Rear brake rotor wont come off....any ideas?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rear brake rotor wont come off....any ideas?
Changing all 4 rotors on our 03 TL. Fronts are done, got to the first rear and the rotor wont come off. The parking brake is off and the wheel spins freely, so Im pretty sure thats not holding it on.
The screws that hold the rotor on are removed so thats not it. Only guess I have left is its frozen from oxidation/rust. Unless Im missing something?
Any tips on how to get it off? Ive whacked it plenty of times with a rubber mallet but its not budging.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
The screws that hold the rotor on are removed so thats not it. Only guess I have left is its frozen from oxidation/rust. Unless Im missing something?
Any tips on how to get it off? Ive whacked it plenty of times with a rubber mallet but its not budging.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
#2
Senior Moderator
Get some penetrating oil and spray it around the hub area, get a BFH and bang the hell out of it.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, I figured it out, and it had nothing to do with rust/oxidation.
The rear brake rotors need to be "pulled" by putting bolts in the 2 threaded holes in the rotor and then tightening the bolts. Not sure why other peoples rotors come off OK without doing it, but mine sure didnt.
I actually saw a DIY for an 04TL using the same method and realized it applied to my 03 as well (there are 2 countersunk holes for the rotor retaining bolts, and 2 normal threaded holes, use the threaded holes to pull the rotor off)
Once that was done it was easy!
-Chris
The rear brake rotors need to be "pulled" by putting bolts in the 2 threaded holes in the rotor and then tightening the bolts. Not sure why other peoples rotors come off OK without doing it, but mine sure didnt.
I actually saw a DIY for an 04TL using the same method and realized it applied to my 03 as well (there are 2 countersunk holes for the rotor retaining bolts, and 2 normal threaded holes, use the threaded holes to pull the rotor off)
Once that was done it was easy!
-Chris
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Yeah after my reply I kinda thought maybe rust was somewhere involved, but I didnt edit it.
The fronts were "rusted" on....as you hammered it with a rubber mallet you could sense (in the pitch of the noise) that it was loosening up. The rears, no such luck.
Either way its done! Car stops much nicer now (got in on the Brakemotive/Powerstop group by). Its the wifes car, so hopefully she can get used to the better braking without hurting her neck
The fronts were "rusted" on....as you hammered it with a rubber mallet you could sense (in the pitch of the noise) that it was loosening up. The rears, no such luck.
Either way its done! Car stops much nicer now (got in on the Brakemotive/Powerstop group by). Its the wifes car, so hopefully she can get used to the better braking without hurting her neck
#7
Senior Moderator
They dont need to be pulled like that for any reason other than rust. The method you did works, i prefer a small sledge hammer. for me it always works faster and easier. Plus i get to get rid of some frustration
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#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Baby sledge was my next option but I wanted to be absolutely sure nothing else would work....didnt want to destroy the rotor and still not be able to get it off..then the car would be in my way for a while!
#10
flush the brake fluid- it will be nasty if the rust on wheel parts was bad- lots of moisture where this car has lived~
thats something you should do once a year anyway- flush brake fluid, inspect pads and relube sliders
thats something you should do once a year anyway- flush brake fluid, inspect pads and relube sliders
#11
ck park brake adjustment too- most cars need a few clicks to tighten the p- brakes inside the rear rotor
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09-04-2015 05:55 PM