was what it supposed to be, and the other part was the deposit... We are thinking the other way around, thus lead to the Brake pads too hard Bull****....
but this is just guessing, because I actually think of the same when I read the article, I take the FAQ from the Stoptech since they are the company that makes good brake kit for a lot of higher end performance cars with very good customer's feedback, and believe it or not, they do a lot of extensive research... What I trying to say is, those guys know at least 10 times more about brakes than most of us do, if not 100 times....
I think when you see the Fresh Carving metal, that part was what it supposed to be, and the other part was the deposit... We are thinking the other way around, thus lead to the Brake pads too hard Bull****....
but this is just guessing, because I actually think of the same when I read the article, I take the FAQ from the Stoptech since they are the company that makes good brake kit for a lot of higher end performance cars with very good customer's feedback, and believe it or not, they do a lot of extensive research... What I trying to say is, those guys know at least 10 times more about brakes than most of us do, if not 100 times....
I just replaced my rotors w a brand named Centric by Raybestos.
Anyone familiar with this brand?
It's the slotted type as opposed to the drilled type of rotor.
I'm driving the car more aggressively this time and really punching the brakes hard with the least care. No matter what conclusion I may arrive at, if this rotor warps then I'll just replace it with another brand. I'll just go that route
So far the car drives and brakes smooth to date.
Let's see 10,000 miles from now.
Does your car still have OE rotors or some aftermarket ones?
juniel
07-05-2003, 04:25 PM
#90
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2002 TL-P, 19 months, 29k miles. I just had my rotors resurfaced 2 days ago under warranty. My dealer was cool about it (I have my car serviced there and pay lots for them to do so).
I do mostly freeway driving and during rush hour, I tend to use the SS so I don't have to brake as much. At other times, I do drive a bit aggressively, but don't slam on the brakes. I am also careful about washing the car. I handwash, and only do it an hour or more after the car's last trip so I don't get cold water on the hot rotors.
I am hoping these measures lead to my not needing another turning, or, worse, a complete replacement, for a while. Judging from others' comments, I'm not hopeful. I'll just wear the hell out of the rotors and replace them with Brembos when the time comes.
I do mostly freeway driving and during rush hour, I tend to use the SS so I don't have to brake as much. At other times, I do drive a bit aggressively, but don't slam on the brakes. I am also careful about washing the car. I handwash, and only do it an hour or more after the car's last trip so I don't get cold water on the hot rotors.
I am hoping these measures lead to my not needing another turning, or, worse, a complete replacement, for a while. Judging from others' comments, I'm not hopeful. I'll just wear the hell out of the rotors and replace them with Brembos when the time comes.
07-06-2003, 11:55 AM
#91
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just started to notice a loud vibration today, i guess i'll be a new member of the resurfaced rotors club soon.....i'm going to go to the dealer tomorrow, i'll let you guys know what they come up with. 
07-09-2003, 05:26 PM
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Some of you mention the cross drilled rotors...the drilled holes never serve any advantage as braking performance goes
If you think any cross drilled rotors do better than the stock brake, more likely it will be the material they used to cast the rotor is better, or the vent (inside the rotor) remove heat better.
Is it the material used in casting? Could it be the better cooling? Who knows? I want to go cross-drilled or slotted when the TL's rotors are no longer covered under warranty just because of my own experience with them.
07-10-2003, 02:29 PM
#96
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Thank god it's not just me!! Here I am thinking that I've been braking to hard (I come right up on people's bumpers when stopping cause I'm braking so lightly) and now I see I'm not alone. I've noticed slight vibrations at 5k, went away for a while and now seems to be getting worse at 8k. I think I'm going to be in for service after the next hard stop.
07-12-2003, 11:51 PM
#97
Three Wheelin'
Here everyone, click this link and READ THIS .
This tells you everything you needed to know about "warping" rotors.
My rotors crapped out at 12k miles (my tranny actually made it to 32k before that went). The rotors and pads were replaced for free (as was the tranny) By 25k miles, the shaking started up again slowly. I dealt with it and finally tossed them at 37k and put on Brembo rotors and Hawk performance Pads from tirerack.com. Total cost was $208. I knew the Acura dealer wasnt going to replace them a second time (they told me so when they did it the first time) and frankly I didnt feel like dealing with their crap (like they were doing me some kind of favor replacing the rotors to begin with when its a known defect that plagues the TL just like the tranny) or haggling with Acura Customer Support and begging them to take care of something that I shouldnt have to beg about.
Why in the world I ever bought a TL i'll never know. I wont be buying another one. Crappy Crappy Crappy.
This tells you everything you needed to know about "warping" rotors.
My rotors crapped out at 12k miles (my tranny actually made it to 32k before that went). The rotors and pads were replaced for free (as was the tranny)
By 25k miles, the shaking started up again slowly. I dealt with it and finally tossed them at 37k and put on Brembo rotors and Hawk performance Pads from tirerack.com. Total cost was $208. I knew the Acura dealer wasnt going to replace them a second time (they told me so when they did it the first time) and frankly I didnt feel like dealing with their crap (like they were doing me some kind of favor replacing the rotors to begin with when its a known defect that plagues the TL just like the tranny) or haggling with Acura Customer Support and begging them to take care of something that I shouldnt have to beg about. Why in the world I ever bought a TL i'll never know. I wont be buying another one. Crappy Crappy Crappy.
07-13-2003, 08:39 AM
#99
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New to this forum and glad I found it. Went to dealer at 16K miles and they volunteered info that the rotors had gone bad (hadn't really noticed any problems). Course at 19K the problem seems to have returned. We'll see what they say when I take it in for service next week.
07-13-2003, 10:55 AM
#100
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No problems whatsoever, rotors are fine. I have a 97 Honda Accord with 130,000 miles on it, no rotor problems either!
Hope I got a good set. You all got some serious rotor drama. I have a question, do you all drive your cars very hard and brake extremely hard when rotors are wet? I heard that hard braking when rotors are wet can be big trouble.
Hope I got a good set. You all got some serious rotor drama. I have a question, do you all drive your cars very hard and brake extremely hard when rotors are wet? I heard that hard braking when rotors are wet can be big trouble.
07-13-2003, 01:27 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hokie D
[B]I would agree....less surface contact in many cases and some are prone to cracking under hard braking. Besides weight saving, the holes do allow better ventilation inside of the rotor.
Quote:
__________________________________________________ ___________
Could be. My Stang's OE rotors were much like the TL's rotors....they got warped early in life...appx. 35K miles. Then I purchased some cross-drilled rotors. They have been abused for 100K miles and have not given me any vibration in the brake pedal. I even wore my pads down until metal from the calipers was grinding grooves into the rotors..
__________________________________________________ ___________
Hokie D,
If you still remember the make/brand of that particular cross drilled
rotor you installed on your mustang, for me to consider next time
around.
Many thanks,
juniel
[B]I would agree....less surface contact in many cases and some are prone to cracking under hard braking. Besides weight saving, the holes do allow better ventilation inside of the rotor.
Quote:
__________________________________________________ ___________
Could be. My Stang's OE rotors were much like the TL's rotors....they got warped early in life...appx. 35K miles. Then I purchased some cross-drilled rotors. They have been abused for 100K miles and have not given me any vibration in the brake pedal. I even wore my pads down until metal from the calipers was grinding grooves into the rotors..
__________________________________________________ ___________
Hokie D,
If you still remember the make/brand of that particular cross drilled
rotor you installed on your mustang, for me to consider next time
around.
Many thanks,
juniel
07-15-2003, 07:55 PM
#102
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Originally posted by CJITTY
do you all drive your cars very hard and brake extremely hard when rotors are wet? I heard that hard braking when rotors are wet can be big trouble.
do you all drive your cars very hard and brake extremely hard when rotors are wet? I heard that hard braking when rotors are wet can be big trouble.
And, no, I never did that, and didn't do any super-hard braking, and mine warped. It's supposedly defective pads that cause the warping....
07-17-2003, 07:20 PM
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Honda/Acura seems to be a little weak when it comes to brakes and breaking. Look at some of the car comparisons in the different auto magazines. I think with the exception of the S2000, most Hondas rate less than average when compared with other models in the same class. Toyota/Lexus seems to do very well in the braking category.
Honda really is an engine/drivetrain building company, than happens to build automobiles on the side!
Honda really is an engine/drivetrain building company, than happens to build automobiles on the side!
07-18-2003, 10:03 AM
#104
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Rotor problems on 2003 TL Type S
I have a 2003 TL Type S that I purchased last year. I just took it to the dealer a week ago. The dealer replaced the rotors and the brake pads. Still trying to get the dealer to admit to a trans problem.
07-18-2003, 11:28 AM
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It appears that rotors on this car were designed to be a maintenance item like the tires. Fine except that the tires are lasting twice as long as rotors in my case (with rotation and balancing)
I have driven several Buicks and other full and midsize models that have never had any maintenance issues with the braking system other than typical pad replacement, etc.
Out of the thousands spent for designing and manufacturing of this 'upscale' vehicle a few extra bucks should have been set aside to provide the appropriate braking system for this ride.
Come on Honda-Acura, fix this mistake.
I have driven several Buicks and other full and midsize models that have never had any maintenance issues with the braking system other than typical pad replacement, etc.
Out of the thousands spent for designing and manufacturing of this 'upscale' vehicle a few extra bucks should have been set aside to provide the appropriate braking system for this ride.
Come on Honda-Acura, fix this mistake.
07-21-2003, 12:26 PM
#106
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If you still remember the make/brand of that particular cross drilled rotor you installed on your mustang
I'm curious who makes good quality rotors for the Acura. If anyone goes aftermarket, post your experiences with various brands.
07-22-2003, 06:29 PM
#107
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I turn my car in today for oil change and ask to check my rotor.
The service dept told me the front rotor is indeed warped and replace the break pad and resurface the rotor.
My acura is 2002 Type S with 33700 miles on it.
The service dept told me the front rotor is indeed warped and replace the break pad and resurface the rotor.
My acura is 2002 Type S with 33700 miles on it.
07-28-2003, 09:11 PM
#108
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Finally had the rotors turned at 37,500 miles. Dealership refused to do the job for free and had to call Acura Client Services for a "goodwill" service. It's pathetic that I had to go through all of this trouble in order to fix the problem.
07-29-2003, 10:01 PM
#110
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2002 TL-S, 2400 miles...rotors didn't feel smooth. Now at 4600 miles, I will call the service dept. This is my first bad Acura out of nine. Anyone know the best resource for cross drilled rotors? What about finding out how to get more padding in the front seats like the CL-S front seats.
07-31-2003, 01:39 PM
#113
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'99TL - rotors resurfaced somewhere after 30,000 (got the car with 28,000), at 69,000 and they need to be resurfaced again. Anyone know a good brand of aftermarket brake pads / rotors? will they be expensive to get installed?
07-31-2003, 08:37 PM
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i have a 03 tl type-s..
rotors resurfaced at around 13000..
now it's 19000.. and i feel it have to resurfaced again..
so pissed.. i just order the brembo turismo brake system..
but the ****ing stock wheel too small to fit in..
so i have to spend another 3000 dollar..
for volk racing te37 wheel 19x8 with 245/35/19 s-03 tire..
all these for a !@#$%ing rotor!!!
rotors resurfaced at around 13000..
now it's 19000.. and i feel it have to resurfaced again..
so pissed.. i just order the brembo turismo brake system..
but the ****ing stock wheel too small to fit in..
so i have to spend another 3000 dollar..
for volk racing te37 wheel 19x8 with 245/35/19 s-03 tire..
all these for a !@#$%ing rotor!!!
08-01-2003, 11:36 AM
#118
Cruisin'
Rotors
I'm new to the site. Is there a Rotor petition anywhere I can sign?? I'm on my third set of rotors. History follows
12K rotors turned
20K replaced
32K turned
46L replaced
60K turned
12K rotors turned
20K replaced
32K turned
46L replaced
60K turned
08-01-2003, 03:58 PM
#119
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 522
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I don't even bother going back to dealer. Just have them replaced yesterday @26000. Using aftermarket rotor with Wagner ThermoQuiet which has ceramic material instead of semi-metallic. Hope it helps since it shouldn't be as abrasive.
08-02-2003, 12:02 PM
#120
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: East Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 102
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Resurfaced rotors at 7K as "good will" at the dealership. Warped again at 30K with more then 50% of pads left, dealer charging $400 to resurface and change pads. Told them to F*** themselfs and did it at a local gas station. Now at 36K they r warped again.