sixspdbrd

Took my car in at 8500 miiles because the brakes were doing the shaking thing. They replaced pads and resurfaced rotors under warranty. As soon as I pulled out of the lot I could tell they werent fixed. (a simple road test after service would have done this...saving me a trip back) Couldnt leave it so I brought it back the next week and they said the rotors (both front) were warped and cracked!! Anyways replaced under warranty. No big deal but are our brakes that ****ty? I had a Trans Am w/ 6 speed and an I30 that I put 80,000 miles on and never had anything like this happen. I dont think I have ever had to replace rotors and I drove the hell out of the Trans Am. Just some info for everyone.

2K2SilverTL-S

I got the same thing done under warranty at 5,000 miles. I have 12,000 miles now, so far so good.

RX-72ATL-S

I haven't had a problem with my Acura yet BUT, the worst breaks out there (in my opinion) are the one's on my Suburban. I have 24,000 miles. I've had the pads changed 3 times and the rotors turn 4 times, and they need it again. I took it in three times with in the first month of owning it to complain about squeeking and pulling. They messed with it a few times then told me they weren't going to warranty it anymore, because they are functioning as designed. They blamed the squeeking from semi metalic break pads, and metal on metal will squeek, and warp after a period of time. I argued and argued with upper management to the point that I told them to buy it back. Unfortunately I got tired of the hassle and gave up. In my case it's because of underpowered breaks, at least other mechanics have told me this. The heavy duty 3/4 ton doesn't have the problem. Anyway, this isn't a Suburban board so I'll quit ranting. Anyway, has anyone upgraded rotors yet? If so what did they go with?

bricot

Have you had to do any hard braking? If that is after normal driving and you haven't had to do any hard braking and then sit in once place with your brakes on, (a reason for warping), then that is pretty sad!

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

One of the biggest reasons for rotor warpage is from not setting the proper torque on the lug nuts. That and not tightening the lugs in a star pattern. Huge problems from that.

The dealers use a freakin impact wrench to do it. They need to get off their lazy a$$es and use a proper torque wrench.

systek

i was about to say that but u beat me to it....i had my tires rotated once and got the shakes afterward...retorqued the lugs myself, problem solved...!

Road Rage

Cracks are nearly always the result of thermal abuse by the owner, such as spraying cold water on a hot rotor - the sudden cooling of the super-heated iron caused it tpo fractue. This can also happen at a car wash.

I agree about carefully torqueing the wheels - I carry a torque wrench in the trunk just in case I have to change a tire or dealer decides to rotate my wheels as a favor.

bricot

Hey RR,
What is the 'official' torque supposed to be? I think the tire shop told me 88ft/lbs?

pianoman41

The manual says 80 ft/lbs, but anything from 70-90 would be in the acceptable range. The important thing is to make sure they're all at the same torque spec, no matter which number you settle on. And make sure you tighten them in a criss-cross "star" pattern instead of just going around the hub in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Also, ideally the car should be jacked up slightly, with just enough weight on the tire being worked on to keep it from spinning as you apply torque. Repeat for all four tires.

systek

wow, you know what ur talking about...a refreshing change...great info too...!

ChucksCL-S

The lug nut torque must be right ( I use 75ft.lbs) and tighten using a star pattern. Go buy a torque wrench at an auto parts store - they're simple to use. If you ever end up doing strut or sway bar work (etc) you can use it then too. Also buy a deep 19mm socket to use on your lug nuts. As other members said do not hit hot rotors with cold water, and after a strong stop shift to neutral and lift your foot off the brakes so that the part of the rotor under the pads doesn't cook and then warp from all the heat. As rotors are used they eventually get thinner and will warp anyway and will need replacing. Hope this helps.

systek

wellsaid.

the only thing i hate is going to get anything done to ur car by "mechanics" and they have to take off the tires. cause they always seem to just put them back on in a circular fashion using impact wrench set to high...!!!

another thing that is bad about this: if torqued high enough, the first lugnut installed will break off when taken off the next time...my cousin owns his own tire shop and has run into this alot

Geezer

Seems like a lot of disk warpage problems. My TL-S with 19,000 miles of mostly highway driving, and no abuse, is starting to give me feedback thru the pedal. Guess it's time to take it in for a look. Whereas my Civic SI, with about the same miles plus 2 seasons of autox and several high speed track days, has no brake rotor problems at all. Weird.

VolkRacing

Yeah..my prelude never gave me any warping problems.....but at 13,000 miles I took my TLS in to have my front rotors resurfaced and new brake pads installed....

bricot

Yep I always do the star pattern, I also do the 10 mile, 50 mile, 150 mile re-torque any time that the wheels are removed.

coffeefingers

Dude,

How many pistons does each brake unit have on the TL-S?

Anyone? Anyone?

Austin519

systek:

Yeah pianoman41 knows his stuff...what can I say but that he absolutely LOVES torquing nuts...heard he's been doing it for years

Austin519