Replacing a Rear Rebar on a 2003 Acura 3.2 TL
#1
Replacing a Rear Rebar on a 2003 Acura 3.2 TL
Hi:
I need to replace the rear rebar in my 2003 Acura 3.2 TL. The reason being that when I had gone to a local mechanic to get my 'Y' pipe fixed (a few weeks back) etc. he did an overall inspection and mentioned that the rear rebar had rusted and probably had a crack in it too which may increase in the event I had another rear end fender-bender.
So I went ahead and searched for a rebar and got one. The question now is whether I can fix it myself or should i go to a mechanic shop to do the same. I checked the DIYs on this site and didn't find any specific DIY on replacing a rear rebar and hence this new thread.
Thanks in advance for any pointers.
Cheers,
-S
I need to replace the rear rebar in my 2003 Acura 3.2 TL. The reason being that when I had gone to a local mechanic to get my 'Y' pipe fixed (a few weeks back) etc. he did an overall inspection and mentioned that the rear rebar had rusted and probably had a crack in it too which may increase in the event I had another rear end fender-bender.
So I went ahead and searched for a rebar and got one. The question now is whether I can fix it myself or should i go to a mechanic shop to do the same. I checked the DIYs on this site and didn't find any specific DIY on replacing a rear rebar and hence this new thread.
Thanks in advance for any pointers.
Cheers,
-S
#4
Hi Justinspace:
I tried that last week and my experience was not that straightforward or pleasant.
4 out of the ~6 plastic retainer clips that hold the bumper to the body of the car broke (so I have to put in new clips there - which is not an issue) - however removing 4 bolts was a challenge.
I was able to remove it at last, however 3 of the 4 bolts broke at different points of their removal. They were a bit rusted though . Thankfully I was able to remove the old re-bar that was totally rusted and replace it with a new OEM one. However now I am looking for new bolts (all four of them) and the bunch of retainer clips - my local acura dealer doesn't have them in stock - and I hear neither does any of other acura dealers in the local area.
Additionally the new re-bar is built in such a way that it was not exactly fitting against the bolts so I had to do a combination of light hammering etc. to ensure that it did. That was the painful part.
So once I get these parts i will most probably complete this. probably by end of next week!! hopefully.
Cheers,
-S
I tried that last week and my experience was not that straightforward or pleasant.
4 out of the ~6 plastic retainer clips that hold the bumper to the body of the car broke (so I have to put in new clips there - which is not an issue) - however removing 4 bolts was a challenge.
I was able to remove it at last, however 3 of the 4 bolts broke at different points of their removal. They were a bit rusted though . Thankfully I was able to remove the old re-bar that was totally rusted and replace it with a new OEM one. However now I am looking for new bolts (all four of them) and the bunch of retainer clips - my local acura dealer doesn't have them in stock - and I hear neither does any of other acura dealers in the local area.
Additionally the new re-bar is built in such a way that it was not exactly fitting against the bolts so I had to do a combination of light hammering etc. to ensure that it did. That was the painful part.
So once I get these parts i will most probably complete this. probably by end of next week!! hopefully.
Cheers,
-S
#5
Yeah, nothing is ever easy or simple when dealing with older rusted components.
It's amazing how well the plastic bumper cover hides the vital hidden parts.
Imagine how many other 10+ year old cars on the road have the potential for a similar issue when driven in the rust belt areas. So, everybody beware.....check your rear !!!
It's amazing how well the plastic bumper cover hides the vital hidden parts.
Imagine how many other 10+ year old cars on the road have the potential for a similar issue when driven in the rust belt areas. So, everybody beware.....check your rear !!!
#7
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#9
Ok here is the update, since I posted last
I was able to successfully remove all the screws and also tried to fix the new rebar that I had purchased for 80 $ CAD @ a nearby JDM parts warehouse.
Once the OLD rear rebar is removed from the Acura 3.2 TL - one can see two nail like protrusions from the body of the car, with rungs on it onto which the NEW rebar goes in.
However I noticed that the new rebar's curvature was not aligning properly with the holes on its side. In other words if one side of the rebar went in well to enable one to put in the nut onto to that screw, then it was not possible from the other side. This resulted in me not being able fully fix the rebar without having to spoil the rungs on the rear body screws of acura.
At this point the only solution that seems to be ok is to in someway press the new rear rebar such that it curvature 'decreases' and that may provide me with some play by which I can ensure that main screws from the body of the car and the holes on the NEW rear rebar are properly aligned so that I can put in the nuts without any more application of pressure.
Any ideas from the members of this community is appreciated.
Cheers,
-S
I was able to successfully remove all the screws and also tried to fix the new rebar that I had purchased for 80 $ CAD @ a nearby JDM parts warehouse.
Once the OLD rear rebar is removed from the Acura 3.2 TL - one can see two nail like protrusions from the body of the car, with rungs on it onto which the NEW rebar goes in.
However I noticed that the new rebar's curvature was not aligning properly with the holes on its side. In other words if one side of the rebar went in well to enable one to put in the nut onto to that screw, then it was not possible from the other side. This resulted in me not being able fully fix the rebar without having to spoil the rungs on the rear body screws of acura.
At this point the only solution that seems to be ok is to in someway press the new rear rebar such that it curvature 'decreases' and that may provide me with some play by which I can ensure that main screws from the body of the car and the holes on the NEW rear rebar are properly aligned so that I can put in the nuts without any more application of pressure.
Any ideas from the members of this community is appreciated.
Cheers,
-S
#11
I would just bend it to reduce the curve to make it fit into place. Once bolted in it should conform to shape. If that doesnt work try making a hole or 2 bigger to allow it to fit over the bolts
#12
Also if there is any surface rust on the new piece or anything you see with the bumper off, get yourself a quart of Chassis Saver and brush it on over the rusted areas. It will stop the rust and protect it from rusting further.
#13
Thank you for your replies fsttyms1.
>>>I would just bend it to reduce the curve to make it fit into place
How? without using any major thingamajig that can only be found in say a workshop?
I was thinking of placing this metal rear rebar on the ground (on my driveway) in such a way that it arches up and then after the necessary supports have been provided to ensure that it doesn't slip, back my car on top of it slowly so that the weight of the car actually slowly reduces the curvature of that rebar.
Haven't tried it as yet, but not sure if this harebrained idea would work :-). or I have to probably take it to a mechanic shop and get its curvature reduced using some fancy thingamajig out there.
-S
>>>I would just bend it to reduce the curve to make it fit into place
How? without using any major thingamajig that can only be found in say a workshop?
I was thinking of placing this metal rear rebar on the ground (on my driveway) in such a way that it arches up and then after the necessary supports have been provided to ensure that it doesn't slip, back my car on top of it slowly so that the weight of the car actually slowly reduces the curvature of that rebar.
Haven't tried it as yet, but not sure if this harebrained idea would work :-). or I have to probably take it to a mechanic shop and get its curvature reduced using some fancy thingamajig out there.
-S
#16
Rebar alignment.....mounting screws
I was able to successfully remove all the screws and also tried to fix the new rebar.
Once the OLD rear rebar is removed - one can see two nail like protrusions from the body of the car, with rungs on it onto which the NEW rebar goes in.
However I noticed that the new rebar's curvature was not aligning properly with the holes on its side.
In other words if one side of the rebar went in well to enable one to put in the nut onto to that screw, then it was not possible from the other side. This resulted in me not being able fully fix the rebar without having to spoil the rungs on the rear body screws of acura.
and that may provide me with some play by which I can ensure that main screws from the body of the car and the holes on the NEW rear rebar are properly aligned so that I can put in the nuts without any more application of pressure.
Once the OLD rear rebar is removed - one can see two nail like protrusions from the body of the car, with rungs on it onto which the NEW rebar goes in.
However I noticed that the new rebar's curvature was not aligning properly with the holes on its side.
In other words if one side of the rebar went in well to enable one to put in the nut onto to that screw, then it was not possible from the other side. This resulted in me not being able fully fix the rebar without having to spoil the rungs on the rear body screws of acura.
and that may provide me with some play by which I can ensure that main screws from the body of the car and the holes on the NEW rear rebar are properly aligned so that I can put in the nuts without any more application of pressure.
Just enlarge the rebar's mounting holes by slotting them to accommodate the body's screws, then use some washers under the securing nuts for the rebar.
#17
Yes that is what had to be done finally.
I took to my local mechanic and he looked at the mounting screw bolts that were protruding out from the body of the car and noticed that one of the bolts was not even ok. He decided to remove it and replace it with a new bolt. But to do that he had to use the oxy-acetylene burner to literally remove the left side bolt - since it was not possible to simply hammer it out.
After doing that to two of the bolts - new bolts were fixed to the body of the car, and then the holes on the rear rebar had to be enlarged - using a power file - and then that did the trick. He charged me $50 for it. I doubt if I could have been able to really take the old bolts out and put a new one in.
Now the rear rebar is nicely mounted.
All that remains to be done is to put on the dampers on the outer side of the rebar - then put the bumper over it. Plan to do that this weekend.
Cheers,
-S
I took to my local mechanic and he looked at the mounting screw bolts that were protruding out from the body of the car and noticed that one of the bolts was not even ok. He decided to remove it and replace it with a new bolt. But to do that he had to use the oxy-acetylene burner to literally remove the left side bolt - since it was not possible to simply hammer it out.
After doing that to two of the bolts - new bolts were fixed to the body of the car, and then the holes on the rear rebar had to be enlarged - using a power file - and then that did the trick. He charged me $50 for it. I doubt if I could have been able to really take the old bolts out and put a new one in.
Now the rear rebar is nicely mounted.
All that remains to be done is to put on the dampers on the outer side of the rebar - then put the bumper over it. Plan to do that this weekend.
Cheers,
-S
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