I was wondering if anyone had any issues removing the rear rotor off a 2000 TL?

I've done many brake jobs, everything ranging from Toyotas to Isuzus. I haven't come across a scenario like this one.

I removed the caliper bracket, and then the two Phillips screws that hold the rotor in place. The rotor still will not come out. I took quite a few swings with my rubber mallet, and it's still on there. Not getting loose at all. There's no clip or anything holding the rotor to the wheel hub. But there is a rubber cap that allows access to loosen or tighten the e-brake shoes through the rotor.

Any insight on this?

 

Probably a stupid question but do you have the emergency brake on? When i was changing the rotors i couldn't get the rear rotor off, then i remembered that the e-brake was on.

 

Had similar issues when doing a rotor job on my 99TL. I had to spray a lot of penetrating oil and use a 2x4 and a sledge hammer to get it off.

 

nope, e-brake not engaged. i can spin the rotor easily.

 

Stuck rotors can take a few more swings with a rubber mallet. Just hit in one spot a few times then rotate 180 degrees and hit a few more times. Try working it back and forth.

 

One most Honda products there are threaded holes that you can run a bolt into and use it to push the rotor off the hub.

 

What i did was use some wd 40, sprayed the back of the rotors and all around, hit outwards so u basically hit the back of the rotors and it should pop off, after that just lightly hit it all around and it'll come off.

 

this is a job for the real hammer!!!! not the rubber mallet
If you are replacing them, what do you care- right!
Go for it- wd40- deep creep- PB- whatever stuff to help the rust break free

When you install the new ones, adjust the park brakes FIRST before you put the pads and caliper on - ou cant hear or feel whats happening otherwise.
Of course you will clean and lube the adjuster mechanism- then put the rotor on- go thru the small access port with tiny flatblade scredriver and click click- turn rotor- click click- turn rotor and it drags- click click- click cloick click- now it stops-
back OFF the adjuster 6 clicks

Make sure handbrake adjuster is loosened if 6 speed car before doing adjust
Another tip- use brake caliper grease on the metal edges where the rotor center meets the axle hub- thats where rust forms and causes the problem

 

I looked it up in the shop manual. Use 8x1.25 mm bolts in the two holes. Tighten them evenly to pull the rotor off.

 

oh man, I took some pretty heafty swings. I did exactly that, but haven't tried the 8x1.25 mm bolts that Swalch suggested.

 

That should do it, just tighten them evenly so as not to cock the rotor as it comes off.

 

check the DIY section on brakes for all the tips and pics regarding bolt size and other methods for removal
Use anti sieze on the rotor retainer screws, and get some of it on the center hub to axle connect point

If you are having them resurfaced-- use the bolt method so you dont damage the rotors
If replacing- have some fun- but be aware of the axle on the other side- you are trying to induce vibrations that break the rust bond free- not break the rotor to get it free!

Make sure the rubber plug goes in the new rotor after park brakes are adjusted or water can get inside

 

Man, this is some real stuff here, thanks Tom! I'll be printing this page out when I do my rears..finally!

 

I was just on the other thread reminding people to FLUSH the brake fluid before working on the brake pads/system
The rears are going to have crud in the fluid and you want that out!
Bad things we dont want to talk about happen when micro sized rust particles get loose and attack the rubber oring that is the life of the caliper~

 

I did brakes on my brothers 2000 TL. The same exact thing happened, the rotors seemed to be stuck. After he cussed and banged the crap out of them with a hammer they came off. Just keep hitting them with the mallet.

 

Awesome! I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace any bearings or anything. Thanks CL_Slick!!! And thanks everyone!