rotor and pad DIY

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Old May 2, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #1  
joseph_99tl's Avatar
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From: NJ
rotor and pad DIY

can someone point me to a rotor and pad replacement DIY for our TL's.

i get tons of hits searching.

thx.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #2  
TL_Fo_Life's Avatar
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From: Pacoima, ca
here you go. http://home.comcast.net/~beinstein/Brake_Guide.pdf right click and save as.
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Old May 3, 2006 | 07:10 AM
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excellent.
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Old May 3, 2006 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TL_Fo_Life
here you go. http://home.comcast.net/~beinstein/Brake_Guide.pdf right click and save as.

Just curious, why do you not recommend drilled rotors?
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Old May 3, 2006 | 09:14 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by bmui1561
Just curious, why do you not recommend drilled rotors?
because cheap ones will crack. If you get good ones they are less likely to do so. I have over 70k on mine and they arent cracked
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Old May 25, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
because cheap ones will crack. If you get good ones they are less likely to do so. I have over 70k on mine and they arent cracked
Just wondering, which ones are "good" ones?
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Old May 25, 2006 | 03:21 PM
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rotora/irotors are supposed to be the best 2 for our cars.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 03:37 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by vtlec01
rotora/irotors are supposed to be the best 2 for our cars.
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Old May 27, 2006 | 04:16 AM
  #9  
FreeIsGood's Avatar
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i install rotora slotted and satisfied ceramic pads and never been happier to rid of stock crap. i also bedded the pads in after 300ish miles on the new stuff. no more warp brakes. also significantly less brake dust. no lie
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Old May 27, 2006 | 04:23 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by FreeIsGood
i install rotora slotted and satisfied ceramic pads and never been happier to rid of stock crap. i also bedded the pads in after 300ish miles on the new stuff. no more warp brakes. also significantly less brake dust. no lie
what does "bedding" the pads mean?
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Old May 27, 2006 | 02:08 PM
  #11  
Tappy116's Avatar
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From: MA
Originally Posted by gatdammit
what does "bedding" the pads mean?
i dont know either...some one fill us in! please!
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Old May 27, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #12  
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It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.

I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.
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Old May 27, 2006 | 06:42 PM
  #13  
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i try replacing my rotors, but i was not able to get the 2 rusted so bad screws out from the center part of the rotor....i did try WD-40....nope....now since i kinda forced so much, the screw itself is damaged which it slips once i try turning it! any recommandations on how to resolve this?
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:45 AM
  #14  
FreeIsGood's Avatar
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From: san jose, ca
Originally Posted by SwampGas
It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.

I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.

here's the first google search regarding bedding breaks.. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:48 AM
  #15  
FreeIsGood's Avatar
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From: san jose, ca
Originally Posted by wmah523
i try replacing my rotors, but i was not able to get the 2 rusted so bad screws out from the center part of the rotor....i did try WD-40....nope....now since i kinda forced so much, the screw itself is damaged which it slips once i try turning it! any recommandations on how to resolve this?

try an impact wrench . be very careful of the direction the wrench is set before apply a hammer to it, else it'll cause warping.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:52 AM
  #16  
FreeIsGood's Avatar
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From: san jose, ca
Originally Posted by SwampGas
It means doing a few stops from like 60mph to 45mph to warm things up, then several hard brakes from 60mph to 10mph, let things cool down for 5-10 mins and then let it sit. Mates the surface of the pad to the rotor better, deposits some of the pad on the rotor surface, and burns off the manufacturing material from the pad.

I did mine incorrectly with rotora slotted and pro satisfied ceramics and now I have hideous vibration after about 20k miles...the steering wheel moves 2-3 inches side to side. It's awful. Always bed it in properly.

maybe it's a wheel balance issue. I encountered some vibration/wooble on the highways some time after the roter/brake change and eventually had my wheels balance, then it went away. maybe two different issues. just a thought
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Old May 28, 2006 | 09:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by FreeIsGood
maybe it's a wheel balance issue. I encountered some vibration/wooble on the highways some time after the roter/brake change and eventually had my wheels balance, then it went away. maybe two different issues. just a thought
If it was wheel balance, wouldn't it vibrate all the time and not just under braking?
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:39 PM
  #18  
FreeIsGood's Avatar
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From: san jose, ca
Originally Posted by SwampGas
If it was wheel balance, wouldn't it vibrate all the time and not just under braking?
oh. sounds like the rotors are warped. you need to resurface the rotors and take it easy for the first 300 miles then bed them in.
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