Okay, we all have seen what rims the members like. What about the sh--ty ones?

In my search for new ones I realized that there are a million different companies out there that make rims.

So,if anybody has insight on which rims are cheap and should be avoided, I'd appreciate it. Is there something to look for which will signify it is crap or not?

Is ADR one of them?

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1999 Firepepper Red TL

• Under Body Kit
• Rear Wing Spoiler
• 26 Piece Wood Grain Console
• BurlWood Shift Knob
• 30% Smoke Tint

Pics of My TL

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by adamyankee on March 01, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

ADR is one of them. Konig is also, american racing, tenzo R, focal, ace... I could go on forever.

 

You'd actually be surprised.

People respect the name BBS, but they make some very brittle rims.

Mugen, yes our beloved Mugen Honda, makes some brittle rims as well.

See for yourself.
http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.html



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Kenny
TL

 

HRE's ... Hurts in the pocket books, stay away...

"No Pain No Gain"


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00' Acura 3.2TL Nighthawk Black Pearl
- 18's Lowenharts LGM Chrome (3 piece)
- 225/40 NT555
- Factory Kit
- Factory Spoiler
- ordered Apexi N1 WS coilovers =D 1 more week!

 

This link mentions that the NSX rims are "Cast"...which is erroneous. The NSX rims are "Forged" alloys.



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2000 Naples Gold 3.2TL/Navi - Factory Stock but with up-graded tires

 

Racing Hart C2s. They suck!!!!

Naw, I really just don't want anyone else to have them.



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1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

Mugen Grill on order

 

too bad, they're so played out already, everytime i go to a rice parking lot i see them (or an immitation).

 

It was a little vague, not erroneous.

These are Cast:




These are Forged:





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Kenny
TL

 

Hey NSX.....hope you are just kidding...I'm getting new rims and tires. it's a toss up between the C2's and 5Zigen Heidfelds

 

Man they rock. Tim/Snook has them as well. Check out my pics. I love the look. I think they go real well with the subdued styling of the TL. Didn't want anything too flashy.

I didn't much care for the black rivets on the Heidfelds. They do look really nice on a Black TL. Jedi has pics in the gallery.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/kleinnj?d...l=fld3&.src=ph


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1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

Mugen Grill on order

 

Thanks for the heads-up !!! I did not know that NSX's of the generations before 1994, employed "Cast" alloys.



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2000 Naples Gold 3.2TL/Navi - Factory Stock but with up-graded tires

 

WTF? You think American Racing is sh#tty? They set a atandard for wheels, you know, they've been around for a long time...next thing You tell me, Boyd's custom wheels are cheap crap too... Let me tell you something..My friend has RH C5's on his ride, and in 6 months he f#$ked his rims up 2x so bad that he had to send them out to fix...how they got hit? From a bump!
Ed

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Acura-TL.com - Forum Moderator

'99 TL Satin Silver/Ebony, Non/Nav, Comptech lowered, Comptech Air Filter Element, Inspire Tails, AEM Brake Pads all around, Comptech Axle Back Exhaust, "Guy Smiley" doll on the dash as my Co-driver...

Pics of my TL
Pics of my Miata! Wadya think?

 

That was Ed'z two cent's and all y'all shall repent --Shyne

 

What do you guys think about Zenetti wheels? I was thinking about getting some Zenetti Crow Chrome 18" +45 with some 225/40/18.

Tim: Do you have access to these rims?

And what's the deal with this fender rolling? Safe? And for you Seattle people, where'd you get it done and did they do a good job?

Any Seattleites up for a post-earthquake meet? Maybe under the Alaskan Way Viaduct? Hopefully I'll have my new rims by then.


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**
2000 Acura 3.2 TL Black
Hopefully rims someday, springs too, inspire tails would be nice, dream list goes on.........

 

Down for a meet in a few weeks!

 

How come I see American racing rims on all the civics and mustang/camaro v6s, cavaliers, echos, and other junk? Did you know they sell american racing rims at costco? I saw some hillbilly staring at them like they were the best rims in the world when i went there. I guess greatness doesn't last forever.

 

What about Konig or Katana's?

RH Evolution Series? Don't exactly have $3000 burning a hole in my pocket.

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1999 Firepepper Red
Under Body Kit/Rear Wing Spoiler/26 Piece Wood Grain Console/BurlWood Shift Knob/
30% Smoke Tint/Comptech Sways & Springs (not installed yet)

More Pics

 

I agree totally.



I suppose you're referring to me, I knew someone would take what I said the wrong way. Check out that website I posted. I meant to say that BBS makes RK's which are very brittle. I didn't mean to imply that all BBS rims suck. Obviously since yes, they are on a ton of race cars out there. I made comments like that Mugen M7's are extremely brittle as well, but hell my favorite wheel in the whole world is the Mugen MF10! And I would get it in a heartbeat if I had the money.

Also while yes they are race wheels BBS that is, not everything race trickles down to street. Honda Mp4/6's or whatever they're called will win over other marques, McLaren's Mercedes' but that doesn't make a civic faster than any GT1, or CLK-GTR...

Point is taken though that yes, brands like BBS are reputable because of race heritage, its just that certain products need careful scrutinization before purchasing.

As I said, that List I posted is a very good resource.

Read it! Use it!

http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.html

------------------
Kenny
TL

 

I could second wiht that b/c i still got issues trying to fix my BBS RK2



------------------
aACURA
99 TL,SATIN SILVER EXT.,EBONY INT.,UNDERBODY KIT, HEADLIGHT FINISHERS, INSPIRE TAILS, PIAA 1700X FOGS,17IN BBS RK, GUTTER GUARD GRILL, HEADLIGHTS CLEARED,COMPTECH EXHAUST, COMPTECH SPRINGS, AUDIO ALL DRESSED UP, VIDEO UNDER THE SCREWDRIVER ;D
A.K.A ThE bRoNxBoY

 

Shyne.....lol, you are killing me!

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2000 Fire Pepper Red/ebony TL, non-navi. factory spoiler, std chrome wheels, 35% tint, comptech exhaust, wood trim kit...
Quiets ride

 

F=ma,
nothing personal, I just used your quote as an example, I should have said "xyz" mfg, instead. I know we are saying the same thing just in a round-about way.
BTW, I see you registered as a student. Is this still the case, b/c your username is a common equation used in statics? I'm a old sparky if it matters.

 

In most cases you cannot disregard an entire wheel mfg based upon hearse from somebody who knows somebody who's wheel bent or cracked or what type of person is looking at them. True, there are some wheel mfg's to stay away from entirely, but there are a few things to consider first.
The type of wheel design/pattern has the greatest determination of wheel strength. A thin spoke design w/o much metal is going to be weak wheel. For instance, someone erroneously mentioned BBS - their wheels are used by most racing teams from F1 to autocross (for a reason!) but look at the wheel design the race teams are using. For example, the BBS RK design is a very thin spoked design w/o alot of metal around the hub, so I would stay away from this wheel, but the racing teams are not using this type of design, they are using a webbed/criss-crossed design - more metal and lots of solid spokes. Think about it!
Also the mfg's tolerances are crucial to a wheels strength. Wheels with thin wall (in the rim, spoke, and hub area) castings/forgings are the ones to avoid also. Usually the cheaper wheels have less strength due to thin walls and less metal to hold the prices down. Most mfg's will have a few wheel types that are for more show than strength, but most others will be ok. The best thing to do is call around to some local wheel resellers or call a few places that fix wheels and ask them their opinions - they're the ones working with wheels and would have alot more knowledge of which mfg's and/or designs to avoid based upon facts not rumours.
IMHO

 

I've got BBS RV's on my Miata, 16x7 w/ 225/40/16 Dunlops... They went thru so many bumps and potholes and nary a scratch or dent. One pothole I slammed into so hard, it threw my headlight alignment out on one of the lights..one was ok, and the side that hit the pothole was shining up to the sky, don't know how that happened..
Ed

 

Uh.. statistics? I think it's pretty safe to say that his username refers to a *physics* formula. Force=mass*acceleration.

 

holy crap. its a small world after all! that is a pic of my car you posted. i purchased the car from Jackie Cooper (which is the dealership the car is pictured at). it's a '91 NSX with k40 radar system. it had around 50,000 miles when i bought it.
btw, the picture of the newer NSX that you posted. those rims on there are made by Enkei, they are the exact same rims as the ITR, except a bigger version.


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'01 Lexus IS300
'91 Acura NSX
'95 Nissan Maxima

 

Uh... no. statics - usually the course after physics, but, yes it's used in physics too. Also used in dynamics, E/M, thermo, etc, etc, etc. to name a few others. I just randomly picked one.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Brewboy on March 04, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

i don't know how racing hart became as famous as it is...i had c2 3-piece wheels and they bent the week i put them on...and this was going over small bumps and irregularities on the road. i had to fix the lip again every other week...so i ended up selling them after two months. the place that fixed the lip says that they have a soft lip and bend easily..they fix racing harts too frequently and for the price..it's crap wheels.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by v6pwr on March 05, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

I do agree somewhat, however a large factor that goes into wheel longevity is the amount of "meat" that is riding under them. I'm sure 20" C2s on a TL would be quite fragile, being that they would probably ride on rubber bands. On a BMW, Lex, maybe even Mercedes, you will probably be able to get a lot more tire under them.

"The more cushion the easier the pushin' even relates to wheels and tires....

------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

Mugen Grill on order

 

well, i had 215/45-17's on 17x7 c2's...so i think that my tire size isn't at fault..also the wheel shop that fixed my wheels said racing harts aren't strongly designed (the lip i'm assuming??)and he repairs racing harts quite frequently. also, another friend of mine also complained about easily bending his racing hart's compared to his older rims..so i think it's the brand in general and not just mine. this aside, and agreeing with what nsx said.. wheel size and offset, and tire width will greatly influence how the wheel will hold up to road conditions. the larger the diameter of a wheel, and also the more lip there is on a wheel, the more it's tendency to be damaged/bent..and rubber band tires will make it more so. i'm waiting on the shipment of my blitz techno's 18x8 to see how it's quality stand...

 

how much did you get your technospeed for, if you dont mind me asking. what shop? i have a set of 19" for sale.


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'01 Lexus IS300
'91 Acura NSX
'95 Nissan Maxima

 

Damn Brewboy, now you are talkin' my language. Screw a TL forum -- let's make this da engineering forum.

 

thought that
Force=Mass*Acceleration squared

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1998 3.2TL
Tinted Dark!!
HID headlights
Boston Pro 6.4's all the way around
Weapon-R intake on order

 

oops

Force=Mass*Velocity Squared

------------------
1998 3.2TL
Tinted Dark!!
HID headlights
Boston Pro 6.4's all the way around
Weapon-R intake on order

 

MOMO all the way...I love the momo arrow, even though its an old design, it still look great. Hoping to save up enough $$ to get a set. MoMo sport is also cool, but I'll rather have the arrows.

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99' Taffeta white TL
"It Aint Real Bass unless It hurts just to sit in the Car"
Fosgate Power 800a2
Two 10" Hx2
E750s Lanzar Preamp

 

Errr, not quite,

P=mv, Momentum equals mass times velocity.

Take the derivative of that and assume that mass does not change (not applicable for a rocket) and you get F=ma.

Perhaps you're thinking of Kinetic Energy, K=1/2mv²