Redline 5W-20
Redline 5W-20
how much time has anyone used redline? I switched from mobil to amsoil to redline and I think i will stick with redline. The car just naturally feels like it wants to go to 90-100 mph range. I was on the nj turnpike..and i would lose thought about the speed...thats how fast the car would go with a slight nuge on the accelerator from 70 mph. But damn its smooth!
Redline has the lowest friction among any synthetic oil on the market today. www.bobistheoilguy.com
They use the most stable basestocks and use a ton of organic molybdenum. I don't think the price is worth it for most daily drivers, but if you drive hard and change your oil at moderate drain intervals, RL might be your best bet. Additives have become so much better that even your SM dino/synthetic blends are doing extremely well. Motorcraft is just one example.
Mobil 1 is not God, they are a mass production sythentic oil and quality wise they are not better than Redline and Amsoil and Royal Purple and Motul
my guy at the tuner shop likes Motul, and Amsoil (very $$)...for some reason they do not recommend Redline on my car for ATF even thou they carry them. he said it's too hard core for our tranny. and he recommneds Motul sythentic ATF for my car
my guy at the tuner shop likes Motul, and Amsoil (very $$)...for some reason they do not recommend Redline on my car for ATF even thou they carry them. he said it's too hard core for our tranny. and he recommneds Motul sythentic ATF for my car
Originally Posted by samkws
Mobil 1 is not God, they are a mass production sythentic oil and quality wise they are not better than Redline and Amsoil and Royal Purple and Motul
my guy at the tuner shop likes Motul, and Amsoil (very $$)...for some reason they do not recommend Redline on my car for ATF even thou they carry them. he said it's too hard core for our tranny. and he recommneds Motul sythentic ATF for my car
my guy at the tuner shop likes Motul, and Amsoil (very $$)...for some reason they do not recommend Redline on my car for ATF even thou they carry them. he said it's too hard core for our tranny. and he recommneds Motul sythentic ATF for my car
is that expensive? I'm gonna have my oil changed tomorrow night at my friends house....
Hope fully everything works out
I've spent the last 3 years over at bobistheoilguy.com and if I've learned anything, it's that Mobil 1 and Amsoil are about as close as they get to being similar. Both are about 85% PAO based. Amsoil's biggest problem is oxidative thickenning. Quality oil but not the best anymore.
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Originally Posted by chewi
nice...lucky i got the Motul Oil today ... its 5W-30.... its cost me $70 for 5 Liters( 5 bottles)....
is that expensive? I'm gonna have my oil changed tomorrow night at my friends house....
Hope fully everything works out
is that expensive? I'm gonna have my oil changed tomorrow night at my friends house....
Hope fully everything works out
Originally Posted by samkws
for some reason they do not recommend Redline on my car for ATF even thou they carry them. he said it's too hard core for our tranny.
Have no idea what that even means, Sam. ????
Originally Posted by Street Spirit
$70 CAD for enough oil for ONE oil change??? Seriously??! I hope I'm mistaken...cuz you can get enough oil to do a full change for about $28 + tax.
where normal oil is about every 3 months
Originally Posted by chewi
But I can run this Motul 8100 synthetic motor oil for about 9 months....
where normal oil is about every 3 months
where normal oil is about every 3 months
Let us know how it goes.
Originally Posted by chewi
nice...lucky i got the Motul Oil today ... its 5W-30.... its cost me $70 for 5 Liters( 5 bottles)....
is that expensive? I'm gonna have my oil changed tomorrow night at my friends house....
Hope fully everything works out
is that expensive? I'm gonna have my oil changed tomorrow night at my friends house....
Hope fully everything works out
i can do 75 for the same motul oil at my garage
Originally Posted by Street Spirit
What does he mean it is too "hardcore" for our trannies?
Have no idea what that even means, Sam. ????
Have no idea what that even means, Sam. ????
Originally Posted by Honda2.4
Redline has the lowest friction among any synthetic oil on the market today. www.bobistheoilguy.com
Hmmm..i dunno...
OK..so i paid Cash $70 CAD ..no TAX for 5 Bottles of Motul 8100 Motor Oil and a oem honda Filter.....
Yes i did my own oil change....
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....
OK..so i paid Cash $70 CAD ..no TAX for 5 Bottles of Motul 8100 Motor Oil and a oem honda Filter.....
Yes i did my own oil change....
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....
Originally Posted by chewi
Hmmm..i dunno...
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....

*Personally*, I don't care what kind of oil it is, how pretty the bottle is or how long it is 'supposed' to last, I wouldn't pay that much for an oil change. That's just cuz I know I would change the oil on a shorter interval than you are planning to anyway. So the amount spent would be way more money than I'd want to throw out on a single oil change.
Originally Posted by Street Spirit
Difference is only $5.... still wayyyy out of range for an oil change, if you ask me. Wow....
labour is around 25 dollars and that's fair if the oil and filter costs 50 CAD
which is about 40 US
but you still have to change in 6 months anyways, i don't buy the idea of leaving the oil longer
mobil 1 and redline only recommneds you change oil no more than 6 months, and i drive only 10000 miles a yr, so i will be paying a lot more which driving low mileage
Originally Posted by Street Spirit
Ahh..okay. Good luck. Personally, I wouldn't keep *any* oil running as long as nine months/certain number of kilometres....especially considering the severe weather conditions and changes we get here in Canada. ...But that's just me and my paranoia. I would change it at a much more regular interval regardless - so there's no way I'd ever spend that much $$ on a single oil change.
Let us know how it goes.
Let us know how it goes.
just my
Regular min. oils that now meet the GF-4 spec have become so good, that for moderate drain intervals up to 7k miles, are really the way to go.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
Originally Posted by Honda2.4
Regular min. oils that now meet the GF-4 spec have become so good, that for moderate drain intervals up to 7k miles, are really the way to go.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
Originally Posted by 1st timer
what about penzoil castrol...
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
you couldnt pay me to use penzoil. i used it once in my boat, and 4 gallons of fuel later i was dropping acouple grand for a new engine
well i guess i'll check my oil every month to see how dirty it gets....
i beleive i will probably change my oil every 6 months instead of 9....
my buddy told me its suppose to last as long as 9 months but off course no one really waits that long...
anyways..... when its time for another oil change, i'm gonna look around for some better deals on the motul motor oils.....
Thank you all for letting me know that there are better deals out there....
Atleast I learned soemthing =)
i beleive i will probably change my oil every 6 months instead of 9....
my buddy told me its suppose to last as long as 9 months but off course no one really waits that long...
anyways..... when its time for another oil change, i'm gonna look around for some better deals on the motul motor oils.....
Thank you all for letting me know that there are better deals out there....
Atleast I learned soemthing =)
Originally Posted by chewi
well i guess i'll check my oil every month to see how dirty it gets....
i beleive i will probably change my oil every 6 months instead of 9....
my buddy told me its suppose to last as long as 9 months but off course no one really waits that long...
anyways..... when its time for another oil change, i'm gonna look around for some better deals on the motul motor oils.....
Thank you all for letting me know that there are better deals out there....
Atleast I learned soemthing =)
i beleive i will probably change my oil every 6 months instead of 9....
my buddy told me its suppose to last as long as 9 months but off course no one really waits that long...
anyways..... when its time for another oil change, i'm gonna look around for some better deals on the motul motor oils.....
Thank you all for letting me know that there are better deals out there....
Atleast I learned soemthing =)
The dirtier an oil gets, the better a job its doing. Oil is supposed to get dirty, and keep the contaminants in suspension. The only way to tell how good a job your oil is doing is to have it analyzed. check One of the best places to have this done is Blackstone labs, check em out.
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
you have to realize color doesnt mean dirty. so there isnt any way to check for any thing other than level of it. change over to syn, then when you think its time (like you say 6 months) get a oil test kit (free) and change the oil and get a sample and send it it blackstone labs (lab work costs about 20 bucks, but for piece of mind its worth it, pluss they are able to tell you quite a bit about your engine). and you will have your results
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
you have to realize color doesnt mean dirty. so there isnt any way to check for any thing other than level of it. change over to syn, then when you think its time (like you say 6 months) get a oil test kit (free) and change the oil and get a sample and send it it blackstone labs (lab work costs about 20 bucks, but for piece of mind its worth it, pluss they are able to tell you quite a bit about your engine). and you will have your results
yeah, more info please..
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: vancouver
Originally Posted by chewi
Hmmm..i dunno...
OK..so i paid Cash $70 CAD ..no TAX for 5 Bottles of Motul 8100 Motor Oil and a oem honda Filter.....
Yes i did my own oil change....
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....
OK..so i paid Cash $70 CAD ..no TAX for 5 Bottles of Motul 8100 Motor Oil and a oem honda Filter.....
Yes i did my own oil change....
I thought i was getting a good deal.... but I guess i'm not =(.....
i am in vanoucver, BC and i have been using motul 8100 since 12000km. now i am at 60000km. i tried motul tech lite 0w30, motul 8100e 5w30 and motul 300v right now. this 300v is a waste of money and it is damn expensive. i feel no difference between the 300v and 8100 5w30. the 5w30 is good b/c it cost 10.99Cad per liter and 1 k&n filter cost 17Cad here in vancouver.
My oil change interval is 9000km. motul is saying i can go to 12000km on regular driving basis.
Originally Posted by 1st timer
where can i get this oil test kit?
Originally Posted by Honda2.4
Regular min. oils that now meet the GF-4 spec have become so good, that for moderate drain intervals up to 7k miles, are really the way to go.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
Regarding RL. They use a Polyolester basestock that will maintain it's viscosity better then Amsoil's PAO/Ester combo. What RL found in testing Amsoil, and it does show with what we see all the time over at BITOG, is that Amsoil will thicken greatly over an extended drain and when it thickens it will loose it's ability to lubricate as effectively and reduce friction.
RL is over kill for daily drivers IMO. Great racing oil though.....I also wouldn't put any stock into the four ball wear test. Has no relation to oils in gas engines. It's a grease test.....Amsoil's marketing is very "slick" IMO. A bit overkill for my tastes.
....the sleeper oils these days appear to be Motorcraft, Chevron Supreme, Havoline.
How long is Havoline good for in regular urban driving? If thats the case...the SM oils are a bargain! I saw Havoline for 1.28 a quart @ Advanced Auto. Unfortunately they stopped stocking Redline @ Advanced Auto.
Originally Posted by aaroncheung
i am in vanoucver, BC and i have been using motul 8100 since 12000km. now i am at 60000km. i tried motul tech lite 0w30, motul 8100e 5w30 and motul 300v right now. this 300v is a waste of money and it is damn expensive. i feel no difference between the 300v and 8100 5w30. the 5w30 is good b/c it cost 10.99Cad per liter and 1 k&n filter cost 17Cad here in vancouver.
My oil change interval is 9000km. motul is saying i can go to 12000km on regular driving basis.
My oil change interval is 9000km. motul is saying i can go to 12000km on regular driving basis.





