My 2001 TL had a new transmission installed at 83K miles. At 174K miles it started randomly shifting into neutral and from 4th into 2nd gear. This was the same symptoms when the first trans went. I pulled codes P0740 and P0730.

I change the trans fluid (Honda Z1) every 30K miles (1x1 method), and I changed the trans filter at 145K miles.

I was determined to give it one last go at it before declaring it dead. The first step was to pull all the shift solenoids and inspect the screens. The shift solenoids with screens all looked good, the transfluid was brown but not burnt. I even measured the coil impedance and applied 12V to the coil to verify that they clicked.

The second step was to put in 8 oz of Seafoam trans tune. This is suppose to dissolve any crud. I test drove the car for 5-10 minutes at a time, since the trans started to puke, for several days.

The third step was to pull the trans drain plug and drain the fluid out. The magnetic drain plug had only a thin film of crud on it, what I normally find doing the 30K trans fluid change. So I filtered the transfluid thru a coffee filter to see what kind of debris was in there. To my surprise there was no trace of clutch material, just brown fluid. I suspect that the trans tune had dissolved the chunks of clutch material. I didn't see any debris in the trans filter when I pulled it however I was only looking on the inside of it.

The forth step was to refill the trans fluid and flush. I did the initial fill with Valvoline Max Life ATF: http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/37 which states that is is good for Honda Z1 replacement.
Then I mixed 24 oz of Lucas Transmission Fix: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...smission%20Fix
in with the remaining gal of Valvoline Max Life.

The fifth step was to remove the hose off of the tube from the trans filter, put on a temp hose on the tube to a container and start the car. As the old trans fluid drained into the container I poured in the new fluid. I figure I used about 9 qts. total of new fluid.

After several test drives the car shifts fine with no CEL's. I suspect that the added friction modifiers in the new trans fluid have temporary fixed my slipping transmission.

I've read the threads about only using Honda ATF but this was my last effort to resuscitate the Acura and to buy some time to look for a replacement.

 

I guess we should modify the statement to -
to keep a good trans running good- stay on honda fluid for known results

for ailing trans needing band-aid = give your mix a try!

you did get a long life from the trans,,guessing yours was a pre 2005 replacement?

 

brown fluid has been in there a long time,, or there is a strange problem

 

Just found this thread through searching but try looking into the search of Redline Racing atf it keeps us 3rd gen TL's running great. And z1 fluid sucks, that's what causes problems, do a search on it you'll see. Good luck!

 

z1 has been discontinued and replaced by the all new `all older acura cars approved` DW-1

there are many of us on a mix of redline street and racing atf with good results
some loss of smoothness in shift, but faster engagement of shift
Note those trans were in good condition to start

 

Acura installed the oil jet kit (under recall) and one week later the trans took a dump and they installed the second trans in Oct. 2004. The second trans does not have the external oil jet kit.

What was changed after 2005?

 

Below are some photos taken before the trans fluid change.

Photo of the shift solenoid:
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7292/img0008ipk.jpg

Photos of pressure control solenoid valves:

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1941/img0019hd.jpg

Photo of inside of ATF filter:
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3599/img0024qi.jpg

Photo of old fluid poured out from ATF filter:
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2491/img0028oa.jpg

 

you have the `new` design case where they moved the oil jet kit internal--
its still in there taking care of 2nd gear~
(or dealer made a major mistake and didnt install the kit!!)
I would be looking into that

it was believed that `feb 2005` was the first time anyone knew that case was released,,guess we were off by a few months, or there was some overlap of new and old- you got new case,,,
maybe by 2/05 they were all issued with the new case

Rumor has it the oil passages are better inside, so it reduces the premature wear prob on the clutches due to heat

 

Update,

The temporary fix only lasted 150 miles. I am calling around for quotes for a rebuilt trans if I decide to go that route.

 

Check Willow Creek transmission in Cades, SC. I got one for $1395 with 2 yr/unlimited mile warranty.

+ $300 core and $260 for shipping. Which includes the return shipping for the core.

I am still waiting on the core refund, but should have that in a few days.

They are on eBay, but I called direct to actually speak with them before ordering.

BTC

 

Plus the install cost.

Is the new trans installed yet?
What did the install cost or did you do it yourself?

 

Install cost me $350. From a mechanic friend, he quoted 8 hours at $50/hour, but as a friend, he reduced the cost to $350.

It was installed last week and drives like a new car. Now just having to see how long it actually lasts. Original transmission had 168,000 miles and no blue bolts, so appears to be original transmission that was in it.

BTC

 

some friend! 8 hours! geez the book doesnt give you near that, most real trans shops that have done one,,well under 4 hours to remove old unit and install replacement
6 hours at dealer bendover rate,,I think warranty gives them 4

kris whats your average--at home no less~

 

8 Hours is what the books says it takes, he recently sold the business but is still running it, his new owner says they bill by the book, no exceptions...

So it was a deal, not as good as a deal as he used to give me.

BTC

 

My Acura is in the shop to rebuild the transmission. I went with a local mechanic who will rebuild the existing transmission for $1,800 to $2,200 depending on the condition of the internals. The other local mechanic wanted to install a Honda re-manufactured trans for $3,500. The local Honda dealer wanted $4,200.

I looked at the Willow Creek transmissions but decided that I did not want to take a chance (or pay the additional $ for labor coverage) on the trans developing a problem and having to pay for labor to fix it.

 

Ive got it down to 4 hours without a lift. If i had a lift im pretty sure i could knock 30-45 min off of it.

 

I did a flush with dw-1 couple months back. My fluid is starting to change colour. it was cherry red and now its light pink with tint of black on paper towel. downshifts are rought from 2-3 and 2-1.

 

when we say book time: its really funny because there are several books to choose from!

one may give 4 hours, and the other 6 or more for the same job
One may be based on the actual time it takes a well trained tech working on a brand new car/part- with no crud holding bolts in etc. Done in a big clean workshop with excellent lighting, cameras set up.. say for creating an aftermarket repair guide.

the next will be on actual time by dealer school trained tech with all the proper tools.

next one may give a generous allowance for `age related additional time required`!

Shops get to choose what book they use and often have more than one on hand~
computers have taken over much of that, enter job name and the parts and labor come up--based on whatever they chose to input~

How would the consumer know any better? they can show you the book itself!
see, right there 7.8 hours!! (if you could see the employees time card = they would not match)

Shops use book time over `actual clocked time` because it makes them lots of money!!! many techs are paid on a `flat rate` aka `billed hours` rate,
If they can do the 8 hour job in 4, and do another 8 hour job after lunch- they get paid for 16 hours labor that day!!,,think that doesnt lead to shortcuts?

my info is based on years in the biz,, in every job duty, dealer and private shops,
both honest and ~no so much~

 

The best fix from the 3rd gen side works for us too, that is to do a 3X3 using Redline Synthetic Racing type F fluid. This is the best thing I have ever done. It is like driving a new or different car. The shifts are firm but not harsh, and the fluid stays clean and red for a LONG time because clutch wear goes to near zero. If you read over there you will see that dozens if not more of guys have done the switch and none have had a problem since. One member did it 80K miles ago and he is supercharged and his auto is still fine.

 

Picked up the car yesterday and it is working fine. The replaced the torque converter, rebuilt the clutch packs and put in Honda DW-1 trans fluid. I need to bring the car back in two weeks so they can check for leaks.

Can I expect more then 90K miles on the rebuilt since this transmission is using the new Honda ATF?

 

Fsttyms, how do you get the transmission out without a lift?