bl3ujay07

First off, please dont give me any bs about how i should have bought oem. Everything in the car is OEM except the new mount i just bought because i have been doing some reading on it. So, if you are going to post about how i should have bought OEM mounts, dont post at all.

Well, i have been reading the DIY thread on changing out the motor mount and have decided to order from rock auto and not get oem ones. Why, because fsttyms1 posted how his new oem ones only lasted 15-20k miles. Before i orded mines, i was affraid that it would not be a vacuum assisted mount. Low and behold, it does not, or at least it doesnt seem like it. I have also read about innovative's motor mount, and do not want anything solid, or close to it as i have had solids on both my older accord and my 240sx.

Who here has experienced with such a mount (front to be exact) that is not vac assisted (of course i would plug up the vac line for the mount)? Does it affect the idle, and how much rougher is it compared to the OEM, or those with the vac assistance?

Again, really appreciate it if you not post anything if you do not have knowledge/experience on it. Less cluster phobic.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

You do know only the front mount is vac assisted. Is there a small metal tube coming out of the bottom of the front mount?

bl3ujay07

i thought rears ones too, or at least from what i have been reading it seems like it. Maybe i read it wrong then.

But to answer your question, no it does not have a small metal tube coming out from the bottom.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

if the mount is nor vac assist and neither solid, its going to in less than 20 miles....forget 20K miles....

think about it....solid mount last since its solid....brings in vibrations at idle since it doesnt have a vac line.....

oem mount lasts since it has a vac line which modifies the STIFFNESS (kinda related to solidness).....so when ur at idle, it makes it soft hence sucking in all the vibration and when you hit the gas it stiffens it.....hence doesnt let it rip.....

my.daily'tl'

I agree with the other members. Stiffer mounts won't give uou that TL ride back. Front and rear are vac assist on my 99.
Don't know how the vacuum is affected and if you do use the mount plug up the line.

Can you return it? How much did you save?

bl3ujay07

But you have to see that its not oil filled like the oem so it doesnt really have to run on the vac source, right? The oil filled depends on the vac source for your explanation above. Hence, with the RockAuto mount i got, im assuming it will have a slightly rougher idle, since it cant/wont try to stiffen/soften the mount??

If it should rip within 20 miles, which i highly doubt it would, ill just toss it and get an oem one then. I guess you can say this is a trial and error thing.

My main concern is the vac source. As long is i plug it up, it should befine right? no weir idling or anything right?

bl3ujay07

Thats a reason why i dont want solid. I probably saved $50. It was about $100 for both front and side.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yeah i get your point.....give it a shot.... GOOD LUCK !!!

01tl4tl

just plug the vac line so there is no leak and dont sweat it
Everything is computer controlled- not old carbs to adjust

different years are different cars- not all gen2 have vac assisted mounts,
some appear to have front and rear based on matching prices and now this info saying only front

Gen3 has opposite function with its special motor mounts, and softens to absorb vibration at idle~
while ours stiffen on throttle application,,possible explanation was to avoid a torque bar but it didnt work

fsttyms1

I personally wouldnt use them but if you insist on using them make sure to plug the vac line.

And part of the reason mine dont last is im 6 speed now and making much more power and race it which is hard on the mounts.

bl3ujay07

^^^I dont race or do anything exciting with my tl as i had a different car for that purpose. I hardley ever let the car exceed 4k rpm mark. Its just that it could possibly mess other thing up further if i dont get it changed.

Also, if you wouldnt insist on them or the oem, which one would you insist to use, innovative solids? In my opinion, it would compromise the "luxury" part of the tl. If i wanted a m/t, fast race car, the tl would not be even close to the top of my list. Had a 315 whp with 285 tq 240sx, been there and done that.

01tl4tl

fsttyms uses OE mounts,,
now that there is an engine torque bar available,, maybe he will stop breaking mounts

When he says race- he means his TL sees the real race track and does afternoons of full throttle- top speed- full braking efforts- at Road America at `track days`,,
serious abuse of the motor mounts~ and brake pads!

for now- run the cheap one you bought and see how it goes- let us know!
its better than a broken mount- which shifts all its load to the pass side when front mount breaks--leading to its failure too

thelastaspec

Would a torque damper ease the strain on the mounts?

There's the group buy for it right now...
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/excelerate-performance-ingalls-engine-torque-damper-groupbuy-785413/

01tl4tl

the point of the new torque bar Excelerate has a thread on- is to remove engine motion and preserve the motor mounts!!--for about the price of 1 front mount

fsttyms1

For normal drivers i would recommend the OEM mounts. I would also recommend them for those that like to drive spirited, BUT i would now recommend the new Ingalls torque damper in the group buy, it will most undoubtedly save the mounts and make them last longer (normal driving or not)

bl3ujay07

Ok, so i just got the side today, along with the front from yesterday. It does not have a vac source for it. My front OEM mounts completely shit itself. The whole thing looked perfect from the top or side before it was taken out, but the whole top part of the mount, was torn all the way around.

Changed sides, was beck&arnly (or whatever it is) while to front brand was Anchor. Plugged up the vac source and started it up. I noticed there is a small, very light vibration while holding the steering wheel at idle. Its nothing crazy like the motor mount inserts i bought for my old accord, and nothing close to being solid. Its not anything that would bother me.

Quality wise, front looked pretty much oem except the vac source on the bottom and a sticker saying "made in Thailand". The welds of the side was not as good as oem, but other than that, no difference.

If they last, which by the looks of it they will, i would definitely rock it again. I will keep updates on this thread every couple thousand miles or so to inform all how the mounts are just in case anyone in the future might have questions about it.

bl3ujay07

Torque dampers arent suppose to add additional vibration to the cabin right? They are suppose to be like shocks that absorbs movement right? Or is it just like a metal bar that is suppose to keep the engine from moving around, but at the same time, transfer all the vibrations back to the cabin?

Fyi, i do know what the torque dampers look like.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

The torque damper is just that, a damper.

It doesn't eliminate movement, just reduces it.

I doubt you will get any harsh vibrations in the cabin. At least, with OEM mounts.

01tl4tl

see Excelerates thread on the new Ingalls damper- with pics and arrows telling what each part is and how it works

gold2003tl (90)

i just ordered a Duralast front motor mount #14519 from autozone online, hydraulic vac $150ish, life time warrenty so bring it back if it fails, along with the group buy on Ingalls Tq damper. hopefully ill be set for a while since iv just replaced my rear mount, along with the tq damper from Ingalls.

pretty excited about this Tq damper, it could mean the end of our neverending battle against oem motor mounts. good luck to you all.