I heard you are suppose to replace brake fluid every 24 months.
This is with a machine that allows for entire bleed of Dot 3 Honda brand fluid.

What about just changing the portion in the brake master cylinder only.
Is that acceptable.
I hear some people perform that only.


Thanks.

 

I would replace the fluid from the entire system. Reason being is because the whole reason for changing it would be to remove contaminants and moisture that can lead to damage. So if you only change enough fluid for the reservoir, the contaminants or moisture can still be in the lines. But like everything else, the decision is up to you.

 

changing out the master cyl brake fluid only-
does nothing but fool the customer into believing you actually did the work!!

System does not circulate fluid like the others, it barely moves forward then back as brakes are applied and released..so it doesnt get `dried out` like ps or engine oil does
from hot circulation of fluid

you MUST remove the fluid in master cyl, slowly/gently refill with new so new sits on top of old fluid,
then use the 2 man method of pump and hold pedal, or buy a small suction brake bleeder to DIY by self till you get all new fluid coming out of each caliper, then some more..
Takes about 1.5 qts of DOT4 fluid to do the entire system really well, thats 2-3 times refilling the master as you flush/bleed old fluid out== PER caliper

DOT4 supercedes dot3,,most brake fluid now is sold as DOT3/4
synthetic or plain -your choice

leaving old fluid in the lines and calipers is the same as not doing anything at all,,,
and hoping for the best!!! at the worst place!

google/wiki hygroscopic--the effect of oils and atmospheric moisture
not to be confused with hydroscopic- the ability to see underwater

 

where do you get such bad info anyway? not here on acurazine!!

 

yeah, what he said! lol..
sidenote, do you always post twice on the same subject within 2 min of eachother? helps to build a really high post count? hehe

 

sometimes its a seperate post for seperate thought, or additional thought, to clarify a point or ask a question

didnt you hear about the bonus pay for post count points??

 

no.... how do i get in?? lol jk.. thanks for clarifying.. i was also thinkin maybe you hit the max text allowed for one post? haha..
well back to the topic, i know last time i had my brake fluid flushed, the fluid was clean but the reservoir was still discolored. is it stained? or is there a way to clean it without removing the whole master cylinder? or is that supposed to be cleaned as well when i had a shop do it? just curious..

 

Changing MC fluid only is like taking off your oil filter, emptying it, replace with fresh oil and screw back on without draining the rest of the oil...Its useless.


OP, if you have access to a compressor, look into a vacuum bleeder. Very quick and extremely easy method of bleeding brakes.

 

many techs use a turkey baster to remove MOST -but not all of the old fluid- dont uncover the `out lines` on bottem edge of res.
the plastic res may be discolored
remove the strainer basket and look inside at the fluid itself- pretty easy to tell clean from old and dirty

 

I use speed bleeders now and replacing all of the fluid is trivial for me to do by myself quickly.

I've never used one of those vacuum things, but I don't see how it could get much easier.

 

I have heard of the following being done -

"many techs use a turkey baster to remove MOST -but not all of the old fluid- dont uncover the `out lines` on bottem edge of res.
the plastic res may be discolored"
This is usually 30 - 35 dollars.


Also, what are speed bleeders ???

 

you want to remove most of the old fluid from master cyl without allowing air into the brake lines at the bottem edge--look at master to understand

then you slowly pour in new fluid on top of old to full line- they will stay seperate
so old fluid gets pushed forward and out by new fluid as you operate the brakes.

In normal operation the system only moves back and forth with fluid- not cirulate thru the entire system,,with bleeder valve open the old gets pushed out with each pump of the pedal,
as new fluid is behind it doing the pushing
does that make sense?

the master cyl res is not clear,,more opaque, and may appear yellowed/discolored with age...
makes it hard to see the LOW and FULL marks on it

35 dollars is for a new `master cyl res cap with the slider` -it tells if system is way low on fluid, activates warning light on dash,,
When it fails get new one for 35 bucks!

Speed Bleeders- $5-10 each, 1 per caliper
replaces the regular bleeder nipple with nipple containing a 1 way check valve inside-
you open the bleeder to allow fluid out = push the brake pedal and fluid comes out- release pedal and valve shuts- keeping air out- you push pedal again and it opens -fluid/air bubbles out,,repeat until done, close bleeder!!

Lets you work alone,,, which is often a bonus~

 

oh, and make sure you dont get the brake fluid on the paint.

 

did I miss saying that in a brake thread? must be slipping~

BRAKE FLUID EATS CAR PAINT

use disposable rags under and around master cyl and across fender
Always recap the new bottle of fluid between master cyl res refills
or you are pretty much guaranteed to kick it over

noobs see my post on bleed/burping and 2x4 wood under brake pedal

 

I used a vac bleeder for the first time a few weeks ago and its sooo easy...Just connect bleeder to shop air, connect other side of bleeder to caliper, loosen bleeder screw, turn bleeder on, once clean fluid is coming through close the bleeder screw and turn bleeder off.
Its that easy. 15 minutes or less to do the entire car. 25 or less if you take your time and are sloppy with a wrench.


And do NOT over tighten caliper bleeder screws, they strip easily.

 

When mine were stuck it provided a good excuse to get Legend calipers. So I say tighten and strip away.

 

Hello,
What is the sequence for replacing brake fluid, i.e. pushing it out with brake pedal.

do you start with front or rear.

Thanks.

 

driver front, then clockwise around the car - from drivers view
Left Front, Right Front, Right REAR, Left Rear

please read the DIY and details in here if you are not familair with the job
expect approx 1.5 qts to do a really good job,,buy 2 qts DOT4 spec fluid
it may say dot 3/4 thats the stuff,,4 superceded 3
do it till its clean fluid, then several more times to flush all the contents of the caliper out, then move to next location

MAKE SURE the brake pedal is never pushed to the floor!!!!!!
a small piece of wood 1x3 2x4 scrap, placed under the arm of the brake pedal-
will limit it to the normal range of travel

push it to the floor with the bleeder open a few times and you just bought a master cylinder!

 

rich- reviewing your prior post-

did you go look at the master cyl so the `out lines' holes make sense?
dont want to introduce air in the system by removing too much from the master cyl!!

pour the new fluid in slowly so you dont create air bubbles,
and it will sit on top of the old fluid = makes it easier to get pushed thru the system