Radiator Fan Replacement
Radiator Fan Replacement
I'm new to DIY engine repair, so forgive any lack of knowledge on my part 
My 2000 Accura TL began to overheat the other day, coolent resovuar exploded, while the engine was on it didn't seem like the fans were engaging, so I took it to the Acura dealer for repair.
They replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolent and replaced the radiator cap, said it was good to go. Took it home and it did fine on the highway, drove it up a large hill and the engine temprature spiked checked the engine again and it didn't look like the fans were engaging still. We took it back to the dealership and asked about it, and they said the fans were engaging when they checked it, they seem to have a short, if you tap on them they engage. Seemed kinda off to me so instead of paying $600 to get them repaired or paying ~$500 for OEM fans, i'm looking to get some after market fans and do the work myself.
My question is if anyone has any suggestions as to what might be the best aftermarket fans to look into, I know quality can vary greatly with aftermarket parts, but i'd like to get an idea of what some good options might be, or if you think just letting the dealer do the repair
I appreciate any help you can give me
-Graff-

My 2000 Accura TL began to overheat the other day, coolent resovuar exploded, while the engine was on it didn't seem like the fans were engaging, so I took it to the Acura dealer for repair.
They replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolent and replaced the radiator cap, said it was good to go. Took it home and it did fine on the highway, drove it up a large hill and the engine temprature spiked checked the engine again and it didn't look like the fans were engaging still. We took it back to the dealership and asked about it, and they said the fans were engaging when they checked it, they seem to have a short, if you tap on them they engage. Seemed kinda off to me so instead of paying $600 to get them repaired or paying ~$500 for OEM fans, i'm looking to get some after market fans and do the work myself.
My question is if anyone has any suggestions as to what might be the best aftermarket fans to look into, I know quality can vary greatly with aftermarket parts, but i'd like to get an idea of what some good options might be, or if you think just letting the dealer do the repair
I appreciate any help you can give me
-Graff-
Welcome Graffight !!!
OEM quality parts are available through online Acura parts sources at discounted prices. Ya can also get comparable quality aftermarket parts from your local auto parts store or online from places like Rockauto for good prices. Don't pay the stealership hundreds of dollars for an easy job such as replacing a cooling fan. The fan will run about $100 (+/-). Consider replacing the ECT sensor as well and make sure that the cooling system is burped of any trapped air pockets.
OEM quality parts are available through online Acura parts sources at discounted prices. Ya can also get comparable quality aftermarket parts from your local auto parts store or online from places like Rockauto for good prices. Don't pay the stealership hundreds of dollars for an easy job such as replacing a cooling fan. The fan will run about $100 (+/-). Consider replacing the ECT sensor as well and make sure that the cooling system is burped of any trapped air pockets.
sounds like the main cooling fan- the driver side fan is not getting correct signal
Its the primary cooling fan
its sensor located on RR lower corner of rad, screw in part, aftermarket is ok
when that doesn't work the temp spikes, it should never move above half- ever
the pass side fan runs with AC on and as a backup cooling fan
Just after shut off of engine does either fan run, for longer than a minute- like 5-15 minutes?
see other recent threads on heat, problem was the main cooling fan itself, easy DIY 2 bolts and a wire connector plug
DID you see them tap on fans and they start out of nowhere? or you did it yourself or they just said must be a short?
there are only a few things to fail, power relay, fuse, sensor and motor itself
Its the primary cooling fan
its sensor located on RR lower corner of rad, screw in part, aftermarket is ok
when that doesn't work the temp spikes, it should never move above half- ever
the pass side fan runs with AC on and as a backup cooling fan
Just after shut off of engine does either fan run, for longer than a minute- like 5-15 minutes?
see other recent threads on heat, problem was the main cooling fan itself, easy DIY 2 bolts and a wire connector plug
DID you see them tap on fans and they start out of nowhere? or you did it yourself or they just said must be a short?
there are only a few things to fail, power relay, fuse, sensor and motor itself
on that acura site is the owner book for your year as a free download
see it for exact burping instructions for cooling system
its critical the heater be on full hot and cabin fan running- doors open to let heat escape
trapped air will make major problems inside!
see it for exact burping instructions for cooling system
its critical the heater be on full hot and cabin fan running- doors open to let heat escape
trapped air will make major problems inside!
I posted not long ago about my primary cooling fan not working, and the fan motor ended up being the culprit. However, my car never once overheated during the time between when I realized it wasn't working, and when I replaced the motor. But of course, if both fans are bad, you'll definitely overheat. My A/C condenser fan (passenger's side) was doing as 01tl4tl said -- acting as a backup because the primary fan was not functioning.
And yes, it's easy to replace the fans. As also mentioned above, 2 bolts (on top) and a plug. It's not too terribly difficult to get the fan out -- just have to move some hoses around a bit and carefully walk the fan out.
And yes, it's easy to replace the fans. As also mentioned above, 2 bolts (on top) and a plug. It's not too terribly difficult to get the fan out -- just have to move some hoses around a bit and carefully walk the fan out.
Binary-- where did you get the fan? OE, local parts store- price?
the temp gauge can be tricked by an air pocket in the system!!
Good you found the problem quickly and resolved it
if any more problems with primary-drivers side fan- suspect the fan temp sensor A
those are a common failure and usual cause of no fan or fan works at wrong times
With our cars aging there will be more of the fan itself as the cause
the temp gauge can be tricked by an air pocket in the system!!
Good you found the problem quickly and resolved it
if any more problems with primary-drivers side fan- suspect the fan temp sensor A
those are a common failure and usual cause of no fan or fan works at wrong times
With our cars aging there will be more of the fan itself as the cause
Binary-- where did you get the fan? OE, local parts store- price?
the temp gauge can be tricked by an air pocket in the system!!
Good you found the problem quickly and resolved it
if any more problems with primary-drivers side fan- suspect the fan temp sensor A
those are a common failure and usual cause of no fan or fan works at wrong times
With our cars aging there will be more of the fan itself as the cause
the temp gauge can be tricked by an air pocket in the system!!
Good you found the problem quickly and resolved it
if any more problems with primary-drivers side fan- suspect the fan temp sensor A
those are a common failure and usual cause of no fan or fan works at wrong times
With our cars aging there will be more of the fan itself as the cause
Also, since I replaced the fan motor and the fan works, the fan kicks on occasionally after I turn the car off. However, it never lasts long. I've read on several occasions that it's normal to run for a few after shutting the car off, so the engine can cool completely. For example, if it's hot outside and I don't drive it too long (temp goes up to about 1/4, for example), the fan runs for a few minutes. If I start the car again, the temp gauge is back at the bottom. Normal, right?
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^^^ The fan appears to be running normally.
The ECT sensor is doing it's job, by the way which you described the fan's operation.
Make sure that the coolant ratio is 50% and properly purged of any trapped air pockets.
The ECT sensor is doing it's job, by the way which you described the fan's operation.
Make sure that the coolant ratio is 50% and properly purged of any trapped air pockets.
its normal to run for 1-2 minutes after shutdown- 5 minutes or more is a bad fan sensor A.
Its not trying to cool it all the way down, when water pump stops turning the water sits and temp rises slightly, Fan brings it back to just below fan trigger temp
Your temp should come up to just below half in a few minutes driving
Once there it should stay dead steady the entire drive, mountains 100 degrees, AC blasting, whatever- it stays in one place all the time 1-2 lines below half- whatever your visual angle makes it appear to read
Any movement up or down means a problem !
Its not trying to cool it all the way down, when water pump stops turning the water sits and temp rises slightly, Fan brings it back to just below fan trigger temp
Your temp should come up to just below half in a few minutes driving
Once there it should stay dead steady the entire drive, mountains 100 degrees, AC blasting, whatever- it stays in one place all the time 1-2 lines below half- whatever your visual angle makes it appear to read
Any movement up or down means a problem !
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