jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I have a rear caliper that is not functioning properly... I need to replace it and I'm going to do both.

I am having a tough time trying to figure out the differences between these search results.

AcuraAutomotiveParts.org
OEMAcuraParts.com
AcuraOEMParts.com

Thanks for your advice!

01tl4tl

I got mine thru kragen.com a few years back, about 100 per side with core exchange required..(you return old unit to store)
iirc all were raybestos brand and I went with 95 legend LS-C dual piston calipers in front
for 75 each--

have you inspected the caliper to see if you can rebuild it?- 20 bucks for a seal kit, assuming not corroded in cylinder wall
Whats your diagnosis from?

Everyone needs to flush the brake fluid once a year to prevent problems

a lot of people have bought rear pads aftermarket- then have a wierd car shake issue.
Ck your rear rotor on inner side-(get under car and look)
if its half shiny and half rusty across its width,,you have the extra/3rd tab issue and need to fix the pads.. not the caliper (had it)

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about the inside of the rotor, but there is not full contact on the outside of the rotor. I am also getting a rotational noise when I step on the brakes. Rotors are not warped and there is plenty of pad left as well.
This is why I was going to replace the caliper assembly.
I havent flushed my brake fluid in a while, not sure if that is the problem at this point.

01tl4tl

do the flush
then remove the suspect caliper from bracket, but leave hooked up to the line
Pull the rubber boot back to ck for fluid getting past the piston oring
If brake fluid present--you have a bad caliper, can pop out the piston and look for damage beyond an oring kit
service for a caliper is simple

assuming fluid was not present past the seal (the rubber cover is just a dust cover)

Now- Place a block of 2x4 wood or similar in the caliper where pads/rotors go
That will prevent the piston from popping out during next test

Have friend push brake pedal and release- watch the piston action of caliper
extend and release, extend and release,,there's not much to the release as the presure goes away the rotor motion actually kicks the pads out about 1mm from rotor

how do you know the rotors are flat?

if you want oe part ``after finding piston gets stuck somewhere in travel`` and rusted corroded pitted cylinder bore,
ck out ziner oeacurapartstim,,good guy that hooks up ziners- the vendor list has all the approved vendors

fsttyms1

What are you having a hard time with? One is a Re-manufactured and one is new (if thats the problem)

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

Wow... You don't know how long I was trying to figure out the part numbers.
Thanks!
Gonna try what 01tl4tl suggested and decide if I need to go that route.

I'll have time to look at it Saturday, might be back on if I run into questions/problems.

01tl4tl

you can email or call any of the vendors for help

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

So the caliper is definitely seized up... I took it to my father in law's and we took it apart to grease the sliders... we couldnt get it apart... rust/welded in place.

Gonna look for an affordable set of rear calipers now.

01tl4tl

raybestos work fine and are a decent price
or ck with our online dealers for acura stuff

always replace calipers in pairs

With a rear going bad like that- inspect the fronts
Many times the brake fluid was not changed and causes massive rust prob in calipers
wikipedia hygroscopic for why

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

What's the "EB" in "EBP" stand for?

Here's a link to the standard OEM parts.
Seeing that single piston sure makes me want double piston calipers.

01tl4tl

you dont need more rear braking--the front is where to install 1995 legend LS_C calipers
they have the pistons closest in size and have been used by many here

more rear brakes just encourages rear lockup--no weight on the rear wheels and it comes around--as in spins out--the back end passes the front...not cool

will you please call a vendor and get the part you need
try PM to oeacurapartstim--he is online everyday here to help you--knows his stuff

the rears run about 100 each at parts stores- the mechanism for the park brake adds to the cost
fronts are only 75 each (price may be higher now)

I would flush the brake fluid system before the new parts go in--plenty of crud in the lines you dont need to subject the new stuff to as you bleed the system

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I called around, Auto Zone has rears for $55.00 each. That's where I'm going!

Once I get them in a couple days, I will flush the fluid, then replace both rear calipers.

I'll have to check the fronts too, anything I should look for in regards to signs of trouble?

Thanks!

01tl4tl

are those the right calipers for the rear??? double ck online vs counter person on phone who can make a mistake

fronts: look inside the rubber dust boot for leakage of brake fluid or rusty crud on parts

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

I will double check after work, I was surprised by the price as well.

Thanks for the image.
The EBP is Eternal Blue Pearl; the color of my car.

01tl4tl

they may be giving you the price of the cheapest brand and bare

Make sure you are getting everything with it new- called `Loaded`- has new bolts, bracket, slider boots and pads.. plus caliper itself all ready to install

Add small amount of caliper grease where needed

unless you have new pads on hand--then ok to buy it `naked`--

thats the parts term,,, not a suggestion for how to dress when going to the store~

01tl4tl

you want to buy it that way because one side has been working overtime to stop the car and has worn unevenly

your rotors may be worn funny too
ck the runout-warp of them and thickness in 3 places
they are pretty cheap to replace with the calipers- then all fresh and good- no issues

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

Got my calipers in yesterday at Autozone. Going to put them on this weekend depending on free time.
Gonna hit Summerfest down by Milwaukee's lakefront one of the days!

01tl4tl

get a squirt can for oil- 3 bucks, put new brake fluid in it, use to prefill the caliper thru the opening for the hose--get full as much as possible
It will give up little bubbles of air as it fills
That way you have lubricating fluid on the oring in the caliper when you start to bleed the system

I would bleed the new calipers first to get full fluid into them-
then do the correct order LF RF RR LR

and you already know to flush new brake fluid thru the rear calipers with the old ones still on there
Get new fluid at the line for the new calipers
not crudded up old fluid waiting to destroy your purchase

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

Well, I learned my lesson. Always check the box prior to installation.

I purchased the correct caliper from Auto Zone; however, it did not come with the Caliper Bracket. This is the part that was not properly working on my caliper.
So I went and ordered the parts I didn't have and will not get them until after the weekend.
It wasn't even that expensive, it's another $25 total for both sides.

I'm just kicking myself for not noticing this prior.

01tl4tl

you mean where I said to get a LOADED caliper? not naked~
that 55 per was too good to be true!!

totaledTL

What could be wrong with the brackets?

01tl4tl

Im guessing he means the park brake actuator or something is screwed up on his current one

jstahnke10

iTrader: (1)

My understanding was a loaded caliper included the pads. I already have pads...


One of the sliders on the bracket doesn't slide anymore.
I don't have any pictures because my blackberry camera isn't working.

01tl4tl

loaded means fully equipped-ready to install, throw the pads away if you want to- but getting the brackets and bolts etc--
sometimes they call that Semi Loaded,,no pads but everything else
sorry I wasnt thinking~

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Bump for this thread.

My rear driver side was making screeching noise. Took a look, and the pads were worn almost entirely, the other side is still at half life. Automatically points to seized caliper.

But when I took it apart, it took a bit of wiggle to get the caliper off, but I had no problems getting the piston pushed back in. I even did it a couple of times; engaged movement is smooth and no issues pushing it back in. Also flushed the fluid, just until I have time to get the entire system flushed.

I read above that the piston seals can be rebuilt with a kit if there is no corrosion in the cylinder walls, which I think may be the case here. How hard is this? And can it be done to my, I guess, partially seized caliper? Has anyone ever done this?

My others options are obviously a RM caliper or new one. I have pads and the sliders are still smooth.

Advice on which path I should take?

01tl4tl

handy- long time!!

are the rear pads aftermarket?

many brands use the wrong backing plate for the inner rear pad
the correct one has 2 raised tabs- 1 on each end-1 holds the noise maker tab the other is empty

the wrong one has an extra, 3rd- raised tab in the center-outer edge
That extra tab hits the the caliper piston first and cocks the pad - pressing and wearing it at an angle

Does the rotor show half clean/used and half rusty on the width of the inner side?

NOTE for all:
thats the quick visual ck for everyone with replaced rear pads- if the INNER pad isnt getting full contact across the rotor and keeping the rotor clean- thats a suspect in why

Pad Wear:
there is some differance in pressure applied to the pads: the inner gets pushed against the rotor by the piston and the outward piston motion draws the caliper bracket forces inwards, pulling the outer pads against the rotor- by 2 caliper fingers on the outer pad
One is activly pushing while the other is pulled without its own effort

If the sliders and tabs are not clean and greased, it can hang up slightly
car washes are bad for caliper grease!! removes it fast ..from needed areas

If you decide to rebuild caliper its simple- air tank helpful in removing piston
Place a 2x4 in the caliper where pads and rotor would be- send air pulse thru brake line opening in caliper
CAUTION: the piston will pop out with even slight air pressure- shoot out like a large caliper gun would be an accurate description
Luckily the bracket is still attached (for safety) and the piston stops- otherwise when found across the garage,,it may survive the impact with limited damage--may need new piston
Or pull and slighty twist the piston out
its got a rubber oring on the outer side as you remove it--after that will be brake fluid
couple of soft ways to remove and surface stuff and put back together
Prefill caliper with dot4 brake fluid- as able- with small oil can--helps if you remove as much air before bleeding as you can

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Pads are OEM and pad wear was uniform.

Seems straightforward enough with the rebuild, but no air tools. Even with, I don't want to risk a bad seal on the piston by doing it myself.

I guess I'll go reman'ed. Is it true that you should both calipers?

01tl4tl

yes always do both as they should get even use

You can rebuild it fine at home--no worries
I happen to have a small air tank for tires, but it was in no way required to do the job!
Simply pull on the piston with a rag on hand and pull

It will slide out, may need a little ooomph just as the oring comes thru,, but other than that its a simple piston with oring as its seal ring
easier than any engine piston!!

some steel wool or 1800 grit wet-dry sandpaper will fix it up IF its fixable
Pitting into the cylinder wall would be main reason for total replacement
If it will clean up and be smooth flush surface- the NEW oring will be fine--
iirc kits with all new parts for the caliper, dust boot for piston, slider boots,pins, (without piston) are about 20 bucks at honda dealer

If not able to get clean surface, then its time to get rebuilt units from kragen or similar store- I went with raybestos to match the Legend front calipers

caliper rebuild/overhaul a simple job that really should be done with a brake job at the cars midlife point ~75-100kmiles in my opinion
I think mrheeltoe added kits to his website as a suggested item with brake upgrades

to help your decision: the rear calipers rebuilt are ~100 bucks!! each!!!!

Note: I seem to have misunderstood your problem--
ck me on this: one SIDE of the car has worn out pads, and the other is still good and both sides of car have even wear inner and outer pads

In that case If you looked at the worn out pad side caliper- you went to the wrong side.
worn out mean working hard
little wear means not getting pressed into action--may be an internal leak on that caliper--if all is well in the sliders

Try bleeding that caliper to see if air gets out or fluid has good motion out
remember do the whole brake fluid system
LF driver front then clockwise around the car- LF RF RR LR--due to abs plumbing

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the tips. I looked for o-ring kits. acuraautomotive doesn't have P/N for it. I'll try HT website.

And no misunderstanding there. ALL pads (inner and outer, front and rear) have uniform wear. Driver side rear pads are worn to the minimum.

I don't think it's an internal leak. There is no drop in brake fluid level since I bled the system last year. And the other 3 locations have wear that's appropriate for the age/mileage/driving style. I'm pretty sure it's an almost-seized caliper.

01tl4tl

look at opposite side car from the worn out pads--they would be working harder because other side is lagging

01tl4tl

I wore my fronts down- driver side 2mm remain--pass side 1!!!mm--you could see thru the pad material to the backing plate
Guess 2mm really is a minimum~

must be torque loading that caused slightly more wear on one side
If you are talking several MM its a prob--1-2mm not a prob

honda makes the kits- that same caliper is on the rear of most of their fleet

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Yep, I haven't searched enough for the kit. My default is acuraautomotive. I'll report back. For the time being, I had an old set of rear pad laying around (what are the odds...lol). I can hear them dragging slightly. I'll report back on the caliper situation.

And the difference in pad wear is definitely a problem. It's roughly 5-6mm on passenger side....<1mm on seized side.

01tl4tl

again--
if it was siezed in the ON position,, there would have been smoke from the wheel!!- ask fsttyms about when his rr caliper was stuck partialy on for a few hundred miles going home one day...

A stuck caliper wears out one pad on its own brake

look at the opposite side caliper for NON functioning
causing one side to work for both
understand?

01tl4tl

look in the vendor directory and CALL a few of the dealers for help
They may not list every single part on their website- just the stuff that sells